How to Build a Better Budget
Published on - May 2nd, 2011 (Modified on - January 31st, 2013) (by J.D. Roth) This article on building a better budget is the written version of a workshop I gave last week at a local public library. It refines material from several past posts on the subject. If I’d planned ahead, I could have used this for Financial Literacy Month in April.
For most people, budgeting is about as fun as a trip to the dentist. But using a budget doesn’t have to be a chore, and it can have huge benefits. If you pick a budget that fits the way you live, it can help you meet your goals more quickly. The key? Don’t think of a budget as a constraint. Real Life is a constraint; a budget helps you break free so that you can spend on what’s important to you.
Why Budgets Fail
A lot of people get frustrated with budgeting because it never seems to work. They never reach their spending targets. Or emergencies break the budget. Or it seems like so much work for so little reward. I hear you. I’ve been there. But if you follow a few rules (or maybe “guidelines”, if you prefer), budgeting can be less stressful and more useful.
Based on my own experience — and based on comments of GRS readers like you — I believe there are a handful of reasons most budgets fail. In fact, I wrote about these in Your Money: The Missing Manual.
You may encounter trouble with your budget if:
- It’s too complicated. People have a tendency to make budgets more complicated than they need to be.
- It doesn’t reflect your values. A budget should help you achieve your goals, so make it personal. If you try to use somebody else’s budget, you’re going to have a tough time.
- It doesn’t reflect reality. When you build a budget, base it on your actual income and behavior — not on some imaginary you.
- It seems like a chore. Don’t let your system bog you down. Your goal is to have a budget that works, so keep looking until you find one that works for you.
Extrapolating from these common problems, it’s possible to come up with a set of guidelines to help you build a better budget.
The Four Rules of Budgeting
Here are four rules I follow when building a budget for myself:
- The first rule of budgeting: Don’t worry about perfection. A budget is a target. Your spending won’t be perfect the first month. Or the second. Or the third. If you can’t get your money into perfect balance, get as close as you can. Learn to make adjustments, and don’t give up.
- The second rule of budgeting: The big stuff makes more difference than the small stuff. Yes, you should clip coupons and shop at thrift stores. But you can save thousands of dollars at once by being smart when you buy a house or a car. Decrease your major expenses — like housing and transportation — and you’ll have a lot more room in your budget for the fun stuff.
- The third rule of budgeting: Make plans based on your real life, not how you wish life would be. Don’t budget for possible salary increases and ideal spending habits. If you spend money on coffee every day, make that part of your budget. If you haven’t received a raise at work, don’t count that in your income. Budget for reality, not wishful thinking.
- The fourth rule of budgeting: Keep it simple. If using your budget is a chore, you’ll never follow through. Include only as much detail as you need. Find a way to track your spending that works the way you do.
Here are some other tips for building a better budget:
- Think yearly. Yearly budgets are more accurate because you’ll remember irregular expenses, like Christmas gifts and property taxes. Create an annual budget first, then divide by 12 to get monthly numbers.
- Target problem areas. Do you buy a lot of music or spend too much on dining out? Add a “music” or “dining out” line to your budget. This will allow you to indulge yourself–within reason. (I budget for comic books, for instance.)
- Track your spending. If you don’t record your spending, you can’t know if you’re sticking to your budget. Find a method that works for you: Use pen-and-paper, a spreadsheet, Quicken, Mint, PearBudget, etc.
- Get out of debt first. Think of saving and debt reduction as interchangeable. While you have debt, your main focus is to get rid of it — saving money is secondary. When the debt is gone, then you can save.
- Make it a habit. Review your budget at the same time and place every week (or month). If you make this a routine, it’ll be easier to stick with your budget in the long term.
- Consider the Envelope System. With this popular method, every time you get paid, you put cash in envelopes designated for specific budget categories. When that cash is gone, you’re done spending for the month. Learn more from No Credit Needed or Frugal Dad.
And remember: If one budget doesn’t work, try another. Don’t just blindly use a budget from somebody else — even Dave Ramsey or Mary Hunt. Use their ideas as a starting point, but tailor them so that your budget fits your life. That’s what I did, and it worked.
The Balanced Money Formula
It’s no secret that I’m a huge fan of the Balanced Money Formula. Until I discovered this simple budget framework, I struggled to find a budget I could actually follow.

The Balanced Money Formula is a broad budgeting system outlined by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Warren Tyagi in the book All Your Worth: The Ultimate Lifetime Money Plan. It divides expenses into three categories: Must-Haves (or Needs), Savings, and Wants. Getting these three categories right is the key to reaching financial balance.
- Needs are housing, utilities, health care, transportation, insurance, and basic groceries and basic clothing.
- Savings includes retirement accounts, emergency savings, and debt repayment.
- Wants are everything else: cable TV, cell phones, haircuts, swimming lessons, dog food, tithing/charity, books and magazines, vacations, and food and clothing beyond the basics.
The Balanced Money Formula is based on your net (after-tax) income. It says that with your take-home pay, you should spend less than 50% on Needs, at least 20% on Savings, and the rest (about 30%) on Wants. These are targets to aim for.
When I discovered the Balanced Money Formula, I felt liberated.
First, the sheer simplicity of this budget framework freed me from having to track dozens of categories. Instead, I could just track my spending in three categories. (And then, as time went on, I was able to add in other categories for areas I wanted to track: comic books, dining out, and so on.)
Second, this budget gave me permission to spend. After I got out of debt in 2007, I clung to my frugal ways. Or, rather, my cheapskate ways. I was afraid to loosen up. But discovering the Balanced Money Formula made me realize that as long as I was paying my bills, keeping out of debt, and saving enough for the future, it was okay to spend my money on things that mattered to me. In fact, that’s essentially what money’s for.
Budgeting Sets You Free
When you use a budget, even one as simple as the Balanced Money Formula, you’ll need to make constant adjustments. But once you get the most important expenses figured out (your Must-Haves or Needs), you usually don’t have to worry about them much. Your housing payment doesn’t fluctuate from month to month, for instance. Your insurance premiums stay pretty constant. The same is true for your Savings. Once you get used to saving a certain amount, that becomes a habit.
Your goal, then, is to trim your Needs and boost your Savings until they’re both at respectable, sustainable levels. If you can keep these two broad categories where they should be, you can spend everything else on Wants. Spending on fun stuff is less stressful when you know you can afford it.
There are dozens of other great budgets out there, of course, including Richard Jenkin’s 60% Solution. And I’m certain that you have your own set of personal guidelines when budgeting. What rules do you follow when building a budget? Which methods work for you? Which do not?
As part of my workshop last week, I created a series of handouts. This post is largely drawn from that material. You may find it useful to download these for personal reference:
- Building a Better Budget handout [64k PDF]
- The Balanced Money Formula worksheet [104k PDF]
- The One-Page Guide to Personal Finance (2011 Edition) [71k PDF]
Let me know whether or not you find these useful. And I’m open to suggestions for further printables, too.
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J.D.’s right. Many budgets fail for various reasons. It can be tough to keep a budget with another individual, but just remember, while the budget it important, don’t make it your life goal to match your budget every month.
If you’re over by $50, just make a mental note and get on with your life. It’s probably a heck of a lot better than the way you used to budget….or not budget.
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I will say that I do better with a month-to-month budget. I just calculate at the start of the month how much I will need, throw 10% into a fun money account, and save the rest.
That budgeting doesn’t factor in the odd expenses like car insurance, but since I don’t go crazy with the saved money, I pull the irregular expenses out of that. If I did a yearly budget the money would go into savings anyway, but I think I’d be more stressed about filling the individual pots instead of the overarching goal–save the money!
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I’m a spending plan gal, I create an annual and monthly spending plan that accounts for fixed and recurring expenses as well as savings goals. We manage our day to day spending via an allowance system so I don’t have to budget for day to day expenses it comes out of allowance money and is limited to allowance money. I could be more precise in budgeting if we did away with allowance and came up with actual categories, but this seems to work for us and I think my husband would be annoyed if he was limited in his spending for a particular category. This way he can, and I can, spend how we like but we are limited in amount.
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I have been thinking a lot about budgets lately. Mostly have dumb I am for not budgeting all year. You see, my wife just finished her first year working for the school district. Her school pays only during the school year. It does not budget for you. We didn’t put money aside like we should have because for most of the year we were living off of just my salary and saving hers. But we just bought our first house, so now we have way more expenses going into a summer with no savings and only 1 salary, which is now, no longer sufficient. Anyone who reads my blog knows we also have close to 200k in student loan debt. Hopefully my wife can find a good summer job or my freelance writing side-business really starts taking off. We will have to sit down and really go over some of the great points raised in this article so that next year we’re not in this predicament.
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Does your wife have the option of receiving 12 months of (smaller) paychecks, as opposed to just 10 months of the school year?
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Can she teach summer school? Or tutor?
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There’s an interesting alternative to the 50/30/20 formula, which is the “retire in 5 years” formula– save 75% of your income (75%!!) and invest it into income-producing bonds and stocks.
I’m not set up where my needs and wants are meet with just 25% of my income, but I am definitely intrigued by the idea. Then again the guy recommends one spends just $50/month in food. I think I’d have to include “free” cockroaches in the menu if I were to do that…
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this may be the way to retiring in five years but these will be very long years; if one survives this is.
Maria
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But will your “retirement” involve continuing to subsist at the 25% level?
I mean, if I’m going to subsist on 25% of my current income, I might as well not work at all and try to live off public assistance. Why bother with the five years of drudgery in the first place? LOL!
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(Not trying to imply that everyone who uses public assistance is lazy–rather that at 25% of my current salary, I’d do better on assistance than having retired)
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I have no idea, I’m not that guy, but I was wondering if anybody here had tried it. I think that blog’s author posts here occasionally (apparently, he lives).
I can’t think of how to eat for under $2 a day unless it’s gruel for breakfast, gruel for lunch, and gruel at night. That’s like asking for beriberi, pellagra, scurvy, ricketts, anemia, and a serious protein deficiency all at once.
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Yeah, my wife and I eat well. We spend about $400/mo on groceries for the two of us. We do try to balance out the base food — ie chicken, ground beef, tilapia, and salmon. We buy from the grocer, not a specialty market or Whole Foods. When I think about how we could cut back on our food spending, there’s no easy “fat” to skim off the top. We already buy cost effectively, so cutting back would probably mean cutting back the quality of the foods and possibly switching to more unhealthier options.
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There are several like-minded folks that post in his forum (link should be on the front page of his site) that have retired extremely early.
Before dismissing it completely or assuming the worst (eating gruel), I urge you to check out the site or the forum. I haven’t followed it to the letter, but I am convinced there are ideas over there that anyone can use. A lot of the ideas Jacob presents have the nice side-effect of being environmentally friendly as well.
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@Kevin M –
Yes, I’m checking the website, and I’m intrigued by his ideas, which is why I posted this as an alternative to the money balance formula. I’m just wondering how Jacob can spend $50 a month in food without getting into dangerous territory.
Dan posted he spent $200 per person last month, my family spent $300 per person and I’m sure we could cut back, but there’s a point in “cutting back” where one would be lacking nutrients. I read on Cockeyed that the maximum one-person allotment for food stamps is $141: http://www.cockeyed.com/science/eating_in/feb28.html (see at the bottom of the page)
$50 per month seems a kind of self-mutilation, and I’m wondering how is it possible to stay healthy on such a budget– unless you live off the land.
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@El Nerdo – Okay, here’s how to think
Buy 50lb bags of rice and beans at restaurant outlets or ethnic stores. Don’t buy anything preprocessed. Avoid most dairy (it’s bad for you anyway) and think of meat as a side dish (like the Chinese). Learn to cook focusing on Chinese and Indian (Mexican is fine too but downprioritize the meat and cheese). Don’t get your food from big stores. Find the cheapest grocer in town (something like Aldi) and get only the vegetables currently on sale and cook with those. Sales change weekly.
I am a 170lbs person with <10% bodyfat. I'd say my food choices are rather good compared to the "standard American diet".
Note, we rarely eat organic (it's semicontroversial which is worse for you, fungi which aren't killed by chemicals or the chemicals themselves + lack of micronutrients).
Also, our current NorCalifornia food budget is $100/month/person. It is meaningless to throw out numbers without geographic references. Even timing is important. Last year we paid $75/month/person, but recently food inflation has picked up. But I could probably do $50 in the midwest.
@all – Yes, it's 25% after retiring. It does involve learning to do a variety of things yourself that most people seem to have forgotten or just never learned, such as, for example, eating well on a budget, instead of random shopping. I agree that living as a consumer on 25% of your income without the skills to substitute/compensate would be fairly miserable. This is where most people end up if they have their budgets cut for them due to job loss. If you do it intentionally and learn how to cook before you stop buying preprocessed food and learn how to plan your shopping before cutting the budget, etc. it's much more fun.
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Okay, I see how you do it, and it makes sense from a financial point of view, but I really can’t see myself eating that way unless it’s a life-threatening emergency (e.g., there’s been a nuclear war and I’m in an underground shelter).
I don’t say this to make fun of your choices, by the way. It’s just that too much carbohydrate is bad for mel I gain weight like mad eating grains and I actually do better on a diet of meat, fruits, vegetables and healthy oils (fish, olive, coconut), with little salt, no sugar, no processed foods of any kind except an occasional treat. I’ve lost 50lbs in the past couple of years doing thatl I have low cholesterol, my BP is 106/68, and I’m in excellent health.
I am not concerned so much with how much I weigh (weight alone is meaningless if you think about it) as with how much I can bench press while staying lean. I have been off weights for the winter so I don’t know right now what I can lift, but I’ll be resuming soon.
While I’m willing to live in a small apartment, share and old truck with my wife and our business, turn my living room into an office and cut back in other areas, including living in New Mexico where life is cheap but boring, and delaying the making of children until we’re in good financial footing, food is an area where I’m not willing to compromise past a certain point.
Food is not just one of the basic pleasures of life, it’s the foundation of our health, a source of shared happiness in my family, and the focal point of many hours of fun, from food shopping to cooking to eating.
We eat very healthy, so I’m not concerned with the average American diet of processed crap, or with garbage food. I’m talking about eating a cold sliced ripe mango in summer, or digging into a bowl of blueberries with a soup spoon, or eating a warm frittata on a sunday morning, or having goat cheese with honey and almonds for dessert after a nice grilled salmon with greens tossed with a simple vinaigrette. I love cooking and eating, which is why I hate preprocessed junk and gimmicks, but also why I cannot pursue the extreme food hack. At the same time, because I value my health, I’ve given up daily bread, rice, pasta, etc., even the whole grain kind. I eat those things as a treat only.
I understand the value of your tradeoff, I understand your motivation and I admire your discipline, but this is one area of life where I am unwilling to compromise the quality of my life experience and the quality of my nutrition as I feel its effects in my body.
Thanks for the post though, it’s an interesting idea and something to keep in mind should I ever need it.
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$300/month per person! Holy smokes! I live in the middle of nowhere, where food is expensive, and we only spend $280/month between my wife, 9 month old daughter and me. And we eat well, too. We buy very, very few processed foods. What we do, however, is make a lot of dishes that make a lot of meals. For instance, I can make a pot of red beans and rice for about $10 that will last all week long. Same thing for a pot of chili.
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El Nerdo,
Thanks for the link. I followed it through to the actual government website, and cockeyed reports the numbers wrong.
For a one-person household, the maximum monthly benefit is $200. For two people it is $367. As your household progresses in size, the additional benefit is $150 per person.
I’m actually shocked to learn that my wife and I spend only $33 dollars per month more than what foodstamps would provide if we were in poverty.
ETA: After thinking for just a moment. I need to add this qualification: I budget my work lunches separately. That’s $60-$100 depending on where and how I eat.
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Oh, yeah, the $100 makes a difference. I work and eat at home, otherwise it’s a business expense (meeting, etc). It’s nice to know that people in a tough spot can get some decent help though– thanks for checking the source on that info.
I shop mostly at Costco and Walrats, with some visits to Trader Joes and the hippie store (co-op) for a few choice things– we buy organic in a strategic manner, avoiding the most pesticide-heavy crops per this guide: http://www.foodnews.org/walletguide.php
So we get organic apples and blueberries, but stick to conventional mangos and grapefruits, for example.
With $50/mo I’d likely have to avoid all fruits.
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I completely agree about keeping your budget simple as you can but also tailoring it to meet YOUR specific needs and wants.
I think one of the most important things is to treat your savings like a bill and include that under your expenses and fix a certain amount that you save. Treating it like a bill will make you more likely to save instead of waiting to see what is left over and then save that. Your savings does not have to be a large number….when I first started I was literally saving $1 a month in my savings account. Over time it increased…but no one has to know your amount…just do it and stay in the habit.
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Since this post is about budgeting, I think it is fitting that YNAB (You Need A Budget) be one of the highlighted money management software packages. It is budget-centered and award winning. 100% on-target for this topic.
–Signed, a very loyal YNAB user.
http://www.youneedabudget.com/
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I started YNAB about 4 months ago and like the format and philosophy. BUT… it drives me nuts that it doesn’t automatically download/import transactions. You have to do it manually (download statement and import).
How often do you do this and how much time do you spend maintaining your tracking on YNAB?
J.D., I’d love to see a post comparing personal finance software programs.
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I’m a loyal YNAB user as well. We spend probably 30 minutes a week keeping our budget up to date. My husband and I both have the iphone app that goes with YNAB (additional $10) and we use that to enter our daily expenses as they happen. It makes it even easier to keep the budget up to date. To reconcile I use my Mint.com account to pull all of our transactions together. There’s a time investment with any budget, and for me the peace of mind I get from knowing I have a financial plan (budget) is worth the time investment.
YNAB worked for us after years of trying other budget solutions that just didn’t fit. They have a free 30 day trial if anyone is interested in giving it a try.
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I love the post and the PDFs. It’s all so well written. We don’t budget because we’re not big spenders. However, I saved all the PDFs to share them with my teenager. As her income and expenses increase I’d love for her to benefit from budgeting.
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I love my budget because it tells me where I’m allowed to spend money. If I didn’t have the budget, I’d probably never spend money on things I want because I’m too cheap. However, knowing I can afford a few things gives me that ability.
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That is *exactly* why I have a budget too! Except I call it a spending plan. Otherwise I miser my money far too much and I make plenty of money. Even though I think my monthly budget is high, I am still on track to save 57% of my net income for the year.
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Kevin – I’m exactly the same – a budget allows me to stop self-flagellating and actually enjoy some of my wages
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I’m a big fan of Professor Warren’s. However, while I believe the example you reproduced of 20% for savings (including retirement) is perfectly reasonable for people (like Prof Warren and I) who are at an age where it reasonably certain that Soc Sec will still be around during our retirement years, I believe 20% is extremely inadequate for those who are in their 20s and 30s.
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that amount needed for retirement is predicated on amount expected still to be around “for us” as opposed to how much will be around “for our children”…
…kinda just says how screwed we all are regardless of how we are budgeting our money. I’ll be glad when our parasitic societal behavior starts being paid attention to as much as our individual budgets, and our collective spending agencies held to as strict scrutiny. I know this isn’t a political site but our finite behavior is telling of the collective.
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I agree, thank you for pointing that out. 15-20% should be exclusively retirement for those of us under (I’d venture to say) 35 right now.
My budget looks more like 50% Needs, 20% Wants, 30% savings – with about half that going to retirement (we’re still in grad school).
Even in her book, Warren points out that the percentage is more of a minimum and reducing Wants should lead to more retirement savings. She suggests 15% of the “savings” at least to retirement after debt is paid off and you have a decent amount in savings.
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I use tools like Mint.com, Google docs and calenders to help me keep up with my budget and spending.
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Based on the four rules of budgeting, the ideal budget seems to be no budget.
Consider:
Don’t worry about perfection.
Easy to do with no budget!
The second rule of budgeting: The big stuff makes more difference than the small stuff.
Ok, this one doesn’t make much of a difference whether you have a budget or not, it’s true regardless.
The third rule of budgeting: Make plans based on your real life, not how you wish life would be.
When your budget is “whatever I happen to spend money on”, it always reflects real life perfectly!
The fourth rule of budgeting: Keep it simple.
Absolutely!
I’ll continue with the rest of the post, though.
And remember: If one budget doesn’t work, try another.
How do I know if a budget works? How do I know when it’s failing? Is it failing if I’m missing my goals but still spending less than I used to?
And I still hate the balanced money formula. How much of my $4,000 monthly housing payment is a “need” and how much is a “want”, and how much is “savings”? I can just move things from one category to another until they fit, and then any spending pattern can be “balanced”.
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Tyler,
Anything you are contracted to pay (mortgage/rent, car payment, student loans, etc.) is a NEED. The objective of the balanced money formula is to determine how much of these contracted items you can afford to spend your money on hopefully before you setup the contract. Yes, before you sign the papers, you should consider that $4,000/mo and how it fits in this. But after the paper is signed, you HAVE to pay it.
Obviously, this rule is pretty general and does not apply to everyone. As with all things in personal finance, YMMV.
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So taxes are a “need” then? Well, it’s going to be tough to stay under that 50% limit then. I’m actually expecting someone to say “but taxes don’t count!” in response to that. All I can say then is, “what, why not?”
Does paying off a credit card count as a “need” or as savings? Based on how you want to count it, it could be both. Say you owe $1000 on a credit card, but the minimum payment is $50/month. If you spend $200/month to pay it off faster, is that all “need” or is it $50 “need” and $150 “savings”? Or is that $150 neither a need nor savings, but a want?
Based on a “need” being something you’re contractually obligated to pay, then food and clothing aren’t needs. Still, the contractual obligation rule is the best one I’ve seen so far for “need” based on this formula.
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The 50% is based on your take-home pay.
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So how do I count my 401k contributions? They’re not savings? What about my property taxes? They’re a need, but my income taxes aren’t counted at all?
The formula has more holes in it than swiss cheese.
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Yes, property taxes are a “need” or maybe think of it as a “must pay.” With food, groceries are a need, you know, sustenance and all. But a nice dinner out… that is a want. With clothes, these are usually wants in my case, but you do need fabric to cover your torso. So when it is really a need, a must-buy, you can log it accordingly. Your mortgage is always a need, even if you are confident in your home value and consider it a type of forced saving. Your 401K is pre-tax savings. Once you track your spending in terms of needs, wants and savings for a few months, it will become intuitive and you can adjust it to work for your particular situation. Not that the system works for everyone, but it can be a very effective way of managing outflow.
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PROTIP: You are a troll.
If you don’t want to budget then don’t. Stop trying to derail the subject for those of us who are interested in taking a more active role in managing our finances. We get it. You think budgeting is dumb.
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Protip: if you want to skip over certain comments that you don’t like, there is a scrollbar at the right edge of your screen.
Protip 2: no one will ever be “pro” at this if they don’t think about how and why these recommendations do (or don’t) work.
I think the only reason J.D. likes this formula is because it gives some validation that spending 1/3 of his income on wants is ok, and he doesn’t have to deprive himself of everything for the sake of frugality. Not because the categories are clear cut or the allocations are well-thought-out.
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Ha. Tyler’s not a troll. He’s a curmudgeon.
Actually, Tyler often has constructive criticism. I don’t mind. Well, not usually anyhow. In this case, I knew he’d have complaints. He doesn’t like the Balanced Money Formula, and has said so many times before. In fact, as I was writing this post yesterday, I thought, “I should write Tyler’s comment for him and e-mail it to him.” I didn’t, though.
Tyler, you’re right that part of the reason I like the BMF is that it gave me permission to spend. It freed me from the mental shackles I’d given myself. I know that you spend a lot of your disposable income on your hobbies. You can afford it, so why shouldn’t you? I eventually got to where I could afford to spend some, too, but I wasn’t letting myself.
That said, there’s more value to this formula than you think. Just because you can’t see it, and just because I haven’t given all of the details here, doesn’t mean it lacks value. Trust me: Plenty of GRS readers have e-mailed me (and left comments) to say they’ve found the formula useful to you. Sure, you might have to make adjustments to fit your lifestyle, and sure some of the categories might not make sense to you. That’s okay. There’s nothing that says you have to be slavish to this, right?
Besides, there are other options for people who don’t like this. The 60% Solution is very close to this, and it has its advocates. Because it deals with pre-tax income, it might make more sense for you. On the other hand, I get the impression that you, Tyler, don’t need a budget. You make a lot of money, and your spending is under control. If that’s the case, just keep on truckin’…
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I should write my own alternative budgeting post. One that doesn’t allocate broad categories based on percentages of your income (the BMF says Steve Jobs should spend something like $75 million/year on “needs”), and which has the primary goal is to make sure your cash flow is net positive at the end of the month, rather than spending a lot of time categorizing things.
In fact, it’s not exactly a budget, but it is a “money management/spending strategy” or something.
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Tyler, it sounds like there’s a certain sweet spot in terms of income for the BMF. If you earn too little, it’s impossible to meet basic needs without being out of balance, and if you earn a higher salary, there’s a good chance that you can meet your needs, wants etc with a much lower overall percentage. I would venture that for the lower income person, the ultimate goal is to get your income to the point where you can execute the BMF. If you have an income high enough that your basic categories are becoming excessively funded, then I think you’ve progressed to the point where yes, another budgeting method is probably better suited towards your financial goals.
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Hmmm, yes, Elizabeth Warren wrote her book specifically for Steve Jobs. How could I have missed that! He bought all the copies.
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Doesn’t it kind of defeat the purpose of having a money formula if you have to be in the “sweet spot” in terms of income for it to apply? I mean, at that point isn’t the formula really just describing the reality of how most people in that bracket spend their money, rather than being an ideal to strive for?
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I think it makes more sense to track cash flow than it does to use the “Balanced Money Formula.” Cash flow is lot easier to figure out. If you are meeting your goals/needs/wants and have positive cash flow, then you are probably doing fine. If you have negative cash flow, then you may want to drop or pare down some of your goals/needs/wants.
Also, I think it’s worth asking what really counts as “savings?” Some people view “savings” as untouchable, whereas others treat it as money they haven’t had a chance to spend quite yet.
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Tyler, you’re either not reading carefully, or you’re being willfully obtuse!
The BMF says less than 50% on Needs. It doesn’t say “exactly 50%”. If Steve Jobs makes $75 million a year, it’s easy for him to spend less than 50% on Needs. Similarly, it says more than 20% on Savings. Anything that’s left over can be spent on Wants.
The whole point of the BMF is you don’t have to spend a lot of time micro-managing your budget.
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You’re right J.D., I’m not reading carefully! Maybe it’s because the graphic, which is much more obvious than the text under it, just says “50% needs”.
But I still have to agree with Des that a formula that only works in a “sweet spot” that is right around the average income is not a very good formula. Maybe that’s why I don’t like it, because my income is higher than average, and my cost-of-living is higher than average. If it’s only really intended to work for people that make $50-60k/year and buy houses for $175-250k, then that’s fine but those percentages shouldn’t be generalized to apply to everyone.
Occam’s razor as (purportedly) explained by Albert Einstein is:
“Make everything as simple as possible, but not simpler.”
I feel like this formula has strayed past the “but not simpler” line, and is too simple.
And no one even addressed my thoughts on no budget at all being a great fit for your budgeting rules — we all got hung up on my distaste for the balanced money formula.
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Here, just for you: http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/SavingandDebt/LearnToBudget/weston-is-it-time-to-dump-your-budget.aspx
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+1 to Tyler and Nicole. Right now we don’t budget. If I couldn’t pay my bills, or wasn’t making good enough traction on our financial goals – I probably would – to figure out what’s wrong and how to change it.
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Great summary; I’m a Mint user myself.
I agree you should budget for your real life, not how you wish you would be, isn’t budgeting for how somehow actually lives (not how they should be) the entire reason they end up needing a budget in the first place?
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The 50/30/20 plan is a good guideline but I would say that it is specific to different individuals as well. I just looked through our family’s budget and our ‘Needs’ are closer to 65% than 50%. Granted we’re at a different stage in our lives, just starting out in new jobs (and with a toddler, so child care and diapers are a lot of that). But depending on your income bracket, I imagine these numbers will change. For example, it’s hard for me to imagine someone making a million dollars a year having 10 times the needs that we do.
We’re able to compensate for the higher ‘Needs’ budget by only having about 18% of our budget tied up in ‘Wants,’ and we’ve gotten very good at managing that.
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Budget fails because it’s too much work to keep track of every expenditures. Mint helps a bit, but that information is already in your bank and credit card statement.
I’m tracking every pennies for 3 months to figure out my cash flow, but after that I’m probably not going to track it 100%.
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This is a good strategy and in my experience it does work. We wrote everything we spent for several months. But this only gives you the information you need to set up a budget and develop some habits (like, in my case, noticing how much things cost). Keeping track of expenditure is the first step to setting up a budget; one is about how much you spend and the other about how much you would be spending. Many people don’t realise this and confuse record of expenditure with a budget.
Now our budget is a very simple spreadsheet – this is the operational, month to month one. In fact there are entries like ‘week 1′ etc. But I know how much we will spend every week – and if the funds finish before the end of the week, well tough.
Maria
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The vast majority of my “need” items are fixed – mortgage, utilities (budget billing plan), taxes, insurance. I try to find ways to reduce them about once a year, but I don’t have to worry every month. It’s basically only groceries and clothes that I have to watch.
Wants are less likely to be fixed (though I consider the cell phone & car costs wants, and they’re pretty fixed) so that’s where the daily and monthly decisionmaking happens.
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My husband and I tracked our expenses for a year before we settled on the budget that we use now. We needed to get an idea of how much we would spend on gifts at Christmas, how much car insurance would cost for our two vehicles, etc. We also took stock of our lifestyle under the first draft of the budget. Budget 2.0 is very well suited to our needs and goals, but is continually under scrutiny for any changes that need to be made.
We haven’t fought about money since we got married – the budget eliminates the need to negotiate every single expenditure.
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J.D., I have become a regular reader of your blog; it is fun and it is informative. In this post I would agree with the need for budgets to be simple, flexible and personal – I never managed to have a complex one and other people commenting on my ‘wants’ really annoyed me. My wants are mine and only I know what these are and which ones are important to me. I also happen to believe that some wants should be ‘protected’ never mind what – if we allow ourselves to have these things we also find that it is easier to control the compulsion to have them.
Where I would like to take an issue is that one should watch the big expenditure; this is important but in my experience the ‘small’ spends can add up to really large numbers – coffee, little treats etc. Budgeting for these is hard but I have a system of pocket money per week which seems to be working.
I also remember that in a previous post you mentioned that your ‘wants’ expenditure is very low. I also was feeling guilty spending anything on fun; anyone who is/has coped with debt probably does. It is much better since I have a ‘I am so worth it’ account – every month I transfer some money there and it is for fun. The condition is that the money has to be spend every month.
Maria
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My husband and I do 40% savings, 20% long term (retirement) and 20% short term (everything else). That short term includes a down payment, vacations, a new computer, but it is all planned spending and it is all stuff that can wait. That way if something happens like one of us loses a job or if I go on maternity leave. It turns out we are only ‘living’ on 60% of our income and we can adjust to 50% pretty easily. I find this very reassuring. Last time I went on maternity leave we actually ended up ahead.
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I don’t think debt repayment of any sort should be considered “savings.” 18% of my net pay goes towards my car payment and student loan payments. If this is really the proper way to classify it, then I can just buy a really nice brand new car every few years and tell myself I’m “saving” 20% of my income.
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I think your car payment should go under “needs,” because it is a fixed expense for transportation. Similarly, your mortgage payment goes in the needs category, and not the savings.
The debt repayment category is probably more for credit card and other unsecured debt. People with cc debt that are just starting to budget need a way to classify that debt, and until they pay it off, they should probably not put as much in savings–maybe just a small emergency account. Once the unsecured debt is paid, the whole category should go to savings.
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I think JD is also referring to extra debt payments beyond what’s required. So if you are paying ahead on your car loan or mortgage (as well as CCs like Marsha said), that extra amount would be included in the “Savings” category.
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JD,
I go both ways on “don’t sweat the small stuff.” I budget every dime I make. I don’t go out of my way to track every penny, but I don’t use much cash, and I use mint, so I more or less track every penny without trying.
In the end, if I go over budget in one area, it has to come out of something else. For us, it’s likely to be savings. If we go far enough over budget long enough, it *will* affect our bank accounts.
So, what counts as “the small stuff”? If we’re over budget by $50 each month, at the end of the year, that’s $600 we were going to save. If we’re over by $100 each month, that’s $1200 short in our savings account at the end of the year. Should we be sweating that or not? (I will, ’cause we’re just starting to build our e-fund. But that’s the point.)
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If we were over by $100 every month, i’d look at the big stuff first – refinancing the mortgage, renegotiating insurance, cutting transportation costs, getting a cheaper cell plan.
Some people might have enough of a casual spending problem to be over $100/mo on small stuff, but they’re not going to turn that around on a dime the way giving up a parking pass or getting your loan payment down will.
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The balanced money formula works extremely well, but unfortunately I had to put it on hold while I’m unemployed. It definitely was a great way to balance my budget.
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Love this post J.D.
I have shared a method to tracking your daily spending on my blog today using good old pencil and paper. This is the first step to sticking to your budget and to getting a look at your good and not so good financial spending habits. The post also includes a wallet makeover…
http://fashionablefunds.typepad.com/blog/
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So what are you supposed to do when your rent is more than 50% of your income? I have a good deal on rent for my area, $850 a month, and I take home roughly $1150 after taxes.
The formula sounds great, and I’d love to be able to switch from a mindset of “spend as little as possible” to planned spending. I’m just not sure how to get there.
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Becca, I think Warren and Tyagi would argue — and I would too — that if your housing is eating up 75% of your budget (as yours is), your money is out of balance. That’s not sustainable. There may be reasons for that in the short-term, but long-term, you can’t continue to live that way. You either have to find a way to cut your rent or boost your income. Or both. Until you do, you’ll always feel pinched.
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Becca,
I think the short answer is “get a roommate.” Either that or a second job. (I don’t intend to be trite here, but those are really only your two options.) When I graduated college, I was making only slightly more than you, and the only way I could survive was with a roommate. For 2.5 years. I rented a room from a guy for $410/mo.
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Wow, you’re cutting it really close; with only $300 month left for clothes, food, transportation, health, phone, etc, you’re one bad case of flu away from disaster.
Having been where you’ve been (oh yes, I’ve been there, trust me), you’re probably getting into debt for unplanned expenses– then the interest starts to eat into your budget and you have less and you have to use more credit and… you get the idea.
You gotta move or find a roommate or make more money for sure.
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Here’s our “Do you budget?” post http://nicoleandmaggie.wordpress.com/2010/08/31/do-you-budget/ . We’re at the “Liz Pulliam Weston says it’s ok not to budget” stage in life right now. http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/SavingandDebt/LearnToBudget/weston-is-it-time-to-dump-your-budget.aspx That may change some day.
We are balanced according to the balanced money formula, but we didn’t intentionally set out to do that. Back in graduate school we weren’t balanced according to the formula but we didn’t have much choice because our income was so low and housing was so incredibly expensive. A good portion of our “want” spending went towards housing, because living in a relatively safe neighborhood was more important than any kind of “fun.”
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Thanks for this post. I’m a sorta-new GRS reader (and love it) and budgeting is still my area to improve. I will bookmark this to re-read for sure. As an aside (as long as I’m commenting), I should mention that despite not really budgeting, we have put together an emergency fund. Most of it is is from our bonuses or refunds and such (but in the past those have been used for ‘other things’). With our 2011 IRS refund, it hit $20,000. Two days later we found out our A/C compressor is dead (we live in the south). Our HVAC guy ball-parked $5600. His detailed recommendation is $9600 (to rework the entire system/vents/etc). We’ll get started with competing estimates/vendors, but knowing we can pay this in cash is huge. It sucks to be looking at those dollars, but it’s great seeing more than enough in savings already.
I also just sent my last payment for my 2008 car (the very affordable Mazda3) with the last 3 months of payments. Aside from our mortgage, we are debt free. Perhaps with no car note and a legit attempt at a budget, we’ll get the emergency fund back in shape quickly.
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Wow, thank you for this post. All this information looks great. I am a current college student starting a personal finance blog and I recently posted about why students should be budgeting. A lot of my friends don’t budget because they think they don’t need to but also because it can often be frustrating. There are a lot of good tips here and I like your Balanced Money formula.
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I’m loving this site. It’s chocked full of information. I’m trying to get a better grasp on my finances and the articles in this site are helping out a lot.
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Thanks for the Adaptu mention!
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Ooof. I just tried applying the Balanced Money Formula to my income and expenses, and even after tightening the belt as far as we can my wife and I (one wage, one pension) are at 86-7-7 instead of 50-30-20.
Looks like I need to start investigating my income options…
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I found this article interesting. Especially about doing a yearly budget. I have been doing monthly, but really like the idea of the yearly too. I thought it was funny how you listed out what we need vs. what we want. For example Dog food…not a luxury expense when you have a pet. Believe me, animals need to be fed!
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I love that you approach budgeting from the point that you do what works for you. Everyone operates and thinks differently and if you don’t follow what works for you then why bother? I actually do a budget for a month, so I can see what the big picture may be but then use a cash flow budget to manage the ins and outs of the month.
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The author has made an important mistake when re-wording the original 50-30-20 budget.
According to this Author, paying off debt goes into the savings category.
This is not correct.
It is, in fact, ludicrously obviously incorrect. If it were true, then I should buy everything on credit so I could have a 100% savings rate!
Paying off debt ABOVE and beyond the contractual requirement is savings.
Example:
I buy a car on credit at $250 a month.
I pay $250 a month.
That $250 goes against my “needs”. Not necessarily because I needed the car but because I am now contractually bound to pay for it at a rate of $250 a month.
I decide to pay $350 a month instead of the minimum of $250. $250 goes into the needs category, $100 goes into the savings category.
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