On the other hand, as a banker, here’s my two cents on internet car sales. Take CASH ONLY. If someone is wanting to pay with money orders or even a cashier’s check, wait until those things clear the bank before you deliver that car, no matter how much the buyer gripes. We’ve seen so many scams and counterfeit money orders and cashier’s checks it would make your head spin. One favorite ploy is “Oh, I made the cashier’s check out for too much money. Please send me the difference back”–only the check was never good in the first place, and now the scammer has both your car AND the extra money you sent back to him, trying to be honest. Seller beware!!!

Dealing with friends, family or acquaintances has the huge upside benefit of not having to worry that you are getting scammed with a fake check. You might even be able to take a personal check and the transaction will be a lot lower stress than meeting a stranger and having to develop enough trust to sell the car.

I sold a car to a co-worker and it worked out well for everyone. I got it for more than trade in value, he got it for less than retail and we were able to get the deal notarized and set in about 15 minutes, since there are a few notaries that work in my office.

I have flown to buy a car (my current car), and my ex bought one off eBay years ago and also flew to pick it up and drive it back.

It works better for “rare” cars (not the ones you’re probably picturing in your head, but unusual color combinations or used cars in excellent condition where they don’t make a newer version of that model any more.)

-Erica

When I sold my house, I posted in the newspaper etc. which cost several hundred dollars, and it turned out I got my buyer from Craigslist. I could have saved a nice bit of money if I only advertised for free first, then ramped up the advertising if needed. I just thought when selling a house that you pretty much had to post in the newspaper to reach most buyers. Turns out that may not be true. I was not even in an urban/metropolitan area, but a rural area where one wouldn’t think that Craigslist was a major source.

Last car I sold I used Craigslist. It was basically an easy transaction, except that I hadn’t done it in so long, I forgot to get some sort of receipt put together for the buyer and myself, and my town kept harassing me to continue to pay taxes on the car for about a year after that because I could not “prove” I had sold it. So that is my only warning for first time car sellers.

p.s. I would post everywhere you can post for FREE first, then give it about 2 weeks, and then post in places you have to pay if necessary.

When I sold my house, I posted in the newspaper etc. which cost several hundred dollars, and it turned out I got my buyer from Craigslist. I could have saved a nice bit of money if I only advertised for free first, then ramped up the advertising if needed. I just thought when selling a house that you pretty much had to post in the newspaper to reach most buyers. Turns out that may not be true. I was not even in an urban/metropolitan area, but a rural area where one wouldn’t think that Craigslist was a major source.

In 2009, I sold a 2007 Acura TL Type S on AutoTrader.com and received more than my fair share of legitimate, serious responses. The car was sold one day after it was listed online. The buyers drove up to Berkeley from Bakersfield (4 hour drive) and paid cash (you can imagine how much money that was) and didn’t get a penny less than the KBB asking price.

You do have to pay to list on AutoTrader.com, but it was well worth it.

In 2009, I sold a 2007 Acura TL Type S on AutoTrader.com and received more than my fair share of legitimate, serious responses. The car was sold one day after it was listed online. The buyers drove up to Berkeley from Bakersfield (4 hour drive) and paid cash (you can imagine how much money that was) and didn’t get a penny less than the KBB asking price.

You do have to pay to list on AutoTrader.com, but it was well worth it.

I’ve sold three cars – 1 with Thrifty Nickel (classifieds paper) and 2 with Craigslist. I would highly recommend Craigslist. You’ll get the deal you’re looking for without the hassle of delivery anywhere…your buyers can meet you and test drive and pay in cash. Yep, Craigslist is the only place I’d sell now.

BTW, the Thrifty Nickel car took 3 weeks to sell. The two Craigslist cars all sold within 2 days.

I would agree that CL and other services turn up a lot of scammers. Do what CL says on every page, and deal locally and in CASH. Or alternatively if you go for the cashier’s check, have it drawn at the bank in front of your eyes, as others have indicated.

Another thing regarding this family member you are helping — are they available to complete the sale? If they are not, be sure to get the details worked out prior to making the sale to someone else. As a buyer, showing up to someone’s house to find out that the seller is “selling it for the wife’s cousin, who is backpacking through Europe right now so he can’t sign over the title” would set off alarm bells in my head. If he’s present to sign it over, then this isn’t a big deal at all.

I did buy one car on E-Bay, only to have the seller back out. The car I did buy was listed on E-Bay, but didn’t go for the reserve, so I contacted the seller and negotiated something.

When listing the car be sure to price it fairly – really examine what other cars are going for, especially considering the mileage. And be thorough in describing the car. You don’t want to come off as making it sound too good to be true. People seem to be willing to accept defects as long as their disclosed.

Another truck I had I felt would only last another year or so. This one was posted on Craiglist for $300 and sold in 24 hours. We also sold our house on Craiglist!

I’m getting interested in Craigslist, and I’ve always stayed away from ebay because I’m not one to bid and spend a lot of time purchasing an item.

We ended up posting it on Craigslist, and after about a month, someone drove from 8 hours away to pay the same amount, in cash, as we “sold” it for on eBay.