What is a Roth IRA and Why Should You Care?
Published on - June 5th, 2007 (Modified on - July 11th, 2007) (by J.D. Roth) The most common e-mail I get goes something like this:
I’m going to start a Roth IRA on my own, and I’d like to know what online sites you or your readers would suggest. I want to invest in index funds, having heard they are the bee’s knees, but books and the web, and magazine articles are sadly silent on the HOW, spending lots of time on the WHY.
Right now I’m looking heavily at e*trade and ING. I need to know more about Roths before I make my final decision, although ING is looking the best right now. Vanguard sounds good, but that $3000 minimum is a problem.
This is a big question, and I have a lot of information to share with you, so I’ve divided my response into three parts. Today I’ll provide a brief overview of IRAs. In part two, I’ll explore at how and where to set up an IRA. In the final part, we’ll discuss various investment options.
IRAs are easy — there’s no reason to be frightened of them. Don’t let anything that follows intimidate you. (If you have questions, please ask in the comments.)
If you don’t understand why it’s important for you to open a Roth IRA, please watch this video about the power of compound returns. Then read about how compound returns favor the young. The earlier you begin to save for retirement, the easier it is, and the wealthier you will become.
Individual Retirement Accounts
An IRA is an Individual Retirement Arrangement, though it’s more commonly called an Individual Retirement Account. An IRA is simply a holding account. It’s a label. When you open an IRA, it contains nothing. Like a bucket, it’s a place for you to put things.
The things you place in your bucket are investments. You might, for example, buy stock through your retirement account. Or maybe government bonds. Some people use their IRAs to buy real estate. And some simply let their cash sit there, earning interest, just as it would if it were deposited in the bank down the street. (Last night I spoke with a friend who had his IRA funds sitting in a savings account, and only yesterday moved the money to an index fund!)
Smart people mix things up over time. Their buckets may contain a combination of stocks, mutual funds, bonds, and real estate. But they don’t have to. Your IRA can contain a single index fund, if that’s what you want.
An IRA is not an investment — it’s a place to put investments.
Types of IRAs
When you use a non-retirement account, you invest post-tax money. Depending on how you invest, you may also be taxed on dividends and capital gains along the way. You’ll also be taxed on the earnings when you sell your investment. An IRA avoids one set of taxes, allowing your money to compound more quickly. The two types of IRAs that you should know about are “traditional” IRAs and Roth IRAs.
With a traditional IRA, the money you invest is probably tax deductible, but the money you pull out at retirement will be taxed at the then-current rate. You don’t get a tax deduction on the money you contribute to a Roth IRA, but at retirement, earnings can be withdrawn tax-free. Put another way: money in a Roth IRA is taxed at the front end, money in a traditional IRA is taxed at the back end.
Unless you earn a lot of money, a Roth IRA is probably ideal for most people reading this site. The rest of this article deals specifically with Roths.
Roth IRA Rules and Requirements
Not everyone qualifies to contribute to a Roth IRA. If your tax filing status is single and you earn more than $95,000, your contributions are restricted. If you are married filing jointly, your contributions are limited if your household income is more than $150,000. Moneychimp explains:
IRAs were created to encourage people to save for their retirement, by offering them a significant tax break. They are intended for ordinary working people — not, for example, the wealthy (income limits prevent them from participating), or trust fund kids too lazy to get a job (contributions have to be made from salary, not from investments or other income).
Check out Moneychimp’s Roth IRA contribution limit calculator to see if you qualify. (The calculator is a little buggy — be sure to start at the top and re-select all parameters if you make any changes.)
Other important facts:
- If you are not yet 50 years old, you may only contribute $4,000 to your IRA in 2007 — if you’re older, you may contribute $5,000. (If you go over limit, you are fined on the excess amount. I’m unclear as to whether the rest of the excess can then remain in the account.)
- To invest in a Roth IRA in any given year, you (or your spouse) must have earned income. (In other words, you can’t contribute to a Roth if all of your money came from an inheritance during a particular year.)
- You can use a Roth IRA even if you have a 401k or other retirement plan.
- You must make your contributions by the tax deadline each year.
- Reinvestment of dividends and distributions are not counted against your contribution limit.
- You can invest in almost anything you want. (Some things — such as life insurance or collectibles — are off-limits.)
- You may withdraw your contributions at any time without penalty. If you attempt to withdraw your earnings before the age of 59-1/2, they will be subject to taxes and a 10% early withdrawal penalty (except in special circumstances).
- Also — and this is a big one for many people — you may withdraw up to $10,000 in earnings without penalty in order to buy your first home.
There are other arcane guidelines and provisions, but these are the basics.
Where to open an IRA
There are many places to open retirement accounts. Each has advantages and disadvantages.
Many banks and credit unions offer IRAs, but they may only allow the money to be used for certificates of deposit or money market accounts. Big-name mutual fund companies like Vanguard are great places to open an IRA, but they often require a minimum initial investment of several thousand dollars and provide a limited universe of investment choices. Discount brokerages like Sharebuilder and E*trade allow new investors to begin saving for retirement with no minimums, but their fees may be higher.
There’s no one right place to open an account. You will need to search for a place that is good for you. (I’ll explore some options in part two of this series.) Questions to ask during your research include:
- Is there a minimum initial investment?
- What sorts of fees are assessed to the account?
- Does the company offer automatic contributions? What are the limits?
- What investment options are available? Can you invest in stocks? Mutual funds? Real estate?
- Is it possible to download statements automatically into Quicken?
Remember: the perfect is the enemy of the good. It’s far better to open a Roth IRA now through any provider than it is to delay because you’re worried about finding the number-one best place. Do some research. When you find a place that meets your requirements, open an IRA. Don’t fuss and fret, worrying whether or not it’s the best choice. Find a good choice and go with it.
Conclusion
IRAs are easy. They’re just tax-advantaged holding accounts for your investments. Don’t be frightened of them. For more information check out:
- I Will Teach You to Be Rich: The world’s easiest guide to understanding retirement accounts
- Kiplinger’s: Why you need a Roth IRA
- Ben Stein: Six key principles of saving for retirement
- IRS Publication 590: Individual retirement arrangements. (Dylan says: “It covers just about everything you need to know about IRAs, and is one of the more reader-friendly pieces the IRS has.”)
- GRS discussion forum: Roth IRA hints and tips
In the next part of this introduction to Roth IRAs, we’ll explore what it’s like to actually open an account. Preview: it’s pretty darn easy.
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The GRS Introduction to Roth IRAs series Part 0: How compound returns favor the young Part 1: What is a Roth IRA and why should you care? Part 2: How to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it) Part 3: Which investments are best for a Roth IRA? Part 4: Questions and answers about Roth IRAs |
Remember: I’m just learning about IRAs myself. I’m sure to have missed some things. Fortunately, there are some sharp Get Rich Slowly readers out there to clear up mistakes. (I’ll incorporate corrections into the body of the post.)
Addendum: Matt_In_TX has an excellent point. “Please study IRA and taxes for yourself, and also seek professional advice when needed. Not all the information here is necessarily complete or correct for your situation. ” I’ve done my best to be accurate, but this is only an overview. It’s important to do your own research. I am not a financial professional — I’m just a guy like you trying to learn more about money.
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I’d also like to see more info on this issue of more than maxing out your employers 401/403 and then doing the (Roth) IRA before you go on and save more in your 401/403.
I don’ t understand why I should go with an IRA if I can just add more to my 401/403.
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@Beth-
There’s no general benefit to having everything in one place, other than the simplicity of familiarity. There may be benefits specific to one institution or another but those usually only kick in above $25k-50k in combined assets.
For example, E*Trade’s magic number is $50k. If I have a $25k brokerage account and a $25k IRA, they wave all maintenance fees and I get cheaper trades.
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@Nepkarel-
The conventional wisdom for retirement savings that JD mentioned is usually set up that way because not everyone can afford to fully max-out their contributions in each category. Thus, from the perspective of returns on investment, we recommend you take full advantage of your employer’s matching funds. At this point, assuming you can afford to save more money for retirement, you now have the option to either contribute more to the 401k or to an IRA. From a tax-perspective, most people are probably better off with the Roth, not to mention the additional flexibility that having a wider variety of investment choices affords. If, after maxing out your Roth contribution, you can still afford to save more towards retirement, THEN you go back and increase the 401k contribution over and above the employer match cutoff.
I don’t personally believe this is a step-by-step process though. It requires planning at the beginning of the year, based on a budget you’ve prepared ahead of time. (Because most HR departments probably don’t want you changing your contributions more than 2-3 times per year, though you should certainly be allowed.)
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I have heard good things about setting up a Roth IRA with Firstrade (many fund options [including Vanguard] and low costs). I would be interested to know if your research bears this out.
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Nepkarl,
You shouldn’t max your 401k before investing in a Roth.
You should fund your 401k to the employee match, then max the Roth, then add more to 401k to max.
The reason is that with a Roth, you can pull out the amount you’ve invested (but not capital gains) without a penalty at any time. if you pull out any money from a 401k, then you have to pay income tax plus a 10% penalty except in rare circumstances.
So if you have a bad situtation where you need some money, a Roth is much less painful than a 401k.
On top of that, it’s been suggested that current tax rates are historical lows across the board. So paying the taxes now (with a Roth) and not paying tax in the future is likely to be advantageous if tax rates rise.
That’s speculative, and it could be that as tax rates rise, a Roth could be taxed in the future as well, but it is less likely. Tax rates could also fall in the future, but that is less likely.
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I chose a traditional IRA for the following reasons:
1. Immediate deduction on tax return ($4000 for me).
2. Investing pre-tax to build it up faster, although brad’s comment (#11) makes me reconsider this strategy.
3. It’s untouchable. The ability to withdraw from a Roth is, in my view, a negative.
I’m going to study the chart you linked (comment #13). That’s the first time I’ve seen examples of different tax rate and holding period scenarios.
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I worked with a company that went out of business and I could not roll over the 401k from them to the new place I work. So, I just went to a local bank and opened a Roth IRA. I do not know much about these & how they work, but I didn’t know where else to put the money. I have noticed when I get year end statements that I am only getting 1.98%. This seems like an unusually low interest rate. There is about $8,000 in the acct. Should I take this $ and run to T. Rowe Price , Vanguard or ING??? Will the work to find me a better way of investing this money without huge fees. Help Please.
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One thing I noticed you failed to include was fund expense fee’s. Let me elaborate.what they mean by a .21% fund expense is this. If you were to hold a account with Vanguard with $4,000 with a .21 % annual fee you would be charged a $8.40 fee for that year. Compare that to a .83% fee with Fidelity you would be charged a fee of $32.20. This may not seem like much now but add the lost compounding over the life of the IRA (30+) years and that could be in excess of tens of thousands of dollars if not more. ***One thing to remember is that both Vanguard and Fidelity offer two of the BEST funds both of which have fund expenses below the average. I take an educated guess when I say that perhaps Vanguard has a slightly lower fund expense because the minimal investment requirement but I could be wrong. Therefor it is in your best interest to investigate the various fees. I hope this post was of some help.
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[...] Experimenting with my IRA — Back then I had tons of ideas. Unfortunately most of my money was in IRA, so I experimented using my retirement money — big mistake! First, money lost in an IRA cannot be replenished. I was allowed to deposit $2,000 per year and that was the limit. Second, I could not claim my losses as tax deductions. Since the IRA was tax-sheltered, the loss was simply a loss. [Learn more about IRAs.] [...]
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I want to fund a Roth IRA asap. Am 45 and going through a divorce and need to start thinking of future (since I didn’t do that all these years!) I was going to contribute the max. amount right away but am worried that since I don’t know how much alimony I will receive, there is a “slight” chance I will exceed the income limits for roths. I hate to wait any longer because I see valuable saving time slipping away from me. Do you know what would happen if I opened a roth ira and then exceeded the income limit to do so?
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I have a standard IRA at Dean Witter, but since it is $9,500 a low balance, I have to move it. I am getting charged low balance fees. I have a rollover IRA w/ Vanguard from an old 401k. It is 1300.1) Should I move the two together and mingle the money,2) should I convert it to a Roth IRA or wait until the markets are less volatile. IS it better to convert it to a roth now when it is worth 9,500 or wait until it loses money? will there be less taxes on it if it goes down? , and 3) should I keep two Roth IRAs one for the rollover and one for the std ira? Or should I just liquidate it all and pay off my 10,000 in credit card debt at 3.9% and take the penalties? Thank you for your input.
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[...] How an IRA works and how to get one going at Get Rich Slowly. JD at Get Rich Slowly covers the 411 on individual retirement accounts and shows you various options you can try to get going on those crazy fun tax-advantaged accounts. [...]
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I currently owe the the IRS so I was wondering, what would be the better choice in your opinion. Pay off uncle Sam completely first or do both. Is that a tax penalty if i try an open one first before completing my tax duties? Curious!
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Good points… IRAs are not investments, but places to store investments. I like the bucket analogy.
Unfortunately, as your emails suggest, some unknown (but probably high) percentage of people are intimidated by the very thought of opening an IRA, so they end up doing nothing. That’s too bad, because few things could be easier.
If those people know enough about computers to email you, then they’re more than capable of setting up an IRA online through a discount broker… in many cases with no fees or minimums. Just fill out the online forms, designate a contribution year, fund the account, and you’re done.
Thanks for raising awareness of this common line of inquiry…
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Hi, I’m gettng an inheritance but my children are on SSI, can I open a ROTH IRA, or would that be considered an asset and jeopardize their SSI payments?
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@HeidiC – A Roth IRA can only be funded with earned income. So social security payments, inherited wealth, pensions, disability payments, interest income, dividends, etc. can NOT be used to fund the Roth IRA in question.
In addition, a child can’t legally hold a Roth IRA. However, they can have a Custodial Roth IRA controlled by you until they reach adulthood. This, however, will be considered their property, so it might effect SSI payments.
Nevertheless, if you have earned income, you can contribute to a Roth IRA and name your children as the beneficiaries. Then, in the event of your death, they’ll inherit the contents of the Roth IRA.
Hope this helps.
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Good morning! No one I speak to, including HR Block, can answer my question. Maybe you can help.
I make slightly less than $100K per year. I contribute 10% to my 401K plan each year, which also receives a 5% match from my employer.
Many years ago, I left a company and converted my 401K from that firm into a conduit IRA, which I converted to a ROTH IRA last year.
My question is simple. While I’m contributing to my 401K plan with my present employer, can I contribute to my ROTH IRA, too? If so, is there a contribution limit?
Thank you for helping me.
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Thank you so much for this information! I really like how down to earth it is. I have been reading up on this subject but am far from an experienced investor. Some sites are so technical.
Again, thanks for creating an article that I can wrap my head around!
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