Cheap Ways to Stay Warm this Winter Print
Thursday, 14th December 2006 (by J.D.)This article is about Frugality, Hints and Tips, House and Home
Winter weather has arrived in Oregon — it’s rainy and cold. This time of year, Kris and I search for ways to keep warm. A lot of guides to saving money on heating contain impractical advice: “consider heating with solar energy!”. They offer good suggestions for the long-term, but they aren’t useful if you want to save money now. Here are some frugal ways we stay warm in our drafty old house.
- Let in some light. Open blinds on south-facing windows during the day to let in the sun. Close them in the evening to add a bit more insulation. This provides just enough mid-day warmth that we don’t need the heater.
- Use rugs on bare floors. We have hardwood floors above a poorly-insulated basement. These floors are cold in the morning and the late afternoon. An area rug does a fine job of keeping my feet warmer.
- Block drafts. This is best done with weather-stripping or other forms of insulation, but even a blanket in front of a door helps. Because our house is so old, nothing is level. This makes it difficult to install weather stripping. The bottom of our mudroom door, for example, has a one-inch gap on one end but is flush with the floor near the hinge. By laying a blanket in front of the door, we can mitigate some of the heat loss.
- Use space heaters. According to Michael Bluejay’s energy guide, this is the single best way to save money on electricity. As I learned from my tests with the Kill-a-Watt, a portable radiator-type oil heater uses a lot of power, but not nearly as much as a furnace. We have a couple of these heaters. They take a while to get warm, but once they’re going, the can heat a small space cheaply.
- Bundle up. I love cold-weather clothes: long underwear, sweaters, hats, scarves, gloves. Some days we simply bundle up and turn down the heat. It’s cozy. And don’t forget: house slippers go a long way to keeping you warm!
- Install a programmable thermostat. My sister-in-law just received her first big heating bill at her new home. “It was $100!” she said. (She had been leaving her thermostat at 68-degrees around the clock.) Her heating bill was more than she had budgeted, and made it easy to justify the cost of a new programmable thermostat. They’re easy to install and an excellent way to cut your heating costs. We set ours for 54 at night and when we’re gone during the day. (Reader Adam G. reviewed his programmable thermostat last August.)
- Use an electric blanket. There’s no need to heat the entire house when you’re asleep. There’s no need to even heat the bedroom. An electric blanket is cheaper and cozier. (A blanket with dual-controls is best.)
- Change the furnace filter. A dirty filter forces the furnace to work harder, decreasing its efficiency, increasing heating costs. We change the furnace filter at the start of the season, and once every month or two thereafter.
- Close unused rooms. Do not heat them. This winter, we closed off our guest room and shut the heater vent. That room is now separate from the rest of the house. It stays cold, but there’s no reason to keep it warm.
These steps can reduce your heating costs immediately. In the long term, your best bet is to make sure your home is properly insulated. You should also check that your heat source is efficient, and that you’re not losing heat in unintended locations.
For example, I went down to the cellar last night to pull out some Christmas lights. I was startled to find that the basement was actually warm. It shouldn’t be. It’s uninsulated, below-ground, and exposed to the cold. The furnace was pumping away, doing its thing, heating the house. But it was apparently heating the cellar, too. It took only a moment to find the problem — our ductwork is not insulated. As the hot air blows through the pipes, the metal is heating, and the warmth is dissipating into the basement. We need to fix that.
Reportedly, insulating your water heater is another good way to save money. Since ours lives in the uninsulated mudroom, we should probably look into that.
For a detailed analysis of how your home can be heated most efficiently, set up an appointment for an energy audit. Many large cities have free programs for assessing home energy use. In Oregon, for example, the Energy Trust is a non-profit coalition of energy companies. A representative will tour your home and give you advice on how to save money on utilities. It’s free. (In fact, when we did it, they gave us several compact fluorescent bulbs and told us about rebates we qualified for. It was better than free.)

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December 14th, 2006 at 5:32 am
Even better than an electric blanket: try a down comforter and flannel bottom sheet. I bought my down comforter 20 years ago and it’s still toasty warm. I keep it in a flannel duvet cover, and with that and a flannel bottom sheet we’re warm enough to keep the heat off at night in our room, and even crack the window slightly for fresh air, even when its 30 below zero outside. Plus, making the bed is a snap–you just shake the comforter and that’s it. No sheets or blankets to muss with, just the comforter and a bottom fitted sheet.
As for water heaters, one option to consider is to replace the water heater with an instantaneous on-demand heating system. A water heater runs 24/7 to keep your water hot during the few times per day when you need it (taking a shower, washing dishes, etc.). It’s like keeping your car idling 24 hours a day just so you can use it for an hour. Instantaneous systems, like the ones that have been used in Europe for decades, heat water only when you need it. They require an investment up front, but pay for themselves eventually in fuel savings, and then after that you’re saving money.
December 14th, 2006 at 6:21 am
The house we recently bought has mechanical timers inserted into the connections for both electric water heaters. The timers turn off the power to the water heaters at 8 a.m. and turn it on again at 5 p.m.
December 14th, 2006 at 7:25 am
Do not close off vents in unused rooms if you have an HVAC. Heat pumps are sized for your house’s entire footage. If you shut down one room you’ll make your HVAC run very inefficiently.
Do close off vents in unused rooms if you have a furnace. There’s no reason why not to.
December 14th, 2006 at 7:34 am
…and please, people, be careful with the space heaters.
Every cold snap that comes through Florida, you hear of at least one house/apartment/condo fire being started by someone who fell asleep with the thing on, and one thing led to another and whooosh! Up in flames.
December 14th, 2006 at 8:21 am
I second the advice about flannel sheets and a down comforter. I throw on an extra lightweight quilt for my half of the bed and I sleep really well. My husband claimed he “hated” flannel sheets. Turns out he had never tried them.
Once he tried them, he was totally hooked.
December 14th, 2006 at 8:53 am
We combine the flannel, the down comforter, AND the electric blanket. The electric blanket is turned on one hour before we hit the sack so the bed is extra toasty. It is a rare night that we leave the electric blanket on, but it is nice to know it is there if we need the overnight heat.
December 14th, 2006 at 9:20 am
Warning about kerosene space heaters: they are a carbon monoxide risk. If you use them in a tightly sealed space or an unventilated basement, you can easily poison everyone with carbon monoxide buildup.
December 14th, 2006 at 11:29 am
To combine a couple of those hints, and avoid the tragedy William Mize mentioned, look for the ceramic space heaters with remote thermostats. These cost about $50 at Target or Costco and do a wonderful job of heating a room without overheating.
December 14th, 2006 at 11:51 am
I’ve heard closing vents is not a good idea. http://www.staywarmnh.org/safety.htm says:
Do not close off more than 20% of the registers in your house. This can cause high resistance and unnecessary heat build-up in the furnace.
In my house, several windows don’t seal well (they weren’t installed properly). I use rope caulk and then cover them with the shrinkwrap plastic. This really helps.
54 at night! My Malamute dog shows signs of being uncomfortable at 62. So, I set my thermostat at 62.
December 14th, 2006 at 1:07 pm
Instead of area rug, wear fuzzy slippers around the house. Your feet stay warm regardless of which part of the house you happen to be standing on.
December 14th, 2006 at 1:53 pm
wear fuzzy slippers around the house
Yes, this is an excellent idea if you don’t lose them all the time like I do.
December 14th, 2006 at 6:21 pm
Another note on portable electric heaters . . . I spoke with an elecrician over the summer and he warned against using portable electric heaters in houses that still use knob and tube wiring. He said that they pull a lot of energy and can lead to fires if you have any brittle/broken wire coverings. He said that the covering for knob and tube tends to get brittle over time, especially in attics where there are greater temperature extremes.
Also, we had to use a couple space heaters last winter when our furnace went kaput and our electric bill for heating just a few rooms when we were home ended up being quite a bit higher than had we run the furnace for the entire house (with a programable thermostat set at 66 during the day and 54 at night).
December 14th, 2006 at 7:24 pm
54 at night? That’s a little too crazy for us and we’re Canadian. With toddlers that throw off their blankets at night, we can’t bring the thermostat below 68.
December 14th, 2006 at 7:50 pm
54 at night would probably result in getting fired from work by virtue of being too cold to get out of bed! They say 66 is optimum sleeping temp, so that’s where we put it.
December 15th, 2006 at 5:05 am
Wow, 66 is way too warm for me…I don’t even keep the temperature that high when I’m awake! I work at home, and am most comfortable in winter when it’s around 65 in my office. It keeps me alert and energized (and yes, I wear a sweater and warm socks). At night our bedroom drops into the low 50s or even upper 40s, and I love it…I sleep like a rock when it’s chilly. I have a really hard time in summer when it’s hot at night. I spent a January in Scotland once, doing a shorebird census, and we all slept in a big old estate house that had no heat in the bedrooms. I would go to sleep at night with a glass of water by my side, and in the morning it would be frozen solid. Now that’s cold! I tried to warm up in the mornings by taking a bath, but the cast-iron tub was so cold that even if I filled it with boiling hot water it would end up just lukewarm. I get the shivers just thinking about it.
December 15th, 2006 at 6:01 am
Yes, 54 is cold. Sometimes it seems too cold. But mostly I find it refreshing. When I was in college, I had a room to myself. During the winter when it was freezing outside, I’d often sleep with the window open. You won’t catch me doing that now when I have to foot the heating bill, though!
December 15th, 2006 at 6:01 am
Easy ways to reduce your heating bill…
The Get Rich Slowly blog lists some simple things you can do to reduce your heating bill this winter short of installing solar panels. Open those blinds to let that warming sunlight in; put down some throw rugs on those……
December 15th, 2006 at 6:34 am
I wouldn’t shut the register in an unused room since every room would have a cold air return. Then you are heating cold air that you don’t use.
Matt
December 15th, 2006 at 6:43 am
I’m with bakeliteTM about toddlers. Ours always kicks off her blanket. We do turn the heat down, but not that far.
How far? Hard to say. We live in an old apartment and the thermostat’s installed crooked. We never quite know what the temp is, but we suspect it’s higher than the thermostat reads.
Which reminds me, a lot of these ideas are great, but renters can’t implement them. Bummer!
December 15th, 2006 at 6:57 am
Flora wrote “Which reminds me, a lot of these ideas are great, but renters can’t implement them.”
Not true, unless you have an ultra-strict lease! I’ve implemented all of these ideas as a renter (except for the energy audit), even changing the furnace filter. When I lived in Vermont I bought a programmable thermostat to replace the one that came with my apartment, and when I moved I just switched out the thermostat to the old one. I did the same with the shower and kitchen faucet fixtures, replacing the wasteful ones that came with my apartment with super-efficient ones (low flow showerheads give a wonderfully powerful shower, by the way, much better than standard showerheads) and I replaced all the incandescent lights that came with the apartment with compact fluorescents. When I moved out, I just put back the old fixtures and light bulbs and kept my efficient ones for my next apartment. All the time I lived in New England, which has some of the highest electricity rates in the country, my electric bill never exceeded $35/month, and I saved a lot on fuel bills through the low-flow showerhead and faucet fixtures.
December 15th, 2006 at 7:02 am
It’s been 40-something degrees at night, here in “sunny California” (I live in Huntington Beach). This crappy rental has neither thermostat nor efficient heating, nor is it well insulated. So I get by with either flannel or fleece, warm slippers, and winter socks. When we sleep, the chihuahua and I huddle under a down blanket with a heavy duvet. Afternoons are alright.
December 15th, 2006 at 7:20 am
I’ve heard that running ceiling fans backwards in the winter (so the air blows up instead of down) can help spread the warm air collecting near the ceiling. I don’t know whether it’s true or not, but it makes sense to me.
If it IS true, I have questions: I keep ours at the lowest setting, is that the best setting to use? Does it depend on the size of the room? Should they be set higher?
December 15th, 2006 at 7:28 am
Way better than an electric blanket is an electric mattress pad. The heat rises, and gets trapped between the sheets and your (ta-da!) down comforter.
December 15th, 2006 at 7:38 am
@schizo:
Yes, it’s true that you can save energy by running your ceiling fan backwards in winter, and yes you should keep it at the lowest setting. The ENERGY STAR program mentions this on their Winter Tips page, which has a lot of other useful advice.
December 15th, 2006 at 7:43 am
If you have a partner who steals the covers at night (mine rolls up, burrito-style!), an electric blanket is less than ideal so we use a down comforter and a heated mattress pad with dual controls instead. We turn it on when we go upstairs to brush our teeth, and by the time we jump in bed, it’s warm. Most nights, we set it on low (it’s on a scale from 1-10), and end up turning it off by morning. And that’s with the thermostat going down to the low 60s. Even when we were renting and having heating problems (like no heat for a couple days in a row), having the mattress pad on more than 4 or 5 all night was sweltering. Our mattress pad features an automatic shut-off so if it’s been on 12 hours, it will turn itself off. This is great because it leads to no panicking at work if we can’t remember if we turned it off.
December 15th, 2006 at 8:14 am
[...] Cheap Ways To Save Money This Winter - J.D. at Get Rich Slowly has some great tips on how to not only stay warm but also save money this winter. [...]
December 15th, 2006 at 8:56 am
Also, insulate the windows of your house - more than 30% of the heat loss in an average house is through the windows (they help save not only on heating but also on cooling bills too). (Lowes has a If you have a water heater, insulate it (go to HomeDepot or Sears to get the tubing insulation as well as the heater insulation). As mentioned earlier, drafts are a big heat sink too..
The electric blanket idea was great..
December 15th, 2006 at 2:08 pm
THE single best year round way to immediately save on electric bills: Convert EVERY bulb you can to compact flourescent. IKEA sells a number of hard to find sizes or look on the web.
My bill dropped about $14 a month which over a few years really adds up. But I am really light efficient and turn lights off when not using them, etc. I imagine a family with people who don’t turn lights off would save even more money.
Note: CFs are hard to take at first but, leave them for a week. They have gotten a lot better in quality of light and come on faster. Although, you do need to wait for 30 sec or so for full light. No big deal.
The second best way to save money: get a thermostat that comes on and goes off automatically. It can go to a lower temp just before you usually go to sleep. Then, about an hour before you awake, it can kick on to a normal temp. Then, just before you leave for work, back too low temp again. Just before you get back from work, back up. That is maybe 7 hours total with heat or AC on during work week. The only bad thing is they are limited to M-F and S,S timing. Stupid of the manufacturers to not allow day by day programing for those who have two weekdays off, or who tele commute from home two or three days a work week (as I do).
December 15th, 2006 at 4:58 pm
@jmco: Switching from incandescents to compact fluorescents is indeed a great thing to do, both for your wallet and for the environment, but I’d offer three important caveats:
1. Most compact fluorescents don’t work on dimmer switches — if you have lights on dimmers (i.e., that you use to make a light brighter or lower) stick with incandescents in those fixtures or look for one of the compact fluorescent models that do work with dimmers.
2. It makes no sense to switch out rarely used bulbs, like closet lights, to compact fluorescents. Those lights are on for such a short time that it would take decades to pay for themselves with the electricity savings.
3. Although these are rarely seen any more, be sure to avoid cheap compact fluorescents with magnetic ballasts — those are the ones that flicker. Compact fluorescents with electronic ballasts, which are what you most commonly find these days, give off a steady light with no flicker and their light tends to be warmer, at least in my experience.
In addition to being much cheaper over their liftetime (despite their higher purchase price), compact fluorescents last forever. I won six of them in a contest in 1990, and the last of those burned out just last year. Fifteen years is a pretty good life for a light bulb!
December 15th, 2006 at 9:02 pm
I keep an electric blanket on the bed, but only long enough to take the chill out of the bed before I get in. I tend to put off a lot of my own heat at night, so I rarely get cold. This has worked best for me since I’m highly allergic to feathers and can’t even have a down comforter in the house. I have hot water, radiant baseboard heat and it keeps the house fairly comfortable at 68.
During the day, when I’m inside, I wear wool lined slippers because my toes get cold, otherwise I tend to wear whatever is comfortable.
December 18th, 2006 at 3:38 pm
[...] Reduce your heating bill GetRichSlowly offers some simple tips for cutting your heating costs this winter. [...]
December 20th, 2006 at 9:34 am
Two of the largest money savers are:
1. If you have an attic, insulate it. If you have a stairwell to it, make sure you have the special insulation for the stairwell installed. It’s commonly missed, yet the R value of insulation is only as high as it’s weakest spot.
2. Tint the windows with AET film. It will lower the cost in summer as well as winter.
November 9th, 2007 at 6:31 am
put your slippers in the microwave
November 11th, 2007 at 8:22 pm
[...] Get Rich Slowly’s Tips [...]
November 27th, 2007 at 9:09 am
I live in a 140 year old farm house with 1 1/2 thick rock walls. We have no Central Air or Heat and never will. (there is no way to install it). In the summer we have 2 window units that we use but for the winter we have a wood burning stove in the living room, a gas heater in the downstairs bedroom and one in the kitchen. That and two electric space heaters. 54 in your bed room at night try about 35. I actually did a test to find out how cold it was, we had a cold snap and it hovered around freezing all day outside and I put the the thermometer in my room just to see ( this was about noon) and it was 35 degrees. Let me tell you I didn’t spend much time in my room on those days. I did sleep up there in the nights though. My tip Lots of blankets in the coldest part of the winter I have around 5. The slippers are a good idea too, some nights it’s really hard to stay warm I just leave them on. And the area rugs work very well as we have hard wood floors every where.
December 6th, 2007 at 1:16 pm
Hello, I was wondering, a Gas company has given me and my family a HUGE hassle in the past and made us pay for a new meter that they billed us over 3,000 dollars for and we were renting at that time, the charges should have rightfully went to the Owner of the house.
including This Gas Company threatened to cut off off the gas if we did not pay the monthly payment and I have 2 children. And we paid that.
We paid that chumped up charge that was being made by this Natural Gas Company.
We no longer deal with that company, but I was looking for another Gas company to better serve us as they would anyone else,instead when I called… the Rep said: let me check, O I am so sorry but we do not deal with that side of the street. say for instance, the other gas company deals with around the corner,we can deal with your side of the street then.”
And this is my local area to call for connection to Gas.
Any tips on keeping Warm this winter due to no heating Gas?? Please reply fast, its already snowed here.:D
Thank you.
Brenda
December 12th, 2007 at 1:54 pm
Don’t forget to monitor humidity. Raise your humidity a bit at the 65 degree F area and you will “feel” warmer. Not too high to promote molds in the house, but keep it above dry and not above 50%. Some experts out there can help explain the thresholds and combinations to work best. This is why some of you can keep the house cooler and still feel warm. I will be working on this in the future after I get my programmable thermostat.
January 2nd, 2008 at 6:27 pm
This is what I do to stay warm when I’m sleeping. I wear underpants, wool socks, longjohns, flannel pajamas and a cotton nightshirt to bed. A fitted flannel sheet, one flat flannel sheet, two pillows in flannel pillow cases, seven blankets and two comforters are on my bed.
When I’m awake, I like to wear either snow skiing pants or a pair of blue jeans that have a flannel lining on the inside of the pants. I also wear either a sweater or a sweatshirt over my flannel shirt. My cotton night shirt and my housecoat are also worn. If I’m wearing my street clothes, then wool socks and hiking boots are on my feet. If I’m in my pajamas, then I wear wool socks and bedroom slippers.
Draftstopper pillows are next to all of the doors (exterior and interior) in my condominium. Draftstopper pillows are also on my window sills.
Please buy a fireplace draftstopper pillow if you have a fireplace and remember to close the flue when you are not using your fireplace. Keeping the flue open is like leaving a window open and this creates a horrible draft. Warm air goes up your chimney and it gets replaced with cold air.
Another thing that you can do to lower your heating and cooling bills is to put a seal over your clothes dryer vent. This will lower your utility bill about ten percent. Make sure that your bathroom exhaust fans don’t create a draft. You need to make sure that this isn’t happening because your bathrooms can get cold if you don’t seal them.
January 31st, 2008 at 5:17 pm
We bought a Rinnaie 22,000 BTU direct vent gas heater which runs at 84% efficiency. The problem is that it’s way too much heat for the one room, but it will not heat the entire house. I do think that it is enough heat for the house, but getting it to transfer around the corners is the problem. I was thinking about using the existing A/C vents to run a flex duct in the attic from the room with the heater to our living room which is very cold, with an inline fan, but not sure if this will be powerful enough to deliver the air. Any thoughts? In general I highly endorse this heater, but wish I had gotten 2 smaller units instead of 1. This unit was advertised to heat a “tight” constructed 950 sq ft. home at 20 degrees outside. It is much warmer than 20 here and our house is 750 sq ft. But it is not an “open” plan.
February 12th, 2008 at 11:34 am
If you like to burn candles you can use a candle heater space heater to add the warmth of the candle into your room as dry radiant space heat. The candle heater is a radiator assembly that sits above the flame and concentrates the thermal energy into a ceramic radiant heat source. There is also an “electric candle” option. Makes an excellent night light, both heat and light from the same source, and if the power goes out, you can always put a candly under it. Lots of info on the website, http://www.heatstick.com
October 3rd, 2008 at 9:03 pm
We painted all our walls and ceilings plus our outside house foundation with paint that has insuladd powder added and it helps keep the house warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Go to http://www.insuladd.com to find out about this product. Excellent product. It really helps cut our energy costs. Of course, we do other things to cut down on drafts, etc. We use a humidifier which helps make the temperature in the house feel so much warmer. We keep our thermostat at 62 degrees when we are home and we drop it down to 50 degrees when we sleep. We pay our heating bill by being on a budget plan through our energy company and last year and this year we still have a credit on our bill and that is the truth. We conserve but we don’t go cold either. In the summer, we are also, signed up for an energy saving program to save 15% on our cooling. I am in the process of insulating our drapes and roman shades plus we always put heavy duty clear plastic on all our windows. In a pinch, if I found a small draft, I take my glue gun out and fill in the area-it dries clear and no one can see it.
December 14th, 2008 at 10:53 am
Two thoughts. 1) fleece clothing (from head to toes) is incredibly warm, easy to wash, and dries so fast that the dryer isn’t needed. 2)Keeping the thermostat lower is working for us because we have a few “hot” spots where we can hibernate. They are created by _keeping doors closed_ to smaller, frequently used rooms. The kitchen, with a small sitting area, gets its warmth from cooking, appliance output, and south sun. My study and adjacent bathroom are small and get some extra warmth from my computer’s heat output and shower/tub water which I set to drain slowly. This is somewhat the opposite of closing unused rooms - everything is cooler except the most used rooms. The cool bedroom is better for sleeping.
December 20th, 2008 at 11:15 pm
hi so I bought my first house this year @ the end of winter last year and thought everything would bwe good but found out my water pipes are run through my walls and the backside walls are poorly constructed and my thermostat is in my bedroom. well my water pipes froze and burst last week they blew water though my kitchen and laundry room. my laundry room is not heated so now I have two gaping holes in the kitchen and laundry room. my living room stays about 45 degrees in my living room and 70 in my bedroom… I’ve been caulking my house everywhere and it’s slowly seeming to help but I don’t make much money and I live alone in a 2000 sqaure foot house and im disabled vet with my body breaking down more and more both knees and shoulders one which comes out of socket all the time. im overwhelmed … I need help/advice… jr71x hotmail.com