How to Get the Best Rates on Your Savings — Safely
Published on - February 16th, 2010 (Modified on - August 29th, 2011) (by J.D. Roth) Over the past year, one of the frequent questions I get is: “Where I can safely invest my money to get a decent return?” For example, Joseph wrote in November:
Around February/March I should have $5,000 to invest. My debts are under control and my wife and I have lowered our monthly expenses. I was wondering if you had any advice on ways to invest $5,000? I don’t want a savings account because the interest rates are just sad, but I don’t know if a certificate of deposit or money market account is worth the effort.
Or take this e-mail I got from MG just last week:
How about addressing how to invest $5,000, $10,000, or $15,000 these days? With high-yield savings rates getting lower and lower and the stock market not doing so well either, what would you recommend?
Because the stock market has been so volatile over the past fifteen years, a lot of people are scared to invest. Or they just want to find safe places to put part of their money in the short term. Unfortunately, it’s not like new ways to invest safely are being invented. If you want your money to be safe, you’ve basically got the same tried-and-true investments you’re already familiar with.
Two recent articles in national magazines addressed this subject. Let’s look at their advice.
Advice from Consumer Reports
The March 2010 issue of Consumer Reports has a great article on finding the best rates on your savings. They start the same place we all start: bank accounts. Here’s what Consumer Reports recommends:
- Compare bank yields. They recommend checking out rates at Colorado Federal Savings Bank, Capital One Direct, and Bank of Internet, as well as old stand-bys like Ally Bank and FNBO Direct. But remember: Sometimes the best place to earn money on your savings is in a checking account. You can use CheckingFinder to track down deals on rewards checking accounts around the country.
- Be cautious about bonds. Bonds continue to be one of my blind spots, though I’m learning more about them as time goes on. The Consumer Reports article cautions against bonds right now because their long-term outlook isn’t very good. If you’re interested in bonds, consider Treasury Inflation-Protected Securities (TIPS), which give a modest return but offer built-in protection against inflation. (I’ve got a small post for later today that looks at I Bonds, which also protect against inflation.)
- Look at stock dividends. Some stocks pay regular dividends to shareholders, dishing out five or six percent a year. That’s probably way more than your bank pays on savings, but it also exposes you to added risk. You can reduce this risk by diversifying: Buy a mutual fund with high dividends instead of individual stocks. Examples include XLU (a utilities sector exchange-traded fund with a 4.31% yield), TWEIX (American Century Equity Income fund, yielding 2.77%), VEIPX (Vanguard Equity Income fund, yielding 3.14%), and VWNFX (Vanguard Windsor II fund, yielding 2.33%).
To be honest, I’m not sure that chasing stock dividends is the best way to get safe savings. Yes, I believe the market will increase over the long term, but folks who want safe harbors are usually looking to avoid risk, and over the short term, stock funds are risky, even if they do have nice dividends.
The article suggests another option, one that I happen to like a lot. Because yields are so low right now, it can make sense to use your money to pay down your mortgage instead. You shouldn’t do this if you don’t have emergency savings yet, but if you’re near retirement or you’re still paying private mortgage insurance, this can be an especially great use of your savings dollars.
Advice from Kiplinger’s
The March 2010 issue of Kiplinger’s Personal Finance has a small section on finding better rates. Their advice? “Start by looking online. Ally Bank is paying 1.5% 1.44% on savings — way north of the 0.23% average rate on money-market funds.”
Kiplinger’s recommends taking on a little more risk in order to get better rates. In particular, the magazine suggests:
- Vanguard Short-Term Investment-Grade Bond Fund (VFSTX), which has a 3.78% yield as of the end of January. (This fund has a $3,000 minimum investment.)
- Fidelity Intermediate Municipal Income Fund (FLTMX), which has a 3.50% yield, but offers tax advantages. (But there’s a $10,000 minimum investment.)
- Fidelity GNMA Fund (FGMNX, which owns home mortgages, currently has a 3.68% yield. (This fund has a $2,500 minimum investment; $500 for IRAs.)
For safe savings, bond funds may make more sense than stock funds, but I still think they’re riskier than most people in this situation are after. I guess it depends on what your goals are.
The bottom line
As you prepare to save, you need to ask yourself a few questions:
- What are your goals with this money? If you’re saving for retirement, stashing money in a savings account probably isn’t the best way to go about it. You’re not going to get the returns you need. In fact, you’ll barely keep up with inflation.
- How much risk can you tolerate? Risk and return are intertwined. If you want high rates of return, you’re not going to get them with safe investments. To do that, you’ve got to be willing to tolerate ups and downs. If you’re okay giving up potential gains in order to protect your money, then there are a variety of options.
- How liquid do you need the money to be? That is, do you want easy access to the money? Some investments — like certificates of deposit and savings bonds — can offer higher rates of return — if you promise not to touch the money for months or years.
Where do you put money that you want to keep safe? Do you even worry about returns? How can GRS readers find a good balance between safety and earnings?
This website may receive payment by the companies mentioned in this blog.
This article is about Ask the Readers, Investing, Savings
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I have had an ING savings account for a long time and I have really been pleased with it. I also opened a Sharebuilder account because I could link them. Their service seems good and it is relatively easy to link additional accounts at other banks.
I really do not have other savings accounts, other than ING, but so far there has been no reason.
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I’ve got ING too. That’s the only place I keep my savings because of the “high” interest rate. I’ve been very pleased with them too!
I can’t wait for interest rates to go back up!
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“This website may receive payment by the companies mentioned in this blog” Really, J.D.??? Say it ain’t so! I can deal with advertising, but paid endorsements? Please offer your readers an explanation.
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We just got to join USAA!!!!!! (alert…they’ve opened it up to anyone who was honorably discharged from the military without time restrictions)
Slowly but surely we are moving most everything over there. Auto insurance is next.
And I couldn’t be happier.
Well, I’ll be happier if I figure out how to do wire transfers between USAA and a foreign bank.
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I’m surprised no mention of CDs in the article. My husband and I have three CDs right now with different maturity dates (6 months, 9 months and 2 years) all at just over 2% interest. We plan on using these savings in the next few years, so we just wanted a safe return. All our retirement savings are in target date retirement index funds. We have USAA banking and are very happy with them.
I am really looking forward to your piece on I Bonds. I’m planning on opening 529 plans when we have kids and I’m leaning toward safety over high returns, so I Bonds and TIPS seem appealing.
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Sakoro: That’s pretty much a standard for personal finance blogs (including my own).
For example, when they link to Ally Bank, ING, or Lending Club, they’re almost always doing it with affiliate links, meaning they receive a commission if you open an account through the link.
It’s actually noteworthy that JD includes many links to banks that have no affiliate program–many PF bloggers limit their mentions exclusively to companies with such programs.
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I’ve been with ING for more than 4 years and am quite happy. There are other banks out there that offer a little bit more occasionally, but they’re not worth the effort.
That said, I will grab a good deal if I can get it.
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I use USAA and ING Direct for all my banking. I have been on the lookout for someplace to get a better return. The !.2% at ING isn’t great, and their short term CDs aren’t any better. I’ve thought some about peer to peer lending, but I haven’t decided how I feel about it.
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I am amazed how little know about Zopa. This is a great way to earn interest at significant levels by lending to other people. Zopa take a 1% slice of the action (to pay for credit scoring, debt recovery and their very clever web site). I have been using it for over a year with no bad debts and an income of over 7%. I have written more about my experience with ZOPA here:-
http://www.mysipp.net/create-income-become-a-bank/
Basically, by using a $10 maximum loan share your risk is reduced greatly.
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I have been saving with ING for over three years now and even though the interest rates have been steadily decreasing, I have stayed because of their excellent user interface, great customer service, ease of transfers, and use of sub accounts. I will continue to recommend them to my friends.
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I think people are often confused by the difference between savings and investments, probably because people usually call it “saving for retirement” when what they are often doing is investing money for retirement.
At any rate I like the tip about looking at high yield checking accounts as a possible source of higher interest rates
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I’m in a similar situation – I want to put away my tax refund to start a “house downpayment” fund, but with ING Savings at a low 1.2%, CDs at low percentage for the required lock away time, it almost looks like an index fund is the best route to go.
Meaning, I have to hope the gains from the stocks over the next 5 years (when I estimate getting a home) minus capital gains taxes are greater than the CD interest rate.
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I have been a long time fan of ING, but their recent anemic returns have me looking elsewhere.
In this instance, I agree with Kiplinger’s advice to look into Municipal bonds. Although there is some risk associated with any bonds, Muni’s have the advantage that the interest they earn is tax free. I’m getting 3.74% right now, but that’s equivalent of a taxed account at 5.75%.
They may not work for the OP, as they often have high minimum investments.
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Our main “investment” right now is actually our emergency fund, so we don’t want to tie that up in CDs. We got in on one of the last high-rate checking reward accounts at 4.5%, and it’s locked there until May — definitely worth the hassle of setting it all up. After that rate expires, it’s probably going back to HSBC Direct (or Advance, or whatever they are now)
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First I note there is not enough information to make a suggestion. Is this money for a down payment on a house? Does the person mean to start their retirement savings? These are very different goals, and the approach is probably not going to be the same.
I’ll throw out dollarsavingsdirect.com as another good online savings account. Better interest than ING for pretty much as long as I’ve held the account.
Another possibility, if your politics swing that way, is NRAbankingcenter.com. They don’t have as good an online banking interface, but they are the only online savings account that gave me an ATM card (although it’s possible I could have requested one for my other accounts–don’t know). I like them for my “I need cash right now” emergency cash and keep $500 there all the time since that is often the one-day limit on an ATM withdrawal. Better rate currently than dollarsavingsdirect.com.
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I think in the spirit of transparency, you should disclose the specific banks you recieve money via endorcements/affliation. I always hate when people use a blanket disclaimer. As you are a blogger with a great deal of creditability and clout, it throws your recommendations in doubt when you say that you may have been paid to make them (and don’t disclose what they are).
Pundits on tv give full disclosure when they talk about a stock or company they own/work for, and while the disclaimer is a start I feel like it is lacking in transparency.
Just my 2 cents, love the blog though.
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@Sakoro (#3)
I appreciate your concern, but I wouldn’t classify any of the affiliate links in this article (or any other article I write) as “paid endorsements”. (I’m not endorsing Ally Bank or FNBO Direct, for example; I don’t know enough about them to do so. ING Direct? Well, I endorse them, but that’s because I use them and like them.) You may classify them this way, but I don’t. To me, a paid endorsement is when somebody says, “Pssst. We’ll pay you $xx of you write about us.” and I say yes. That’s not how I choose what I write. (And I’m not necessarily saying paid endorsements are wrong in all cases; they’re just not right for me.)
I write my articles first and then look to see if there are affiliate programs available. In this case, I wrote about the things Kiplinger’s and Consumer Reports mentioned, and then added affiliate links for a few of the banks.
This is the same thing I’ve been doing for years (and have been public about for years), and, as Mike Piper (#6) says, this is standard practice for personal finance blogs.
I apologize if this bugs you, but all I can do is promise that I do my best to not let affiliate programs sway my editorial content; if I did, I’d be writing about peer-to-peer lending all the time, and be ramming Ally Bank down your throat. I’d be writing about credit cards every day and pimping the latest tax software. I do include affiliate links — no question! — but only when they’re relevant to what I’ve written.
Does that make sense?
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Our emergency fund (about 6 mos worth) is in a credit union money market drawing about 2%.
The rest is invested. About half of our overall investments are in retirement vehicles spread among lousy mutual funds in the 401k to individual stocks for the Roth. The rest of our non-retirement money is in stocks through a discount broker and one decent sized chunk in an S&P index fund. Most of the individual stocks are dividend bearing and bought when companies were at nice, low prices – MCD paying 4%, GE paying 6%, GSK paying 5%, VZ paying 6.6%, XOM paying 2.6%, BP paying 5%, MMM paying 3%, etc Now I know there is a chance these dividends could be cut, but there’s also a good chance that these companies will NOT cut dividends. There balance sheets show enough cash flow and reserves to continue to pay out the dividends and increase them regularly. Also the likelihood of bankruptcy is there, but it is very low. That’s also why the money is spread around – just in case there is another Enron out there.
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@JL (#16)
In this article, the links for Ally Bank, FNBO Direct, and ING Direct are affiliate links. If there were an elegant way to flag just the affiliate links, I’d use it. (And there may be — I just haven’t figured it out yet.)
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J.D., you could double-underline affiliate links. Easy CSS, and pretty common practice.
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We use ING Direct for our checking and savings accounts and have been very happy customers since 2005. We also have a Scottrade account we use to invest in high-yield dividend stocks (Pepsi just increased their dividend). Our Roth IRA has been making great returns with a Fidelity target date fund and my 401k has been doing well in a Vanguard target date fund (not quite as well as Fidelity, but that isn’t an option with my 401k).
We are now considering transferring our emergency fund over to Smarty Pig since they have an APY of 2.01% right now…has anyone used Smarty Pig? Any criticisms we should know about? Thanks in advance.
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Sadly, these days a high yield savings account is in name only. When I bought a house (1990), mortgages were an eye-popping 10%, but my Vanguard money market was paying 9%. Now, mortgages are about 5%, but you only get 1% or so on your savings. I’ve never seen a spread like that. That spread, by the way, indicates why banks did so well last year: they could invest in Treasuries at 3%, while paying out almost nothing to their savers.
And as for the stock markets super returns–those too are eye-popping, but only since the low of MArch 2009. Long-term investors are still down over a 10 year period.
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@Tyler #12
Check out SmartyPig (www.smartypig.com) I’ve been using them for a while and they are great. Right now, I am saving for a house down payment and the interest rate there is 2.01% (and has been for over a year w/out going down). The customer service is great and there is even a chart to track your progress towards your goal.
No CD I have seen recently is over 2%, so I will continue to stay at SmartyPig (and ING for EF savings).
P.S. To Crystal #20 There are only 2 downsides (if you consider them to be) IMO: It actually takes 3 full days to transfer the money and if you want to take money out, you have to take it all at once and close the goal. This works well for me because it makes me stop and think before deciding if something is enough of an emergency to take the money, but this is why I have some $$ at ING in case I need it NOW!
If you have any questions, SmartyPig has the nicest (real!) people who answer the phone which is what made me finally decide to open an account. I am definitely NOT being paid by the site, btw, I just have really loved it!
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I think its important to consider the sales charges (loads) and expenses associated with any mutual fund in which you invest. They represent an above the line deduction from your return. The Vanguard & Fidelity funds you mention are all great: they are no-load and have annual expenses of .21%, .38%, & .45% respectively. However, there are a lot of funds out there that charge 3-5% loads and up to 1-2% additional for annual expenses. That’s a 4-7% deduction from your return.
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Well, as one other commenter said, it all depends…on what you want for that money: short, mid or long term savings/investments. For short, you wouldn’t usually put it in a stock or mutual fund as the horizon on that is mid or long term (except for income producing – yet another category). I think it is important to know the timeframe in which you desire to use the money in order to determine the best place to put it.
Example: I have money to buy a house for cash in a 2 year CD – I won’t need the money for 2 years and can afford to ‘lock-it-up’ for that time frame.
Example: If you are looking for income producing, dividend stocks (as you mention) or a CD ladder might work. Again, you are looking at timeframes for use of the money.
Example: For extreme liquidity, you can’t beat money markets or savings accounts or checking accounts. The point is, you want access to the resources at any time. You usually have to pay for that flexibility with a lower return. To maximize that return, using credit unions or some of the banks you mentioned may be of interest.
Example: if you are looking at investing for retirement, again, what is your time horizon? For ultimate simplicity, the target type retirement mutual funds might be of interest, or build your own type of target fund, or check out books that teach about asset allocation and use those to guide your purchases. As you get closer to retirement, shifting more of your assets to income producing or more liquid vehicles may be of interest.
Bottom line – without a time horizon, any advice or recommendations are inappropriate.
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Thumbs up to J.D. about affiliate links. If I were to manage a personal blog, I would do it this way too. The extremes of blogging are; maintaining a blog that takes away your valuable time without even having something in return (that will of course reciprocate your effort) and maintaining a blog and posting all the form of money making imaginable.
I think this blog is not doing those both. Of course, if you write a good post, most of the time, you’ll reference other entities or businesses like banks etc. Putting some affiliate link is just to maximize the blog post as well as pushing a certain businesses that the author likes.
Just my thoughts…
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@19 JD… how about an * next to the link to a footnote that says
*affiliate link
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Thanks Chickybeth (#22)! I’m more than okay with both of those downsides, so I’ll be opening a Smarty Pig account today.
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Sometimes when I hear that interest rates are going to drop again, I get a CD. Occasionally my bank will have a weird short-term offer on CD’s and I might get one then. I have two now from such special offers.
I used to love I-bonds when they paid 3% (or more!) over inflation. When they pay nothing over inflation, I am not a fan. TIPS seem better, but I’m still learning about those.
Meanwhile, I agree about paying off the mortgage. Last time I read about some special deal on CDs, I decided to make my own special deal by paying extra on my mortgage. I’m so close to paying my mortgage off now that it’s sort of like a three-year CD that pays me 5.6% interest. I’ll simulate getting the money back during those months at the end when I would have still had to make payments if I hadn’t paid extra but can instead make those payments to myself.
My other money that I might want sooner is in one of the high-interest online savings accounts.
(Peer to peer lending seems much more risky; too risky for my blood due to risk of default. Bond funds also can go down. Dividend stocks sound good, but I’ve had stocks in two such companies; one quit distributing any at all, the other cut them in half, so I’m a little less enamored of them at this point. Smarty Pig is too annoying for me, but I’m getting to the point where I value consolidation over small differences in returns—I don’t do the credit card arbitrage thing either.)
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@Jon #9
There is no Zopa here in the States anymore. Prosper is the same idea, but it is crazy risky. People get really excited about the returns when they first start, but after a couple years once the losses trickle in its not worth the risk.
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@Crystal One more thing I just thought of: when I first opened my account at SmartyPig, I was a little confused because they pay interest quarterly instead of monthly. I’m not sure how much of a difference it makes over time, but they do have a feature where you can see how much interest is earned each day which is handy.
The way I look at it, it is money I am not going to touch for a little while anyway and the site itself is so motivating, it has helped me save a lot more than I would at a regular bank.
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Right now the low risk investments are yielding less than inflation so while you may get 2%, you are losing every day to inflation. However, if it’s safety you prize, CDs and money markets are good choices.
In search of yield there are some good dividend paying stocks out there but of course, they can always cut the dividend.
I have been researching Master Limited Partnerships which currently yield 7% and have the possibility of appreciation (of course they can go down in price too). Think of companies that do nothing but move around energy around the U.S.: natural gas, oil, coal, etc. Really boring businesses that are highly stable and they are setup tax free by an exemption in tax law. They seem to be more stable than most dividend paying stocks but more risky than your typical savings investment.
Still researching them but LiveCheap wrote an article about it a few weeks back. Pipe Fat Dividends with MLPs
Not sure they are stable enough for “granny” investing but the larger ones seem to have a good track record.
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I still like LendingClub if you’ve already built up a cash emergency fund. I put $25K in there last year, and 10 months later, I’m still earning over 11% and my $25K has turned into $26K and change.
I also have tons of cash in ING Direct and others, but LendingClub offers a pretty good alternative.
-Erica
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I will pimp USAA to the ends of the Earth. Get me a big hat, silver tipped cane, and Joseph’s technicolor dreamcoat and I will prance up and down Front Street singing their praises.
I have had them for 5 years now and have been impressed with their service, product offerings, and website. Heck the deposit a check feature via your Iphone is worth my business alone.
As mentioned in comment #4 by Karla, all honorably discharged veterans regardless of when they seperated from the military are now able to join. You could be a WWII veteran who got out of the military in 1946 or someone fresh out of basic traning, it doesn’t matter.
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I’m prepaying my mortgage with any extra income we have over our expenses. It’s a guaranteed 5% rate of return, and more importantly, this decision is congruent with our goal of paying off the mortgage before 30.
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You’re right about a checking account can sometimes be the best place to earn money on your savings. Several reward checking accounts are still paying 4% APY. But there are better resources to find reward checking accounts than CheckingFinder. Search Google for “reward checking”.
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USAA is great for customer service and their insurance line. For saving, they are, unfortunately, quite horrible. In less than two years their “performance” saving line which has a minimum investment of $10,000 went from over 5% APY to less than 1%. They are currently sitting around 0.8% APY at the highest tier of returns. This is pathetic compared to almost every other bank out there, even during the economic down turn.
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I just got an American Express savings account. The interest rate is 1.5%. I guess I’ll find out about the service, but opening the account was relatively easy.
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JD – Think you make an EXCELLENT point to highlight paying down your mortgage as an alternative use for “extra” funds above and beyond your emergency fund on which you wish to earn a “safe” return. Paying down your mortgage gives you a GUARANTEED return – something you won’t get in stock or bond funds (which unlike owning individual bonds until maturity, can result in a loss of principal if you have to sell during a period of rising interest rates). My rules of thumb are for extra cash:
1. Build out an emergency fund (6 months minimum, I keep at least 1 year b/c I’m a conservative financial fuddy duddy)
2. Max out all tax advantaged retirement savings options (401k/IRA)
3. With any additional (taxable) savings outside of those emergency fund and retirement savings that is earmarked for a specific goal (home down payment, wedding, etc. use a an online bank… I too am a big fan of ING)
4. With additional (taxable) savings for which you have no immediate clear use – pay down your mortgage.
Some how we’ve developed this notion in modern America that mortgage debt is “good” debt because of the mortgage interest tax deduction. But until you pay off that mortgage you don’t own that house… the bank does. Alas, all too many baby boomers heading into retirement with mortgages are realizing that harsh reality. Thus, using “extra” saving to pay down your mortgage to me is a slam dunk. So thank you, JD, for once again highlighting a clear, powerful, actionable idea.
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@Chickybeth
Thanks for bringing it up!
I noticed that Smarty Pig paid quarterly, but we decided that didn’t matter. I like the interest rate and the emergency fund money was just going to be sitting at ING anyway…might as well get 2% on it instead of 1.2% if it’s just going to be padding anyway, right?
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I moved all my checking/savings money into a Kasasa Cash account at First Arkansas Bank & Trust last year. (I live in Colorado). So far it has worked very well. The APY is currently 3.5% as long as you meet a few monthly requirements. This account has enabled me to make earn a much better yield on my liquid money than other banks. I also don’t have to move money between my checking and savings account any more which is nice.
http://www.firstarkansasbank.com/personal/personal-checking/kasasa-cash.html
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@12 Tyler: I would avoid index funds for money you are looking to use within 5 years. When I was building up my down payment fund 3 years ago I was tempted to do the same, thankfully I did not or I would not currently own a home. While index funds are a great investment in the long run, they are too risky for short term savings.
Great point about paying down your mortgage. For those who do not want the risk associated with stocks and bonds, but are fed up with low savings rates, then paying your mortgage is probably the best return you can get. If you are in the early years of your mortgage you can save thousands on interest by paying extra toward your principle.
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@Manisha (#36)
I almost completely agree with your rules of thumb. If you have enough money to hit all four of your points, that is exactly how I’d do it. If you don’t make enough to completely max out your 401K (>$16,000 a year), like my husband and I, I’d suggest these steps:
1. Emergency Fund for at least 3 months (see below for the rest).
2. Maximum matching to your 401k and max out at least one Roth IRA.
3. Overpay your mortgage to at least the nearest $100. We overpay to the $100 after that…an extra $160 a month. Continual extra principal payments will save you thousands in interest.
4. Hit your specific goals – In our case, we put money aside for my husband’s graduate classes, extra into our emergency fund since we too want it to be large enough to cover a full year, and we put a small amount into our vacation account…what’s the use of saving heavily if you can’t do what you love at least once in a while?
5. With any additional money, open another Roth IRA if you haven’t done so already and are able to (married couples, etc).
6. If you still have any extra, pay down your mortgage.
We have been paying a bunch for graduate school and were stuck on our first 4 steps, but this summer we can move on to opening another Roth IRA since my husband will finish graduate school. Next year we will be able to hit all 6 of our suggested steps.
We are currently on track to pay off our mortgage in 11.33 years total. If we can move on to Step 6 next year, we could shave a couple of more years off.
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I will definitely look into some of these. I have way too much money sitting in my checking account earning pathetic interest. Even the interest rates on my “high-yield” savings accounts suck. I still want to keep some money in safe investments, but I’m willing to take a little risk for potentially higher returns.
Hindsight being 20/20, I sure wish I had put some money into long-term CDs back when interest rates were upwards of 5%! I used to do CD ladders, but when high-yield savings interest rates surpassed rates on all but longer-term (2+ years) CDs, it seemed crazy to tie up my money in CDs. But it’s only been in the last 5 years that I’ve had significant savings, so those interest rates were sort of my idea of normal, and I didn’t recognize the high rates as an opportunity.
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Is ING also sponsoring many of these posts in addition to the content on the blog? A few of these posts sounded like pure astro-turfing for ING…
I have an ING account also but how anyone in their right mind can excuse them paying out little over 1% in interest (not even keeping up with INFLATION!!!) is beyond me. I’ve immediately begun the process of moving my money into a few rewards checking accounts that I treat as savings accounts. I top them off with the money I have budgeted for the month and reap 4.5% interest on my savings each month. I have to use my debit card 20 times a month but I make more than 20 purchases anyway…
I love ING’s interface too but when push comes to shove, I can’t eat their shiny interface. I’m in this to make money on every cent of my money. As long as people are too lazy to move their money elsewhere, ING (and other banks) have no incentive to pay out any more than they have to.
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A quick note in reply to comment #41: Index funds don’t have to be risky. Stock index funds are risky.
Other index funds (a short-term Gov’t bond index fund, for instance) can carry less risk.
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@john78 (#44)
I’ve never written a sponsored post and never will. My editorial independence isn’t for sale. If I’ve enthused about ING Direct, it’s because I use them and love them. Are there other banks that pay higher rates? Sure! And some of them offer affiliate programs, too. But I don’t write about them because I don’t use them.
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I also agree with the people who recommend SmartyPig. I have an account with them and it is great. It works well for short to medium term goals, such as saving for vacations, holiday presents, and a down payment. My favorite part is that when you close a goal, you can get the money on a debit card or a giftcard. Another thing is that it shows you how far along you are to your goal, which for me personally makes me want to save more. Though I do agree that it takes forever to get the money in/out, but that is standard for an online bank (which usually have higher rates).
Another savings account that I’ve seen with a comparable rate is American Express. They have 1.5% (higher than ING, where I have my IRA), but I haven’t tried them yet as SmartyPig has a higher rate and they don’t offer IRAs right now.
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JD: Perhaps you should just rewrite your disclaimer to be a little more specific about why. Instead of saying ‘may receive payment’ say ‘This blog uses affiliate links’, maybe with a link to an about page with what affiliate links are.
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I have my cash savings in a reward checking account. It pays 4% and is FDIC insured. Kiplinger’s advice on taking a little risk seems misguided since their suggestions yield less than my risk-free 4%.
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Another fan of USAA and ING. USAA is my primary bank, and ING is where my emergency fund and rainy day savings are.
One note about USAA that I didn’t see in previous comments – descendants of military personnel can also have USAA accounts. My account only exists because my wife’s grandfather was Air Force active duty. He opened an account way back when, then his son (my father-in-law) opened one, then my wife opened hers. Eventually, I’ll open accounts for my kids too.
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