25 Useful Financial Rules of Thumb
Published on - March 9th, 2009 (Modified on - December 8th, 2011) (by J.D. Roth) Lately I’ve found myself using more and more financial rules of thumb. A rule of thumb is a general guideline, an easy way to approximate a value quickly.
It’s not meant to be completely accurate. On a whim this weekend, I gathered together many of the general rules I’ve been using, as well as several others I found online. Thanks to those who follow me on Twitter, who also contributed suggestions.
For example, @FourPillars wrote, “I hate rules of thumb — they are a poor substitute for proper analysis.” He’s right, of course. Careful analysis always yields the best results. (And there are times when you need the advice of a financial professional.) All the same, it’s often convenient to get a quick estimate of financial numbers. For those situations, it’s helpful to know guidelines like the ones I’ve listed below.
Saving
The number one rule of saving is: Pay yourself first. Set aside your savings every month before you use the money for other things, including bills. Always pay yourself before anything else.
The standard rule of thumb is to save at least 10% of your income. I think a better goal is to aim for 20%. At MSN Money, Liz Weston writes that if you’re young, you can follow this rule of thumb: “Save 10% for basics, 15% for comfort, 20% to escape.”
Nobody agrees how much you should set aside for an emergency fund. Even the experts offer advice ranging from $1000 up to 12 months of expenses. (The most common suggestions range from three to six months of expenses.) However, via Twitter @The_Weakonomist offered a clever rule of thumb to determine how much to save during a recession: Your emergency fund should cover X months of expenses, where X is the current unemployment rate. In other words, because the U.S. unemployment is at 8.1% right now, you should aim to have enough money in the bank to cover eight months of expenses.
On Twitter, @JoyfulAbode reminds us to bank a raise: “Don’t let raises get to your head. If you get a raise, yay! More for savings! (Maybe take 20% to use in your non-savings budget.)” This is the best way to avoid lifestyle inflation.
Finally, never forget inflation. Inflation is the silent killer of wealth. The commonly-cited average U.S. inflation rate is 3% per year. But the long-term average (since 1913) is about 3.42%. As a rule of thumb, I figure that inflation runs 3.5% per year.
Investing
Because the United States had 25 years of stellar stock-market performance, many of the investing rules of thumb got thrown out the window. Now people are wishing they’d stuck to the basics. One of the most important things you can do is know your risk tolerance before you begin investing. The time to decide how much you can afford to lose in the stock market is before a crash, not after one.
For years, the asset allocation rule of thumb was to have X% of your portfolio invested in stocks, where X is equal to 100 minus your age — with the rest invested in lower-risk investments like bonds. (Thus, if you’re 30, you should have 70% invested in stocks and 30% in bonds.) Over the past ten or twenty years, “experts” began to play with that formula. Since I’ve been writing Get Rich Slowly, I’ve seen all sorts of variations on this rule, with some gurus recommending as much as 140 minus your age invested in stocks. With this guideline, I’d be 100% invested in stocks right now. This is dumb. I suspect that the current market is going to prompt a return to the traditional “100 minus your age” advice. (Another way to think of this is that the bond portion of your portfolio should equal your age, and the rest should be in stocks.)
One rule of thumb I’ve seen many places is to invest no more than 10% of your total savings in your employer’s stock. Remember that diversification is important. If your savings and your job are both with the same company, you have all of your eggs in one basket. This is risky. Famously, many Enron employees were burned when the company went under because they had been encouraged to keep their retirement savings in company stock.
Long-term, the stock market averages about a 10% return. But remember: average is not normal. Also, many experts (including Warren Buffett) expect stock returns to be lower over the next few decades.
Perhaps the granddaddy of all financial rules of thumb is the rule of 72. To determine how long it will take an investment to double, divide 72 by the annual return. Thus, if you’re earning a 4% return, your money will double in approximately 18 years. But if you’re getting 10%, it take just a little over seven years to double your capital.
Homeownership
Via Twitter, @MillionMommyND writes, “Need to cut back? Housing, cars, and taxes dominate most budgets. Make dramatic cuts to these budget busters first.” She’s right. As a rule of thumb, tackle big expenses before small expenses. If you can save 1% when shopping for your home or your car, you’ll save more than if you save 10% each month on your cable television. (Though you should still try to do that, too.) Here are some guidelines for saving on a home:
How much house can you afford? @FrugalTrader writes, “When getting a new mortgage, the balance should be less than 2x your family annual income.” So, if your family makes $120,000 per year, your mortgage should be $240,000 or less.
When lenders calculate how much house a borrower can afford, they use the debt-to-income ratio, a measure of how much of your income goes toward debt. These lending limits have crept upward with time. I’m a strong advocate of being conservative here. I believe your housing costs should be less than 28% of your gross income, and your total monthly debt payments should be less than 36%. These numbers provide ample room but prevent borrowers from being trapped by too much debt.
In the Olden Days, the standard advice was to consider refinancing your home if interest rates dropped by 2%. Closing costs are lower today, and now it often makes sense to refinance your home when interest rates have dropped by 1% from your current mortgage. As always, use this rule of thumb as a flag to start looking, but run the numbers before you take action. (Kris and I are signing on our refinance this morning! We’re dropping from 6.25% to 4.96%.)
Automobiles
After your home, your car is probably your biggest expense. One common rule of thumb when purchasing a car is to buy used, or to buy new and to drive it for ten years. Either one will save you big money. (Do both and you’ll save even more.) Here are a couple of guidelines to use when shopping for a vehicle:
On Twitter, @marubozo suggests the 20/4/10 rule of thumb for buying a car. You should pay at least 20% down, finance for no more that four years, and the payment should be less than 10% of your income. The first part of this rule prevents you from owing more than the car is worth, and the last two parts prevent you from buying more car than you can afford. (@ced1969 offers a different approach: “Never finance a depreciating asset, like a car. Pay cash and immediately start saving for the next one.”)
Here’s another one from Liz Weston: To approximate a new vehicle’s five-year cost of ownership (in monthly terms), double the price tag and divide by 60. Looking at a pimped-out Mini Cooper S? Double that $30,000 sticker price to get $60,000, and then divide by 60. Is it really worth $1,000 a month to get rid of your crummy Ford Focus? (Or bookmark and use the Edmunds True Cost to Own calculator.)
Finally, remember the advice of Tom and Ray, the Car Talk guys: It almost always makes more financial sense to repair your car than to buy a new one.
Retirement
Save for your own retirement before saving for your children’s college education. They can get loans for school. You can’t get loans for retirement. When you’re saving, remember the following:
The standard advice is to aim to replace 80% of your pre-retirement income. I think this rule is lame because it focuses on income and not expenses. Income is irrelevant. It’s what you spend that matters. Instead, I recommend a different rule of thumb: Base your retirement needs on 100% of your pre-retirement expenses — plus 10%.
Another approach to retirement savings says that you’ll need to save about 20x your gross annual income to retire. In other words, if you earn $50,000 per year, you’ll need $1,000,000 to retire. Again, I think this is lame because it focuses on income and not expenses, and expenses are what matter. But still, this can be a handy gauge.
In his fantastic book Work Less, Live More, Bob Clyatt shares a common retirement rule of thumb. If you expect to withdraw from your portfolio for 40 years or more, you can probably safely withdraw and spend 4% of its value every year. (Clyatt notes that you can increase this amount to 4.5% with only “slightly diminished safety”.)
Miscellaneous
According to Consumer Reports, when you’re faced with the repair of an appliance (such as a television or a refrigerator), you should buy a new one if the appliance is more than 8 years old, or if the repair would cost more than half what it would take to buy a replacement.
Here are some general rules for credit cards: If you carry a balance, you want a card with a low interest rate. If you don’t carry a balance, you want a card with rewards. In either case, you want a card without an annual fee. (And if you have trouble with compulsive spending, you don’t want credit cards at all!) For more information, read about how to choose a credit card and how to get a free credit report.
Finally, if you get a windfall, use 1% to treat yourself. (Or maybe 2% tops.) Put the rest in a safe place and ignore it for six months. After you’ve had time to think about it, make your decisions. (Read more: How to manage a windfall successfully.)
Other guidelines
Strictly speaking, rules of thumb deal with numbers. Still, there are a lot of non-numeric guidelines that I think are useful to know. Here are a few:
- Always take the employer match on the 401(k).
- Never touch your retirement savings — except for retirement.
- Never co-sign on a loan.
- Avoid paying interest on anything that loses value. (Note that under normal conditions, home values appreciate slowly, so they’re not included in this guideline.)
- Don’t mess with the IRS. When it comes to taxes, don’t try to cheat. Pay what you owe. Claim all the deductions you deserve, but don’t try to stretch things.
- In general, save an emergency fund first; pay off high-interest debt second; and begin investing (at the same time you pay down remaining debt) last.
- If you’re not willing to pay cash for it, then it doesn’t make sense to buy it on credit.
For more on this subject, check out the following articles:
- Kiplinger’s Personal Finanace: How useful are financial rules of thumb
- MSN Money: 16 favorite money rules of thumb
- Paul’s Tips: Ten good rules-of-thumb for investing
- CNN Money: A cheat sheet for millionaires to be: Financial rules of thumb
- Fairmark.com: Roth IRA rules of thumb
Now it’s your turn. What rules of thumb did I miss? Do you disagree with any of those I suggested? What financial rules of thumb do you use when managing your money?
Photo by Lucian Venutian.
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I wondered why I was getting new twitter followers today… thanks for featuring my suggestion, JD.
Here’s some additional rules of thumb I use:
1) Realize that no one cares as much about your money as you do – including your broker, insurance agent, even your friends. Research, learn how to analyze.
2) Compare renting (and investing your savings) vs buying a home on a regular basis. There are online calculators that can help you evaluate all the angles (like dinkytown.com).
3) Put a price tag on your time so you can evaluate each potential purchase using the TIME required to work for it, rather than dollars. (Explained in detail on my blog.)
4) No matter how much you earn, you’ll never be wealthy if you spend it all. (I saved 20% of our gross income + windfalls to become financially free at 40.)
5) You suggested “save an emergency fund first; pay off high-interest debt second; and begin investing (at the same time you pay down remaining debt) last.”
Generally speaking, I prefer this order:
First, protect your financial future from catastrophe with high-deductible insurance policies (health, disability, term life, personal liability)
Second, pay off “toxic debt” first (highest interest rates; balances that are closest to credit limits).
Third, after paying off all debt balances with interest rates over ~6%, save at least 15% of every penny earned to build an emergency fund equal to 6-12 months of your living expenses.
Fourth, then start investing at least 10% of your gross income (use employer-matched retirement account first).
Fifth, pay off your remaining low-interest rate (<6%) debt balances.
Last, pay down the mortgage. (Actually, if I had a home with a mortgage and I was up to my eyeballs in debt, I’d sell my home to pay off my debt with the equity. Then, after my debt was gone, I had an emergency fund in place, AND I had saved for a 20% down payment, I’d consider buying a home again.)
Oh, I could go on and on here… Great roundup of ideas, JD.
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@Bon,
They just don’t have calculators yet for people like you and me who are so far from retirement. So much will happen with markets and in your own personal situation between now and then that most of the “retirement rules of thumb” won’t really work. Would having a goal in mind help you with your savings? Right now I set aside my retirement money and invest it as I see fit, but I don’t really look at the total yet.
@JD,
I’m curious, what do you think of as “savings”? I set aside almost $1000/mo for irregular expenses (propane, clothing, gifts, car repair, etc). Would some or all of this be savings? Is it items w/o a set bill (eg. ‘Car Insurance’ is not savings, but ‘Car Repair’ is)? Or is it money that goes in without a plan of how it’s coming out again? I have my method and I’m not worried, but this is always a word that I hear and wonder about the user’s definition.
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i cringed a little at the “never co-sign a loan” rule. my parents co-signed for my student loans ($21k over 4 years) because without them i would not have been able to get those loans at that rate (federal, 6.5% avg). BUT! parents, teach your kids about money, credit, interest, saving, etc! when i consolidated my loans, they came out of my parents’ names completely and i am making good progress on them (which is boosting my credit rating). one of my siblings is making them crazy over the loans they co-signed that she has not yet consolidated, and she doesn’t really understand what it’s all about or why it would be important to relieve them of that burden.
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Just a thought…
“To approximate a new vehicle’s five-year cost of ownership (in monthly terms), double the price tag and divide by 60.”
You could skip some math and simply divide by 30. I’m guessing the 60 has to do with 12 months * 5 years = 60. The original idea was probably:
To approximate a new vehicle’s x-month cost of ownership, double the price tag and divide by x.
But I don’t think this would hold true since the first year often has a huge depreciation.
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Great list! it has generated a lot of comment, which is good.
It is gratifying to see how many of these I ‘did the right thing’ even without trying.
As the title says, folks, these are ‘rules of thumb’, not laws of nature. You can adjust as necessary, if your circumstances dictate.
The goal is to make your life better, not to torture you. This isn’t Guantanamo Bay.
Maybe this one is too simplistic, but it’s the easiest to remember:
SPEND LESS THAN YOU EARN.
Cheers!
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@Bon, my investments are through Fidelity (my employer’s 401k pick), and at age 23 their calculator tells me I need about $2m when I retire (yes, in 2049 dollars) and how to get there starting today. Of course their calculator does not factor in that my first two years of investments are halved by the recession
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Thanks, J.D. for another great article. I have a comment/question about car replacement. I do buy low mileage good used cars. The “rule of thumb” years ago was to replace every 60,000 miles, due to reliability and maintenance issues (according to my dad!). I know certain quality brands outlast others, but in general, is this rule of thumb still true?
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One to add to your list: Don’t convert unsecured debt to secured debt.
Case example: friends of ours refinanced their house several years ago and rolled their student loans, car loans, and assorted credit-card debt into the refinance. This consolidated their payments but added tens of thousands of dollars to their mortgage and put the house up as collateral for everything they’ve bought on credit in the past several years.
If they fall on hard times and miss a payment (which is now bigger than it might have been) they’ll risk losing the house. Without the consolidation, they could have missed a car loan payment or a student loan payment without putting their home at risk.
Also, with one big loan payment they won’t get the benefit of the debt snowball (the psychological boost of paying off smaller debts) because everything’s wrapped up in the one big payment.
All of this assumes, of course, that they haven’t racked up more credit card debt in the meantime.
Debt consolidation might make sense for some, but it seems nuts to make your mortgage bigger than it has to be to pay off your boat, clothes, or comic books.
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Thanks for shedding light on the bogus rule that says that upon retirement, folks are going to need 80% of their preretirement income. It’s a myth that is perpetuated by an industry that makes it’s living by the management of folks assets. It’s like going to an insurance agent and asking if you should purchase more insurance. I’m a Registered Investment Advisor, and the pre-retiree’s that I see, aren’t living within their means today. This is evidenced by the Credit Card Debt, Home Equity Loans, and other forms of debt that so many have. My advice to most folks, is to live within their means, clean up their debts, and develop habits that are conducive to living a rich and meaningful life in the present. In the forming of these habits, these folks will discover an income need that is dramatically lower that than the one espoused by the so-called “experts”.
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Off topic: JD, you have hit upon one of my pet peeves. “Rule of thumb” does not mean something different from “rule,” except that the phrase has a pernicious history.
“Rule of thumb” is actually a term going back to old English common law, back in the days when wife-beating was legal, but only if the wife-beater used a rod or staff no thicker than his thumb.
I see “rule of thumb” used all the time, when just a simple “rule” would do. A phrase with so vile a foundation should be avoided.
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These are all helpful financial gages and benchmarks for some people. But like all rules of thumb they should be used with caution and by those who are considering all aspects of their financial life. They should also be used by people who really understand the basic assumptions of how the benchmarks are calculated and how they apply (or don’t apply) to their situation. Many times, people get caught up in the merits of one aspect of their financial lives, because of benchmark or rule of thumb, at the expense of others.
I somewhat agree with @FourPillars who said, “I hate rules of thumb — they are a poor substitute for proper analysis.” I think there can be merit with rules of thumb if used to compare the results of a budget or savings goal already prepared. But for the most part, I think rules of thumb are overused. Anytime you pick up a magazine these days you see them everywhere. It seems like publishers need to grab the attention of readers in the shortest manner possible. After all, rules of thumb are highlights that can be delivered in a snippet.
In the beginning of your article you said, “Careful analysis always yields the best results. (And there are times when you need the advice of a financial professional.) All the same, it’s often convenient to get a quick estimate of financial numbers. For those situations, it’s helpful to know guidelines like the ones I’ve listed below.” I agree with this. However, I think many people who otherwise shouldn’t, tend to overlook the disclaimers or general advice and just skip to the rules of thumb. They take rules of thumb out of context and ignore the affects of these on other aspects of their financial lives.
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I wish there were a little more consistency in what people recommend for an emergency fund, information on the opportunity cost of having one, and some explanation of what constitutes an “expense” for purposes of calculating the fund. Here is what I mean:
This year, I was officially bumped into the highest tax bracket in Canada, which is 46% (here the highest rate kicks in at $123,000, which is much less than in the U.S.) That means for every dollar of interest I earn on an emergency fund, I pay 46 cents in taxes. Since an ING Direct account earns only 2.3% interest, the real return is about 1.3%, which is less than half the rate of inflation. The idea of having $55,000 sitting around like that and rapidly losing value is pretty scary. Accordingly, I have always pumped any extra cash into the mortgage. Mortgages here are not tax-deductible, so the REAL return on investment there is 5.15%, which is quite decent. That means the opportunity cost of a $55,000 emergency fund would be over $2,000 per year. That’s one hell of an expensive insurance policy!
This raises the other issue – since I have always been aggressively paying down the mortgage, the actual amount of money leaving the account has always been about $25,000 more than the “expenses” in the accounting term. Does that mean I should have an $80,000 emergency fund? Who can seriously afford to have that much cash lying around earning no meaningful rate of return except for government?
Am I missing something?
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@ Chacha1, #60:
“rule” and “rule of thumb” do not mean the same thing.
Here’s a definition for rule of thumb: A rule of thumb is a principle with broad application that is not intended to be strictly accurate or reliable for every situation.
And for “rule”: a principle or regulation governing conduct, action, procedure, arrangement, etc.
Basically, “rules of thumb” are meant to be broken, but “rules” aren’t.
And your definition isn’t even true. From Wikipedia:
Origin of the phrase
The earliest citation comes from Sir William Hope’s The Compleat Fencing-Master, second edition, 1692, page 157: “What he doth, he doth by rule of thumb, and not by art.” The term is thought to originate with wood workers who used the length of their thumbs rather than rulers for measuring things, cementing its modern use as an inaccurate, but reliable and convenient standard.
It is often claimed that the term originally referred to a law that limited the maximum thickness of a stick with which it was permissible for a man to beat his wife, but this has been discredited. Although British common law before the reign of Charles II permitted a man to give his wife “moderate correction”, no ‘rule of thumb’ (whether called by this name or not) has ever been the law in England.
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@ Millionaire Mommy beat me to it… no one will ever care as much about your money as you do. Although there are some smooth talkers that will try to convince you otherwise.
LindaB
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@ The Beagle, #60 (I seem to be responding to lots of comments today.)
I think that an emergency fund becomes less useful the more financially secure you get. For example, if you have a year’s worth of expenses invested in the stock market such that you could sell all your stocks and cash out and have the money in three days, you don’t need an additional year’s emergency fund just sitting around earning no interest. You need three days emergency fund, because if there’s an actual *emergency* you can sell some of your stock to help you through it.
When you have a significant amount of investments sitting around that you could use in the case of a long term illness or unemployment, you don’t need an emergency fund to cover those expenses. Simply keeping enough cash on hand to cover likely daily emergencies (such as a car breaking down) is enough. If you keep, say, $2,500 available in your bank account at all times, you’re unlikely to ever need to sell investments to cover minor emergencies like replacing a water heater or getting the brakes or your car repaired.
That’s my take on it, J.D.s may be different.
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chacha1 wrote: “Rule of thumb” is actually a term going back to old English common law, back in the days when wife-beating was legal, but only if the wife-beater used a rod or staff no thicker than his thumb.
This is a myth.
Also, a rule of thumb is very much different than a rule. A rule of thumb is an approximation. A rule is a firm “law”. For example, in American football, you need to gain ten yards to obtain a first down. But if you don’t have a regulation football field, a handy rule of thumb is that a first down is about the length of ten paces. As a rule of thumb, my car used to need gas every two weeks when I was driving back and forth from work. As a rule, however, it needed gas when the tank was empty.
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“As a rule, however, it needed gas when the tank was empty.”
a VERY good lesson in making your car last
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@chacha1 @J.D., don’t be afraid to use the phrase “rule of thumb”. The wife beating story was discredited long ago. The earliest citation comes from Sir William Hope’s The Compleat Fencing-Master, second edition, 1692, page 157: “What he doth, he doth by rule of thumb, and not by art.”[1][2] The term is thought to originate with wood workers who used the length of their thumbs rather than rulers for measuring things, cementing its modern use as an inaccurate, but reliable and convenient standard. Chacha1 don’t repeat everything you hear on movies; “The Boondock Saints” is not the best media to gain information.
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Re: Emergency Funds
IMHO the emergency fund needs to be sensitive to (in descending order of importance): the person’s age (the older people have age discrimination to overcome), ease of replacing their current earning power, the level of job they seek to replace, the “hotness” of their skill, and the “hotness” of their industry. Some of my fellow turkeys, that have passed a “magic number” in age (e.g., 40, 45, 50) find that it’s a lot harder than they thought. For the “elderly” (e.g., 50, 55, 60, or more) there are ZERO opportunities out there. As a nation, we need an ERISA-like protection for older workers. No sense raising the “social security” retirement age, when there is no way for people to work to it. WalMart only needs so many “greeters”! And, the politicians and bureaucrats have managed to destroy 401ks, IRA, and pension plans. So it’s a mess. Bigger emergency funds are needed than most folks imagine.
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@Ben, don’t be snotty; I’ll admit my mistake. Sorry to cause a digression, I’ll stick to commenting on the substance of articles from now on!
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JD,
I understand why you don’t like the retirement estimation based on income, but estimates based on expenses aren’t that accurate either. For example, right now I am paying $2300 a month for my mortgage. But my mortgage will be paid off in 8 1/2 years. Clearly I will not need to factor that into my expenses. So my point or question is you suggest 100% of your expensess + 10% but at what point in your life? Expenses are constantly changing.
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Good and inspiring rule of thumb, I think. But personally I have an opinion: rule of thumb is important indeed, including for our personal financial planning. But, too strict following our own rule of thumb will lead us to other desperate times.
I prefer to stick on principle, that all rule of thumb is made for better life, not vice versa life is dedicate for rule of thumb, because the most important thing is a life itself.
Is personal financial planning important? Yes, sure!
But, just implementing them in flexible way to make us happier, instead of burdens our arms and legs.
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I have a question – total I’m saving about 33% of my gross income, and about half of each yearly bonus I get in addition. 17+% in 401k and 15+% “for a house” which I occasionally buy some index funds with (the market will go back up!).
But am I really only saving 17+%, since I plan on spending the rest? Clearly once I retire (I’m 26, not for a while
) I won’t be saving any more, just spending, but “Saving” for a house only adds to the savings rate right now, it will be a big subtraction once I buy.
Currently my car worth maybe 4k costs about 2k/yr in normal maintenance + repairs. Still cheaper than new!
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I am paying off a car that was repossessed by Honda finance corportaion. I owe them rougly $5,312.53. I really can not afford to continue to make payments. I am making $200.00 payments every 2 weeks, and I am left with very little money for me to buy other things and pay other bill. On top of that, my job is cutting hours. I am a delivery driver for pizza hut. Should I continue paying off that repossessed car? I want to tell them that I just can not pay on it anymore, but they always threaten my by saying that we are going to take you to court for the entire payment in full. They offered me settlement of like $3000.00 but I can not pay a settlement amount either, even if I want to. Should I write them a letter of grievance and tell them over the phone to stop calling me and we will handle this in writing? They did say that if I make a few more payments or 4 more, then they might be able to just call it quits after that because they are understanding of the economy. I need some advice. Thanks.
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Some excellent rules of thumb, J.D. Some random thoughts inspired by your rules:
-Hopefully, the inflation rate will stay at about 3.5%; the way some pundits talk, we’ll be lucky to stay in single digits in the next few decades.
-I’m not sure that a return to the 100-(your age)% in stocks would be such a good thing. For most young people, that leads to putting a rather high portion of their money into bonds and safe investments when they’re still young, cutting down on their potential gains. On the other end, the number of people living to 100 and beyond is only going to rise rapidly in the near future; without a significant portion of their money in stocks (or similar growth investments), their money will slowly decline in real value due to inflation (even ‘benign’ inflation).
A more appropriate (although less ‘rule of thumb’) plan might be to have 100% in stocks until you’re about 20 years away from retirement, than slowly increase your bond (or other safe investment) allocation until you have 60% stocks/40% bonds (the traditional balanced fund) at retirement. (So, 10% bonds at 15 years to your planned retirements, 20% with 10 years to go, etc.)
-I like the idea of planning the needed retirement amount in terms of expenses, rather than income (especially if a large portion of your income is going to investments and retirement saving, which you won’t have to worry about any more). Rather than 20X your gross income, it might be useful to think about 25X your annual expenses (enough to allow a 4% withdrawal rate and still have plenty to grow and build on itself).
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@ Chris # 22
//#16 @ liz: 65K right out of school with a BA? What is your major, money manufacturing? I would adjust your income expectations. You are spot on, though, education in the long run is worth the investment (in the right field, of course).//
Yes, right out of school with a BA, but I should give some history. I have 15 years experience, and was told about 8 years ago that my next logical step was a BA. I was able to do almost 3 years full-time, (one year abroad) and have been employed full-time while working off my last few credits. My final credits are taking me to Germany for two months.
Right now my salary is $65K/ year. Before I started my BA I was making $36K/ year. So, yes, even though I will only have graduated in the fall of this year officially, I’m not what you would call a “youngin” and I don’t think I need to adjust my expectations – because I’m already meeting them! I would say, however, that if I *hadn’t* gone back to school, I would be at my original wage, maybe a wee bit more, and I wouldn’t have had the same life experiences.
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Here’s anothr rule of thumb for you – A dollar saved in your 20′s generates $1 in dividend income in your 60s.. I did a whole post on this a while ago.. Let me know if you are interested
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Here’s another one I didn’t see mentioned above, the rule of “72″. If you want to know how long it will take you to double your money, take the interest rate and divide it into 72. For example:
- 10% interest rate = 7.2 years
- 5% interest rate = 14.4 years
- 20% interest rate = 3.6 years
enjoy!
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Instead of multiplying by 2 and dividing by 60, just divide by 30.
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For the guy wanting some advice for young people, here’s the biggest life lesson I’ve learned at 24:
Find a job you love…don’t worry about the salary. I can tell you from personal experience that money will never make up for the stress of a job you hate.
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Great post! I found this unique and useful.
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How long does it take to double your money at 10% interest?
72/10 = 7.2 years.
At 5%
72/5 = 14.4 years
Basically divide 72 by the interest rate to get the number of years to double the amount
Nick
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I agree with AmberWarren who mentioned giving. I am always disappointed with articles I read that never even mention giving to any kind to charities/organizations/ministries.
For me, my first priority is at least 10% to my church, then sometimes more to other ministries/organizations/cancer research/etc. No matter what.
Whether you are Jewish or Christian & believe “you reap what you sow”, Buddhist “karma”, or the more secular “what goes around comes around”, there is significant personal & economic benefit to giving of your resources.
I implore you all to please give your time or resources such as non-perishable food, gently-used clothing, or donations to worthwhile causes. Many of our neighbors are in great need right now.
Thank you
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Some of the advice up there doesn’t work together. I’ve heard it’s smart to keep a mortgage at 3x salary, not twice it. I ran the numbers, to find out what % of my gross and net would be required to pay a mortgage either double or triple my salary. I kept the interest rate fixed at 6% (generous these days!):
A 6% mortgage on double my income is 14.38% of my gross, and is 23.97% of my net (after retirement savings).
A 6% mortgage on triple my income is 21.58% of my gross, and is 35.97% of my net (again, after retirement savings).
I realize that JD’s rule of thumb (housing costing no more than 28% of gross) is intended to also cover insurance & taxes, and maybe even upkeep, but it seems like I could get pretty close to triple my salary and still meet that guideline.
Naturally, a lower amount of debt is better!! But I live in the Bay Area and the places that are double my income are truly frightening. I am keeping my eyes out and will start scraping together cash after my trip next month, and will see how things look in the fall.
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“When getting a new mortgage, the balance should be less than 2x your family annual income.” So, if your family makes $120,000 per year, your mortgage should be $240,000 or less.
This is a ridiculous rule of thumb if you live in the DC metro area. The median home price is about 300K.
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Thanks for mentioning my mortgage rule of thumb J.D!
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Oooh, such a good list!
I try to follow the rule of thumb on paying yourself first, never touch retirement, and never cosign explicitly.
I don’t own a home yet, so the mortgage ones aren’t really in my circle of concern at the moment. But, most of the other ones I generally stick to, though sometimes I slip up.
I think the only thing you’re missing here are the general rules of thumb on credit:
- Pay your bills on time
- Keep your debt ratios to about 40% of your limits
- Don’t open a bunch of new accounts
And so on.
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I like the suggestion to not build a raise into your budgeting. Using it to increase mortgage payments or pay off loans quicker seems more sensible – you’ll feel much more benefit.
I also agree that your own retirement should come before your kid’s college, or grandchild’s college etc. So often adults nearing or in retirement are denying themselves to fund kids and grandkids. You’ve worked for it, you deserve it.
My sister and husband stood as guarantors for their daughter and her boyfriend when they took a 12 month lease on an apartment. The relationship failed, he moved out and decided not to honour his rent commitment, and it fell back on them. They’ll think twice before doing that again.
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Factoring inflation into the equation, stocks historically have a 2-3% return per annum, not 10%.
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Also, real world unemployment is ~19%, not 8.1%. Plan accordingly.
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Here’s one:
Don’t trust a financial tip that comes in a Twitter-sized package. (Soundbytes are dubious for a reason.)
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Above all else Cash flow is king.
Do not tie your money up into anything unless you have good cash flow.
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Here’s another one a friend of mine keeps running into:
YOU are responsible for your finance. Do not keep blaming past bad luck for your debt. Even if it was not your mistake, you have to fix it yourself.
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The 20-year-old brought up a good point: we have different situations depending on age. It also depends on one’s life situation beyond age. I like to read how-to-save articles, but many don’t apply to me because I don’t have kids or pets. Thrifty ideas are not one-size-fits-all.
Here are my ideas….
Never take out an adjustable-rate mortgage. If rates rise, you are protected. If they fall, you can refinance.
If you are young and single, and aren’t living with your folks, get a roommate or two to save on living expenses.
If you are single and childless, and have no one else (e.g. elderly parents, disabled sibling) who are dependent on you, don’t buy life insurance; you don’t need it. If your job has flexible benefits, try to go without life insurance, or take the minimum LI that you can if they insist on your taking it.
If you live in a major city with great mass transit, and you have a choice between one job in the city and another in the suburbs, assuming all other things are roughly equal, take the city job and dump your car. You’ll save a fortune.
Look at every category of your spending and try to cut costs on each one. You may not be able (or willing) to cut on each one (say, housing), but it’s worth a try.
Someone mentioned the good idea about not putting much of your 401K $ into your company’s stock. Many people remember the company Color Tile, which had tile retail stores across the company. Unfortuantly, company stock was the ONLY 401K investment option the employees had, so when the company went belly up, so did everyone’s 401K. What advice should people in that situation take? I don’t know if other companies have that limitation in their 401Ks.
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@Thrifty Gal Re: Color Tile
That’s an example of when a 401k is a terrible investment. (Also, when the fees are absurd GT 1.5 %. Or also, when your choices are restricted to high load funds like Fidelity.) It’s a fool’s bargain to focus on the tax advantage. In your example, the Color Tile 401k was a way to throw money away. Never mind the match, they lost their contribution.
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if you are planning to have a 30 year mortgage at 5 or 6%, you will end up paying twice the amount … for example, the payments on a $100k mortgage will total about $200k … so the real cost of tomorrow morning’s $3.50 latte is about $7.00 … by this rule of thumb.
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I was really surprised by Consumer Reports’ recommendation about purchasing a new appliance if I have to repair one that is more than 8 years old or if the cost of fixing it is more than half of what I would pay to buy a new one. It makes sense now that I’m thinking about it. I wish I had read this piece before paying to have my ancient dryer fixed…to the tune of $275…and that was with already-used parts. Oh, well.
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Quick question, when you are talking about formulas based on your income are you refering to Net pay after taxes, medical, 401k etc. or Gross income? For example in this calculation you mentioned:
“You should pay at least 20% down, finance for no more that four years, and the payment should be less than 10% of your income”
Thanks.
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