Rebalancing in Real Life, Part II: Reading and Research
Published on - April 25th, 2011 (by J.D. Roth) Last week, I mentioned that I’ve begun the process of rebalancing my investment portfolio. When I opened my accounts with Fidelity Investments in 2009, I chose an asset allocation (though I can’t remember why). Because my investments have grown over the past two years, and because I think some of my former choices are goofy, I need to move some money around.
Right now, my investments are allocated like this:
- 5.08% in Fidelity Canada (FICDX)
- 5.41% in Fidelity Latin America (FLATX)
- 9.45% in Fidelity Spartan International Index (FSIIX)
- 11.69% in Fidelity Spartan Extended Market Index (FSEMX)
- 18.16% in Fidelity Select Energy (FSENX)
- 5.28% in Fidelity Real Estate Income (FRIFX)
- 7.55% in Fidelity Four-in-One Index (FFNOX)
- 37.39% in various bonds and bond funds
I’m on a quest to find an asset allocation that makes more sense for me. When I do, I’ll rebalance my portfolio.
Meeting with Fidelity
Once I decided it was time to rebalance my portfolio, I made an appointment with my contact at Fidelity. About ten days ago, he and I spent an hour going over my investments.
My contact — let’s call him Greg — is very careful not to give me investment advice. (I think perhaps he’s not allowed.) Instead, he asks me leading questions. He’s almost like an investment psychologist. He wants me to think about why I’m making certain choices. (I really like this, and it’s one of the reasons I haven’t switched from Fidelity.)
For instance, the first thing Greg did last week was to print out a chart of my asset allocation. “Does anything seem strange about this?” he asked.
“Well, it is a little odd that I have more than 18% of my portfolio in energy stocks,” I said. “That seems crazy.”
Greg kept a poker face. “Some might call it…imprudent,” he said. “If you think asset allocation is important, you have to follow it. You can’t be circumventing it by dumping 18% into energy stocks.”
I had a copy of Your Money: The Missing Manual with me. (I carry it with me all the time. It’s a constant reference.) Greg pointed to it. “What kind of investments do you recommend in your book?” he asked.
“Well, I like index funds,” I said. “They have low costs and good returns over the long term.”
“And how much of your portfolio is index funds now?” he asked.
I did some quick math. “Uh? 20%? 30%?” I said. Greg and I spent the next hour discussing how some of my choices were circumventing my stated goals. “Sometimes,” I said, “there’s what I know I should do, and then there’s what I’m actually doing.”
Greg and I talked about diversification. We talked about whether it’s a good idea for me to have so much invested in bonds. (I want to put my age in bonds — so, 42% right now.) Greg asked me to think about why I’m picking this number.
Greg pointed out that if I’m being conservative with so much of my money, then I need to be more aggressive with the rest of it if I want to meet my goal of retiring early. “Think of your money in bonds as the cash you’ll need early in your retirement — in ten years, maybe — and the money in stocks as the money you’ll need later in retirement,” he said.
Greg also helped me to see the tax consequences of rebalancing. I can do some rebalancing by contributing new money. But some of it’s going to have to come from selling gainers and buying losers. This not only incurs transaction costs; it will also spark long-term capital gains taxes. (I know that I shouldn’t make investment decisions based on taxes, but it still hurts, you know?)
In the end, Greg and I agreed to meet again on May 2nd. At that time, I hope to have a plan. And I hope to use that plan to develop a new asset allocation.
Mental accounting
After meeting with Greg, I went home and began to read. All last week, while I should have been writing about money, I was reading about it instead. I re-read bits of The Four Pillars of Investing [my review]. I scanned The Quiet Millionaire [my review]. I brushed up on Fail-Safe Investing [my review].
I also read my own advice on asset allocation and rebalancing. I thought about what my goals are and how I want my investments to help me reach them. I played with asset allocation calculators online.
In order to retire early, I have to be moderately aggressive with my investments. But — and this is where things get complicated — my secondary goal is capital preservation. I don’t want to lose money. In other words, like most investors, I want to get big returns without any risk of loss. Fat chance.
The only way to reconcile these two conflicting goals is through mental accounting, the process of framing funds as belonging in different buckets even though they’re all a part of one large pile. For me, that means:
- I’m designating one bucket as my “safe” bucket. This bucket contains money I’m unwilling to lose. Its size is my age (or 42%). My goal for the money in this bucket is to preserve it.
- The other bucket — which therefor contains 58% of my funds — is designated for aggressive growth. I’m willing to take calculated risks with this money because I want it to grow quickly.
Now that I have that mental model in place, I need to decide what to put in each bucket. Actually, the “safe” bucket is fine. I’m happy with the bonds and bond funds I have. I just need to make sure the bucket contains the right amount of them. It’s the stock bucket that I need to tinker with.
Walking through the numbers with Will
Last week, I had lunch with my friend Will. Will has been working in the investment industry for almost a decade, and he’s studying to be a financial planner. He knows a lot about asset allocation and investing. He asked me about my investments.
“Well,” I said, rummaging in my backpack, “I just happen to have a bunch of notes with me.” I knew Will would ask me about my investments, so I’d come prepared.
I showed him my current asset allocation. I told him about my goals, and described how I’ve mentally divided my money into two buckets. He wasn’t enthused about this. “A lot of people think like that,” he said, “but it’s not necessarily a good idea. Really, you just have one big pool of money, right?”
“Right,” I said.
“If you split your money into two smaller pools, you have to treat each one as if it were your only account. That means you’re duplicating effort by having to do some things twice.”
Like Greg at Fidelity, Will asked me a lot of questions about the funds I owned. He wanted to know why I owned each one. Unlike Greg at Fidelity, Will wasn’t shy about letting me know some of my choices were stupid. Especially putting 18% into energy stocks.
After lunch, Will had me take an on-line risk tolerance profile. I scored a 59, which apparently means my risk tolerance is greater than 80% of the population at large. This means I’m comfortable taking some calculated risks: I’m willing to invest in a stock or fund that offers potentially large returns, even though there’s also a greater potential for losses.
Mulling it over
After meeting with Greg from Fidelity, after having lunch with Will, and after reading all about asset allocation and rebalancing, I still hadn’t made any decisions. I’m mulling things over.
I’ve decided to read one last book about investing: David Swensen’s Unconventional Success, which is a highly-regarded manual for individual investors. Swensen suggests a target asset allocation for the average person, and he lays out the logic behind it. I’m leaning toward using this as a base to build upon.
By next week, I’m supposed to have my target asset allocation in place so that Greg and I can begin the process of rebalancing. Once I’ve made some decisions, I’ll report back to Get Rich Slowly to share where I’m moving my money and why. Stay tuned!
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Why are you in Fidelity if you don’t have to be in Fidelity? Why not move everything over to Vanguard?
I’m in Fidelity because I have to be, that’s the cheapest of the companies I can get for my 403(b). If I could move to Vanguard I would!
Moving to Vanguard has several big advantages. The first, and most important, their fees are absolutely the lowest. They’re not about profit-maximization for the company, they’re about good investment options for people. The second, especially if you’re not sure what to do, they have TONS of helpful advice from Bogleheads investing books and forums, and, more importantly, their target-date funds are super cheap. You could set and forget. You have a fantastic guest article on Vanguard target date funds from about a year ago– reread it! It didn’t get a lot of comments but it was one of the best articles you’ve posted.
I encourage you to run the numbers for yourself. Look at the annual fees on each fund you’ve got that Fidelity is charging. Then look at the fees on a Vanguard target-date fund. Run the numbers yourself. I was losing $300/year in fees alone just for having a more expensive company handle my retirement assets and that number was going to be getting larger every year. That’s money I could have been saving for retirement.
It’s also good that Fidelity isn’t willing to give you investment advice. Ing is more than willing to encourage you to move into their high cost funds (Me learning a lesson about ING: http://nicoleandmaggie.wordpress.com/2010/07/20/retirement-saving-what-not-to-do/ ). The incentives aren’t aligned between the company and you. They want you to spend more money, you want to spend less.
The two most important things in investing are diversification and fees. You should diversify with index funds, ETFs, or target-date funds. You should purchase the lowest fee funds available. Since you’re not trapped in employment with a specific company there is no reason not to roll everything over into Vanguard. Then you can make one decision (retirement date) and stick all your money in a target date fund and you’re done.
If you do stick with Fidelity, their Spartan funds are really the only things worth buying. Unfortunately they don’t completely capture the market (missing emerging markets and small-caps) so you might want to supplement by opening up a new Vanguard account and sticking new money in their cheap versions of what Fidelity doesn’t do Spartan.
This is my favorite of the asset allocation calculators: http://cgi.money.cnn.com/tools/assetallocwizard/assetallocwizard.html
Have you read the Bogleheads guide to investing yet? That is the behavioral economist-approved investment method. High diversification, low-fees. Easy to set and forget.
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Amen sister, can’t beat the Bogleheads forum and books.
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Here’s the awesome GRS post on target date funds from last July: http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2010/07/07/choosing-a-target-date-fund/
Fidelity target-date funds are over-priced and I wouldn’t recommend them, especially for the relatively young.
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You know, I have read the Boglehead book, but not in a long time. And I wasn’t ready for it when I read it. Does that make sense? Now, though, I probably am ready. I should read it again.
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JD,
Slow down a bit. Spend the next month reading the boogleheads forum daily. There is some very good investment advise discussed on a wide variety of investments, strategies, importance of risk, etc. The references provided are top notch as well.
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Will second the thumbs up for Vanguard. Have my $$ that I can with those guys, love the low low fees.
Not that you need anything else to read
— but I HIGHLY recommend “Get Rich Slowly” by William Spitz, the former treasurer at Vanderbilt University here in Nashville. Not only is the name of the book spot on (heh), he provides some very sound models for asset allocation at different points in your life — and is a big advocate for index funds. Have been using his approach with good success. Worth a look!
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I have a copy of Get Rich Slowly on my shelf. (I found it at a used book store about six months after I started this site. I groaned when I saw the title.) I’ve never read it. Maybe I should.
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The early-retirement forums had a thread on asset allocation – plus, most of the contributors have retired early and have discussed how they did that – some with pensions, some with investments, many with a combination. Very different risk tolerances/etc, but the basic ideas for retiring early are the same.
http://www.early-retirement.org/forums/
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If you find the time, may I also suggest: The Only Guide to a Winning Investment Strategy You’ll Ever Need.
Surprisingly an easy read with facts backed up with data.
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Yup, start with Bogleheads as a basis for not only what to own and in what percentage but which investment vehicle (tax deferred, etc) to have the assets in. Then tilt from there. If you need higher returns to hit your retirement date you’ll either need to work longer or take more risk. On the other hand, if you don’t need high returns than there is no need to have more risk than you need. As they say once you’ve won the game you don’t have to continue to play it.
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I agree with Nicole and Bruce. After figuring out what you want your AA to be, get with Vanguard and get into one of their Target Date funds that looks the most like your AA. Then forget it – it rebalances automatically and becomes more conservative the closer you get to your target date.
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Put some thought into your bond allocations qe2 ends in June .Which should drive interest rates up and bond prices down having a negative impact on your existing principal .No guarantees this will happen but it is highly probable Bill Gross thinks this way and he is a master in the bond markets. Times are very uncertain right now Qe has probably propped up equity prices and the fiscal situation could create a great deal of volatility going forward.”poor Charlie’s almanac k” is also a great read its about how to think rather than how to do.Unconventional times call for unconventional thinking good luck.
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Just putting in another target date vote. The kids’ 529s are all with Vanguard and are automatically rebalanced.
Oldest child started college fall of 2009. Remember 2009? The 529 had rebalanced however, and while growth was small that last year, we still had more money than we’d put in by a large margin.
Oldest child also had a UGMA opened and run by a relative. Relative didn’t rebalance. That account had had a value almost twice as large as the 529. It lost half by the time it came to child.
Not entirely sure about the fates of the other UGMA though I’m afraid that the lesson learned from the first one was that bonds are better. So, they’ve now likely been converted to something that’s also not time-frame appropriate. Ah well. Not our money, glad for kids to have whatever ends up being left.
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JD,
Timely post. My company switched 401k providers and I finally got around to picking my new selections last night.
Why is having 18% in energy dumb? Is it because it’s out of balance with the other selections?
Given the economic outlook for the US, I’m not hopeful that blue chip (large cap) stocks are going to provide much growth for my portfolio in the next few years.
I left 20% in a Vanguard large-cap growth fund as a safety net. 20% in emerging markets, 20% in international growth, 20% in small cap growth, and the rest in a health-care sector-specific fund. At my age (32) I can afford the risk, a majority of my funds are in low-cost index funds (the health care and emerging markets are not).
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Why is having 18% in energy dumb?
This is an excellent question that the post doesn’t address. It seems J.D. just assumes that the answer to this question is obvious.
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Having 1/5 of your portfolio in one concentrated sector is not dumb as long as it fits your investment goals and investment plan.
JD didn’t really clarify his exact investment plan in the post, but he mentioned liking [broad based] low cost index funds. This implies a desire to keep his costs low and be a couch potato investor. 18% in energy does not fit his investment profile.
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Having 18% in energy is dumb because it’s not practicing diversification, a principle I know about and try to follow. If I had concrete reasons for believing energy stocks would perform well over the long term, it might make sense to tilt this heavy toward energy. I do think energy is going to be more productive than other sectors, and that’s fine. But that means I should own maybe 5% in an energy fund — not 18%.
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I have a question about bonds. Are you investing in government bonds? My dad has had success with this, and my grandpa, but I’m 30 and afraid that if I invest in bonds by the time I go to retire the government deficit will be so bad that they will renege on the bonds.
If anyone has any thoughts on this, I’d love to hear them.
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The federal government will inflate or raise taxes before reneging on bonds. If the federal gov’t reneges on bonds then that reneging will be the least of our worries.
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These posts have gotten me thinking about my own asset allocation. I kind of think I’m actually low in bonds and cash equivalents, but will have to check into it more.
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My current 401k (also at Fidelity) allocation is:
95.46% SPTN 500 INDEX INV
2.61% OPPHMR DEV MKTS
1.93% SPTN INTL INDEX INV
The names of the funds are FUSEX, ODVYX, and FSIIX if anyone is curious.
The reason the international and developing markets funds have so little invested in them is just because I only added them recently, and had previously been putting everything in the (domestic) index fund.
Living dangerously! (but it doesn’t bother me)
Also, you say your advisor wanted to know *why* you chose to put your age in bonds, but you never answered that question. It seems arbitrary (I know, it’s supposed to give you safer investments as you approach retirement, but there are plenty of other ways you could do that).
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My reason for having my age in bonds is arbitrary. It’s an attempt to be conservative about my investments, but as I’ve read over the past two weeks (and as I’ve talked with other people), I’ve come to believe that I’m actually being too conservative. I’m not going to sell anything from the bond part of my portfolio to rebalance, but I’m not going to put any more money into them, either. As stocks (generally) rise over the next few years, I’ll let the bond portion of my portfolio become smaller. Right now, I’m targeting 32% (age-10%). That could change by the time I write the last part of this series, though…
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It is always good to try to rebalance your portfolio to make sure your investments are showing positive upward trends.
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J.D., I think you already have enough knowledge to make a good decision. Reading more books will not make up your mind or give you more insight into the future.
It seems like you need a little push from someone as you can not make up you mind on your own. Maybe that’s why you’re talking to other people about what decision YOU should make. If you can not make up you mind, invest in target founds like most people who has no idea about markets do.
I wouldn’t be surprised if YOU know much more about investing than a guy from Fidelity branch. He might sound intelligent with all the questions he asks, but that’s what he was taught to ask, not what he learned himself by investing his own money.
Also, an advice to invest in more risky stocks at the time when market is reaching its peak again? Even for long term investing that’s “No, no” for me. But that’s my opinion. Yours might be different.
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This is a very astute comment. Part of the problem here is that I’m unwilling (or unable) to make a decision on my own, so I keep seeking more advice. But more advice just makes it tougher. It’s almost like I’m making things too complicated.
Also, I do agree that the market has climbed a lot over the past couple of years and is likely to shift directions. I think that’s probably a year away, but that’s just a guess, right? I think that gives me time to make some slow, considered decisions. But it’s also a reason I want to reduce exposure to more volatile investments, such as my energy fund and my Latin American fund. I need to make my investments more general and less specific.
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Yikes! I like reading GRS because you are transparent. You show your imperfect implementation of your ideas. Thanks for that!
Here you say that you should invest in diversified index funds but you haven’t really done it. I’ll be inerested to watch you figure it out.
Investing is harder than it seems. Most of us will need to manage a portfolio of several hundred thousand to a couple of million dollars to retire. The idea of a diversified set of index funds is good, but it is hard to avoid tweaking it to chase higher ferformace or to cut losses. Over time you have to learn to deal with fluctuations going from hundreds of dollars to hopefully tens of thousands of dollars. Figure out your asset allocation plan and let us see how long you stick with it and how you adapt it over time.
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JD: I’d encourage you to create a formal investment policy statement. I know you’ve written about them, so you’re familiar with the idea.
There’s no need for it to be complicated. And it reduces the tendency to have scenarios like this one in which you second guess yourself.
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I find this post so funny! Mostly because when our employer recently emailed us about all kinds of restructuring changes with our 403b’s, I happened to be reading YOUR book and I went with one of your super simple agressive structures. I’m also with Fidelity but my 403b is restricted to Vanguard stuff for index funds funny enough. So, now my 403b looks like this:
70.32% VANGUARD INST INDEX
20.54% VANG FTSE AW IDX IS
9.14% VANG TOT BD MKT INST
Although I believe I changed it so future contributions will be more like 60/30/10.
My rollover IRA is a whole other monster. That one is 100$ in SPRTN TOTAL MKT INDX INVESTOR CLASS. I haven’t done anything with it since I rolled it over and just had to pick something. I do plan on rebalancing it at some point so it’s more in line with the above one.
But again, I went with your advice so I suggest you try it.
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I love this comment.
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I also think you have too much money in bond at 42%. You can still lose that money right? You can’t say that the bond pool won’t be affected by the market.
I would put 40% – 50% in bond once I retire and that’s for income. I’m mid 30s and I allocated 5-10% in bond and that’s only because my employer 401k forced me to.
Good luck rebalancing.
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Is having 18% in energy funds/investments really that imprudent? Sounds like a decent idea to me (especially if it provides an dividend).
Fidelity isn’t bad, but I personally like Vanguard and Charles Schwab better (Schwab now has some of the lowest mutual fund and ETF fees out there).
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I still think the Fidelity target funds are just fine, and allow you to avoid rebalancing. You can further diversify with other ETFs and mutuals, but sometimes rebalancing too much, too often can just be a detriment to us as investors.
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They’re pretty expensive. You can save a lot of money recreating them manually. (That’s not true with the Vanguard target date funds– they’re a great deal.)
Though having a Fidelity target date fund is better than doing nothing!
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I’m with Mike Piper on this one JD, make a plan & stick to it. Rebalance, yes, but for the most part that should just mean adjusting back to plan. That plan should really only be re-evaluated every few years, or when YOU have a life-changing event – not when the MARKET changes.
Just goes to show, you can write a book on a subject, but in truth we are all students (and all human)!
You know what to do
Good luck!
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I disagree somewhat. Although I agree that market conditions shouldn’t change your plan, the investments that are available certainly could. For example, in my lifetime, cheap index funds and inflation-based bonds have become available. It wasn’t all that long ago that prudent investors kept their money in railroad bonds and the stocks that were available were considered risky, even shady.
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I am a bit curious of what Will said:
“If you split your money into two smaller pools, you have to treat each one as if it were your only account. That means you’re duplicating effort by having to do some things twice”
I do not understand the point here. If you are going to diversify, how would he recommend you do that without thinking of your funds like pools? I would love an elaboration on this.
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I wondered if this would be confusing.
Will’s point is that if I have two separate buckets, then each bucket must operate independently of the other one. So, if one bucket is my conservative investments, it should still have some small exposure to stocks because it will increase the overall returns while decreasing volatility. Similarly, the stock bucket should have some bond exposure for the same reasons.
The net effect is that my overall portfolio — independent of “buckets” — will still be balanced, but each individual bucket will be balanced, too. Right now, that’s not the case. One bucket is all bonds, and the other is all stocks.
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Thank you for the clarification. I think I understand what Will meant. I still do not understand the reasoning behind it though. If all your assets across all your accounts are properly balanced, why does it matter which “pool” contains which kind of assets?
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I don’t think it matters which “bucket” has which assets – if the overall allocation is what was intended.
I actually think the greater risk of managing a “conservative bucket” and a “risky bucket” is allowing them to operate too independently. You may have the allocation you want in each, but if you fail to realize that the size of the buckets have changed relative to each other, then you’ve changed your allocation overall.
I.E. if you decide your ideal allocation is:
40% conservative with 50% in TIPs and 50% in overall bond market
60% risky with 33% in total stock market, 33% in international stock, and 33% in emerging markets
why not just simplify it and say your asset allocation is:
20% TIPS
20% overall bond market
20% total stock
20% international stock
20% emerging markets
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JD, I have many thoughts on this.
1) You posted a FANTASTIC article a while ago on the “Lazy Investor Portfolio” approach, using Fidelity funds. You need to re-read it.
2) The old rule of “Have your age in bonds as a percentage of your portfolio” is exactly that – OLD. Most investment rules have been tweaked because of our longer life expectancy. The guideline for the past 10+ years has been 120 MINUS your age = bond percentage. So, for you, that should be 22% of your portfolio, NOT 42%. Most ESPECIALLY if you expect to retire early. Bonds can still lose money, and if you expect inflationary pressures in the next few years (as most investing pros seem to) their return will be declining. I’d be VERY concerned with nearly half my portfolio being DCA’d into such an investment class.
3) I’d also be wary of target-date funds. After the last melt-down, it was revealed that MOST TD funds did NOT have allocations that the investors expected based on their name. For example, TD 2020 funds had nearly identical portfolios as TD 2040 funds. For that reason, I much prefer the asset allocation that I control myself, via ETFs or Index funds.
I’m 45, and my current allocation at Fidelity is:
- 55% Fidelity Spartan Total Market(FSTMX)
- 25% Fidelity Spartan International Index (FSIIX)
- 10% Fidelity Emerging Markets (FEMKX)
- 10% Fidelity Inflation Protected Bonds (FINPX)
I rebalance annually, in January of February.
Good luck! And I look forward to the next installment.
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And here’s the Lazy Portfolio article, from June 2009:
http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2009/06/02/the-lazy-way-to-investment-success/
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That’s right! That WAS an awesome article.
Man, JD, between your book and the amazing articles you’ve posted in the past year seems like you have all the information you need to apply to your own portfolio.
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JD;
Great post (as always). When you mentioned the idea about using “buckets,” it really stood out to me–I tend to build them as well (“I need money for _____ in about 5 years”).
I’m sure there are as many ways to “plan” your savings and investing accounts as there are people in the world, but my strategy involves these very same “buckets:”
http://www.younginvesting.com/2011/04/how-money-can-buy-you-happiness-part-1-preparing-your-buckets/
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You guys have too much trust in the safety of bonds. You stand a big chance of having to write off a large chunk of your money in the next decades.
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Those risk questionnaires are a good starting point, but don’t just trust them blindly. (It’s like career interest surveys–they might give you some good ideas, but you still have to figure out what you want for yourself.) For example, I am quite risk averse, yet most of the investments I control (except for my house) are in stocks. Why? Because inflation is a risk. And because I have a pension (which is very bond-like).
On target-date funds: you can pick based on your estimated retirement age, or you can just pick the one that currently has the asset allocation you want. Then if it gets more conservative too slowly for you or too quickly for you, you can switch to a different one. If it’s within a retirement account, there won’t be any fees or tax ramifications for doing that.
On your decision to have your age in bonds: one good reason to do this is that by sticking to this, your portfolio will automatically get more conservative as you age. But as sandi_k point out, there are other ways to do that (I hadn’t heard 120-minus your age for stocks–last I heard was 110 minus your age, but just pick something you like). And it doesn’t have to change by one year each year. Maybe you need to get conservative faster because you’re retiring young. Or maybe not, because you’re going to need your funds just as long as someone who’s retiring old.
Lastly, just a reminder that you don’t have to stick with whatever you decide forever (though you might want to institute a 30-day waiting period rule for any changes).
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Debbie M made a statement, “Maybe you should get conservative faster because you’re retiring young.”
This approach may be a falacy because it can backfire on limiting your future returns.
JD, there is nothing wrong with FSENX, good returns in this market. FNARX is equally as good, or better. Way too much emphasis on bonds in your current allocation, in my opinion. I have never owned a bond and have been retired from a relatively low paying job since 1982.
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Mine is simple! Hopefully it will work for me. I’m 43, it’s a little aggressive, but I am using 120-my age as my allocation.
Stock Index – Vanguard 500 Index Portfolio 77.5%
Bond Index – Vanguard Long-Term Bond Etf 22.5%
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Suggest you look at ETFs. Their fees are even lower than Vanguard’s index funds which are pretty low to start with. If you can’t get ETFs through your Fidelity account consider an online brokerage. I’m very happy with Scottrade.
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Blarg! Re-reading this article, I see that I completely forgot to make a key point.
I’m trying to develop this new framework as a way to look at personal finances, right? And the three pieces are earning, spending, and saving/investing, right? In my original article, I pointed out that it’s possible for a person to excel at one and suck at the others. Well, I’m pretty darn good at earning, I do okay at spending, but I feel like my skills at saving/investing leave a lot to be desired. All I have right now is theory, and I haven’t figured out how to put that theory into practice. I’m working on it.
That’s a long way to say thanks, everyone, for the feedback. I appreciate it. I know I’ve got some goofy stuff going on with my investments. The time to have set things right was 2009 when I was shifting everything around. Now, it’s going to be tougher. Yes, I could sell everything and start from scratch, but the tax implications there are scary. Instead, I’m going to make gradual changes, which means my ideal allocation (whatever that turns out to be) probably won’t be reached for several years.
I’m okay with that. It took me a long time to get out of debt, too. But eventually I did it, and now I have some solid skills. It’ll take me a long time to determine my investing strategy, but once I have it, I’ll be better off for it.
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Remember: within your dedicated tax-preferred retirement accounts, there aren’t bad tax implications from selling and buying other things. You can’t take losses either. Tax-preferred accounts are great places for broad indexes which will go up over time and don’t need active management. (That’s what Robert Brokamp’s recent post was about, come to think of it.)
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One quick note about Vanguard. You can get into Admiral shares of many of their index funds with a $10k balance. For example, the total stock market fund’s expense ratio is 0.18%, but the Admiral shares have an expense ratio of only 0.07%. Note that the $10k amount does not relate to portfolio balance, but the balance in each individual fund you may have in your portfolio.
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Hey, folks. I’ve read all the comments now, and see some general trends. For one, each person has her own idea of what will or won’t perform well in the future, whether that’s bonds, energy stocks, or whatever. There’s no consensus. No surprise then, that I have my own ideas, too. And it’s fine for me to customize my portfolio to match those ideas, but I need to be careful that in doing so, I don’t throw it way out of whack.
So, if I think energy stocks will perform well, then it’s okay to have 5% in them — but not 18%. And if I’m trying to be conservative, it’s okay to invest in bonds. I know you might not have done so, but it’s still a valid choice (a good choice even).
Anyhow — I’m not sure how things will shake out here. I think Mr. Piper is right: I need to write an investment policy statement. I think GRS reader Dylan had me draft one a couple of years ago, but I don’t know what I did with it. I’ll try to track it down.
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JD
I am glad to see that you are looking at this re-balancing idea as a process that might take several years. I must admit I was a little nervous when I was reading your article and you starting talking about selling to rebalance (DON’T DO THAT!).
Buying to rebalance is a much smarter plan (tax wise). And taking time to rebalance is never a bad thing.
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Within a tax-advantaged fund, the only problem is fees at the time of selling, and those are not particularly large compared to potential gains from rebalancing and moving to low-fee funds.
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I liked your statement about how sometimes you know waht you should do, but you still don’t do it.
I think everyone struggles with this in one way or another. Dieting, saving, spending time with the kids- we all know what we should do, but its just flat out hard sometimes!
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I don’t like how a lot of the comments are very adamant that their way is the right way.
Some people will say that ETFs are better than normal index funds because of the expense ratio, but the admiral versions have the same expense ratio as the ETFs and what if you are personally more comfortable with funds than trading ETFs?
Take the Vanguard 500 index fund (VFINX) and its ETF (VOO). The expense ratio of VFINX is 0.18% and for VOO, it is 0.06%. On $10,000, which is the amount you need for the Admiral version of the index fund (expense ratio 0.07%), the difference is only 0.12%, which would be $12 per year. If you’re looking at only $3,000 in the funds, it’s a difference of $3.60 per year. Personally, I prefer the index funds over ETFs and for that cost savings, the extra reducing of my comfort level isn’t worth it.
I also don’t agree with the push for target funds. Like you, I prefer to have more control over my money. But they were great when I was just starting out and didn’t have the funds to share around with Vanguard’s $3,000 minimums.
Re-balancing only has tax implications in a taxable account. In your Roth IRA and your Individual 401(k), there are NO tax implications. That’s why they always say to re-balance in your IRAs and 401(k)s before in a taxable account.
If you think your allocation is goofy, you should have seen mine for the first 6 months of my 401(k)! I had some of pretty much every fund the 401(k) offered and most of them were actively managed. It was more than a little ridiculous. To top it off, I was only putting $283.33 per month into it and I had the following crazy allocation after 6 months:
Total balance: ~$2,400
Employer stock: $893
PIMCO Total Return Inst: $308 (active)
Artio Inter Equity Fund A: $307 (expense ratio: 1.27%)
Am Beacon SmCap Val Plan: $88 (expense ratio: 1.16%)
Vanguard® 500 Index Fund Inv: $73
Vanguard® Windsor II Fund Inv: $72 (active)
Retirement Savings Trust: $228
Vanguard Target Retirement 2050: $312
Vanguard Strategic Equity Fund: $88 (active)
What I told myself was that at least I was contributing to the plan…
I finally have it in a much better place, with only four funds (Vanguard Total International Index Fund, Vanguard 500 Index Fund, Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund, a small amount in the Retirement Savings Trust, and the matching in my employer stock which is a smaller portion of my portfolio each month). The best part? I know why I picked each one and what purpose it serves.
Good luck with your re-balancing J.D. and at least you know more about why you picked your goofy investments than I did about why I picked the above ones! The investment policy statement should really help you to understand why you made decisions in the future.
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JD, I know I’m late to the party, but what happened to the “lazy portfolios” you talked about in earlier posts? Was it that you don’t believe in them anymore or just didn’t physically make the changes?
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