One excellent way to spend less than you earn is to track every penny you spend. But how detailed should you be? Jamie’s been struggling with this question. He writes:
I have begun to track all my spending. I want to break things into budget categories, but I’ve run into a couple hurdles. Can you offer some insight on how to deal with them?
- The proliferation of big box retailers (such as Target and Wal-Mart) where you can buy everything from clothes to groceries to household cleaners to furniture, all in the same trip, makes it nigh impossible to track things by budget category. I know some personal finance software allows you to split categories, but that leads to…
- In my state, we pay 8.25% sales tax. Some things are not taxable. If I try to split a transaction, I have no idea what to do with the tax. I could figure it myself for each category, but if I have to do that, I will honestly just give up on the whole thing. I also have this problem since my internet and cable come on the same bill. Technically, it’s all the internet bill since I wouldn’t have cable if I didn’t have to for the internet, but if I did want to separate my transaction into cable and internet, I have no clue how to deal with all those taxes and fees and such that are on cable bills.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
Jamie is to be congratulated for tracking the money he spends. He’s also done well to recognize a barrier and to seek ways to deal with it. Whenever you notice a barrier to your personal finances, you must remove it. If you leave the barrier in place, no matter how inconsequential it is, it will prevent you from meeting your goals.
In the case of his internet/cable bill, Jamie might opt not to track the fees and taxes precisely. If his cable bill is $50, for example, and his internet bill is $25, he could simply allocate two-thirds of the fees to cable and the rest to the internet. This is close enough. It will give him a rough idea of where the money’s going. I’m not even that precise with my internet/phone bill. I designate $40 for DSL; anything left on the bill is tracked as in the phone category. This works for me.
It’s more important to track your spending in a broad sense than it is to make sure you’ve tracked every penny precisely. I used to divide my trips to Safeway into various categories within Quicken:
- Food: Groceries
- Food: Junk
- Periodicals: Newsstand
- Sin: Alcohol
- Household: Supplies
I still do break my receipt into these categories when I have time. But often I simply lump the entire trip as groceries — that’s what 95% of it is, anyhow. Worrying about niggly little things can be counter-productive to good personal finance. Often it’s more to make the right general choice, and to worry about optimizing things later.
Remember the Get Rich Slowly mantra: Do what works for you. If fussing with categories will prevent you from tracking your finances, then don’t fuss with categories. Use broad categories like Food, Utilities, and Car, if you have to, but track those expenses!
This article is about Ask the Readers, Budgeting





My Super Target has a tax code next to each item and then the different taxes are shown at the bottom. It makes it easier when seperating the money spent on food from the other stuff we get there.
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I kind of had this problem earlier in the year. Basically, I found myself establishing a plethora of categories, and it was just getting out of control. (I tend to obsess about things.) Eventually, I realized I was engaging in what some GTD people call “productivity porn,” and pared it down to about a dozen categories I use for everything.
For sales tax, I’m currently doing the obsessive thing (natch), and splitting the tax on the receipt. Most items are marked with a “T” if they’re taxable, so it’s not too hard. Sometimes, though, the rounding of pennies doesn’t quite work out…
For next year, I’m thinking that I could just track “sales tax” as a separate category. I’m kind of curious how much it eats up, anyway.
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The way I split a receipt is to round things up. You get a general idea of how much tax is applied to 10, 20, 30 dollars, and so if I am splitting out a 15 dollar item, i might add 1.35 or 1.25 depending. And sometimes, I will stick the tax in a category that I feel I need to watch my spending on, and if this makes it go over, so much the better (i.e. Food:Junk). Also, by pulling the couple of items out that don’t fit first(2 junk food, 20 grocery, so enter junk food first) quicken will tell me what amount is left, and I can go with that for the 20 items, less hassle in adding. The one or two times a month it is evenly split is then not so much hassle. Enter everything as soon as you can, this helps to create the habit, and make splitting things easier too.
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My mantra is “only track expenses that you can do something about.” I don’t keep track of sales tax because there’s nothing I can do to reduce it (except by buying less, bartering more, or moving somewhere where the sales tax is lower). My main reason for tracking line item expenses is to identify areas where I’m spending more than I should. The categories I keep are very broad, and I only start splitting them out when I notice that I’m sinking significant sums into them. For example my “Household” category includes such diverse items as kitchen appliances, furniture, potting soil, and my cable bill. I don’t keep track of the cable bill separately because it’s a fixed expense and there’s nothing I can do to reduce it other than to cancel the service (I have the most basic no-frills cable subscription, so it’s not like I can choose a cheaper option). On the other hand, I do keep track of my Internet expenses because I work at home and my monthly ISP bill is reimbursed by my employer.
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Totally agree with the GRS mantra of “Do What Works For You”. I’m an Excel Spreadsheet Track Every Single Penny sort of guy, because I have to be, and because I want to be.
I want to be a good steward for my abundance, prove to myself and the Universe that I’m mature enough to handle even more of the good stuff flowing into my life.
I figure if I can handle $X per year now, I will be able to handle 2 or 3 or even 4 times $X when that comes to pass.
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Track sales tax separately. Some places, you can deduct it on your income taxes, I believe, which would be reason enough to look into it. But either way, because it’s a fixed percentage, it’s not really material to your spending plans. Control the taxable expenses and it’ll automatically decrease sales tax.
I’ve always included things like junk food and alcohol with groceries; I don’t usually buy non-grocery items at the grocery store. If you really are trying to cut back on those items, separate tracking might be appropriate, but most of us know better ways to cut back on junk food and as I only rarely drink, I don’t see the point of considering it differently than soda or juice. Obviously, if you buy groceries and clothing in the same trip, you’ll probably have to do some splitting.
Really, unless you have a particular reason for wanting to control a specific area, broad categories work just fine. Put your charges to the grocery store under groceries, your charges at the gas station under fuel (unless you’re really fond of buying other things there on a regular basis), and so on. If you determine you’re spending too much at the grocery store, you can always start breaking it down further later.
I’d basically treat it the same as a small business. Expense categories but no need to track exactly how much we’re spending on pens until we’re on the second box in a week and nobody seems to actually be using them… and even then that’s more of a use issue than expense.
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I use a really basic tracking method. I record my daily expenses in the notepad feature of my yahoo account. Then once I week I plug those numbers into an Excel spreadsheet with 4 categories, Food, Bills, Other and School. (My husband and I are both in school). I hope one day to broaden my categories, but in the spirit of GRS I am doing what works for me now. Even this simple tracking has helped me budget and anticipate expenses for the coming months
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I agree with Brad. Keep your categories broad. You can always dig for details if you need them. A nice trick I’ve found is to name the categories “01 Rent,” “02 Food,” etc. I also never use subcategories. It really speeds up data entry. It also allows you to customize reports that would otherwise be printed in alphabetical order.
For me, all Target, etc. receipts go directly into a miscellaneous category. I’m trying to get better about splitting things out, but it is a pain. For a while I used a percentage method. I looked at a bunch of receipts and determined the common categories and percentages and applied them to most receipts. Now I only track specific categories, like clothing, and split those out from the receipt. I buy papergoods when I buy groceries or in a separate trip. Also, you’ll save money if you limit the focus of your big box shopping trips. That singing Snowman may be cute but you’re there for TP, you can always stop back another time.
If I care enough to split the item out, then I care enough to include at least a rough estimation of the taxes charged. They are part of the cost of the item. I like the rounding idea.
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You can make it all easy by having proper categories.
It sounds like one good category for you would be stuff you normally get from a grocery store: food and household supplies. Just call it “groceries.” If you sometimes have a shopping trip where you get these same kinds of things but you are at a drug store or discount store, you can still add them to the “grocery” category.
It sounds like another good category for you would be “communications.” This could include phone, internet, cable, cell phone, stuff like that. Or maybe “media” for internet, cable, movies, and office supplies. Or, since you wouldn’t get cable if it didn’t come automatically with the internet service, put the whole thing under internet service.
The important thing is to have categories you can work with that mean something to you. If one category looks surprisingly huge, you can try to figure out why and whittle it down. Or if one is growing or shrinking, you can notice that. Or if one changes wildly from month-to-month, you can notice that. Anything that will help you understand and take charge of your finances is a good idea.
Don’t feel you have to use the usual categories. I am like JD where I split the usual food category into groceries and junk food (eating out counts as junk food if it’s alone but as entertainment if it’s with friends).
But then I lump together the usual categories of entertainment, office supplies, clothing, gifts, and probably other ordinary categories I’m forgetting, all into one big category I call “fun.” That’s where my internet/cable would go if I were the one in my house paying for that.
I recommend starting out simple, and then breaking out more categories later if you find it would be helpful. You can even start as simple as two categories: “constant” and “variable.” Then your groceries and cleaner and furniture could all go in the variable category (even if you invariably buy bread each week) and your internet/cable could go in the constant category. Or start with three: constant, expendable, and asset. With this system, your groceries and cleaner would go in the expendable category, but you’d have to break out the furniture into the asset category.
Just whatever makes sense. And do expect that to change over time. I recently separated home renovation from home repair. And I finally decided I wanted to keep track of medical costs separately, so I pulled them out of “fun.”
Good luck!
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Microsoft money has a feature where you can enter in the splits without the tax (so just type in the items from the receipt) and then it will split the leftover money (the tax) correctly between the items you’ve put in.
I’ve found this to be the best way to deal with the tax issue. Don’t know if Quicken has a similar feature…
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As Brad, Debbie, and Susan (and others) said above, I think the best method is to keep it simple. If you go into the convenience store at the gas station and you buy a coffee three times a week, just put that under “fuel” (or whatever you call it), and allocate more money to that category.
That being said, we do occasionally split receipts (pulling diapers from “groceries” and sticking them in “miscellaneous”). I’ll usually do a quick approximation of the tax cost and add it (and subtract it) from the relevant place(s).
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To Jamie:
I’m not trying to be facetious here…
If you are regularly buying “everything from clothes to groceries to household cleaners to furniture, all in the same trip”, I think it may point to part of the problem. If you have your spending under control, I would estimate you would run into this problem only three or four times a year. That wouldn’t be a lot of time for me to split the bill on those occasions.
So here’s my tip. If you are finding yourself regularly buying so many things from the big box stores: Decide the purpose of the trip to the big box store before you go. Is it for groceries? Or are you buying electronics/furniture? Then stick to the plan of what you are buying. If you see something interesting while you’re there, take a note of it and bring only the note home with you to reconsider or shop around before you head back to make the purchase another time.
Thoughts?
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I signed up for wesabe.com this past weekend and like it. Check it out – makes it easy to categorize your expenses.
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We just write our expenses down on a calendar on the wall. Every day when we buy something we’d make a note “$100 – Grocery, $50 – fuel” or whatever it is and then total it up at the end of the week. We know from our budget what the weekly total should average out to, so we can get a good idea of how we are going by looking at the last few weekly totals. I’ve tried getting more detailed by having separate totals for different categories and found that it was more work than it was worth.
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I am a big fan of this website. There are times when I read about “dilemmas” like the splitting of tax, that make me wonder if some aspects of frugality border on compulsive behavior. The big goal is to know where your money is going, not to track every penny. Round off, estimate. I use Excel after abandoning Quicken and MS Money. Over the years I have added spreadsheets to track stocks (i.e. estimate long term vs. short term taxes on gains, FIFO), my accounts (banking, money market, etc.), estimate retirement goals, track paychecks (with a running Fed and State tax estimator), and it goes on and on. The back sheets are linked to the front sheet, which is a general, at-a-glance view of my little world of money. When I visit AAII.com ($29/yr) to download my stock screeners, in Excel, I simply add them to the workbook and delete old ones. I keep the file on a thumb drive (not my harddrive) and don’t worry too much about hackers, because I don’t include account numbers in the file (that’s printed and in a fireproof safe) and when I use it, I turn off my cable modem.
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Squished8, I think you’ve injected a very reasonable thought into the discussion. So many of us head to Costco to load up on great buys of toilet paper and chicken breasts, and walk out with a new television stand and a doohickey for the videocam. That may be part of Jamie’s problem.
Out here in Portland, Oregon we have a local chain called Fred Meyer’s that has reasonably-priced groceries (ie, stuff you would find in a traditional grocery store like produce, dairy, bread, cereal, flour, dog food). They also have substantive garden, automobile, clothing, office and household furnishings departments. I track Clothing, Home (which includes the garden), and Transit (which includes car costs). When I’m purchasing a substantial amount from one of these departments, I separate them out on the register moving belt thingee, and ask the cashier to give me a subtotal of each group. Voyla!
Hey, I used to track the spare change I spent in vending machines. I think I’ve come a long way!
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Spending Problem…
Whatever happened to budgeting? In order to meet certain financial objectives in life, one must budget. I recently instituted a new budget to better govern my own financial regime. It was not the result of a new year’s resolution but my parents req…
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Basically, there are 3 major categories: Regular which include you monthly bills, irregular which include yearly pyaments like say insurance or any such kind of fees; and Variable which varies from month to moth. Got this idea from PearBudget. I further categorize them into these categories: Rent/mortgage, utilities which are a fixed amount. I also have categories for saving, groceries, travel, medical, educational (for my kids school expenditures), phone, and gifts for church contributions and gifts on various occasions. My Miscellaneous category covers my insurance and all big budget items, and unforseen events. Budgeting has improved my finances tremendously, and I am less stressed out.
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Thanks all for your input. I am working on a 2010 budget that I must adhere to . I spent +7000.00 out of my savings to cover “overspending, what the hell moments” and “oh we need it” ( ME DUMB ASS). Also helping my new husband – his business is suffering. I am keeping to my resonsibilties I need some guidance on how to deal with this issue. Funy thing mom likes us being married but keeps begging to her son to me it is verbal crap – who is clueless, I will ngrow and hope the new hubby will grow with me
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