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	<title>Comments on: Your Retirement Account Survival Guide</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/</link>
	<description>Common sense advice on money saving tips, how to get out of debt, high interest savings accounts, cd rates, money market accounts, mortgage rates, money management and more.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 27 May 2013 02:41:48 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Penny</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-3012452</link>
		<dc:creator>Penny</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 03:26:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-3012452</guid>
		<description>Thanks for this article and the adorable cat pictures.  I&#039;ve been trying to set up a strategy for my retirement and didn&#039;t realize the difference between a 401(k) and a traditional IRA.  I&#039;ll definitely be coming back to read this article again.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for this article and the adorable cat pictures.  I&#8217;ve been trying to set up a strategy for my retirement and didn&#8217;t realize the difference between a 401(k) and a traditional IRA.  I&#8217;ll definitely be coming back to read this article again.</p>
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		<title>By: Nomen</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1400712</link>
		<dc:creator>Nomen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 May 2011 13:30:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1400712</guid>
		<description>While 401k plans can be wonderful, watch out.  Just before I retired a few years ago, I noticed that my Fortune 100 company managed 401k plan was making very poor returns even on money market accounts and I was being charged large fees. The day I retired I transferred my 401k to a much better IRA that I could manage myself. A couple years later I joined a class action lawsuit against my former employer for mismanaging investments and overly large fees.  We won a settlement but I only ended up with a tenth or less of my loss.  Bottom line: Don&#039;t trust your employer to manage your money in your best interest.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>While 401k plans can be wonderful, watch out.  Just before I retired a few years ago, I noticed that my Fortune 100 company managed 401k plan was making very poor returns even on money market accounts and I was being charged large fees. The day I retired I transferred my 401k to a much better IRA that I could manage myself. A couple years later I joined a class action lawsuit against my former employer for mismanaging investments and overly large fees.  We won a settlement but I only ended up with a tenth or less of my loss.  Bottom line: Don&#8217;t trust your employer to manage your money in your best interest.</p>
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		<title>By: Romeo</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1398452</link>
		<dc:creator>Romeo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 May 2011 14:00:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1398452</guid>
		<description>Wow, this article was great. It definitely gave me knowledge to walk away with. And everytime that I thought I was going to fall asleep (not often), bam, those funny pictures of cats set me straight.

My biggest concern with my retirement account (TSP) is that beneficiary is a minor. If I should pass away, I really don&#039;t know what would happen to the money since he&#039;s only nine years old. I think I need to set up a trust fund to ensure the money is spent how I want. In the meantime, I&#039;m still trying to find out if a trust account is the right thing.

Thanks again for the post.

Romeo</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow, this article was great. It definitely gave me knowledge to walk away with. And everytime that I thought I was going to fall asleep (not often), bam, those funny pictures of cats set me straight.</p>
<p>My biggest concern with my retirement account (TSP) is that beneficiary is a minor. If I should pass away, I really don&#8217;t know what would happen to the money since he&#8217;s only nine years old. I think I need to set up a trust fund to ensure the money is spent how I want. In the meantime, I&#8217;m still trying to find out if a trust account is the right thing.</p>
<p>Thanks again for the post.</p>
<p>Romeo</p>
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		<title>By: J.D. Roth</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1389492</link>
		<dc:creator>J.D. Roth</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 May 2011 01:24:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1389492</guid>
		<description>J.D. Roth-efeller here, taking a break from my tycooning. Actually, e-mailing me directly *is* the best way to get my attention. I do try to read all of the comments, but sometimes I&#039;m way behind on them.

Kris just noted that I should have a system for tracking reader article requests. I&#039;m not sure why I haven&#039;t thought of this before, but I&#039;ll use her idea of creating a spreadsheet listing story ideas from readers. That&#039;d be keen, yes?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>J.D. Roth-efeller here, taking a break from my tycooning. Actually, e-mailing me directly *is* the best way to get my attention. I do try to read all of the comments, but sometimes I&#8217;m way behind on them.</p>
<p>Kris just noted that I should have a system for tracking reader article requests. I&#8217;m not sure why I haven&#8217;t thought of this before, but I&#8217;ll use her idea of creating a spreadsheet listing story ideas from readers. That&#8217;d be keen, yes?</p>
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		<title>By: Amanda</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386692</link>
		<dc:creator>Amanda</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 May 2011 00:45:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386692</guid>
		<description>Some CPAs charge for phone calls.  I don&#039;t think it&#039;s &quot;wrong&quot; for them to do this.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Some CPAs charge for phone calls.  I don&#8217;t think it&#8217;s &#8220;wrong&#8221; for them to do this.</p>
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		<title>By: Amanda</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386682</link>
		<dc:creator>Amanda</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 May 2011 00:44:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386682</guid>
		<description>Kevin I agree a person should consult with a CPA BEFORE making a move.  A CPA charging hourly would be reasonable.

Some CPA&#039;s charge for the phone call.  I don&#039;t feel this is unreasonable.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kevin I agree a person should consult with a CPA BEFORE making a move.  A CPA charging hourly would be reasonable.</p>
<p>Some CPA&#8217;s charge for the phone call.  I don&#8217;t feel this is unreasonable.</p>
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		<title>By: stannius</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386672</link>
		<dc:creator>stannius</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 May 2011 00:41:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386672</guid>
		<description>All else being equal, you&#039;re better off not withdrawing money from your IRA.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>All else being equal, you&#8217;re better off not withdrawing money from your IRA.</p>
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		<title>By: Amanda</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386662</link>
		<dc:creator>Amanda</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 May 2011 00:39:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386662</guid>
		<description>It&#039;s not a very user friendly web site.  Best saved for the professionals.  

Definitely contact a CPA or financial planner BEFORE taking money out.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s not a very user friendly web site.  Best saved for the professionals.  </p>
<p>Definitely contact a CPA or financial planner BEFORE taking money out.</p>
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		<title>By: Amanda</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386652</link>
		<dc:creator>Amanda</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 May 2011 00:37:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386652</guid>
		<description>I agree.

Would an exception be if the home was a multi unit structure?  For example, if a duplex is $50,000 more than a house but you can earn $500 a month from it would it justify taking a little out of the retirement account to cover it?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I agree.</p>
<p>Would an exception be if the home was a multi unit structure?  For example, if a duplex is $50,000 more than a house but you can earn $500 a month from it would it justify taking a little out of the retirement account to cover it?</p>
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		<title>By: Confusador</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386412</link>
		<dc:creator>Confusador</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 21:43:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386412</guid>
		<description>It does depend on what funds you have access to.  My 401(k) has a bunch of Vanguard funds, and their institutional and institutional plus rates (for balances of &gt;$100 and &gt;$200 million) are obviously better than for individuals.  For the Total Stock Market funds, they are .052 and .032.  Granted, at that point the difference is almost not worth caring about, but if you have the options they can be worthwhile.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It does depend on what funds you have access to.  My 401(k) has a bunch of Vanguard funds, and their institutional and institutional plus rates (for balances of &gt;$100 and &gt;$200 million) are obviously better than for individuals.  For the Total Stock Market funds, they are .052 and .032.  Granted, at that point the difference is almost not worth caring about, but if you have the options they can be worthwhile.</p>
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		<title>By: John Deese</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386292</link>
		<dc:creator>John Deese</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 20:27:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386292</guid>
		<description>Does  anyone have any firm opinions about which companies have the best options for IRAs (any differences in available funds/fees)?  I have IRA accts on vanguard and an old 401k acct on fidelity (in addition to a new 403b on fidelity)- vanguard seems very cheap in terms of fees, but maybe there are better options?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Does  anyone have any firm opinions about which companies have the best options for IRAs (any differences in available funds/fees)?  I have IRA accts on vanguard and an old 401k acct on fidelity (in addition to a new 403b on fidelity)- vanguard seems very cheap in terms of fees, but maybe there are better options?</p>
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		<title>By: stannius</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386102</link>
		<dc:creator>stannius</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 18:45:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386102</guid>
		<description>For every 1 person who makes a mistake, there are 9 who don&#039;t get around to starting their retirement account because they feel like they need advice.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For every 1 person who makes a mistake, there are 9 who don&#8217;t get around to starting their retirement account because they feel like they need advice.</p>
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		<title>By: stannius</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386092</link>
		<dc:creator>stannius</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 18:43:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386092</guid>
		<description>I think you would be better off contributing to both. Even if you are in a higher tax bracket in the future, under our current progressive tax structure, some income is tax free. By contributing some to both types, you hedge your bets.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think you would be better off contributing to both. Even if you are in a higher tax bracket in the future, under our current progressive tax structure, some income is tax free. By contributing some to both types, you hedge your bets.</p>
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		<title>By: stannius</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386082</link>
		<dc:creator>stannius</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 18:37:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386082</guid>
		<description>To be clear, you would not be borrowing your down payment from the account, you would be withdrawing it.

Given that, if you can avoid withdrawing the money from your retirement account, you should. There&#039;s no way to put the money back once you&#039;ve taken it out.

If you can&#039;t afford the house without raiding your retirement, you probably can&#039;t afford it at all.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To be clear, you would not be borrowing your down payment from the account, you would be withdrawing it.</p>
<p>Given that, if you can avoid withdrawing the money from your retirement account, you should. There&#8217;s no way to put the money back once you&#8217;ve taken it out.</p>
<p>If you can&#8217;t afford the house without raiding your retirement, you probably can&#8217;t afford it at all.</p>
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		<title>By: Kevin M</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386062</link>
		<dc:creator>Kevin M</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 18:36:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386062</guid>
		<description>You did it fine, my point was this customer did not and it cost her big time. A 5 minute phone call (which I don&#039;t charge for) would have saved her thousands.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You did it fine, my point was this customer did not and it cost her big time. A 5 minute phone call (which I don&#8217;t charge for) would have saved her thousands.</p>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386032</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 18:24:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386032</guid>
		<description>If your modified agi is above 177K and you can&#039;t contribute to a roth, your doing pretty decent. You could convert but probably would have been better doing it when the market was lower so the tax bite would be lower. There is also conversion calculators out there, that factor in all the variables and give addtional details based on situations. Alot will depend on what tax rate you think you will be in when you retire, its usually lower. If you save a lot it could be high, but the reality is tax rates are going to go up eventually as well. http://www.smartmoney.com/personal-finance/retirement/roth-iras-to-convert-or-not-7965/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If your modified agi is above 177K and you can&#8217;t contribute to a roth, your doing pretty decent. You could convert but probably would have been better doing it when the market was lower so the tax bite would be lower. There is also conversion calculators out there, that factor in all the variables and give addtional details based on situations. Alot will depend on what tax rate you think you will be in when you retire, its usually lower. If you save a lot it could be high, but the reality is tax rates are going to go up eventually as well. <a href="http://www.smartmoney.com/personal-finance/retirement/roth-iras-to-convert-or-not-7965/" rel="nofollow">http://www.smartmoney.com/personal-finance/retirement/roth-iras-to-convert-or-not-7965/</a></p>
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		<title>By: stannius</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1386002</link>
		<dc:creator>stannius</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 18:10:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1386002</guid>
		<description>I was wondering this as well. Is there any restriction on rolling over old 401(k)s into your current employer, then withdrawing at age 55? All you would have to do is get hired somewhere with a good 401(k) plan at age 54.5 (for a typical six month waiting period to get into the plan.)

What if you&#039;ve rolled old plans into a &quot;conduit IRA,&quot; that is, an IRA you only put 401(k) rollovers into?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was wondering this as well. Is there any restriction on rolling over old 401(k)s into your current employer, then withdrawing at age 55? All you would have to do is get hired somewhere with a good 401(k) plan at age 54.5 (for a typical six month waiting period to get into the plan.)</p>
<p>What if you&#8217;ve rolled old plans into a &#8220;conduit IRA,&#8221; that is, an IRA you only put 401(k) rollovers into?</p>
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		<title>By: Dallas saver</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385922</link>
		<dc:creator>Dallas saver</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 17:36:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385922</guid>
		<description>I have a rollover Ira and a Roth but my income is too high to contribute to the Roth. I would like to consolidate the accounts if I can. Could I convert the rollover Ira to a Roth? Probably wouldn&#039;t make sense now because my marginal tax rate is high but is it even feasible?

P.s. We were bit by the disbursement from my husbands last job. He thought he was ok because the check was good for 6 months. We wasted a couple thousand bucks on taxes we should not have paid.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a rollover Ira and a Roth but my income is too high to contribute to the Roth. I would like to consolidate the accounts if I can. Could I convert the rollover Ira to a Roth? Probably wouldn&#8217;t make sense now because my marginal tax rate is high but is it even feasible?</p>
<p>P.s. We were bit by the disbursement from my husbands last job. He thought he was ok because the check was good for 6 months. We wasted a couple thousand bucks on taxes we should not have paid.</p>
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		<title>By: Maria</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385892</link>
		<dc:creator>Maria</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 17:31:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385892</guid>
		<description>Great article! And funny last entry on the 10% penalty table. I didn&#039;t realize how complex the withdrawal rule is and how costly a small procedural error can be. I have moved all my 401ks to a rollover IRA account with no major hiccups, now need to figure out the estate planning and the withdrawal strategy for this account. Time to find a good financial advisor for me. :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great article! And funny last entry on the 10% penalty table. I didn&#8217;t realize how complex the withdrawal rule is and how costly a small procedural error can be. I have moved all my 401ks to a rollover IRA account with no major hiccups, now need to figure out the estate planning and the withdrawal strategy for this account. Time to find a good financial advisor for me. <img src='http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Rob Bennett</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385872</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob Bennett</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 17:24:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385872</guid>
		<description>&lt;i&gt;some responsibility has to fall on the individual to educate themselves&lt;/i&gt;

This is a reply to Mike&#039;s comment (there was no &quot;Reply&quot; box under his comment).

Thanks for offering your thoughts, Mike. I strongly agree with the words of yours that I have quoted above.

The economic crisis is &lt;i&gt;not&lt;/i&gt; solely the fault of The Stock-Selling Industry. We all have a Get Rich Quick impulse within us and we all must fight harder to rein it in if we are to entertain realistic hopes of someday achieving financial freedom. There&#039;s an old saying that &quot;you cannot con an honest man.&quot; If we weren&#039;t so hot to fall for Get Rich Quick schemes, the Stock-Selling Industry would not be so keen to push them. They push them because their marketing surveys show that they work, at least in the short term.

That said, those who put themselves forward as investing &quot;experts&quot; take on a responsibility when they do so. If you are going to report numbers that people are going to use to plan their retirements, you have an obligation to report those numbers accurately. If you don&#039;t, people are going to follow the inaccurate numbers and suffer horrible life setbacks as a result.

We &lt;i&gt;all&lt;/i&gt; need to accept the share of responsibility that belongs to us. Middle-class investors have messed up. The Stock-Selling Industry has messed up. Journalists have messed up. The Personal Finance Blogosphere has messed up. Republican policymakers have messed up. Democrat policymakers have messed up. We are all in this together and we all messed up together.

My message is that we will all feel a whole big bunch better about ourselves when we stop worrying so much about who gets the blame and start focusing more on dealing with all the damage we have caused. When you are moving in the right direction, there&#039;s more of a spring in your step with each day of forward progress. For so long as we remain mired in The Blame Game, things get darker and darker as the economic crisis worsens and worsens.

The first step to getting to  a better place is saying the words &quot;I&quot; and &quot;Was&quot; and Wrong.&quot; It&#039;s not one person who needs to say those words, or 100 people, or 1,000 people, or 10,000 people. It&#039;s our entire society. I do think it&#039;s fair to say that those who call themselves &quot;leaders&quot; need to step forward first. That&#039;s what it means to &quot;lead.&quot;

Rob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><i>some responsibility has to fall on the individual to educate themselves</i></p>
<p>This is a reply to Mike&#8217;s comment (there was no &#8220;Reply&#8221; box under his comment).</p>
<p>Thanks for offering your thoughts, Mike. I strongly agree with the words of yours that I have quoted above.</p>
<p>The economic crisis is <i>not</i> solely the fault of The Stock-Selling Industry. We all have a Get Rich Quick impulse within us and we all must fight harder to rein it in if we are to entertain realistic hopes of someday achieving financial freedom. There&#8217;s an old saying that &#8220;you cannot con an honest man.&#8221; If we weren&#8217;t so hot to fall for Get Rich Quick schemes, the Stock-Selling Industry would not be so keen to push them. They push them because their marketing surveys show that they work, at least in the short term.</p>
<p>That said, those who put themselves forward as investing &#8220;experts&#8221; take on a responsibility when they do so. If you are going to report numbers that people are going to use to plan their retirements, you have an obligation to report those numbers accurately. If you don&#8217;t, people are going to follow the inaccurate numbers and suffer horrible life setbacks as a result.</p>
<p>We <i>all</i> need to accept the share of responsibility that belongs to us. Middle-class investors have messed up. The Stock-Selling Industry has messed up. Journalists have messed up. The Personal Finance Blogosphere has messed up. Republican policymakers have messed up. Democrat policymakers have messed up. We are all in this together and we all messed up together.</p>
<p>My message is that we will all feel a whole big bunch better about ourselves when we stop worrying so much about who gets the blame and start focusing more on dealing with all the damage we have caused. When you are moving in the right direction, there&#8217;s more of a spring in your step with each day of forward progress. For so long as we remain mired in The Blame Game, things get darker and darker as the economic crisis worsens and worsens.</p>
<p>The first step to getting to  a better place is saying the words &#8220;I&#8221; and &#8220;Was&#8221; and Wrong.&#8221; It&#8217;s not one person who needs to say those words, or 100 people, or 1,000 people, or 10,000 people. It&#8217;s our entire society. I do think it&#8217;s fair to say that those who call themselves &#8220;leaders&#8221; need to step forward first. That&#8217;s what it means to &#8220;lead.&#8221;</p>
<p>Rob</p>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385852</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 17:13:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385852</guid>
		<description>Don&#039;t get me started. Save early and as much as you can, but make time for the things really enjoy, because you never know whats going to happen in life.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don&#8217;t get me started. Save early and as much as you can, but make time for the things really enjoy, because you never know whats going to happen in life.</p>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385842</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 17:03:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385842</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m not disagreeing with your methodology and certainly I&#039;m not happy with corporate greed mongers that have there whole hands in the pie, not to mention the whole host of other issues the effect portfolio fluctuations. But some responsibility has to fall on the individual to educate themselves, which includes stop blowing there money on endless junk and live below their means, so they have means later in life. If you are planning properly in early life, the withdrawal rates are less of an issue. Your RMD #s are going to dictate some of those percentages and if you don&#039;t have taxable accounts and/or a Roth IRA, you will have less flexibility. Besides its easy enough to harvest stock gains even in retirement in your tax-deferred accounts and to put in bond or safer funds. You have to be somewhat hands on with your retirement to achieve this, the whole concept of set-it-and-forget-it doesn&#039;t work.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not disagreeing with your methodology and certainly I&#8217;m not happy with corporate greed mongers that have there whole hands in the pie, not to mention the whole host of other issues the effect portfolio fluctuations. But some responsibility has to fall on the individual to educate themselves, which includes stop blowing there money on endless junk and live below their means, so they have means later in life. If you are planning properly in early life, the withdrawal rates are less of an issue. Your RMD #s are going to dictate some of those percentages and if you don&#8217;t have taxable accounts and/or a Roth IRA, you will have less flexibility. Besides its easy enough to harvest stock gains even in retirement in your tax-deferred accounts and to put in bond or safer funds. You have to be somewhat hands on with your retirement to achieve this, the whole concept of set-it-and-forget-it doesn&#8217;t work.</p>
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		<title>By: Des</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385832</link>
		<dc:creator>Des</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 16:50:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385832</guid>
		<description>In that same vein, I would love to read articles like &quot;What I wish I had known when I was 20/30/40/etc&quot; Or &quot;What I wish I&#039;d known before I had kids&quot; or &quot;before I was married&quot; or &quot;before I was retired&quot;, things like that from folks who have been there and are now looking back.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In that same vein, I would love to read articles like &#8220;What I wish I had known when I was 20/30/40/etc&#8221; Or &#8220;What I wish I&#8217;d known before I had kids&#8221; or &#8220;before I was married&#8221; or &#8220;before I was retired&#8221;, things like that from folks who have been there and are now looking back.</p>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385822</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 16:46:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385822</guid>
		<description>-Make a simple quick monthly budget with all your fixed and other expenses either on paper or spreadsheet. Divide any yearly costs by 12 and include. You should have a minimum of 3-6 months of your fixed expenses, things you can&#039;t cancel immediately, like rent, utilities,etc.. if you lose your job. Based on your comments, I don&#039;t know your situation, you said your Ing account was for medical emergencies, does that mean no or high dedeductible health insurance? You said very few obligations and no debt, which may mean no or low rent. If your health insurance situation dictates the need for an emergency fund, I would separate that out from a normal emergency fund, which is helpful for loss of income situations. If you don&#039;t pay rent, mortgage or don&#039;t have a car payment but anticipate a future time where those expenses will be necessary, then you could start saving for them separately, as that is not considered part of the emergency fund. Otherwise I would stick with your fixed monthly expense total x 3-6, most experts recommend even more right now. In your regular budget add a line in for entertainment. You should have some fun especially if you are debt free at 24. Keep reading this blog its free.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>-Make a simple quick monthly budget with all your fixed and other expenses either on paper or spreadsheet. Divide any yearly costs by 12 and include. You should have a minimum of 3-6 months of your fixed expenses, things you can&#8217;t cancel immediately, like rent, utilities,etc.. if you lose your job. Based on your comments, I don&#8217;t know your situation, you said your Ing account was for medical emergencies, does that mean no or high dedeductible health insurance? You said very few obligations and no debt, which may mean no or low rent. If your health insurance situation dictates the need for an emergency fund, I would separate that out from a normal emergency fund, which is helpful for loss of income situations. If you don&#8217;t pay rent, mortgage or don&#8217;t have a car payment but anticipate a future time where those expenses will be necessary, then you could start saving for them separately, as that is not considered part of the emergency fund. Otherwise I would stick with your fixed monthly expense total x 3-6, most experts recommend even more right now. In your regular budget add a line in for entertainment. You should have some fun especially if you are debt free at 24. Keep reading this blog its free.</p>
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		<title>By: Rob Bennett</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385802</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob Bennett</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 16:32:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385802</guid>
		<description>&lt;i&gt;I know people who retired early in 2000 with what they thought was a huge portfolio, but when the markets tanked they had to
down-size their retirement.&lt;/i&gt;

This is a national scandal, JJ. We are likely going to see MILLIONS of failed retirements in days to come because of our failure to correct the Old School safe withdrawal rate studies, which fail to consider the valuation level that applies on the day the retirement begins and thus get all the numbers wildly wrong. [The data shows that the valuation level that applies on the day a retirement begins is the single most important factor determining whether it will survive or not.]

I have a calculator at my site that provides the accurate numbers (At least I hope so!). It is called &quot;The Retirement RIsk Evaluator&quot;:

http://www.passionsaving.com/retirement-calculator.html

The calculator uses &quot;P/E10&quot; to make the valuation adjustments. P/E10 is the price of the S&amp;P 500 over the average of the last 10 years of earnings. This valuation metric was discovered by Benjamin Graham, who was Warren Buffett&#039;s mentor. It has been popularized in recent years by Yale Economics Professor Robert Shiller, the author of &lt;i&gt;Irrational Exuberance.&lt;/i&gt;

The historical data shows that the safe withdrawal rate varies from a low of 2 percent (permitting an annual withdrawal of $20,000 from a $1 million portfolio) at times of high valuations to a high of 9 percent (permitting an annual withdrawal of $90,000 from a portfolio of $1 million) at times of low valuations. The Old School studies say that the SWR is 4 percent at all times. Thus, millions end up retiring with portfolios nowhere close to big enough to support them while millions of others work many years longer than they need to to finance a sound retirement.

The &quot;defenders&quot; of the Old School studies say that the 4 percent number is a &quot;rule of thumb.&quot; I say that we should all begin reporting the retirement numbers accurately and thereby spare millions of our friends and neighbors and co-workers from suffering one of the worst life setbacks (a failed retirement) imaginable.

Thanks for your question. Please take care.

Rob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><i>I know people who retired early in 2000 with what they thought was a huge portfolio, but when the markets tanked they had to<br />
down-size their retirement.</i></p>
<p>This is a national scandal, JJ. We are likely going to see MILLIONS of failed retirements in days to come because of our failure to correct the Old School safe withdrawal rate studies, which fail to consider the valuation level that applies on the day the retirement begins and thus get all the numbers wildly wrong. [The data shows that the valuation level that applies on the day a retirement begins is the single most important factor determining whether it will survive or not.]</p>
<p>I have a calculator at my site that provides the accurate numbers (At least I hope so!). It is called &#8220;The Retirement RIsk Evaluator&#8221;:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.passionsaving.com/retirement-calculator.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.passionsaving.com/retirement-calculator.html</a></p>
<p>The calculator uses &#8220;P/E10&#8243; to make the valuation adjustments. P/E10 is the price of the S&amp;P 500 over the average of the last 10 years of earnings. This valuation metric was discovered by Benjamin Graham, who was Warren Buffett&#8217;s mentor. It has been popularized in recent years by Yale Economics Professor Robert Shiller, the author of <i>Irrational Exuberance.</i></p>
<p>The historical data shows that the safe withdrawal rate varies from a low of 2 percent (permitting an annual withdrawal of $20,000 from a $1 million portfolio) at times of high valuations to a high of 9 percent (permitting an annual withdrawal of $90,000 from a portfolio of $1 million) at times of low valuations. The Old School studies say that the SWR is 4 percent at all times. Thus, millions end up retiring with portfolios nowhere close to big enough to support them while millions of others work many years longer than they need to to finance a sound retirement.</p>
<p>The &#8220;defenders&#8221; of the Old School studies say that the 4 percent number is a &#8220;rule of thumb.&#8221; I say that we should all begin reporting the retirement numbers accurately and thereby spare millions of our friends and neighbors and co-workers from suffering one of the worst life setbacks (a failed retirement) imaginable.</p>
<p>Thanks for your question. Please take care.</p>
<p>Rob</p>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385772</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 16:28:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385772</guid>
		<description>First if you search on this website and the net there is a lot info regarding your questions topic, which couldn&#039;t be fully answered in one post. If you want to suggest an article, you probably need to email JD directly since I doubt he reads all the posts, now that he is a mini-tycoon planning his next adventure. As you referenced, college graduates are going to have different experiences depending on their current income, debt exposure, and money management behaviors. The easy answer would be make as much money as possible, spend way less than you make, pay off your debt, and save for future goals, and do things that make you happy. Keep reading the articles on this blog is also helpful.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>First if you search on this website and the net there is a lot info regarding your questions topic, which couldn&#8217;t be fully answered in one post. If you want to suggest an article, you probably need to email JD directly since I doubt he reads all the posts, now that he is a mini-tycoon planning his next adventure. As you referenced, college graduates are going to have different experiences depending on their current income, debt exposure, and money management behaviors. The easy answer would be make as much money as possible, spend way less than you make, pay off your debt, and save for future goals, and do things that make you happy. Keep reading the articles on this blog is also helpful.</p>
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		<title>By: Catherine</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385762</link>
		<dc:creator>Catherine</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 16:26:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385762</guid>
		<description>I do have an emergency account, but I can&#039;t decide how much to keep in it.  On one hand, I&#039;m serious about being financial independent and prepared for the worst.  On the other hand, I&#039;m being overly conservative because I have very few true financial obligations.  So, my ING account is basically for medical emergencies, and I wonder if I should be doing something more fun with some of it...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I do have an emergency account, but I can&#8217;t decide how much to keep in it.  On one hand, I&#8217;m serious about being financial independent and prepared for the worst.  On the other hand, I&#8217;m being overly conservative because I have very few true financial obligations.  So, my ING account is basically for medical emergencies, and I wonder if I should be doing something more fun with some of it&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385752</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 16:15:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385752</guid>
		<description>http://www.401khelpcenter.com/401k_education/Early_Dist_Options.html
This explains the 55 rules better. The funds you have in your old employer plan couldn&#039;t be tapped until 59 1/2. But you could roll the old employer plan into your current or future employer plan and maintain the same benefits. But at your age I would take a serious look at the fund choices and cost in your employer plan versus whats available in IRA, which are usually way cheaper and better. You could always fund a Roth IRA for the next 20+ years, contributions can be withdrawn tax free and look at the 72t(Substantially Equal Periodic Payments)rules as well for penalty free withdrawals from iras,401ks. http://www.obliviousinvestor.com/72t-distribution-rules/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.401khelpcenter.com/401k_education/Early_Dist_Options.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.401khelpcenter.com/401k_education/Early_Dist_Options.html</a><br />
This explains the 55 rules better. The funds you have in your old employer plan couldn&#8217;t be tapped until 59 1/2. But you could roll the old employer plan into your current or future employer plan and maintain the same benefits. But at your age I would take a serious look at the fund choices and cost in your employer plan versus whats available in IRA, which are usually way cheaper and better. You could always fund a Roth IRA for the next 20+ years, contributions can be withdrawn tax free and look at the 72t(Substantially Equal Periodic Payments)rules as well for penalty free withdrawals from iras,401ks. <a href="http://www.obliviousinvestor.com/72t-distribution-rules/" rel="nofollow">http://www.obliviousinvestor.com/72t-distribution-rules/</a></p>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385722</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 15:57:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385722</guid>
		<description>I disagree about the CPA. Unless you can find one on the cheap, doubtful. Most of this stuff can be navigated on your own with just a bit of research. I have done multiple rollovers without any problem. I think it depends on your comfort level.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I disagree about the CPA. Unless you can find one on the cheap, doubtful. Most of this stuff can be navigated on your own with just a bit of research. I have done multiple rollovers without any problem. I think it depends on your comfort level.</p>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2011/05/04/your-retirement-account-survival-guide/comment-page-1/#comment-1385702</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 May 2011 15:52:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/?p=82372#comment-1385702</guid>
		<description>Yes, vanguard has the lowest fees as well. As long as you have an emergency fund, that will cover 3-6 months expenses plus a minor set back, blown tire, etc...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes, vanguard has the lowest fees as well. As long as you have an emergency fund, that will cover 3-6 months expenses plus a minor set back, blown tire, etc&#8230;</p>
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