While preparing for the first episode of The Personal Finance Hour yesterday, I was browsing Jim’s archives over at Bargaineering. I stumbled upon an old post about creating a financial network map:
Mapping your financial infrastructure is a mundane task. It’s not exciting. It’s not likely to save you big bucks. Instead, it’s the sort of Big Picture exercise that each of us ought to perform from time-to-time just to be sure that everything’s working the way we think it is. If you do this every year or two, you just might catch some inefficiencies that need to be corrected. I did.
I didn’t map my accounts with pictures. Instead, I described the connections with words, starting with the account that collects all of my income:
Business checking
I have a business checking account at Wells Fargo, a large traditional brick-and-mortar bank. This was not a conscious decision, and is a legacy from the origins of my former computer consulting business.
Currently, all of my income is routed through this account (because all of my income comes from the business). This checking account is used to pay all business expenses, including:
- Books and magazines
- Computers, cameras, etc.
- Meals with readers and colleagues
Most of the time, these expenses are made with a business credit card, which I pay in full at the end of the month.
Personal checking
From time-to-time, I move money from the business account to my personal checking account at the local credit union. This process is not automated. (In fact, none of my infrastructure is automated right now, except for paying a couple of bills, which I’ll explain at the end.) To transfer money, I have to write a check to myself and go deposit it.
I have a second checking account at a different credit union, but I rarely use it. I opened this about a year ago because I was intrigued by the chance to earn 5% in a rewards checking account. But the nearest branch is 15 minutes from my house and out of my way. That’s a huge passive barrier to using it. I guess what I should do is just put some cash in there and see if I use it enough to qualify for the bonus interest rate.
High-yield savings
The bulk of my money sits in a high-yield online savings account at ING Direct. Actually, I have multiple accounts at ING, which I manage from a single screen.
When I have money to save, I move it from my credit union to the appropriate savings account. This is done electronically, but it’s not automated. I consider this my main pool of money because it’s where I track my progress as I save toward specific goals. I’ve never actually moved money out of an ING account yet, so I don’t know what that process is like.
Credit and debit cards
I carry four pieces of plastic, each of which has its own use.
First, I carry a personal credit card. I lived for nine years without a personal credit card because I had a history of abusing them. But when Kris and I were preparing to travel overseas, GRS readers recommended obtaining Capital One No Hassle Cash Rewards cards for the trip.
Though I was wary about returning to credit, I signed up. Over the past two years, I’ve used it responsibly, always paying my bill every month, and never buying anything for which I could not pay cash. (Plus the card gives me 1% back on everything I buy!)
I also carry a debit card that is tied to my personal checking account. I use this for any purchase that I cannot (or will not) put on credit. For example, I have a rule that I won’t purchase comic books or videogames on credit, so those expenses go on my debit card.
Finally, I have two business credit cards. The first is a Visa from Wills Fargo. It offers no perks, so I try not to use it. The second is the TrueEarnings Card from Costco and American Express, which offers cash back on a variety of purchases. I try to make all of my business purchases with this card, and I really wish I could use it for personal expenses, like fueling the car.
Retirement accounts
I have two retirement accounts. My Roth IRA is through Sharebuilder. I used to make automatic monthly contributions for dollar-cost averaging. Now I make large lump-sum contributions. (And I’ve considered moving my IRA to Zecco. Can anyone speak to the differences between Zecco and Sharebuilder?)
My main retirement account right now is a Fidelity self-employed 401(k). I love this account because it lets me contribute up to 25% of my income — and I do! Plus it has a huge cap on contributions, which gives me something to aim for. As much as I love Roth IRAs, I’ve been prioritizing this account lately because it makes the most sense for my situation. I make lump-sum contributions to this, too.
Paperless automation
In my dream world, the connections between all of these accounts (and the bills they each pay) would be both automated and paperless. I’ve made some progress toward a paperless personal-finance system, but little of my infrastructure is automated at the moment. I have automated payments to a few of my bills (auto insurance, natural gas), but that’s it.
Because my finances have been in such a state of flux over the past eighteen months, it’s been impossible to automate anything else. One month my income is up; the next month my income is down. We’re making accelerated mortgage payments; then we’re refinancing. I quit the day job. I’m doing dollar-cost averaging into a Roth IRA; then I’m making lump-sum contributions to a 401(k). And so on. Things keep changing!
I can foresee a time toward the end of 2009 when things will have finally settled down. When this happens, I’ll begin to automate the connections between my accounts.
My command center
And how do I track all of this information? I have two primary weapons:
- My Fujitsu ScanSnap S510M document scanner (Windows version)
- Quicken for Mac (Windows version)
I try to sit down once every week (though lately it’s been more like once every three weeks) to scan my financial documents. I convert them to PDF, archive them on my iMac (and to my backup hard drive), and then update all of my bank accounts. I keep tabs on my accounts day-to-day, but I only update Quicken (and QuickBooks for the business) once per week.
Ideally, I would receive only electronic statements. It’s nice that I can convert my paper receipts to PDF, but I’d rather receive them that way in the first place. That’s something to aim for. Also, I do intend to give another shot at using an online money-management tool. I’m going to start with Wesabe, and if that doesn’t meet my needs, I’ll try something else.
Final thoughts
Writing this out makes it seem more complicated than it really is. Things are actually fairly streamlined, with only only a few weaknesses.
- I have two business credit cards. Ideally, I’d have only one. However, American Express is not accepted everywhere that Visa is. This means I have to carry the extra Visa card around to cover the exceptions.
- I have checking accounts at two credit unions. Ideally, I’d use only one. If my main credit union offered rewards checking, this choice would be easy. It has branches conveniently located in all of my main stomping grounds.
- I would like to consolidate my retirement accounts with one provider. This means I’ll probably be moving my Roth IRA from Sharebuilder to Fidelity. The Fidelity self-employed 401(k) is a fantastic product, and I’m not giving it up.
And, of course, I’m eager to automate the connections between these accounts so that I don’t have to think about things. (I’d still review each account every week, of course.)
What about you? What are the key components of your financial infrastructure? Do you have accounts that you would recommend to GRS readers? Is your financial network map simple or complex? Do you have accounts that you never used? Have you automated things? Do you plan to? Do you have suggestions on how I could improve my setup?
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Nice post! I’ll have to draw one of these pictures for myself.
I moved to ING Direct for my primary bank last year — checking and savings. Direct deposit is split (on my employer’s end) between checking and savings, and then bills come out of checking. This was a key thing for me: I get paid once a month, so I rescheduled the due dates of all my bills to be right at the beginning of the month. Once everything has been paid, I transfer a big chunk out (either debt snowball or savings, depending on my current goals) and leave just enough in that account for food and entertainment for the month.
I pay some things automatically — most notably my student loan payments (I get an interest rate bonus for letting them take it directly out of my account). Others I pay with the free bill pay from the site — credit card payments, utilities, rent. (I don’t like trusting other parties with my bank account information, so for variable amounts that I can’t autopay with my debit card #, I’ll usually do it manually from the bank side.) I set up paperless bills for everything, so I just add them to my “bills” label in Gmail as they come in, and then deal with them all at once when I get paid.
I have two credit cards. One has a long history, high limit and low APR, but no rewards. I just paid off the balance I was carrying (finally!), so I went shopping for rewards cards, and ended up with a Discover More. However, they’ve just notified me that they’re changing the rewards from 1% cash back to 0.25% cash back, so I think I’ll be closing that and looking for another. :/
Still have a brick & mortar account, WaMu-now-Chase. I don’t much like being a Chase customer now, but I just use the account for depositing checks, so I haven’t bothered switching to a different local bank or closing the unused savings account. Yet.
I’ve also got a couple of student loans and a couple of retirement accounts (old 401(k), current 403(b)). These I basically ignore, though eventually I want to roll the 401(k) into the 403(b) (or into a Roth, or something). I check up on them once a month, when I update my net worth spreadsheet.
I keep track of the bank accounts and credit cards on Wesabe. They’re not as polished as Mint in some ways, but I like their privacy/data storage policy a lot better, and they have a very responsive support team and a community of very smart and helpful users.
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I’ve tried to read this post several times and I really feel like I get lost every time. So, instead of trying to find some insight in J.D.’s system, I’m going to skip to the end and describe my own.
What are the key components of my financial infrastructure?
1) One checking account with associated ATM/Check card.
2) One online savings account.
3) One 401k account.
4) One brokerage account.
Almost everything is automatic. 401k contributions are automatically deducted from my pay and deposited in my 401k account. The remainder of my check is automatically deposited in my checking account. My bills are almost all (except for my rent) automatically deducted from my checking account. Most actions dealing with the brokerage account are automatic and relate to my employer’s stock vesting, although I do have to conduct trades or sales manually (but I mostly just leave this account alone).
I do manually transfer funds back and forth from checking to savings, but this is mostly just to make me feel good, it doesn’t actually affect my financial position very significantly if I leave funds in one versus the other (I lose a small amount of interest in anything that sits in checking when it could be in savings).
This makes everything very simple, which makes it more likely that nothing will get lost, or fall behind, or cause me to stop working on it because it’s too much of a pain. If I continue going to work, and I pay my rent by the first of the month, my finances all stay current. I don’t *have* to do anything else, except for the occasional extra bill (such as from the DMV for renewing car registration).
To be honest, I have some other accounts and things not listed above, like a business credit card. I didn’t include it because it’s not a “key” component of my finances, and I almost never use it. I’ve only ever actually received a bill for it once, when my work sent me to Germany and I bought a lot of meals and things for which I’d need to be reimbursed. I try to avoid things like this as much as possible, and even if I have the accounts, I have no day-to-day interactions with them.
Personally, I find the simpler the system, the better. Maybe this is why I found J.D.’s description so difficult to read, it’s just a big long list of what must be at least a dozen different (but many wit the same basic purpose) accounts, and I don’t see the benefit of having (for instance) four plastic cards for purchasing things.
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@db (comment #25) -
You can have more than one 401(k) plan, much like you can have multiple IRAs, just be sure you don’t exceed the annual statutory contribution limits (easily found at the IRS website).
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I also use USAA and love them. I use their bill pay and have several accounts: 2 checking, 3 savings, my main credit card, and my renter’s & auto insurance are all there.
I have opted NOT to automate a lot of things, though. My retirement savings are deducted pre-tax, and the balance is direct deposited to one of my checking accounts. After that I prefer to manually transfer funds around. I like recording things as they come & go, but I am SUPER low tech: I keep an email folder and send myself twice-monthly accountings of my transfers. I also use pen & paper to track my spending.
I love having a separate checking account for bills. I transfer in half of my monthly needs each paycheck, and never sweat my rent or other bills – the money’s there by mid-month. I pay my credit card in full, and manage my bills there too.
I don’t trust companies to correctly charge me, so Netflix is the only thing that auto-charges to my credit card (because I didn’t see any other option).
It works for me, but if I were sharing money with someone, I suspect my system would be unpopular
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Re: Courtney says:
24 March 2009 at 8:40 am
“…for some reason ING won’t even report it to your bank until two business days later.”
Courtney, Banks work on “business days”, not on hours. Thus, The ING transfer is effective “to start” ON the business day it is initiated. (In this case the 24th) The ING disclosure will have all this info one needs to be aware of.
So, what happens is they extract the money at the end of the business day in question, and it goes via ACH (automated clearing house) to the bank in question for receipt and processing the FOLLOWING business day (the 25th, at a minimum). Smaller local banks may work off of ACH from a larger regional bank, adding another business day to the actual receipt of credit.
No offense, but if you want same business day servicing, you need to request and pay a wire-transfer fee.
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J.D., several people have already mentioned this, but I REALLY think you should try YNAB (You Need a Budget). It is specifically designed to deal with cash flow AND irregular income (using a unique approach based of prior’s month’s income…).
Would be a good topic for a post, actually: “Long time Quicken user J.D. tries YNAB”
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My husband’s employer stops me from fully automating everything. They only got direct deposit in 2008, and the retirement stuff is still carved in stone tablets.
An intentional inconvenience is my credit union account linked to my PayPal account. I’ve had so many issues with those slimeballs at PayPal, I don’t trust them with even a separate account at my regular bank.
I’d love to put all our regular bills (especially utilities) on our credit cards, but it seems to still be the norm to charge you a fee for doing so.
I will never do auto-pay, though. I’ve heard too many horror stories of double billing, changed bill dates causing overdrafts, and on and on.
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I must be in the minority. I have a TON of accounts all at one CU. Each account is a bucket of money for a specific goal –
- taxable investing (automatic investment comes out of there)
- roth (again the roth pulls from this account)
- escrow (mortgage insurance, taxes, car insurance, life insurance all pulls from here)
- mortgage
- charity
- savings (bills and living expenses always go the credit card and I pay it from the savings monthly)
- checking (whatever is left over)
I’ve used this method for many years. I guess mvelopes or mint can also do the bucketting for you, but my method is free and visible each time I go online to view my accounts.
And my CU allows me to set up automatic transfers online, so I have full control of it. So I get paid into my checking via direct deposit and whooosh, my automatic transfers kick in and all of my money scatters to the respective accounts. Then on the given day, the external transfers pull the mortgage, roth, mortgage insurance, etc, and the money’s always there. And I can always see what I have in my checking which is my funny money. Right now = $1, so no fun until payday.
Essentially, whatever is left in checking is my funny money. Most bills go to my credit card, and those amounts are paid out of my charity and savings accounts as appropriate (bills from savings – tithe and one time donations from charity).
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#6 Ben:
I’m with you.. USAA is the shiz. Customer service is superb, too.
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@Liz #44
My recommendation on old 401ks is to roll them into one IRA at a brokerage like fidelity. This is what I have done with one of mine (need to do the other, but I’m so dang mad at how low the balance is, I’m just not ready to lock in the losses…).
I would NOT roll them to my current employer because you have unlimited investment choices at a brokerage house whereas your current employer might have 20 investment options, tops.
Another benefit to rolling to an IRA at a brokerage house is that in 2010, the IRS laws change and you will be able to convert all or part of that IRA money to a Roth. There is no limit on the dollar amount you can convert. So, depending on your plans long term, you have an opportunity to bulk up a huge balance in a Roth where otherwise you would be limited to the $5K/year Roth contribution. It’s an opportunity, albeit one that may or may not matter to you.
Just my 2 cents.
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I don’t understand the obsession with wanting to get electronic statements *at all*. A statement on paper is irrevocable and indisputable proof you have (paid) amount X on item or account Y.
An electronic statement of anything is neither irrevocable nor indisputable, not to mention *highly* volatile. These are not properties one is looking for in evidence.
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I absolutely love your blog, thank you. It’s helped my wife and I get 2 payments away from becoming debt free! We’ll be there in May.
When it comes to online money management, I highly recommend MINT.COM. It’s a fantastic budgeting and expense tracking tool that let’s you view your financial activity in comparison to others in your area and across the country, by type of expense. This can help you identify red flags, and has the psychological benefit of seeing where you spend LESS than others as well.
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Just a quick note…I bet the open source tool FreeMind would work great for laying this out if you didn’t want to draw anything by hand.
You can check it out here: http://freemind.sourceforge.net/
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@Mrten:
A paper statement is no more irrevocable than an electronic one. You can “revoke” the electronic one by stealing or destroying my personal computer. You can revoke the paper one by by stealing or destroying my filing cabinet.
Same goes for indisputability: Certainly you can fake an electronic statement using tools like photoshop. You can fake a paper statement by using tools like photoshop and a printer.
Electronic records *may* be slightly more susceptible to loss than paper ones if you don’t back them up, but paper documents suffer the same problems due to fire, flood, misplacing them, etc.
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How competitive are the brokerage costs for INGdirect’s sharebuilder program. I am always concerned about brokerage costs and fees with my accounts. For instance, with scottrade $7 to buy and $7 to sell on a $500 investment means I am already down 2.8%…add inflation, add taxes…yikes! How does INGdirect rate compared to say a Vanguard?
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@Tyler: I can revoke your electronic statement simply by issuing a new one with fabricated data, there is no need for elaborate burglaries. How do you prove that the electronic statements you own have not been tampered with? You cannot. This is not the case with paper statements, issued by a bank on paper from a bank, printed with inks from a bank.
(Perhaps I should have used the word ‘non-repudiation’, forgive me, for english is not my native language.)
Undetectable -by a court of law in case of a dispute- faking of a printed (bank-)statement is *orders of magnitude* more difficult than undetectable faking of electronic statements (until electronic statements are cryptographically signed, of course).
More importantly, in the case that a dispute rises *you* have the paper copy and it is up to the *other side* to prove that your paper copy is a fake. This is expensive in the case of paper statements, but in case of electronic statements where there are two conflicting statements it might even be impossible to state either way. Which outcome would you prefer?
And, lastly, given the same care in organizing, the chances of having your paper statements become unreadable in general are again orders of magnitude smaller then the chance that electronic statements become unreadable (hard disks fail, backups fail, grey matter fails, hard disks make bit-errors, memory makes bit-errors, etc, etc).
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When I first started reading GRS and Wisebread and other US blogs, I was bemused about Americans using cheques so much. I only know one person that has a cheque book: online banking is used instead. (I’m Australian.) I wonder why there’s such a difference between the two countries…
Re: accounts, I’ve just finished simplifying mine. I’ve got a transaction account and an online savings account at a credit union, plus an ING account and a Virgin Super superannuation account (erm, I guess equivalent to a 401K?). The transaction account has a Visa Debit card so I can buy things online. I keep my emergency fund and short-term savings in the credit union savings account, as it’s handy, as a freelancer, to be able to instantly transfer money into the transaction account if I need it. The ING account holds the income tax I put aside for my quarterly payments, and “serious” savings (house deposit money). The Virgin super is an index fund.
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@Courtney #34 Just wanted to pipe in to let you know how the process works with ING and transfering money. I work for ING so the way that it works is we always tell customers that it takes 2-3 business days to transfer money. Let’s say you request a transfer on Monday at 6am to leave ING to go to your linked account. ING will not process that request until end of business (which for our bank is 10PM CST to accommodate the folks on the West Coast)Processing usually starts a bit after midnight to be ready to send to the Federal Reserve for the ACH transfer the following morning. The ACH bundles all the requests for various banks and has it available for “pick up” by all the banks around mid afternoon(in this example on Tuesday). They then post after their close of business and have it ready for you to see or retrieve the following day (2nd business day, in this example Wed morning) If this is done on the weekend or on Friday it will not start the process until Monday thus delaying the process by a couple of days. I hope this clarifies how the transfer works, most banks use this same system but the process time may be accelerated if the bank has a close of business at 3pm so they can get everything to the Fed Res before the Feds close of business on that day.
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You can get an American Express TrueEarnings card for personal expenses. It’s great, we got $160 rebate this year. We only use it for gas, dining out, travel, and costco purchases. It more than pays for the costco membership.
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@Mrten: You can’t revoke my electronic statement simply by issuing a new one. If you issue a new one, and I have my copy of the original, then we now have two conflicting electronic statements, either (or neither) of which could be the original.
Cryptographically signing bank statements is trivial and can be done with freely available technology today. The chances of paper vs. disk failing are situational and I think you just made up your “orders of magnitude” statistic. Can you show me the source for that?
The issue of a court of law being able to detect fraud in my banking documents is moot, anyway. If I have faked my own documents, I know whether they’re authentic or not. If the bank has faked their (supposedly original) documents after the fact, to make it look like mine were phony, then they can fake them with the same paper and the same ink that they used when they printed my original. Further, if I think a bank might do this sort of thing, I probably shouldn’t trust them with my cash, anyway. And if they would do such a thing, there are probably easier ways for them to defraud me.
Regardless of the difficulty of proving the originality of banking documents, it’s a process that’s almost never necessary. I have never in my life been asked to prove the authenticity of a document provided to anyone. Almost everyone accepts faxed copies of every document for every purpose. Even if they don’t, they accept anything that *looks like* an original, they certainly don’t verify the type of ink it was printed with. Certainly I could conceive of the case where I could have to prove the authenticity of a document in court, but the chances of it actually happening to me seem to be astronomically small. The inconvenience of keeping paper copies of all this information far outweighs (in my, and many other people’s opinions) the 1 in 100,000 (or some other very low chance) that someone will sue me and the format of my documents will cause me to lose the case.
Maybe 1 in 100,000 seems like an unreasonable risk for you. That’s OK, and if you want to keep paper documents to mitigate that risk, no one’s going to stop you. However, this seems like a very *small* risk to someone like me, and I’m OK taking it. Just for comparison’s sake, I have a greater than 1 in 250 chance of being killed in a car accident. That’s 400 times more likely than the (admittedly fabricated) chance of being sued and losing due to this particular circumstance, and the outcome is far worse, as well.
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J.D., I thought this was a great post. To me, divulging how you organize your finances truly makes your blog great. Pardon the pun, but it really does make it “personal” and I really think by doing that draws many of your readers in. Also, to all of you USAA people, stop making me jealous because I always hear how great it is and that I cannot get in because I’m just a civilian.
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This gave me a whole new idea when I work with clients trying to organize the flow of paperwork and money.
My own is some what similar. I like to keep a minimum balance in a checking account and transfer money to cover my online payments. I charge everyday monthly bills to my credit credit and receive 1% cash back. I don’t automate these monthly charges, because I want to monitor the amount being charged to the card.
I also wanted to further comment on #18 for Paul’s question on a simulation software. The best I have seen, so far, is called Life Balance Sheet. It is a copy right product that is only available through Guardian Insurance agents. Some agents may offer the software free as part of their financial planning package. This software is online and the agent as well as the customer has access to it.
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I have a similar system. I have a Business checking account, which does not have a card, and receives direct deposit from my employer. It doles out payments from there, which then transfers the rest to my Personal checking account. I charge my daily life to my personal checking account, like groceries, gas, prescription refills,…etc. My budget has been super tight recently to pay for the mortgage on a rental property that has no tenants (long story), plus my own rent, plus utilities for both items. So to try to keep organized, I fill in “notes” for each payday event on my MS Outlook. I fill in all the payments I must make, and I know exactly how much I have left to spend for the next 3-5 pay periods. I’ve also come to the habit of paying half of my utility bills from every paycheck electronically, so if for some reason I can’t pay one time, eventually it’ll get paid off.
I guess this all sounds really slim, but planning all my money in MS Outlook helps me to be extremely organized about everything financial-related in my life.
My father introduced the habit of keeping every receipt I ever receive, and as a result, I have receipts filed away since 2005. I have yet to go through them and save the ones I use for when I do my taxes. But I wish I could hire a data entry clerk. (And a personal assistant for that matter too)
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JD,
Love the blog. I’ve only been in the big scary “real world” for about year now and your guidance has inspired me and helped me start out on the right track.
The tool that has KEPT me on the right track is Finicity Money Manager (formerly Mvelopes).
After giving MS Money, Quicken, and Mint the old college try (literally), I was ready to go to Excel. Then I found Finicity.
With Finicity, instead of looking back at how you spent the money you had, you look at the money you have and decide how you’re going to spend it in the future. It makes it unnecessary to have separate accounts for each of your savings goals, since all of your savings are split into envelopes. When you want to allocate money to something else, it’s just a simple drag and drop in the UI.
It’s well worth giving it a try with the 30-day free trial. After that it’s around $9 a month depending on how many months you buy at once. Well worth it in my opinion.
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@Diane #72 Thanks, I’ll keep an eye out for a Guardian office, and may stop in to talk with the salesperson.
@Trynian #28 Thanks, I’ve written flexibleretirementplanner.com down, and will eventually go play with it. But, since it doesn’t even do college planning how’s it going to do everything my 42-worksheet Excel file does (and more!)?
I’m telling you there’s a market for software that the financially literate can use to enter ALL their financial data in – and then play ‘what ifs’. Even if it’s an adjunct to a NAPFA planner’s practice, I’d be willing to discuss it.
I wonder why nobody on this site resonated off NAPFA advisors? Aren’t there any of you using one?
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JD,
Do you find that Quicken for MAC works well? My hard drive crashed and I’m contemplating a MAC but I’ve read some horror stories about Quicken on a MAC.
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Instead of scanning documents, it’s so much quicker and cheaper to use cutepdf or primopdf. They’re freeeeee!
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Wells Fargo gives you rewards on the personal debit card for free if you have a PMA account and it’s $12.50 for the business debit card if you have an expanded business account.
If you have a PMA account, Wells Fargo gives you 100 free free trades a year with a linked investment account. It’s a pretty good deal if you trade and I think their IRAs are also annual fee free.
May be worth looking into.
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We are partly automated. I have a primary checking acct with a major us bank. Both me and my wife’s paychecks are deposited here.
From there, we have TEN separate ING accounts for savings activities from emergency to vacation to life insurance to a parking place for money that will later be moved to the stock market in larger lump sums. Movements into all of these ten accounts are automated.
401k is auto-deducted at work before the paycheck ever leaves the building.
One of the ten ING accts links to Prosper.com, where I have a P2P lending portfolio on autopilot. I am slowly liquidating this position. Each weekday morning, I log in and transfer the cash balance from Prosper to ING. I also have a Prosper loan. Prosper automatically draws about $70/month from this account.
This same account also is linked to Firstrade. I looked at Zecco but did not want to go with a company whose business model seemed to make them no $$$. I wanted stability, and Firstrade got good ratings. My experience there has been excellent.
We pay our mortgage through auto-draft, but every other bill I pay online, but manually. I like to PUSH money out from my accounts rather than have it pulled. I also do not trust AT&T.
I should probably have a diagram.
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JD:
You should consider creating a limited liability company (LLC) for your company. This would separate the assets of GRS from your personal assets.
I hope it never happens, but if someone follows your advice and suffers a bad outcome, they might try to sue you. I know you have a disclaimer at the bottom of your webpage, but your blog is relatively prominent, and it might be considered to be somewhat authoritative, nonetheless. If GRS was an LLC, then you would only be (potentially) liable for its assets and not your personal assets (like your house).
If you set up an LLC, you should have a separate checking account for your business and your for your personal expenses. The purpose of the LLC is to create a business entity, but then you are responsible for keeping the company assets separate — no co-mingling of funds.
It’s not too hard, and in most states, you can do it online.
Best wishes,
Helen
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