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Quick and Easy Car Maintenance: Change Your Oil and Inflate Your Tires Print
Saturday, 6th September 2008 (by J.D.)This article is about Cars, DIY, Frugality
“The value of proper car maintenance is priceless,” writes Liza Barth at the Consumer Reports auto blog. “Regular maintenance of your vehicle can save you money on vehicle repairs and keep it running smoothly for many years to come.” In particular, Barth encourages readers to keep on top of two easy (but critical) components of car care: oil changes and tire pressure.
Change your oil
The “quick lube” places want you to change your oil as often as possible, but the 3,000-mile oil change is essentially a scam (or marketing ploy, if you prefer). Frequent oil changes might be necessary if your car puts in heavy duty, but for many vehicles it’s okay to change the oil every 7,500 miles or six months (whichever comes first). Consult your owners manual for the recommended schedule for your car. (On my Focus, for example, Ford suggests replacing the oil every 5,000 miles.)
When I was younger, I’d change my own oil. Somehow I got out of that habit. Edmunds.com, in their guide on how to change your oil yourself, reminds us why this might be a good idea:
You’ll save roughly a hundred dollars a year doing this procedure on your own. Oh, and maybe another ten bucks or so when you say no to the guy at the quick-lube place trying to sell you a five dollar air filter for $14.95…If this doesn’t appeal to you, go to Jiffylube or Grease Monkey or your local quick-lube shop, shell out 30 bucks, and be done with it.
Clever Dude recently shared detailed instructions for how to change your car’s engine oil. If you’re more visual than verbal, this video from the Backyard Mechanics does a great job of going over how to change your own oil (once you get past the lame first minute):
Inflate your tires
It’s also important to keep your tires properly inflated.
- If tires are under-inflated, fuel economy and handling suffer.
- If tires are over-inflated, they’re more easily damaged, and the vehicle will experience a harsher ride. Overinflation also makes it difficult to stop under wet conditions.
To care for your tires, check the air pressure at regular intervals (once a month is good) when the tires are cold. (I drive mine to a nearby service station to make the check.) Check the tread depth, and look for other signs of wear. Finally, fill the tire to the pressure recommended in the owners manual (or on the doorjamb placard), not to the pressure listed on the side of the tire.
A well-maintained vehicle is not only safer, but costs less to run. As Benjamin Franklin is said to have observed, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. A little money spent now can prevent bigger expenses down the road.
September 6th, 2008 at 4:37 pm
Hey, thanks for the link JD. FYI to the readers, your results in price vs value will probably vary.
September 6th, 2008 at 5:11 pm
Forget about oil change and tire inflates … most consumers don’t know how to check radiator water. On a recent group trip, my friend almost burned his car. He had no idea of anything about cars. Without my intervention at the right moment, he would have burnt his car. Basic knowledge pays off.
A Dawn Journal
http://www.adawnjournal.com
September 6th, 2008 at 5:31 pm
It’s also good to know which things you can let slide. After my last oil change, which included extra work on the sway bar– I hadn’t noticed anything wrong, but they showed me and I think Milady Buick is more comfortable when she is *symmetrical*– I ended up calling home to Dad to ask where ’serpentine belt needs replaced’ fell on the spectrum of ‘you mean you drove home after that? And you’re not dead?’ to ‘report them to the relevant authorities.’ It’s on my to-do list– basically means calling places and seeing where it’s cheapest to have done sometime before Thanksgiving.
September 6th, 2008 at 6:20 pm
I’m so lucky…my husband does all that stuff! He can’t do the really hard maintenance, but oil changes and the like are well within his skill level.
September 6th, 2008 at 6:39 pm
My dad always had me help him change the oil when I was a kid. He always told me as we changed the oil that I would save a lot of money if I did it myself when I was an adult. Thanks Dad!
September 6th, 2008 at 6:42 pm
I really want to learn to change my own oil, this should be helpful. Thank you!
September 6th, 2008 at 7:02 pm
One thing to note is that you need to dispose of the oil properly. All the oil that comes from tanker spills? Roughly five times that amount goes down the drain from homes and businesses where the owner doesn’t dispose of it the right way. You should be able to pour it back into the empty bottles from the new oil that’s now in your engine, and you can then take it to a collection center.
To find an oil collection center near you, just visit this address (it goes to Google) and just replace “Virginia” with your state: http://is.gd/2iXB. There’s probably a DEQ website with a resource list for your region.
September 6th, 2008 at 10:55 pm
Regarding Charlie’s statement about proper oil disposal, I usually just take the used oil back to where I purchased the new oil, in the emptied containers.
I know that Advanced Auto Parts advertises free oil and battery recycling at all their stores.
September 7th, 2008 at 12:05 am
Changing my own oil would not save any money. It’s a good skill to know and cool for people who are into DIY and working on cars, but that’s about it.
Wal-Mart does $15 oil changes and Jiffy lube and all the other chains and local “Quick Lube” places run coupons for $18.99 or $19.99 all the time. I get 3 or 4 different mailers or coupon books a month with all those coupons. The last time I had work on my car, the place even threw in an oil change. Before that I got a $20 oil change that had a $10 MIR at Pep Boys.
When you consider not only the expense but also the time expense to go buy oil and a filter ( which as an individual you presumably pay retail and not bulk wholesale prices), get down and dirty ( especially if you dont drive a huge tank and have to jack the vehicle), and do it yourself- I am guessing you lose money. If your time has any value.
For certain tasks it’s more about if you enjoy doing it or not, IMHO. The cost benefit is overrated. This can apply to things like mowing the lawn or washing your own car as well. Some people really enjoy that stuff so taking an hour or more out of their day to do it isn’t a problem. Some people are too busy, would rather spend time with family, or just hate doing it to the extent that is makes much more sense to pay someone else. When you pay someone else you take advantage of the division of labor, specialization,etc.
September 7th, 2008 at 5:25 am
I prefer doing it myself, and saving the money (oil and filter are about $8-$9). Spending that half hour around the house is also preferable to me than being at the dealership or chain store waiting while they do it. Plus it gives me a little better idea of what’s going on with my car. However, if I have to change the oil in February, I sometimes opt to let someone else do it.
September 7th, 2008 at 7:59 am
I am going to have to agree with Greg C and say that changing your own oil is probably just a break even proposal.
To change my own oil I need to
1. Buy the necessary supplies
2. Find time to do it
3. Jack the car up
4. Contort my body into unnatural positions to get to the oil filter
5. Dispose of the old oil
I am going to say all in all is about 3 hours of my very limited time.
I am one who always takes the car back to the manufacturer to do all maintenance. No Jiffy Lube no Bob’s 10 Minute Oil Changes. I feel that the people most qualified to work on my vehicle are the people who sold it to me. I am fortunate that the dealership is right by my work and that I just drop it off before work and have the courtesy shuttle drop me off. At the end of the day a co-worker of mine just drops me off and we are all done.
Now I know this isn’t feasible for everyone but has worked out for me nicely. Worst comes to worst I am not liable for any damage or negligence on the maintenance most often performed on my vehicle.
As a side note about tire pressure make sure you rotate your tires every 10k miles or so for maximum tread life.
September 7th, 2008 at 8:14 am
Keeping your tires properly inflated is also a good money-saving tip for bicyclists, for a different reason: underinflated tires are the main cause of flats. Read the recommended tire pressure range on your bike tire’s sidewall and keep it inflated at the maximum pressure (unless you’re riding through mud or gravel, in which case a bit lower will give you more traction).
Underinflated tires cause “pinch flats,” where the inner tube pops by being pinched between the pavement and the wheel rims. These are by far the most common type of flats. I’m pretty careful about checking my tire pressure before each ride, and in the past five years I’ve had only two flats on my bike.
September 7th, 2008 at 8:14 am
my husband is a former factory tech for the brand of cars we drive. he basically all-out refuses to let anyone else touch our cars unless it requires equipment we don’t have at home (ie air conditioning charges, etc.)
we change the oil but always take the tires somewhere for rotation, because tire treadlife warranties are very picky about making sure you’ve rotated your tires every so often. we need receipts.
tire inflation is very important, an underinflated tire can overheat and blow out, maybe even causing serious injury. i check every 2 weeks. but check more than your tire pressure- grab a penny and stick the top of lincoln’s head down toward the tread. if you can see the top of his head, it’s time for new tires. i can’t tell you how many bald tires i see on the road. downright scary.
also, consider that an engine air filter is cheap and can let your engine breathe easier- better mpg as a result.
if you have a high mileage car, you probably don’t want to go 7500 miles between oil changes. one of our cars has an engine series with kinda weak bearings- at 100k, it gets new oil every 3k. our diesel at 250k gets monthly oil changes (which works out to almost 3k.) our other car is still in powertrain warranty and gets 5k changes as recommended by the manufacturer.
other small things can help too- pcv valves, plugs and wires, etc are good preventive maintenance at higher mileage.
September 7th, 2008 at 8:43 am
I really would like to get all of you to realize the advantages of using Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oils and filters to not only extend your vehicle’s life but also to see how much you can save in dollars and cents.
I have commented several times about the 3000 mile myth on this site yet I still see many readers offering unsubstantiated claims about what works best. As an Oil Specialist with over 40 years in the auto industry I speak from a position of knowledge and experience. I have spent many years involved in vehicle Quality Assurance, as well as being a lifelong auto enthusiast and racer, so these things I am telling you are not simply based on anecdotal information but upon actual training and laboratory analysis.
The real culprit in engine wear and oil life is the air filter first and foremost; followed by using quality oil and oil filters. An engine ingests vast quantities of air in order to operate, if the air filter is restrictive or a poor filter medium it does two things.
First and foremost; it must trap incoming dirt to reduce the abrasive action of the dust upon the engine’s internal components. Most garden variety cellulose air filters do a modest job of this at best and some cheaper ones do a very poor job which adds up to increased engine wear.
Secondly the air filter must allow enough air into the engine to facilitate combustion; sadly the trade off has traditionally been to create a restrictive filter media that captures dust while starving the engine for air. I’m sure some of you will reply that you use an aftermarket oil wetted gauze filter, such as K&N etc., to improve air flow and on the surface it appears that you are seeing improved performance and/or better fuel economy. While you may be experiencing these benefits; you are also allowing more dirt and dust to enter the engine because these types of filters are not very efficient at trapping the small dust particles and you are increasing engine wear at the same time. Conversely the cellulose filter was capturing more dirt but it was restricting air flow and consequently starving the engine for air and reducing engine efficiency resulting in reduced fuel economy.
The solution to this dilemma is to use an Amsoil EaA Air Filter which is designed to both capture the fine dust particles that cause increased component wear while at the same time providing greatly enhanced air flow which improves engine performance and fuel economy by allowing the engine to breathe freely. These two things are accomplished by utilizing Nano-Fiber Technology to trap the dirt while maintaining greater air flow. In addition the Amsoil EaA Air Filter is designed to last 100,000 miles and can be easily cleaned with a vacuum cleaner or low pressure, 10 to 15 PSI, air at 25.000 mile intervals. Here’s a link to a very informative video showing why air filtration is so vital to your vehicle’s performance and longevity http://www.amsoil.com/video/company/EaFilters/index.aspx
By switching your vehicle to Amsoil Synthetic Oil and Amsoil EaA Air and EaO Oil Filters you will save money in several ways.
#1 Clean air into the engine reduces air restriction and wear while improving fuel economy.
#2 Clean air also extends the life of your motor oil because it stays cleaner, again this is because the engine is not ingesting abrasive dirt and debris.
#3 Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oils are designed for extended drain intervals which means less cost on a yearly basis. Amsoil Synthetic oils are designed for drain intervals of 12 months or 25.000 miles when using Amsoil Oil and Air Filters.
In summation the benefits of using Amsoil Oils and Filters result in lower overall maintenance cost, reduced engine wear, longer oil and filter life, greater fuel economy and increased vehicle reliability. When contrasted against the standard way most quick lubes and auto repair shops push 3000 mile oil changes and mediocre filtration, as well as the environmental impact of disposing of all the used oil and filters, Amsoil is clearly the best value for anyone who is trying to get the most from their automotive maintenance dollars.
Amsoil products are available online at http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/1124190/ via the online store link. As always I welcome any inquiries and questions. I am here to help you find the right Amsoil Products for your individual or fleet application.
Nick Roberts, Six Sigma Green Belt and Lubrication Specialist, Amsoildealer@mac.com
September 7th, 2008 at 9:08 am
I’m going to agree with Jay and Greg C on this one. By the time you buy your oil and filter, and factor in couple of dollars for having to roll around underneath your vehicle on the driveway, (at 47, I feel this a lot more than I did at 27) and the clean up and hauling your oil back to the disposal site, it’s worth more to me to pay the good folks at Wally World $20.00 or so to do it. My Chevy takes 5 qts of oil at $3.00 a pop, plus a filter at $5.00, that’s $20.00 right there!
I do believe that anyone who drives a car should educate themselves as much as possible on auto repair, just to avoid getting ripped off by unscrupulous mechanics. You may even find that replacing a radiator or an alternator is not such a big deal after all, and save yourself a gob of money!
September 7th, 2008 at 10:04 am
Another Ed says that he uses Wally World to service his vehicle. He spends $20 a pop and should be changing his oil at 3000 miles because that is about as far as he should take the low quality oil and filter before replacing it. The filter will be done and the oil will be dirty enough to require it, especially if he uses his car in average everyday stop and go driving which actually qualifies as severe service as opposed to long trips with very few stops which actually places less stress on the engine than stop and go.
Assuming his $20 figure for oil changes, over 25.000 miles, he will spend ($20×8=$160) for poor quality oil and filters as well as reduced efficiency resulting in greater engine wear and poor fuel economy due to friction alone. He is also be causing additional wear to his engine thereby reducing it’s life and adding to his overall vehicle cost.
By going with Amsoi Synthetic Motor Oil and an Amsoil EaO Oil Filter his annual cost will be in the neighborhood of $55 and he will not be contributing an additional 35 quarts of used oil to the waste stream in addition to 8 oil filters. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atm.aspx
As I said in my earlier post the cost of poor quality oil and filters does not add up to any real savings and goes against the concepts that Get Rich Slowly endorses.
Seems to me that this is a no brainer when you do the math! $160 vs $55 adds up to annual savings of $105 which Another Ed can use to invest or pay down his debts.
Nick Roberts, Six Sigma Green Belt and Lubrication Specialist
AmsoilDealer@mac.com
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/1124190/
September 7th, 2008 at 10:27 am
We’ve read all sorts of standards from all sorts of vehicles.
Is it every 3000(doubtful) miles, 5000 miles, 7,500, or 10,000?
So confusing, wasn’t the standard supposed to be every 10,000 miles/oil change?
September 7th, 2008 at 12:46 pm
Wow, Nick - you are very passionate about this topic!
My husband worked as a mechanic to put himself through college - and he won’t touch my car for maintenance. Isn’t there an adage about the cobbler’s kids going shoeless? Well, that would apply to us, too. He firmly believes his time is worth more than the $20 at the shop for my car’s oil change. His truck, however, since there’s clearance for him to roll under there and he buys oil/filters from the guys he worked for 20 years ago at their price, that is worth his time. Sometimes the self-rationalization of what we think is best is kinda funny!
But I’m with the posters above who say whether you change or own oil or not, its still valuable to understand the process and be knowledge about the machine that most of us depend upon on a daily basis.
September 7th, 2008 at 2:39 pm
Wow, Nick, I had no idea that Valvoline was such a poor quality of motor oil. I guess all the professional mechanics I’ve asked about it over the years were wrong. But I think that part of your sig line explains a lot:
-> Amsoildealer@mac.com <-
Plus, I’ve actually HEARD of Valvoline oil before. Can’t say that about Amsoil.
There is a sometimes a fine line between legitimate commentary and a sales pitch.
September 7th, 2008 at 8:07 pm
Ed
After 35 years Amsoil has been on the market longer than any other synthetic oil. Amsoil was the first Motor Oil Manufacturer to offer Full Synthetic Motor OIl and Extended Drain Intervals.
I never once said Valvoline or any other name brand oil was poor quality provided they are changed at not more than the OEM recommended drain interval. What I said was that Amsoil is superior to all other motor oils; especially when you consider Amsoil’s proven ability to perform better and last longer while still offering superior and unequalled protection. Amsoil has a 35 year track record of significantly reducing mechanical wear and delivering longer drain intervals than any comparative motor oil.
Yes you are correct when you say I have a reason to attest to the quality and value of Amsoil products. I do sell Amsoil and the main reason I sell it is because it is simply the best motor oil on the market today.I can make these statements because they are verifiable through SAE and ASTM test criteria showing the superiority of Amsoil products.
I am happy to show you exactly why what I’m saying is true. Here’s a link to a motor oil comparison that uses the same testing procedures and standards as the vehicle engineers used in determining which lubricants should be used in their engines and drivetrains. No smoke and mirrors, simply the facts based on industry standards. Go ahead and look up the oil you use today and see how it stacks up to Amsoil.
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d.cgi/1124190/api_comparative_motor_oil_testing.htm
You are right when you say there is a fine line between commentary and a sales pitch; that is why I always refer to proven test standards and classifications when I assert the superiority of Amsoil Oils and Filters.
Respectfully,
Nick Roberts
AmsoilDealer@mac.com
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/1124190/
September 7th, 2008 at 8:19 pm
Nice post. In addition to fuel economy, better handling, and safety; an additional benefit of properly inflating your tires is improved tread life. Tires that are inflated to the manufacturer’s specifications will outlast over-inflated and under-inflated tires.
September 7th, 2008 at 8:24 pm
@Nick
Enough. I’ve allowed your comments through so far because you’re contributing materially to the conversation. But I need to draw a line someplace, and this is it. You’ve made your point regarding Amsoil.
September 8th, 2008 at 4:44 am
I agree with going with a full synthetic oil. I use and pay the extra for Mobil 1, and change the oil between 5,000 and 7,500 miles, while using a non-Fram oil filter. I have piece of mind that it won’t sludge up my engine since it doesn’t break down like regular oil. The only thing you have to do is check the oil level occasionally, especially during hot months since some does become burned off. Most importantly, keep that oil level at the specified level while going up to that 7500 mile interval (or even beyond for some oils), otherwise you risk having the engine prematurely wear and/or seize up.
September 8th, 2008 at 6:30 am
I used to change my own oil, but in the past few years have taken my cars to the local Firestone. I switched to synthetic oil about a year ago in my 2001 Ford Explorer 97K miles.
One of the reasons I like Firestone is that in addition to oil changes, I buy my tires from them and get a lifetime front end alignment for around $100. When I get the oil changed, I get the tires rotated and the front end aligned. If I have other needs or issues, Firestone will inform me. They also will top off my other fluids. When looking at the cost-benefit of changing my own oil, I just don’t feel that there is enough of a cost savings to do it myself.
September 8th, 2008 at 6:51 am
Hello All,
This will be my last post on this subject. Evidently I’ve been too strong an Amsoil advocate and J.D. has asked me to stop.
It is true that I sell Amsoil Oil and Filtration products but my reasons for posting, and continuing the discussion, stem from my desire to show all participants that there is a better, more cost effective, alternative to the standard operating procedure of changing oil; often while using petroleum based oils.
As readers of this site I assumed that the goals of each reader were to save money so I felt that I had something to contribute to the topic. I also wanted to show that it isn’t necessary to consume as much oil as is the norm while maintaining your vehicle.
I tried to explain that the cost savings of Amsoil are verifiable and significant. In addition to those cost savings I wanted to show how using Amsoil, and the extended drain intervals it affords, would result in less waste oil being produced.
Some of the posts refer to my position as passionate and I suppose that is true but more than that I am an advocate for the wise use of resources which lead to less waste and lessen the impact of disposing of waste oil and filters.
The fact that using Amsoil products is the most cost effective way to maintain your vehicle seems to have been missed by several of my critics and I truly regret that. As an Independent Amsoil Dealer I stand for delivering the absolute best protection for your engine while at the same time offering the most cost effective line of lubrication and filtration products on the market today.
Respectfully
Nick Roberts, Six Sigma Green Belt, Lubrication Specialist
AmsoilDealer@mac.com
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/1124190
September 8th, 2008 at 6:57 am
I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil because synthetics have been proven to be better than standard oils. And at $6 a quart and guaranteed for 15,000 mi. it’s the cheapest and best option for a DIY oil change, not only for the price but also in terms of car maintenance. A good engine starts with the oil.
Standard oil is about $3/quart, but you need to change it 3-5,000mi. to get the most out of it. Most cars use about 4 quarts, so even if you change it every 5,000, you’re still spending $36 for the same distance (15,000mi) vs. $24 for the Mobil 1. If you change it every 3,000 mi that number jumps to $60. Plus you’re missing out on the benefits of using a superior quality oil, i.e. less wear on the engine and less sludge buildup which means less maintenance.
September 8th, 2008 at 12:07 pm
“You’ll save roughly a hundred dollars a year doing this procedure on your own.”
Where do they get this number? If you drive 15,000 miles a year, that’s 2-3 oil changes. Even at $30 a pop (the most expensive, couponless price I could find where I live) that’s less than $100 - and supplies are extra.
September 8th, 2008 at 9:10 pm
So easy to do…cost you barely anything and saves you so much money.
Genius
September 9th, 2008 at 8:45 am
For those who change their own oil, might I suggest a quick release valve. I have used Fumoto drain valves for years on all of my vehicles with no problems. (BTW, I don’t sell them or have any business relationship with them other than a satisfied customer)
Now all I need to get under the car tool wise is an oil-filter wrench and a pan for the oil.
Makes it very simple.
September 9th, 2008 at 12:12 pm
In the interest of full disclosure, I do work for an independent shop, so please feel free to take the following with as large a grain of salt as you’d like…
Beyond the issue of miles between oil changes is the issue of preventative maintenance, and for that reason alone, I’d rather have somebody certified changing my oil. It’s worth it to me to have a trained pair of eyes giving my car the once over for issues, leaks, etc. that could turn into more expensive issues. (Whether you trust your repair shop to give you solid recommendations or not is another matter, I suppose.)
My point, I guess, is that you’ll almost always save much more money in the long run by having an ASE Certified Tech regularly take a look at your vehicle, and the only time most drivers do that is when they get an oil change. Maintaining your vehicle for 10 years is worth something on the order of $250,000 to most consumers, and if that’s not getting rich slowly, I don’t know what is.
Anyway, back to lurking. Enjoy your site, and have for a while.
September 29th, 2008 at 9:21 am
I’m sorry however changing it @ home is cheaper because your not letting those monkeys @ the oil change place break your car.
The housing to my air filter is permanently broken(been checking junk yards for 2 years), I have a slipped ring and the threads on my oil pan are stripped to the point the oil drips around the bolt… all thanks to oil change monkeys not paying attention. They don’t care or pay attention to what they do - they just care about their little check list getting done ASAP. Among things I’ve had to repair thanks to them, I’ve also had wiper blade arms broken, hoses knocked loose(and not reattached by them), screws left off/lost and the housing to my blinker busted.
And all complaints get ya are accusations that you broke it & are trying to blame them.
I’d rather damage my car myself then have those goons continue to do it & BTW if you buy your oil in bulk @ Costco or Sams the oil change cost drops to $7-$9.
November 4th, 2008 at 12:29 pm
I work at Preston Ford in Burton Ohio, and we do $12.95 oil changes up to 5 quarts of oil (additional oil is $2.13 a quart). We also do a 27 point inspection for free. The difference between a quick change and us (dealership) is you have someone that is educated (ford techs have to take courses and be qualified to work here) and knows what they are looking at. You cant buy the oil, and filter for that. There is no gimmick. No mail in rebate. $12.95 plus tax. Also, if we make an error we would definately take responsibility for our actions. There would be no broken air box or stripped out oil plug.
April 23rd, 2009 at 7:00 pm
I am using an oil drain valve to drain my oil. The ball valve is replacing your oil drain plug and you can drain the oil with its lever, so you don’t have to use a wrench to take off the plug. If you often change the oil yourself, I recommend using it. Check the site http://www.qwikvalve.com.
Hope it helps.