An Introduction to Square-Foot Gardening
Published on - April 21st, 2007 (Modified on - April 23rd, 2007) (by J.D. Roth) I grew up in the country — gardening meant a large plot, plowed and raked, and then planted with long, widely-space rows of vegetables. It also meant weeding and hoeing, weeding and hoeing. Gardening was a chore.
When Kris and I bought our first home, we both wanted a vegetable garden, but we didn’t want the drudgery that came with it. Besides, we didn’t have a big space in the country — we had an average city lot. Fortunately, we discovered Mel Bartholomew’s Square-Foot Gardening.
The square-foot gardening concept is simple: Build a raised bed, divide the space into sections of one square-foot each, and then plant vegetables (and/or flowers) in just the amount of space they need. The advantages of this system include reduced workload, less watering, easy weeding (and not much of it), and easy access to your crops. This is a great way to learn to grow some of your own food.
We built our square-foot garden one Saturday in mid-April. I spent the morning constructing three raised beds out of two-by-sixes. Each bed was twelve feet long, four feet wide, and twelve inches tall. I am not a handyman, yet I was able to build these in just a few hours. It was fun.
Digging was less fun. I spent the afternoon double-digging three patches in our lawn. We maneuvered the frames into place, leveled them, and then filled them with rich soil (purchased from a nearby nursery-supply center). Finally, we created a grid over each bed using tacks and twine. When we were finished, our raised beds looked similar to the one my friends Andrew and Courtney built recently:
After we built the raised beds and outlined the growing space, we followed the guidelines in Bartholomew’s book. (A revised edition was published last year. It’s lovely, but if I were looking for this book I’d buy the older version, which is available cheap. Your public library should even have a copy — it’s a classic.)
According to the official site, the ten basic tenets of square-foot gardening are:
- Layout. Arrange your garden in squares, not rows. Lay it out in 4′x4′ planting areas.
- Boxes. Build boxes to hold a new soil mix above ground.
- Aisles. Space boxes 3′ apart to form walking aisles.
- Soil. Fill boxes with Mel’s special soil mix: 1/3 blended compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite.
- Grid. Make a permanent square foot grid for the top of each box. A MUST
- Care. NEVER WALK ON YOUR GROWING SOIL. Tend your garden from the aisles.
- Select. Plant a different flower, vegetable, or herb crop in each square foot, using 1, 4, 9, or 16 plants per square foot.
- Plant. Conserve seeds. Plant only a pinch (2 or 3 seeds) per hole. Place transplants in a slight saucer-shaped depression.
- Water. Water by hand from a bucket of sun-warmed water.
- Harvest. When you finish harvesting a square foot, add compost and replant it with a new and different crop.
You might, for example, plant a single tomato in a square, but you’d plant 16 carrots in another. Using this system, you can cram a lot of garden into a small space and still get excellent yields. For more information, check out:
- Journey to Forever: Building a square-foot garden (excellent tutorial!)
- Steven and Paula Hicks: Our square-foot gardening experience
- GardenWeb: Square-foot gardening forum
- Tim’s square-foot gardening page
If you don’t have the time or space to construct raised beds, consider starting a container garden. We’ve never done this, but I’ve heard reports from apartment-dwellers that good results can be achieved from plants grown in large self-watering pots on a patio or balcony. (Edit: In the comments, Beth recommends the book The Bountiful Container for those interested in the subject.) Find more information at these sites:
- Texas A&M University: Vegetable gardening in containers
- Garden Guides: Guide to container gardening
- West Virginia University extension service: Container gardening
- Arizona Master Gardener manual: Vegetable garden: Container garden
- Virginia Tech extension service: Four keys to successful container gardening
Now’s the time to get your garden space ready. The danger of frost has passed in many parts of the United States. Garden fairs and plant sales have begun to pop up like weeds. Get out there and grow some food!
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[...] An introduction to square-foot gardening [...]
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What type of wood are the raised beds generally made of? I imagine people just use pine, but here in the south I think I would only get a couple of years out of pine. Just wondering if something like cypress might be better. Any thoughts?
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@Janna: Last boxes I build I made with 1″ cedar. They were still going strong on their 6th season when I had to leave them behind last summer. This year I plan to use redwood instead.
DO NOT use treated pine. You don’t want the chemicals in your food. You can use untreated pine, but expect to replace parts of it every year or so.
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I have some guard railing 1′X16′ I am considering using for the sides of raised beds. They are painted over Galvinized steel. Do you see any problems?
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@Jeff: Personally, I’d take the paint off of any surface that touches dirt. But otherwise it sounds like a cool idea. Should look good.
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Just delicioused the article so that when we finally have a house with some land we can do this. I love the idea of less work.
I am hoping to do a couple of fruit trees too.
It will make a nice dent in the summer budget.
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Thwy tell about the bed but nobody gives any advice on how many of each vegatable to grow in each square 1′x1′
For example, how many carrot, or cauliflower, corn, romaine lettuce and so on.My tomatoes, 2 to a square are doing fine, but the radishes, 9 just grow into seed. what am I doing wrong
http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2007/04/21/an-introduction-to-square-foot-gardening/
please leave letter for reference
Ursula
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Dear Ursala,
squarefootgardening.com provides detail but you must look for it in text and visually. There are descriptions in FAQ and visuals in teaching aids. There is a forum about individual plants. The principle and pattern is easy. Mel promotes the essentials but he stops at the grid. Template planting is equally important but is not emphasized. Template planting involves several templates depending on plant spacing. The minute you visualize it, it will make sense and the information is available on squarefootgardening.com. There is no reason for me to reproduce it.
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There are even web-based garden design applications. ZipHarvest.com has an actual online garden layout tool that can be used to design custom gardens or people can purchase an existing garden built by a professional (after purchasing, seeds arrive in the mail apparently). I think they just added a replica of the new White House kitchen garden…
http://www.zipharvest.com
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Hey thanks for the shout out EastrnGrl. Yes, our web-based Garden Design tool does much of the work of calculating plant and row spacing, seed qty, bed placement, etc. Just choose your crop, click and drag to place. As you mentioned, we’ll kit all the seed needed for your design and include a customized online workook that walks you through everything step by step. Short video on youtube if you’d care to see more: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meAWokYeYQs
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I am excited about my 40×40 fenced in square foot garden. I wished I would have done this 30 years ago. It’s amazing how much you can actually grow and produce. I am working on another 30 foot section. Answering to some questions, Melons are easily grown and squash, if craddled when the veggies get to a certain size. ANYTHING can be attached to a trellis, if the trellis is properly supported.
Happy Gardening
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I’ve been trying to decide between Mel’s square ft. method and the Mittleider method. I’ve heard that the Mittleider method has an even much greater yield and deals more with lowering acidity levels. Does anyone know which method offers more yield or are they about the same. Thanks for any advice.
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Hi. There are some great posts here, but I wanted to add my two cents on bed building. I used cinder 4″x8″x16″ cinder blocks to build my beds. They came out slightly larger than 4′x4′. I only managed to finish one bed last year, but I planted it with tomatoes and they went crazy. I would have gotten really great yields if the dogs hadn’t have eaten most of them!
Using the cinder blocks helps warm the soil/plants even better! Plus, I left the top of the blocks open and use the holes to grow herbs, etc.
There is a little extra work involved in the beginning because you have to slightly bury the first level of blocks, but then I reinforced the setting of the blocks with rebar and used mason’s adhesive between the two layers of blocks for added hold. I got the blocks as seconds from a local plant so they were like 1/2 the price you would pay at Lowe’s or Home Depot. And, instead of just being a regular concrete gray, they have more of a pink tone to them so they actually look a little decorative.
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I’m about to start building raised beds (and I, too, want them more like 30 inches high because my knees are shot). I was planning on using 2x10s and was wondering about longevity of the boards if I line them with a really thick plastic. I used off the shelf plastic stapled to my board fence where I wanted to plant a short raised bed against it–and that was 15 years ago. Still no rot on fence. I have some ridiculously think clear plastic left over from an asbestos removal project (the plastic is new).
Any reason I shouldn’t line the raised beds? We don’t have excessive moisture/rot issues here in Denver. (In fact, I have to water the compost bin.)
And thank you all for sharing such great information!
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If you have a higher raised bed, just what the heck do you put in the bottom so you are not having to put expensive dirt in – I want to start with 4 courses of the cinder blocks for 32″ height. I LOVE the idea of herbs and flowers in the open holes on top. The base has to be solid or the frost would get it from underneath – I’m in northern Minnesota near Fargo, ND. When I moved here, it was 61 below wind chill so it gets a bit cold.
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Hi Diane,
I just finished building two raised beds, 24″ high – nice height to sit on while working in the beds. I filled the bottom foot with plain old dirt (tri-mix) – at $31 a cubic yard, it’s not expensive to fill. Compost is even cheaper at $20 per cubic yard…. the perlite was the expensive part. Here’s an image of my finished beds… just put the last plants and seeds in today.
http://greenterrafirma.com/square-foot-garden-construction.html
Good luck, Bruce K.
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Have any of you checked out Lasagna Gardening? It’s layers of newspapers, grass, compost, etc. right over grass or even packed down dirt. I did it in my first raised garden and the next year I dug down to check the bottom and the sod was GONE and so was the newspaper – all decomposed beautifully.
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I’ve successfully combined lasagna gardening with square foot planting. Another method I love comes from Ruth Stout’s No-Work Garden Book.
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I recently saw a large-ish garden seemingly built around the idea of square foot gardening. I think that when I have a large garden of my own I’d like to set up boxes even if there is plenty of land to forego boxes, because maybe that saves time weeding and helps to keep everything organized. Do you think this could be a good idea?
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