Greetings from Ireland!
Earlier this week we flew from London to Dublin, and for the past few days we’ve been exploring the Emerald Isle. My wife’s parents, who have generously funded the bulk of this trip, booked us on a series of rail-and-bus tours of Cork, Cobh (Queenstown), Killarney, Waterford, Kilkenny, and the ring of Kerry. As a result, I’m getting a crash course in rail travel, which is something new to me. (I’m also reading a lot of personal finance books — there are huge blocks of downtime on these trips.)

The Irish countryside is beautiful — very much like Oregon.
I’ve been impressed with the mass transit systems in both London and Dublin. Portland has a network of buses and light-rail trains, but I rarely use them, so I’m not able to speak to their cost or convenience. (In the next decade, the light-rail line may extend to within a few miles of our home, making it more accessible.) I like the notion of paying €1.40 (roughly $1.90) to take a bus or train ride from one part of the city to another. Because gasoline here costs about $8/gallon, mass transit is an attractive alternative.
My spending continues to be within my $100/day budget, though it far exceeds my $50/day target. I have no doubt that — airfare and lodging aside — left to my own devices I could vacation in the U.K. and Ireland for $50/day with ease. The logistics of my group make this impractical. While I’m fine with grocery store meals, my in-laws prefer for the family to eat together in a pub or restaurant. They also like to see the big attractions, which often cost money.
As commenters noted last week, however, there are many free (or cheap) attractions in and around London and Dublin. London, especially, has some great free sights:
- The National Gallery
- The British Library
- Natural History Museum, which we did not see
- Tate Britain and Tate Modern
- Victoria and Albert Museum — this was one of our two favorites on the trip highly recommended
- The British Museum — the second of our two favorites
All of those are awesome, and all of them are free. The last two are each worthy of an entire day. (The National Gallery may be worth an entire day, too, depending on how much you love art.)
Another cheap way to have fun, in my opinion, is to walk the city. Unfortunately my companions don’t seem to agree. My best day so far was walking London from Victoria Station to Buckingham Palace to Piccadilly Circus to the British Library to the Embankment to Westminster Abbey and then back to Victoria Station. It was awesome. I walked over ten miles and saw parts of the city that I would have missed if I had traveled only by the Tube.
We still have two days here in Dublin and then we’re off to New York. My notebook is filled with outlines for Get Rich Slowly entries, and I’ll have half a dozen books to review by the time the trip is over. For now, though, there’s another week of great guest articles to go!
This article is about Administration, Travel Sunday, 29th July 2007 (by J.D. Roth)


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July 29th, 2007 at 6:14 am
This is a particularly exciting post for me as I’m going to Ireland in October.
Was there a specific tour company you booked your rail/bus tour with? I’ve been exploring this option and would love to hear more!
Have fun!
July 29th, 2007 at 7:45 am
Wow, when I backpacked Europe 10 years ago, I lived on $50 *Canadian* a day. That was about the same as $30 or $35 US. However, I can understand why your in-laws want to go to pubs and restaurants. I’d probably do that a little more now, too.
July 29th, 2007 at 8:22 am
If you’re looking for a hobby that will get you outside and in the fresh air, check out geocaching (www.geocaching.com). I travel extensively and always take my GPS. This hobby has taken me to places that I never though existed.
July 29th, 2007 at 8:26 am
I’m impressed that you are able to keep within your budget.
We Irish generally think that the prices here are extremely expensive, the term “Rip Off Ireland” is in common usage here.
I live next to the Cathedral in Cobh, what did you think of the town ?
July 29th, 2007 at 8:41 am
I agree with you totally on walking being a fun, and in my opinion the best, way to see a city. It’s been over a year since I did any serious travelling but I always made a point to spend the first day anywhere new just getting familiar with the place. This typically involved lots of wandering and a reluctance to consult a map.
I got lost plenty of times but discovered things I never would have done otherwise.
July 29th, 2007 at 9:13 am
Andy, our trips have been booked through Railtours Ireland. I think they’ve done a great job. If you decide to use a tour company, they’re a fine choice.
If I were doing these activities again, though, I would self-book and drive, or at least look at this as an option.
July 29th, 2007 at 12:07 pm
Sweet thanks J.D.
July 29th, 2007 at 12:16 pm
I’m glad you enjoyed the museums in London. It is a shame that you did not have the opportunity to go the Natural History Museum, I think it is worth a visit for the building alone. It is a wonderful example of Victorian architecture, they also have some great interactive displays. It has probably been 10 years since my last visit and I’m now thinking it is time for me to visit again.
I agree with you about walking around London. I visit frequently with work and it is always get off the train and straight on to the tube - all rush rush rush. Sometimes, just stopping and walking between locations can be very pleasant as you get the opportunity to see more of the city.
July 29th, 2007 at 3:51 pm
Probably late for J.D., but the Philly Inguirer just ran a good story on doing London on the cheap
http://www.philly.com/philly/travel/20070729_Doing_London_on_the_cheap.html
July 29th, 2007 at 5:09 pm
What did you think of the Global Cities exhibit @ the Tate Modern? I was so excited to see such an exciting exhibit on a subject near and dear to me!
http://www.tate.org.uk/modern/exhibitions/globalcities/default.shtm
July 29th, 2007 at 5:16 pm
I’m so envious, since I would like to be on vacation right now! When I was in Dublin last summer, I managed to save a lot of money on food by filling up at breakfast, since it was free at my hotel, then having another large-ish meal at lunchtime, when restaurants were cheaper (and when many of the city’s coffee shops were open, which have decent cheap food), and then relying on things I picked up at grocery stores or snacks for dinner. This, in my opinion, is one of the best things about traveling solo — being able to pick your own schedule re: eating and other activities. Most of my family and friends do not like walking and/or museums as much as I do.
(There are some pretty good, and cheap [between 7 and 10 euro per person] Korean and other Asian restaurants up near Parnell Square. I ate at a few of these, since I was staying in the area, and they were a nice and relatively affordable change of pace for meals….)
July 29th, 2007 at 5:38 pm
On a related note, I’ve started The Pope’s Children by David McWilliams on the emerging Irish elite, though I haven’t finished it yet. It’s interesting, along the lines of Freakonomics, but WRT the Irish. Though the author seems to be a bit of a sensationalist, some topics include the ballooning consumer debt problem and keeping up with the Jones’.
July 30th, 2007 at 2:07 am
As one of your British readers I’m really glad you had such a good time in London, and that you found a lot of good things to see. London is an expensive city, even for the inhabitants, and it’s gratifying to see that people are still willing to come and visit.
I’m also glad you enjoyed our free museums. The UK government hugely subsidises these national museums as they are seen as treasures for the nation. This is true of museums in Cardiff, Edinburgh and Belfast as well as London. In other cities museums are free due to University subsidies (e.g. in Oxford and Cambridge). However I would like people to consider that museums are expensive, and the government money is not enough to keep them running. They rely heavily on donations. If anyone is planning on going to museums in London, please consider dropping some change in the donation bins (they’re generally by the entrances) in any currency - especially if you particularly liked the exhibits! This will ensure that our children and grandchildren can continue to see these treasures, and will enable more and more of the exhibits to be preserved and studied.
Enjoy the rest of your trip!
July 30th, 2007 at 4:34 am
I love train travel. Its not quite perfect in the UK or Ireland, but you can get to some pretty good locations with much less stress than driving. But then again, I am one of those wierd people that would love to travel from London to Singapore by train - straight through that’d be about 2-3 weeks.
July 30th, 2007 at 8:22 am
Walking London is GREAT. You are so right that you see so many great sites in London (the same is true in Glasgow, I know from personal experience).
BUT, you are also right that The Tube is great. It is so easy to navigate. It’s been about 8 years since I’ve been on it, and I almost guarantee I could still find my way around from memory.
Enjoy the rest of the trip.
July 30th, 2007 at 11:32 am
Did you take that photo JD? It’s nice - looks like a Paul Henry painting.
July 31st, 2007 at 5:08 pm
I love you how keep thinly insulting the people who’ve bankrolled your trip. Might want to rethink it, it comes across as obnoxious.
July 31st, 2007 at 7:04 pm
Hm. It wasn’t my intention to insult my wife’s parents. I am truly grateful for their generosity and the opportunity they’ve given. I re-read this post and I can see how it might come across as insulting, but that certainly wasn’t my intention.
People travel differently. What one person enjoys, another may not. They’re not wrong for not wanting to buy meals from a grocery store, and they’re not wrong for liking organized tours. They just do things differently than I would left to my own devices!
July 31st, 2007 at 7:15 pm
I REALLY want to go to the UK next year and my wife is thinking Italy. I will keep trying to convert her.
With that said, I think it would be cool, for selfish reasons, if you wrote a bit about your trip there when you get back some details
I am kinda like you…Not in a ‘cheap’ way, but when I travel myself, I don’t waste money like when I go with a group…
Have a blast until you get back…
August 2nd, 2007 at 8:40 am
totally agree with the walking - its the best way to see a city. In London there is a fantastic company called London Walks (google for it) leaflets at the Portrait Gallery(Also fantastic) for £5 or £6 you get a two hour Blue Guide tour of bits of london youwould walk past and never realise the history behind it. I take friends who live in london and they love them too!
December 19th, 2007 at 1:31 pm
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