1. Whenever possible, get the shop to point out the part(s) they say need replacement – while still in place on your vehicle. Take note of their location(s) and what they look like, paying particular attention to any damage, trademarks, numbers, and/or labels visible on them (a cell phone photograph can be very useful here). Do this after you get the diagnosis and repair estimate, but before giving the green light to proceed. This is, of course, not possible for parts internal to the engine, transmission, etc, but it is useful when dealing with many “bolt-on” parts (e.g. an alternator or major air conditioning component, like the compressor).

2. Ask the shop/mechanic to explain what’s wrong with the part(s) said to need replacement. Don’t accept “it’s broken,” but get a brief explanation of what’s wrong (the part’s normal function and how it’s function is no longer normal), and the rationale used to reach the replacement decision. You may not be comfortable asking, and may not understand the explanation, but you’ll demonstrate that you’re scrutinizing their diagnosis and work, and that their work quality (and trustworthiness) is important. It also provides some “ammunition” for action against them after their work is done and the bill is paid, should it become necessary.

3. Ask them to clarify of the part(s): (a) if they can be rebuilt in their shop; (b) if they are available in a re-manufactured or third-party version; (c) the difference(s) in price and/or warranty between different versions available, if any; (d) if any part prices include a “core-charge,” requiring the original part(s) to be returned to a source to obtain the price(s) stated (not uncommon for some repairable parts such as alternators, air conditioning compressors, etc.); and (e) the labor warranty they provide on their work, regardless of any manufacturer’s part warranty (have them note on the bill any warranties not already on the bill). Choose the part option available that best fits your needs and wallet.

3. Several people mentioned this, so I will only emphasize – always (ALWAYS!) ask for the actual parts removed from your vehicle before they begin the work. Even if a core charge is involved, you should examine such part(s) before turning them over – there’s probably no reason to keep them but, if you followed suggestion #2, you will then have the opportunity to confirm that your original part was actually removed.

5. After the work is complete, but before paying the bill, examine your vehicle and the bill (look for inconsistencies and unexplained charges). Focus on the area(s) repaired, but look over the entire vehicle – look for any obviously loose or missing parts (caps, screws, nuts, bolts, hoses, electrical wires and fittings) or damage (repair-related or otherwise). Also verify that the part(s) the shop/mechanic said needed replacement in suggestion #1 were, in fact, replaced with the parts you agreed to have installed.

Google for: replacing brake light + honda accord
Not only brings up step-by-step instructions, but even a You Tube video on how to do it.

Even for problems that are beyond DIY realm, you can be better armed before going to the shop.

I had a Honda Prelude that, on hot days, would only start after sitting for 10 minutes.
Google: honda prelude does not start on hot days
And found out it is a common problem and knew if mechanic suggested something other than replacing the defective part, I should go else where.

It is difficult to change one of the light bulbs in the rear of my car, but I can do it. The lack of space for fingers is too small.

I have found Auto Zone most convenient for wipers and batteries.

I, too, am female. I learned early on that some shops try to charge me the “stupid woman price”. I send my hubby in for estimates as he gets a lower estimate if it is an unfamiliar shop. And I know more about cars than he does as my first husband was a mechanic. My first hubby and I did 4 or 5 engine rebuilds together!

Strange to go through his photostream and see stores that I knew very well growing up but have since been closed/shut down/whatever. Definitely made my morning, reliving a few old memories.

Thanks for picking that photograph out of a hat, whoever’s responsible.

AXLE

To be fair, if anybody male, female or transgender came into my shop, I would still confirm the problem /cause before I carried out any work. Especially if they said “the axel is broke….” You would be coming in on a tow truck.

I believe that the biggest issue in a lot of the cases above is an over exaggerated sense of ones own ability. Who would the customer blame if they replaced the part they were “told to” and the problem was not fixed?

If people know whats wrong, know what parts they need, and know how to fix it, why are you taking it to a shop?

Because of rules, regs, and past experience, most shops are NOT going to take the word of a customer that they have not built up a good history with. Because they WILL get burned.

Vehicle repair follows the same process each and every time;

Problem>Diagnose>Consult>Repair>Confirm

Yes there are scam artists, yes, they deserve to be exposed, but people need to find a trustworthy shop, and have confidence in them.
As stated, clarifying something is ok, and a decent shop would be cool with that.

I can’t speak for all shops but us techs don’t get paid for inspecting your vehicle and personally it takes me about a half hour to complete. That’s a half hour of my own time just to let you know whats going on under that car of yours. Where else can you go to get a certified professional to check out anything for free now-a-days? It’s totally your choice if you want the broken/worn/leaking part fixed/replaced, but isn’t it nice to know your shocks are leaking? I’m not saying get it replaced at the dealer, because, their rates are ridiculous. (I think ours are $150 an hour and I only get paid $9.50 but that’s a whole different rant)

If I was one of my customers, I would settle for the overpriced oil change from the dealer if it includes a free inspection and take the list of suggested repairs and take it to a trusted TECHNICIAN (there is a difference between techs and mechanics). If you do have friends who are techs, don’t take advantage of us, pay us. :]

Even the threat of of a complaint to a licensing agency can be very effective. Here in Michigan at least, threats of complaints to the BBB and the Attorney General rarely elicit much of a response. But whip out a Michigan Bureau of Automotive Regulation complaint form and start filling in blanks on the service manager’s desk, and suddenly a compromise may become possible.

It’s not just for auto repair either – it works with any service business that requires a license. In the past 20 years I’ve had to follow through on these threats against everything from auto repair shops to (federally-licensed) mortgage banks. Suddenly ongoing disputes were immediately and satisfactorily resolved in my favor.

Just make sure you know the exact name of the licensing agency – and use it. Thanks to the internet, that’s pretty easy to find. “I’ll report you to the state” or “I’ll file a complaint with the government” tells the offender you don’t really know who to report it too, and they will ignore it. But throw out names like State Bureau of Commercial Services or Federal Office of Thrift Supervision and I bet you see their eyes bug out a little.

I’m a car buff………..and that has got me wondering.

I’ve never heard those terms before.

this needs doing, etc, etc

thats where they make their money..

I think these are all great suggestions. I just want to add – don’t delay recommendations when your manual and/or mechanic indicate you’ve reached maintenance milestones, but you’re waiting to actually see your car broken down before you pull out your wallet. You will create much more costly repairs by skipping oil changes and refusing to pay for new brake pads.

Also, clean under your car’s hood periodically. Try to avoid parking and hygiene situations where mice/rats/bugs/maggots might end up in your car. I work on cars and you wouldn’t believe how foul some people are.

Advance Auto Parts and I believe Autozone both offer the following services for free:

Battery test and replacement.
Alternator testing, both on and off car.
Windshield Wiper Replacing.
Engine code reading (the code readers can be bought for yourself, but a lot of parts stores off the service at no charge and can give you the code)

I worked at Advance Auto Parts for a few years and I know that if we weren’t too very busy, we’d go out and swap out the bulbs for the customers too. It was recommended for us to do so because we’d get returns for bad headlights because the customers would touch the glass with their bare hands, which would get the oil on them and cause them to break.

If you’re having an issue at all, I’d say stop at a place like that first. Even if you’re having an issue where your car is running bad but don’t have a check engine light on because you may never know if the light is burned out.

I’m not saying everyone that works at a shop like that will be helpful, because sometimes they do have some bad employees. But (at least at Advance Auto Parts) we didn’t work on commission, so it didn’t matter to us what we were able to get you to buy. The only time we ever made money on selling was during promotions, but it was usually when there was a sale on that item or we had excess and we were told to push that inventory. But that was something along the lines of $0.25-1 per item.

It’s just good business practice to help out the customer instead of trying to rip them off and be rude to them.