Starting a Roth IRA is one of the easiest — and best — steps you can take to save for retirement. I know I’ve written a lot about the Roth IRA in the past, but I still get questions all the time. People find them intimidating. For example, Lynn wrote last week:
I’m a 36-year-old single mother of two. I want to start investing for my future, but I am so overwhelmed by all the information. I was wondering if you could give me some advice on my best options for a Roth IRA. I am a school teacher and earn $41,000 per year.
I am going to do more research, but I would appreciate some advice from someone who already has expertise in this area. I am not sure what I need to start a Roth IRA, or who I should go with. I don’t know much about mutual funds or anything of that sort, so any help and advice would be appreciated.
Let’s clear things up: A Roth IRA does not need to be confusing. In fact, a Roth IRA is actually fairly easy to understand.
Roth IRA basics
The Roth IRA is an individual retirement arrangement: It lets you save and invest for your future. An IRA is simply a holding account. It’s a label. When you own a Roth IRA, it contains nothing. It’s like a bucket, a place for you to put things. (Most people think of an IRA as an individual retirement account, which is fine, but it’s actually an “arrangement”.)
The things you put in your bucket are investments. You might, for example, buy a stock to put in your retirement account. Or maybe government bonds. Or certificates of deposit. The important thing to understand is that a Roth IRA is not an investment — it’s a place to put investments.
With many retirement accounts — such as 401(k)s and traditional IRAs — you contribute pre-tax money and are taxed when you take the money out during retirement. Because they work with after-tax money, earnings from a Roth IRA can be withdrawn tax-free at retirement.
Roth IRA rules and requirements
Because Roth IRAs are meant to encourage ordinary people to save for retirement, not everyone qualifies for them. If you do qualify, you can contribute up to $5,000 to your Roth IRA every year. If you’re 50 or over, you can contribute $6,000.
Who qualifies? Nearly everyone. However:
- If your tax filing status is single and you earn more than $105,000 per year, your contributions are restricted.
- If you’re married filing jointly, your contributions are limited if your household earns more than $160,000 per year.
You can use a Roth IRA even if you have a 401(k) or other retirement plan, but you must make your contributions by the tax deadline each year. (So, you have until 15 April 2010 to make your Roth IRA contribution for this year.)
The rules are a little more complex than that, but those are the basics. If you need more info, take a look at the resources listed at the end of this article.
Where to open a Roth IRA
Deciding where to start your Roth IRA is the most difficult part of the process. Many financial institutions offer IRAs. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses. Don’t fret about finding the perfect match — find a good match and then get started.
To make things simple, here are three big companies that provide Roth IRAs (though these are by no means your only options):
Fidelity Investments offers a no-fee IRA. There’s a $2,500 minimum initial investment, but this is waived if you commit to $200/month automatic contributions. They offer 4,600 mutual funds, about a quarter of which have no transaction fee. In short, you can open a no-cost IRA at Fidelity with a $200 starting investment if you invest in mutual funds and you agree to contribute $200/month. Apply for a Roth IRA with Fidelity.
It’s also possible to open a no-cost Roth IRA at The Vanguard Group if you elect to receive electronic statements. Otherwise, a $20 annual fee is charged until your Roth IRA balance is over $10,000. Your minimum to get started is $3,000 — except that you can start with just $1,000 in the company’s STAR fund. (The STAR fund is an mutual fund of mutual funds, a safe choice for beginners.) Additional contributions require a minimum of $100 unless you use their Automatic Investment Plan, in which case the minimum is $50. There are no fees to purchase the STAR fund. Start a Roth IRA at Vanguard.
T. Rowe Price charges $10/year for Roth IRA accounts until you have a balance above $5,000, after which there is no fee. You need $1,000 to open your IRA, but this minimum goes away if you sign up to contribute at least $50/month with the Automatic Asset Builder. There are no sales fees or commissions to invest this money in T. Rowe Price mutual funds. Open an IRA at T. Rowe Price.
Opening a Roth IRA is easy. You’ll need some minimal bank account info and about 30-60 minutes of free time. If you’ve ever filled out a job application or applied for a credit card, you can certainly open a Roth IRA. Once you’ve completed your application, you can transfer money to the account. It might have to sit in a money market fund until you have enough saved to buy your first mutual fund, but that’s okay. You’re developing the saving habit!
Which investments to choose
Here’s where I cop out. I’m not a financial adviser. I don’t know your goals or risk tolerance. I can’t tell you were to invest.
And to be honest, where you invest doesn’t matter nearly as much as the fact that you do invest. To get some ideas, browse through the investing archives here at Get Rich Slowly. (Maybe start with these “lazy portfolios”.)
If you’re really stressed, pick a target-date fund that most closely matches the year you’ll retire. This probably isn’t the best option, but it’s fine. Just use it while you get in the habit of making contributions. You can always switch the money to something more appropriate later.
Learning more about the Roth IRA
In 2007, I ran a four-part series exploring the benefits of a Roth IRA. If you need more info about these accounts — or if you have questions — you should start here first:
- Part one: What is a Roth IRA and why should you care?
- Part two: How to start a Roth IRA and where to do it
- Part three: Which investments are best for a Roth IRA?
- Part four: Questions and answers about Roth IRAs
I’ve revised these articles and compiled them into a free e-book called The Get Rich Slowly Guide to Roth IRAs (518kb PDF). (Note that this e-book was produced in April 2008, so some of the info is a little out of date, especially about Zecco.) And if you want the official word on the subject, check out IRS publication 590, which is all about IRAs.
Now’s the part where you can tell Lynn how easy it is to set up a Roth IRA. (And share what sort of things you’ve invested in.) My own Roth IRA started with stupid stock picks (Countrywide, The Sharper Image) and has moved toward index funds. I’m all about making things easy right now!
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Confession – I am a CFO. We changed our 401k plan a couple of years ago to allow for Roth 401k contributions. I am still doing the traditional (not Roth) 401k.
What can I say, I LOVE the current tax deduction, and I have a feeling that by the time I retire, this country will move more towards consumption based taxes rather than higher income taxes to pay the bills.
Also, I’m one of those Dave Ramsey types who puts 15% towards retirement, has a college fund going for our son, and tries to pay off the mortgage as quickly as I can with anything extra we have at the end of each month (at the risk of losing the tax deduction, but oh well – I hate debt).
I’d be curious to read a follow up post from JD on why it makes so much more sense to max a Roth 401k deduction instead of maxing a traditional 401k deduction.
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Greg, some of us do both. Actually, on this kind of blog I’d bet lots of people do both.
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@Greg
If you are a highly compensated CFO the current tax deduction may well be better! No one can tell you for sure as there are a lot of variables: Will tax rates increase, or tax brackets change? Will you have enough income to be in the same tax bracket? If you are in the same tax bracket the math works out the same for a current tax deduction vs. future tax free. Check out:
http://badmoneyadvice.com/2009/08/why-are-roth-iras-so-confusing.html
Because of the uncertainty it makes some sense to have some of both accounts to give you flexibility in the future.
-Rick Francis
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@Ever – Pay off your debts first. If you do that, you’ll have increased cash flow for investing later. You may miss out on some gains, you may miss out on some losses, but either way having your debts paid off makes life a lot easier.
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Okay, Mike, now you have me a little concerned. This is what I have:
VBLTX Vanguard Bd Index Fd Inc Long Term Portfolio
VFINX Vanguard Index Tr S&P 500 Portfolio
Is there another version of these?
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Suzanne:
Here’s a list of Vanguard’s ETFs.
BLV is the ETF version of VBLTX. If you buy that one, you’ll only have to pay the $4.95 commission. And your annual expense ratio will only be 0.14% instead of 0.22%.
Vanguard does not have an ETF version of their S&P 500 index fund. You might want to try VTI (their ETF that tracks the total U.S. stock market) instead. Or, if you want to stick with something tracking the S&P 500, you might want to try iShares’ ETF with ticker IVV.
In case it’s helpful, here’s a list of the lowest-cost ETFs I’ve found for each asset class.
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Mike, I think I will have to check out your blog. Thanks for the info!
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No problem. Happy to help.
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I converted my traditional Roth to an IRA last year. I took the hit on taxes, but in the long run, it will probably benefit me greatly.
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Ever #31,
Don’t worry so much about the capital gains tax. Short term CG is the same as your Ordinary Tax Rate. Hold them longer than a year and the Long Term rate drops, in some cases substantially.
Google is my friend: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capital_gains_tax_in_the_United_States
Disclaimer: I am not a tax guy.
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I have an old 401k with some money in it (more than the 5k yearly contribution limit). Id like to take this money and change it over to a Roth IRA. What is the easiest way to do this? I have read in many places that I need to roll it into an IRA – then convert the IRA to Roth IRA. I know that I will have to pay taxes on the money, but I’d like to just take it out of the total amount before depositing the rest. Does anyone have any advice on this? Are there time limits that I am bound to?
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J.D.- could you address sometime financial info for seniors. My Mom(67 yrs old) is now loving your site as much as myself. She is making it on social security because she has always been very frugal. She has $10,000 in a savings acct that was back in the 90′s part of a Roth fund before the company she was working for folded up and left for Mexico. She does not know what to do with it and is very conservative, not a risk taker at all. She wants to invest it somewhere without paying too much in taxes. Any suggestions for a situation like this would be very welcome.
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I have an extremely noob question. I opened a Roth IRA at T Rowe Price several months ago at the persistence of this blog and other articles. There is not much in it as I am 19 years old and a broke college student working for little pay. Anyway I don’t understand how I can choose the mutual fund I want to put my money in on the website at least. I chose(i think?) TRRNX(T Rowe Price’s 2055 Retirement Fund). Is this fine to leave my low monthly contributions in for a while? or should I switch(can i?) to a few wisely picked mutual funds? Anyhow know how to do it on the website aswell?
-thank you,
from a very uninformed person.
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I have a question about the timing of contributions. I understand that I could contribute to my 2009 Roth until April 15 2010. So do I get to pick which year contributions in Jan, Feb, and Mar of 2010 go to? Could I designate that my regular monthly additions go to 2010 and make a lump sum payment to fully fund my 2009? Could I make one lump sum contribution of $10,000 and fully fund both years in the spring of 2010? How does this work? I’d like to open a fund when a CD matures in a few weeks.
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The way I understand it, you can fund 2009 IRAs up until April 15, 2010; Vanguard’s form for purchasing shares in your IRA has a box to check to show what year you intend to apply the contribution to.
On a slightly different tack, I have the impression that a Roth is more advantageous to your heirs than a regular IRA, should you die with some money left. The heir’s tax gouge on a regular IRA is pretty large; because you’ve already paid the tax on the money in the Roth, your heirs don’t have to pony up as much cash when they inherit.
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I would like to offer a helpful website:
http://www.401khoax.com/
Maybe its time do something different. I believe the amount of taxes we pay as a percentage of income must increase due to recent shift to entitlement philosophy. Consumption tax is a great dream and I am a big fan but if we want to be real we have to admit that this has not happened for 100+ years and the IRS base is so strong we will NOT see this change in our lifetime.
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I have a question I have fifty thousand dollars I want to invest but I’m scared to take a risk with the stocks market because of all the fruad going on. Plenty of people have become rich without investing but simply by working harder getting more jobs and saving as much ad possible and opening profitable businesss which brings on triple the income . I’m wondering should I be a risk taker and play the stock market and risk losing my finances hence if another bernie madoffs scam happens or should I just continue to work hard save and ignore the stock market in fear of losing my profits like many uneducated ppl playing the stock market game. Any suggestions?
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nice rundown of the basics!
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@ptrilla:
You can avoid investing in a fraudulent fund a la Madoff by doing your homework. You want to check out the fund’s past performance, the fund’s fees and watch out for anything that sounds too good to be true.
It’s true that stocks are riskier than bonds and cash. But investing in a mix of stocks and bonds is often the best bet for a long-term retirement portfolio. Low-fee index funds from reputable firms like Vanguard are a good place to start.
Hope this helps,
Kristen
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I have recently opened my IRA at Schwab. They have new low costs on their index funds. I think mine is sitting in an S&P 500 with about .09% costs. There are also really low barriers of entry (I’m at 200/month). A few people I know worry about whether or not the costs will stay low, but it’s better to get going and perfect things later than wait for perfect I think.
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If she’s a teacher here in Oregon she might not get a tax break from a Roth IRA because of PERS. She should definitely check first!
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Thank you again for prompting me to open a Roth IRA. I opened the T. Rowe Price one mentioned in 2007 after the original 4 part series on Roth IRA’s came out. It is very easy to open. I went with an Equity Index fund. T. Rowe has been very easy to work with and sends auto-reminders if you wish about making sure you have the full contribution value by April 15 each year.
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Are you sure that it’s an arrangement? I was taking your word for it until I was going around the IRS site and came upon an explanation of SIMPLE IRAs. http://www.irs.gov/retirement/article/0,,id=111420,00.html
There, the A is for account or annuity. I don’t think that the IRS is wrong…
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Hi,
I want to say thank you for this article. It helped me quite a bit and I started a Roth IRA at Vanguard this morning. I am 24, put $1k into their 2055 retirement fund (i figure it’s an easy place to start) and should be putting in $200+/month.
As a note – Vanguard’s fees are $20/fund under $10k in an account, not just $20 for an account. So 10 $1k funds = $200 annually. This is still waived with electronic statements.
Thank you again!
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