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This is a guest post from former GRS staff writer Donna Freedman. She is currently a staff writer at Money Talks News, freelances for a number of magazines and PF sites, and blogs about money and midlife at DonnaFreedman.com.

In January 2007, I wrote an article about being recently divorced, helping to support a disabled adult child and working toward a university degree in my late 40s. “Surviving (and thriving) on $12,000 a year” went viral as readers (including J.D. Roth) demanded to know how, exactly, I could do that.

A new career - slashing your salary

This post generated more reaction than any other article published that year. The editor kept asking for more, and within eight months I was writing for MSN Money full-time.

Oh, the irony: Having barely enough to get by turned into a decently paid job. (Which was just as well, since I had legal debt from the protracted divorce.)

On September 11, 2013, Microsoft laid off all its writers. A couple of hours later I’d lined up more work – but not much of it. Having spent 10 years on a dead run, I decided to give myself the gift of slowing down. Translation: At age 55, I voluntarily cut my salary by nearly 58 percent.

Between the MSN gig and a couple of others, I’d been looking at earning at least $85,000 (probably more) in 2013. Not bad for a job I could do from home in my jammies.

Now my limited liability corporation salary is $36,000 per year. After taxes and essentials – including self-funded health insurance, a Roth IRA, my share of household expenses and a couple of carefully chosen indulgences – I’m left with $164 per month.

Defining a rich life

Normally, I’m not the kind of person who reveals her salary. But just as I did back in 2007, I’m opening the ledger to let people know that living on less is possible. My hope is to reach those who:

Are feeling the economic pinch: Maybe you’ve been laid off, need to help your elderly parents, have had your own kids move back in or just generally feel stressed about the ever-rising cost of living.

Are afraid to retire: As those costs edge up, you wonder whether your Social Security and other retirement monies will be enough.

Are questioning their quality of life: Maybe you’re longing to work less or change careers but worry you can’t live well on fewer dollars.

Whether you decide to change your life or whether you have change thrust upon you, know that it is possible to craft a meaningful and even joyous existence on less money. A rich life is not necessarily determined by the number of dollar signs it contains.

That said, let me be clear: Willful underemployment is not for everyone. I couldn’t do it myself if I had consumer debt, kids (or parents) who needed help, a mortgage or student loans. However, some of my cost-cutting tactics could help you trim your own budget. The money you save can be used to build an emergency fund, attack any consumer debt, do home or car repairs, or set aside money for retirement.

Partners in frugality

My partner, DF, is the only person I know who’s just as frugal as I am. Neither of us are “cheap,” i.e., we don’t make choices that affect our health or the health/enjoyment of others. But we see no reason to overspend.

He owns the home we share and I chip in $500 a month. In some regions – but obviously not all – that would be my half of the rent or mortgage. (When I first moved back to Anchorage, I paid $600 a month to share a friend’s home.)

We don’t have a TV, so no bill for cable, Netflix or Hulu Plus. I cover the costs of Internet and a basic landline because I need them for work. Last year, I ditched my $80-plus monthly cell plan in favor of a burn phone from the discount store. It costs $2 a day if I use it; otherwise, it costs nothing.

I’m budgeting $100 for my share of monthly groceries. We don’t dine on breast of free-range quail marinated in organic acai berries with Sevruga caviar foam, but we eat pretty darned well thanks to frugal hacks like:

  • Sales and coupons (only amateurs pay retail)
  • “Scratch and dent” foods and the bakery outlet (multigrain breads and sandwich rolls for as little as 50 cents)
  • Cooking from scratch (we rarely dine out) and eating seasonally (no $7.99-a-pound cherries in January)
  • Using every part of the food, including making soup stock from vegetable scraps and pan juices
  • Gardening and, to some extent, preserving food
  • Wild foods people sometimes share with us: moose, salmon, duck, ptarmigan, even bowhead whale
  • Buying in bulk from Costco: 20 pounds of dried beans, 50 pounds of flour, giant vats of laundry soap

More life costs

The heat stays between 62 and 64 degrees during the day and a little lower at night. Since my workaday attire tends to be sweatpants and a bathrobe, I get along just fine. We often use the fireplace insert for auxiliary heat (and ambiance!), burning wood we get from cutdowns in the yards of family and friends. DF sweeps the chimney himself.

Since we live half a mile from a bus line, I decided against buying a car. This is a huge money-saver; according to AAA, the cost of auto ownership ranges from $6,967 to $11,599 per year.

I rarely shop because I just don’t care about clothes. Outside the house, I mostly wear thrift-store jeans and shirts. The last time I bought dress slacks was for a 2004 divorce court hearing (Nordstrom Rack, less than $30).

Foot issues means I do buy decent walking shoes, which I wear just about everyplace (including the opera). Sale price + online coupon + cash-back shopping means I pay $70 to $80 per pair – still expensive, but so is a podiatrist.

I use discounted gift cards bought on the secondary market to pay for haircuts, groceries, toiletries, movie tickets and home-improvement items. Sometimes I can buy the cut-rate cards through the cash-back site – frugal double-dipping!

Entertainment, travel and gifts (the frugal way)

Almost all Christmas and birthday presents are paid for with gift cards I got from rewards credit cards and a couple of online rewards programs (My Points, Swagbucks). This has saved me many hundreds of dollars.

Entertainment is another series of frugal hacks. It costs nothing to read, walk, listen to music, or play cribbage or Scrabble. In addition:

  • I write theater reviews for the local newspaper, which means two free tickets and a $60 honorarium.
  • For movies, I go on cheap Tuesday or hit the second-run house. I usually pay with discounted gift cards. If I write about movies for my website (e.g., “5 financial lessons from ‘Parsifal’”), the ticket becomes a business expense.
  • DF is a member of the Anchorage Museum; reciprocal programs let me visit museums in other states for free.

Like many people, I redeem frequent-flier miles and use travel websites to find the best deals. I try to house-sit or stay in hostels. Rather than rent a car, I use public transit and the Megabus. If I meet with an editor on the road, I’ll deduct a portion of travel costs.

My other regular treats are seven or eight haircuts a year and a monthly two-hour massage (no machine runs for 56 years without some maintenance issues). I also watch for massage specials.

But what about retirement?

Some pundits say you need more than a million bucks to retire; others say “nuh-uh!” Right now I’ve got a little more than one-third of that mythic million in several funds: a 401(k) from my newspapering days, a Roth IRA, some CDs and a brand-new 401(k) funded by my LLC.

I could be four-fifths of the way there by age 70 if I keep paying at my current rate and my funds keep growing at the current rate. Or maybe all of the way there, if each account performs like a bull-market boss. Or I could wind up on the wrong side of a market plunge, like those folks who retired shortly before the big bang of 2008.

There’s also Social Security plus a $550 monthly pension from my newspapering days. Other assets include:

  • Liquid savings of about $40,000
  • The annual Alaska Permanent Fund Dividend check (estimated at $1,800 this year)
  • The possibility of increasing contributions to my new 401(k)

Will all this be enough? No one knows. Just ask those 2008 retirees.

Quality of life: It matters

Here’s what I do know: I’m 56 and my partner is 63, and every day we read obits for people our age (or far younger) who succumbed to heart attacks, cancer or auto accidents – or, this being Alaska, to plane crashes, hypothermia, climbing accidents, drownings and bear maulings. Thus we have vowed to use a mix of frugal hacks and positive thinking to live the best life we can on what we have.

This plan could work really well. It could also be felled by illness, incapacity, recession or a complete drought in the freelance market. But we’re not going to let the what-ifs keep us from living while it is yet possible to live.

Neither DF nor I mind spending on what’s important to us: our families, music, theater, decent shoes, a piano-tuning (him), a blog domain name (me). But both of us are practical and inventive people who can find our way through most problems without opening our wallets. Right now we have everything we need and much of what we want, which is a blessed place to be.

The quality of our days matters as much as the quantity. It’s wonderful to meet him at the door with a smile and a kiss instead of the neck-knotting worry that I haven’t done enough work yet. I no longer spend four or five evenings a week online, ignoring the lovely man sitting patiently (but forlornly) in the same room.

The formerly constant stress is gone, replaced by something I couldn’t recognize. Finally I realized it was … happiness. It’s not that I’ve never been happy before. But I’ve never experienced it as such a consistent sweetness to my days. That’s worth a lot.

I once wrote that stability is a story we repeat to make ourselves feel better about staying exactly where we are. Suppose I had taken the first 9-to-5 I could get after fleeing an abusive marriage back in 2004? That would have been stable. (Maybe. Lots of jobs were lost after 2008.)

But if I’d done that, I wouldn’t be where I am now. Back then I was uneducated and emotionally broken. Now I’m a confident online journalist with a distinct voice and the chance to help others. E-mails like “I’m out of debt because of you” or “I’m back in school because of you” make me dance around the house in those sweatpants, yelping “This is why I do what I do.”

Do I miss the bigger bucks? Sure. Sometimes I wish I could send my daughter and son-in-law a $50 gift card just because, or buy treats for my great-nephews, or fly to the East Coast to visit family whenever I want.

But I’ll live. I mean that in the literal sense. While I’m fully aware of what I’m giving up, I’m much more aware of what I’m gaining. Love. Time. A job that makes a difference. In other words, happiness – so welcome and so wanted, even if it did take 10 years to get here. Now let’s see where the next 10 years take me.

This article is about Choices, Frugality

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This article is by staff writer Kristin Wong.

Landlords and property owners have their fair share of problems: They have to manage, accommodate, repair, etc., their property. It’s a lot of responsibility, and with great responsibility comes great headache.

But it ain’t all roses for renters, either. We’ve got rent increases, security deposits, and unannounced, inescapable construction. Last Saturday, I woke up to the sound of drilling on the wall next to which I sleep. It was 7:30 in the ever-loving morning!

As a renter, there are a handful of important laws and considerations that many of us overlook. At least, I know I’ve overlooked them. So I figured they were worth sharing. Here are some money-related things to keep in mind if you are a renter.

There’s a high and low season for renting

I never really thought about this, but it makes sense. There’s a busy season for renting, and, according to Apartment Guide, it’s between May and September.

“If you’ve got the flexibility, winter could be the best time of year for a move. Following the busy holiday season when most people are tuckered out (and their bank accounts are running low), fewer renters make a move. Because demand for apartments is lower, you may find a hot deal on rent during the cooler months.”

Rental site RentHop studied some data and found that November, specifically, was the best time to look for an apartment. They also found that morning was the best time to hunt online for apartments, as most brokers post between 9 and 10 a.m.

Renter’s insurance is worth it

For the coverage you get, renter’s insurance is a pretty good deal. Depending on your policy, you’re covered for personal property theft, damage from natural disaster, liability if someone hurts themselves in your place, relocation expenses — in some cases, you’re even covered if someone steals something from your car.

And the average cost of a standard policy? Less than $15 a month. According to the Independent Insurance Agents & Brokers of America:

“…renters insurance policies cost as little as $10 per month. The average cost of renters insurance is $12 per month for about $30,000 of property coverage and $100,000 of liability coverage.”

Not bad. Yet, in their recent poll, they found that two-thirds of renters don’t have it. Another perk of renter’s insurance? You might qualify for a multi-policy discount if you go through your auto insurance carrier. That makes that low premium even lower.

Your security deposit might have a limit

Depending on your state, your landlord is only allowed to charge you a certain amount for your security deposit. This might seem obvious, but it helps to know what the limits are in your state. You can find them here.

Document everything

Document repairs, broken appliances and fixtures — everything. Take pictures. Send emails. Save receipts. Should an issue arise, this will make the process of finding a solution a lot smoother. For example, let’s say your apartment management company charges you for a damaged tub that you complained about repeatedly but they never bothered to fix (ahem). Well, if you have photos and email evidence, it makes it a lot easier to prove your case and get your deposit back.

I always feel more motivated to document everything when I rent from a company rather than an individual. It’s easy for a company to hide behind clerical errors or miscommunication. Having proof can help get the issue resolved quicker.

You can negotiate your rent

I haven’t tried this, but I really, really want to. I can’t imagine a world in which you ask for cheaper rent and your wish is granted. But apparently it happens.

I’ve read about how to negotiate rent and, when people tell me they’ve actually done it in real life, I’m always impressed. Here are a few tips for doing it effectively:

  • Offer to pay months’ worth of rent up front

  • Sign a longer lease

  • Offer referrals

Security deposit interest

Depending on your area, you might be able to get a return on interest earned on your security deposit. For example, in Los Angeles:

“Since 2004, interest payable to tenants may be determined in two ways: 1) use the simple interest rate established by the Rent Adjustment Commission; or 2) pay the tenant the actual amount earned on the security deposit. If the second method is used, the landlord must provide the tenant with a copy of a bank statement indicating the interest earned on their deposit for the year.”

The amount might not be much, but it could be worth looking into. In Los Angeles, our apartment company is allowed to pass along a small fee from the city to the renters each year. It’s something like $5, but I balk at it every time.

If that’s worth balking at, perhaps my interest is worth asking about too.

When you’re a renter, it might seem you’re at the mercy of your property owners. And many times, you are. But you may have more tenant rights than you think. And, in general, there are at least a few simple ways to look out for your finances.


This article is by staff writer William Cowie.

What was your first reaction when you saw “salvage title” in the headline? Cringe and shudder? Outrage, that anybody could seriously suggest something so risky on a respectable site like this? In mixed company, no less? Step away from the ledge, slowly, exhale, and then hear me out.

I used to feel the same way … until my friend Peter showed me his “new” 4Runner. Peter is a super-frugalista, and he saw the surprise in my eyes. He laughed, “Hey, it’s a salvage title — I got it real cheap.” He bought his son one of those, seven years back, and that car has run problem-free all that time. So he thought, “Why not get one for myself?”

Why not, indeed?

What is a salvage title?

It begins with what people sometimes refer to as a car being “totaled” or “written off.” “Total” is simply shorthand for “total loss,” meaning the amount an insurance company pays out for the car’s full insured value. Most often, it’s a collision that causes a car to be totaled; but they can also be totaled after a fire, flood, hail, or even theft. (If a car is stolen and not recovered for three to four weeks, depending on the jurisdiction, the insurance companies have to pay the insured, which, of course, turns the theft into a total loss.)

Insurance companies typically total a car damaged by accident, fire, hail or flood when that damage is greater than its value. They naturally want to pay the smallest amount possible and, if that’s the value of the car, then that’s what they pay. When they do that, they effectively buy the car and its title passes to them. If they subsequently sell it, they are required to sell it with what’s called a salvage title.

Why even consider a salvage title?

A car only gets a salvage title when something bad happened to it. Buying a used car is such a crapshoot to begin with, why compound that by even thinking about buying one with a salvage title?

One word, the word we associate most with Get Rich Slowly — “money.”

A fully repaired car with a salvage title typically sells for 30 to 40 percent less than one with a clean title. If you were eyeing that $15,000 used minivan, a comparable (i.e., fully repaired) one with a salvage title would typically go for $9,000. That’s a savings of $6,000.

That’s a pretty compelling number if you’re interested to save money.

I don’t know if you heard, but someone just paid more than $30 million for a used Ferrari at the Pebble Beach auctions last week. The car was in a major wreck, but it was restored. The point is: a wreck doesn’t necessarily mean the utter demise of a car. Any car can be repaired or restored to mint condition. The trick, of course, is not to overspend – and to know it was done right.

Does a salvage title make sense for you?

The first thing you need to do is find out if your state allows vehicles with a salvage title on the road. Colorado, where I live, does. (That’s how I found out about it.) So, if your state allows it, you could potentially save a lot of money on your next car if you are one of the following kinds of people:

1. You drive your cars for many years. A salvage title stays with the car for the rest of its life. If you bought it for 60 percent of its normal value, you will only be able to get 60 percent of its normal value when you sell it. The longer you drive the car, the smaller the penalty at the time of selling. The net result is that you save a lot when you keep it for a long time. However, if you sell your car every two or three years, your savings at the time of buying will be negated at the time of selling, when you’ll have a harder time trying to sell it and you’ll have to take less. (In most states, sellers have to disclose a salvage title at the time of sale.)

Also keep in mind that most dealers will not take a car with a salvage title as a trade-in.

None of those issues present a problem if you plan to drive the car into the ground and then give it to your son going off to college in thirty five years’ time. :)

2. You usually buy older cars to begin with. The cost to repair a new car is not much different than repairing an older car. That means it will take pretty extensive damage to a fairly new car to get it totaled, because it’s still quite valuable. On the other hand, an older car is worth much less, even if it’s in good condition, and it doesn’t take much in the way of damage to get the insurance company to total it. In fact, a fender bender will often do it.

What that means is you can save 30 to 40 percent on an older car with a salvage title that has suffered only minor damage. (It’s a good general rule to stay away from salvage-title cars less than three or four years old.)

3. You’re not afraid to do some repair work yourself. If you know your way around a junk yard and you’re not averse to scraping your knuckles a bit, you can save even more than the 30 to 40 percent by buying a salvage-title car that hasn’t been fully repaired yet. If you can figure the cost of the repairs still needed, you deduct that from the 60 to 70 percent before you make your offer. Then you add some weekend and evening sweat equity to add that value back to the car – and you know the quality of the work that’s been done.

Buying a car with a salvage title is obviously not appropriate for everyone, and this post doesn’t try to make that point. All I hope to do is spotlight an option you may not have considered before but which might work for you.

Tips for buying a salvage-title car

As the saying goes, there’s no free lunch. In order to capture the gain of having a serviceable car at a 30 to 40 percent discount, you have to put in some time you wouldn’t ordinarily spend. Remember your first reaction above when you first heard the term “salvage title”? Everyone you deal with will have the same reaction. And because they’re not getting a big discount on their purchase, they don’t have any incentive to stray outside the box to accommodate you. That means more work for you.

1. Negotiate. Sellers will try to slide by with a discount of, like, 15 to 20 percent on the normal price, hoping buyers won’t know the appropriate discount from normal. Salvage-title vehicles is a buyer’s market; be sure to pursue the maximum advantage.

2. Financing: You should be able to get financing for a car with a salvage title, but it won’t be nearly as easy as for one with a regular title. The bank’s problem is the resale value of the car, which is much less than that of a comparable car with no title problems. If you are paying a lot less for the car to begin with, this isn’t that much of a problem. Expect to do more shopping, though. Personally, I think cash is the best way to buy a salvage-titled car, especially because of the next point.

3. Insurance: Insurance companies, for the most part, won’t offer the comprehensive insurance lenders require. They will offer collision and liability coverage; but, again, expect some push-back and more time shopping around for insurance. If you buy an older car for cheap, your insurance requirements aren’t that much, and you can get what you need. Most insurance companies will insure salvage titles cars just fine. Just be mindful that for them there’s not much difference in repair costs; so don’t expect any price break, even though your car was a lot cheaper than a comparable “regular” car.

4. History: Before you even make an offer on a car with a salvage title, you would be well advised to spend the time necessary to track the entire history of the car’s title. In particular, it’s important to find out (not from the person trying to sell you the car) what happened: what type of crash and the extent of the damage. CARFAX is a good starting point, but expect to do more digging.

Also included in the history research is the seller. Some businesses who sell salvage-title cars are reputable; others are not. Be sure to check with the Better Business Bureau to see if this seller has had issues.

5. Inspection: It is good practice to have a professional inspect any used car you’re interested in buying. Although it may cost a hundred or two, I look at that as insurance: It’s much better to find out about any defects before you plonk down your money. If it’s a good idea for all used cars, it’s essential for a salvage titled car. In particular, you need to have someone check out the wheel alignment. In the old days, they used to talk about frame damage, but most of today’s cars don’t have frames any more — the entire body acts as the frame. If the axles get twisted out of alignment, the car is a pain to drive and it will double your tire wear. A body shop inspection will quickly reveal if that’s a problem or not.

6. Pre-registration: Some states require a police inspection and a certificate from the police before they will register a car with a salvage title. This is aimed at making it difficult for stolen cars to get back into circulation. You will need to do your homework on this issue before making your purchase as well.

In conclusion

Good wisdom says even if you buy a clean-titled, used car you should do most of these things (e.g., have someone check out the car and research the title history) so the additional legwork might not be that much for you.

My wife and I tend to buy used cars and then keep them till they’re seriously long in the tooth, and then we give them away. Given the success my friend had with his salvage-title car, I’m seriously going to consider going that route next time we buy. The key, I believe, is to be very careful and to be prepared to kiss many frogs before finding the salvage-title prince.

Like many things in life, there’s a reward for risk and/or hard work. If you’re prepared to consider buying your next car with a salvage title, you may be able to pocket a significant savings. It’s not for everyone, obviously, but it’s nice to know an option like this exists.


This post is by staff writer Honey Smith.

Just because two people hear the same word or phrase, doesn’t mean that they are conceptualizing the same thing. For example, I live in the desert, so when I say that it’s “cold,” it’s a pretty safe bet that I’m talking about something different than the person who lives in Vermont. Similarly, if I say it’s “humid,” I am probably not thinking about the same thing as the person who lives in Florida.

It comes down to the difference between denotation and connotation. “Denotation” refers to something’s definition or literal meaning. “Connotation,” on the other hand, refers to what we associate with the use of a particular term. Connotations can be cultural in nature, though they may be based on personal experience. They can also evoke strong emotions (positive or negative), in both the speaker and the listener.

I have noticed this tendency come into play right here in the comments of GRS. “Get Rich Slowly” is the name of the site, but what do those words mean? What, exactly, is “rich”? What do I think “slowly” means? Is that the same time frame you have in mind? Why does it matter, anyway?

What it means to “get rich”

Does “rich” mean a million bucks? Does it mean homeownership? Does it mean financial independence? Is being rich even something that can be restricted to money? “Financial independence” seems to be rising to prominence as the preferred term in personal finance circles these days (as opposed to a term like “retirement”). I think that is in part because it assumes a more encompassing understanding of the term “rich” than simply money. For example, “financial independence” assumes something about how you spend your time.

For one thing, “financial independence” assumes that you may still be interested to work. However, when you no longer have to spend nine hours a day earning the money you need to survive, then you are free to spend that time on other things whether it’s part-time work, a change in fields, volunteering your time to a cause that’s near and dear to you, or spending time with friends and family.

“Rich” implies something else completely, at least to me. When I think of “rich,” I always think of Scrooge McDuck swimming in his vault of gold coins. In other words, to me the term “rich” has a tinge of selfishness. It calls to mind someone who has more than enough money to do anything they want, but who doesn’t give — of time or money. Given the connotation I apply to the terms “rich” and “financially independent,” I know which I’d rather be.

What it means to get rich “slowly”

At what pace do you have to be moving to be slow? If you’re still in the debt-payoff phase, should you allocate all your discretionary spending possible toward that goal in order to get out of debt as quickly as possible? Do you have to be gazelle-intense, or is it okay to pay off your debt at a slower pace so that you can allocate some funds toward wants?

And if you’re in the asset-accumulation phase, is it okay to act like a corporation, obligated to make every decision with an eye toward shareholder profit? Do we have a duty to live up to our potential? Or is it okay to take a lower-paying job that you enjoy in order to create the life you want? What if it means that you are still dependent on a paycheck and may have to work until you reach retirement age, or even later?

It’s like the saying goes, anyone who drives slower than you is an idiot and anyone who drives faster than you is a maniac. As long as you are moving at a pace that works for you, why does it matter to you what other people think of your progress? Why would you care about the pace of other people’s progress? Does it make a difference if they’re your friend or family as opposed to a stranger? Does it matter if they have dependents, or if they’re dependent on others? Is there morality in personal finance?

Why you should do what works for you

Do what works for you is one of the fourteen core tenets of Get Rich Slowly. At the end of that article, J.D. Roth says:

“Don’t listen to anyone who tells you there’s just one right way to do something. Each person is different. What works for one person may not work for another. Be willing to experiment until you find methods that are suited to your life.

“Make informed choices, understand the consequences, and focus on your goals.”

This doesn’t mean that you don’t have things to learn from other people. I think it’s always important to consider how other people’s methods and circumstances can inform your own. Sometimes, you’ll find the best tips and tricks come from those you have a lot in common with. Other times, you’ll find that stories from someone in completely different circumstances and with radically different values can change your perspective for the better.

Doing what works for you means letting go of your fears about what other people might think about your decisions. However, it means letting go of your fears because you have carefully considered all the options and are making the best decision for you and your circumstances. It means that your spending matches your values. Being certain that you are doing what works for you doesn’t mean that you become certain about what other people should do. It doesn’t mean your way is the only way.

Final thoughts

In a way, the key to success is selfishness. Don’t be influenced by the connotation “selfishness” has for being a bad thing. It can be good! “Selfishness” means that you shouldn’t be afraid to take tips or learn from anyone who might help you reach your goals. You also shouldn’t let your goals be dictated to you by friends, family, or society at large. However, if being selfish means being primarily concerned with your own welfare, then it also means not judging other people for having different priorities than you (assuming their priorities don’t harm others).

What does “success” mean to you? What does it mean to be rich? Is it okay to get rich slowly? How slowly? What if you never want to be rich, or you want to get rich as quickly as possible?


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