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You’ve heard how awesome Roth IRAs are and how starting one now can mean big bucks when you’re older. You’ve even done some research so you have a vague idea of how a Roth IRA works. Now what? How do you actually start one yourself? It’s surprisingly easy to set up a retirement account and to begin investing in your future.
Before you invest
Saving for retirement is important, but there are other aspects of personal finance, and you should take care of two of them before opening a Roth IRA.
- Tuck away at least $1,000 for emergencies.
- Pay off your credit card debt. At the very least, make significant headway on your debt and have a plan for its elimination. (I chronicled my choice between debt and savings in April.)
Here’s one excellent way to begin your retirement savings: When you’ve finished paying off your debt, take the amount you were using for this each month and, instead of spending it, stick it into a retirement account. You’ve already developed the habit of using the money to improve your financial life; this is just another way to do it!
Where to open a Roth IRA
Deciding where to open your Roth IRA is the most difficult part of the process! Many financial institutions offer IRAs. Each place has its own strengths and weaknesses. It’s important to search for a company that suits your needs. Don’t fret about finding the perfect match — find a good match and then get the IRA in motion. Questions to ask during your research include:
- Is there a minimum initial investment? Minimum contributions?
- What sorts of fees are assessed to the account?
- Does the company offer automatic contributions?
- What investment options are available? Can you invest in stocks? Mutual funds? Real estate?
- Is it possible to download statements automatically into Quicken?
- How reputable is the provider?
If you already have an investment advisor, ask her for recommendations, but look for other options, too. Some banks and credit unions offer Individual Retirement Accounts. My credit union, for example, has Roth accounts, but they’re limited to certificates of deposit at 1.50%. ING Direct offers Roth IRAs with a $10 annual fee and no other commissions or fees. Their investment minimums are low, but their universe of funds is very limited.
If you’re willing to make some decisions on your own, you can open a self-directed IRA through a mutual fund company or through an online discount brokerage.
The Big Three
In his guest post “An Introduction to Mutual Funds”, Vintek recommended starting at one of the Big Three: Fidelity, Vanguard, or T. Rowe Price.
I call these fund families the Big Three not only because they’re enormous, but also because they have a variety of funds that cover every investment style and segment you could wish for. [...] If you’re just starting out, you should probably pick one family and stay with it. You’ll be able to track all your investments more easily in one place.
I explored each company’s web site to discover what sorts of Roth IRA options they offered for beginning investors. Here’s what I found.
Fidelity Investments offers a no-fee IRA. There’s a $2,500 minimum initial deposit, but this is waived if you commit to $200/month automatic contributions. They offer 4,500 mutual funds, about a quarter of which have no transaction fee. In short, you can open a no-cost IRA at Fidelity with a $200 starting investment if you invest in mutual funds and you agree to contribute $200/month. Apply for a Roth IRA with Fidelity.
It’s also possible to open a no-cost Roth IRA at The Vanguard Group. To do this, you must elect to receive electronic statements and start with $1000 in the company’s STAR fund. (The STAR fund is an mutual fund of mutual funds, a safe choice for beginners.) Additional contributions require a minimum of $100 unless you use their Automatic Investment Plan, in which case the minimum is $50. There are no fees to purchase the STAR fund. Start a Roth IRA at Vanguard.
T. Rowe Price charges $10/year for Roth IRA accounts until you have a balance above $5,000, after which there is no fee. You need $1,000 to open your IRA, but this minimum goes away if you sign up to contribute at least $50/month with the Automatic Asset Builder. There are no sales fees or commissions to invest this money in T. Rowe Price mutual funds. Open an IRA at T. Rowe Price.
The information here will get you started with the minimum investment and the lowest costs. If you have more money at your disposal, you have more options. It’s possible to make much more sophisticated trades with each of these places — purchasing stocks, for example — but not for free. I encourage you to look more closely at each company’s web site, and to read the literature for each investment you consider.
Discount Brokers
Discount brokers appeal to many people because they have a low barrier to entry. They offer lower fees than traditional brokers because they don’t have research departments and they don’t offer investment advice. They only act as middlemen for trading in the market.
I opened my Roth IRA at Sharebuilder after reading David Bach’s The Automatic Millionaire. It felt great to finally open a retirement account. (Seriously — I was stoked.) Now, though, I fret about the costs. Sharebuilder charges a $25 annual custodial fee for a Roth IRA, plus $4 every time I make an automatic investment. (Other transactions cost $15.95!) Because I’m careful, I’m not hit with a lot of fees. Though I love how easy it is to automate investing through Sharebuilder, my research for this article revealed two other discount brokers that look appealing.
People have all sorts of good things to say about Firstrade. This company offers a no-fee Roth IRA, but requires a $500 minimum initial investment and $100 subsequent investments. Firstrade charges $6.95 per transaction, though they do offer a wide range of mutual funds that one can purchase for no charge. Firstrade looks good for somebody who wants to invest in mutual funds, but doesn’t want to (or can’t afford to) sign on with a larger mutual fund company. Firstrade does not offer online registration, but you can begin the Roth IRA application process here.
Zecco
, the new kid on the block, charges $30 a year to carry a Roth IRA. That’s it. There are no other commissions or fees unless you’re a very heavy trader. There are no minimum balances or contributions. From what I can tell, the Zecco investment universe includes most stocks and exchange-traded funds, including some tasty Vanguard index funds. Open a Roth IRA at Zecco.
Discount brokers are a good option if you’re primarily interested in purchasing individual stocks instead of mutual funds. They’re also a fine choice if you want to get started now, but can’t afford a program with one of the mutual fund companies. Another option if you’re short on cash is to open an CD-based IRA at a bank until you’ve saved enough for the minimum initial deposit at one of the Big Three.
How to open a Roth IRA
Here’s a secret: opening a Roth IRA is easy. Have you ever filled out a job applicaton? Have you ever applied for a credit card? Have you ever opened a bank account? Of course you have. That’s exactly what the process is like to start an individual retirement account.

Some firms require that you download the forms and then to mail or fax them to the company. Most places, however, provide online applications. Before you begin the application, you will need the following:
- Your social security number.
- Your bank account information.
- Your employment information.
- Some money. (Depending on where you choose to open your IRA, or you may need $25 or you may need $3000. )
- About an hour of uninterrupted time. (Actually, you probably only need fifteen minutes, but allocate more time just to be safe.)
Gather this information in one location when you’re ready to begin. (If you’re opening an IRA through a brick-and-mortar bank or broker, take this info with you.) From this point, it’s simply a matter of answering simple questions. (English Major has a walk-thru of opening an IRA at Vanguard.)
Once you’ve completed the application process, you will be asked to transfer money to your account. This money will probably earn interest in a money market fund until you choose an investment. (In part three of this series, we’ll discuss good investment options for Roth IRAs.)
I’m a big fan of automatic investment plans. Most of the companies I mentioned earlier in this article offer some sort of program that will pull money from your bank account every month to invest in stocks or mutual funds that you designate. By setting aside $50 or $100 or $500 in this way, saving becomes a habit. You don’t notice the money is missing. It’s a regular expense becomes incorporated into your budget.

Now what?
That’s all there is to it. Really. The most difficult part of this process is deciding where to open an account. Set aside an hour or two some Saturday morning to explore your options over a cup of coffee. With some research, you should be able to find a company and program that fits your place in life.
I always believed opening a retirement account difficult. “Besides,” I thought, “I don’t have money to invest.” Last year I forced myself to find the time and the cash to open a Roth IRA, and it has been one of the best financial decisions I’ve ever made. My account balance is small, but I love to watch it grow!

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The GRS Introduction to Roth IRAs series Part 0: How compound returns favor the young Part 1: What is a Roth IRA and why should you care? Part 2: How to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it) Part 3: Which investments are best for a Roth IRA? Part 4: Questions and answers about Roth IRAs |
Remember: I’m just learning about IRAs myself. I’m sure to have missed some things. Fortunately, there are some sharp Get Rich Slowly readers out there to clear up mistakes. (I’ll incorporate corrections into the body of the post.)
June 7th, 2007 at 6:49 am
I was recently looking at the Fidelity Roth IRA. I wanted to waive the initial minimum deposit, but was wondering if the $200/month is constant. In other words, do you have to commit to that amount every month? If so, it seems better to just wait until you have the minimum required and then control how much you want to put in each month.
I wanted to open one for both my wife and myself, so $400 total is a bit much (on top of our other savings, 401ks, bills, etc.) to be locked into for life just to avoid the initial $2500.
June 7th, 2007 at 7:08 am
My father, a regular working guy who financed a 25-year retirement and left an estate gave this advice: always fund your retirement to the max, even if you have to borrow to do so.
Of course he didn’t envision folks carrying the kind of credit card debt that is now common. I still think that it’s valid if you’re flush but have no cash flow to borrow $ for the IRA, provided you are disciplined about paying the debt off. If you have family members with no money, you might be able to borrow from them - that would perhaps go over better than borrowing for something material. You can use FamilyCircle or a similar site to manage such a loan.
June 7th, 2007 at 7:10 am
This is exactly the information I have been looking for! Thanks!
June 7th, 2007 at 7:10 am
Sorry, I meant “family members WITH money”. I am a big advocate of parents helping their young adult kids by funding, or at least supplementing, their Roth IRAs, since it rewards work.
June 7th, 2007 at 7:12 am
Frist of all:Congrats on your excellent blog! I loved reading the archives.
I have kind of a dumb question:all this reading about IRAs and stuff has made me want to look in to saving and investing for the future.The problem is I am not in the U.S. I do have a bank account with a U.S bank though. Can I still start a Roth IRA?
I cannot save in my country´s currency simply because inflation will eat the whole thing so most of the money I make I try to save it in US dollars.
Thanks!
June 7th, 2007 at 7:29 am
I have a Roth IRA (as well as some taxable accounts) through T. Rowe Price and we set them up online. It was a couple years ago, before their big website re-design, but I’m sure they didn’t eliminate that functionality.
June 7th, 2007 at 7:40 am
I’d add another question when doing this type of investment research. Is the plan open or closed, meaning can you buy any product or are you limited to the company’s products. For example, if you went with Vanguard for your Roth IRA you might have non-Vangaurd products you are interested in and some companies limit you to their products.
Good stuff JD!
June 7th, 2007 at 7:46 am
Hey, J.D., I think this is a great couple of articles–if you were interested in adding the particulars of the Vanguard account-opening process, I did a walkthrough here from when I opened my own Roth there.
June 7th, 2007 at 7:52 am
JR,
Great article. Just a couple of point about Firstrade. They do now offer online signup with their ROTH IRA. You have to fax in a couple of forms signed, but i think this is the case with most places. When I signed up they only required a $50 min deposit.
Once again great article, I will definitely bookmark it and send it out as a reference for my family and friends looking to get started.
June 7th, 2007 at 8:26 am
I use sharebuider for my all Investment accounts right now. The fees look high, but if you upgrade your plan to advantage ($20/month) your IRA fees are waved and you get 20 trades/month (and each additional trade is just a $1).The fees for real time drops to just $11.95 (all sells are real-time for some reason).
I chose sharebuilder because I can use limited amounts of money (hey, i’m 18 and on minimum wage so that amounts to about $10/week of available cash) and buy fractional shares of almost any stock or ETF.
June 7th, 2007 at 8:43 am
I have my Roth IRA at T. Rowe Price. I had no problems doing everything online. I never had to fill out any forms and what not.
June 7th, 2007 at 8:46 am
I’ve got a question here for you sharp folks.
My wife and I just had our first child a couple of weeks ago so now we’re interested in putting some money aside for college. We’ve decided to not do things like 529’s or other eduction only options but instead just invest the money straight up.
Here’s my question: When considering long term savings goals should we setup totally seperate investment accounts or lump them together to maximize money growth?
For example, say we go with Vanguard. Should I setup an account just for College and then another account just for Retirement and then another for a future House? Or should we lump all those in one investment account (maintaining proper portfolio diversification of course) in order to make the most of interest growth?
Can the term “IRA” include these other types of goals or is that a legal no-no?
June 7th, 2007 at 8:54 am
You T. Rowe Price people have me back digging through the site. If I find an electronic-only way to open a Roth IRA, I’ll amend this entry.I’ve added info for applying online at T. Rowe Price.June 7th, 2007 at 8:59 am
One quick thing: I would STRONGLY recommend that you have more than $1,000 in an emergency fund before starting a Roth IRA, ESPECIALLY if you have children. If you have only $1,000 in an emergency fund, Murphy’s Law dictates that the day you fund a Roth IRA will be the day that your car dies and your hot water heater blows up. We have more than $10K in our emergency fund right now and we still don’t think it’s enough (one child, another one on the way) - we are shooting for $30-40K at this point.
June 7th, 2007 at 9:05 am
Rafael: I think that you need at the very least US earnings to open a Roth IRA.
You can usually invest in dollar denominated funds in countries outside the US. You certainly can from the UK. Its reasonably likely that they will be more expensive than investing in the US, and investing in your local currency, partly due to economies of scale.
June 7th, 2007 at 9:20 am
I think this is one of those philosophical differences where each person is going to have to choose what’s right for them. I’m carrying $1,000 emergency fund, paying down my debt, and investing in my IRA. I haven’t run into any problems yet, though I know there is a risk that I might. When my debt is eliminated (still on target for 25 March 2008), I will boost my emergency fund to $5,000, which is where I’ll let it sit. But then I don’t have any kids and my wife and I have a joint $5,000 emergency fund for the house.
June 7th, 2007 at 9:22 am
I use Fidelity, mainly because my work 401k is also through them. This is exactly the kind of step by step info I could have used in january! I sort of just winged it, but thus far it has been okay.
June 7th, 2007 at 9:36 am
I’m a little scared to move my IRA to Zecco since I doubt their business model will work. The hassles of changing brokers when they collapse or raise fees just isn’t worth it.
June 7th, 2007 at 9:37 am
@ Trent
I guess it just depends on how risk averse you are and your life circumstances. I tend to be more risk averse so I like having a good cash cushion in a high yield savings account. $20k right now. But for other’s I’m sure less is fine. $1000 though sounds really low but if you’ve got some other asset you could liquidate quickly I could see investing the rest.
So many options…
June 7th, 2007 at 9:39 am
One thing that I think is being overlooked…I’m almost positive you can have more than one Roth ACCOUNT as long as the sum of all accounts falls under the total limit.
Thus, you could use Zecco for buying stocks for your Roth, but if you really liked Vanguard mutual funds (and for some reason wanted to go with those instead of ETFs), then you could have another Roth account at Vanguard.
Hopefully someone can confirm (or deny) this…But as I said, I’m almost positive this is the case.
June 7th, 2007 at 10:16 am
You can have multiple Roth IRA’s - I know because I’ve done it. Cashed them in for a house downpayment.
June 7th, 2007 at 10:21 am
I’m at T.Rowe Price as well. For their Index funds you must pay $10/year unless the balance is $10k or greater.
June 7th, 2007 at 10:22 am
Great article even for someone still learning themself. I’ve noticed a lot of posts to do with IRA lately. You can never post enough. Keep it up!
June 7th, 2007 at 10:34 am
James nailed it a bit there (w/ shy confirming). Utilize different Roth accounts to trade according to how you feel. E.g., certain brokerages don’t have access to all the funds, ETFs, or individual stock.
but for many people, sticking w/ one brokerage like vanguard and buying a no-load, low fee and low expense fund will be fairly ideal.
June 7th, 2007 at 11:04 am
@Covert7
Re: Multiple accounts– Like so many things, it depends. If you’re leaving your contributions in cash, you’re more likely to find that your brokerage has multiple tiers of interest rates on aggegrated funds, in which case one big pile is going to yield a higher return. If you’re investing your contributions, they’re going to grow (or shrink) at the same rate regardless, so the only difference is whether there is a tax-advantaged account in which the investments are better held.
I have to make some assumptions on how much you’re able to save, but it sounds to me like you should probably have a Roth for you, a Roth for your wife, and a taxable-savings account (aka regular brokerage investment account) for the rest. Although some companies let you assign sub-accounts (i.e. child-1 college, retirement, future home) without physically subdividing your money, you may need to keep track of those “accounts” yourself using Excel, Quicken, etc.
June 7th, 2007 at 11:25 am
It should be noted that there are income limits for making Roth contributions–$95k single and $150k married filing jointly. If your adjusted gross income exceeds those amounts, you may not be able to contribute the full amount or at all to a Roth.
See the details here:
http://tinyurl.com/2jw8ab
June 7th, 2007 at 11:26 am
@ Tinyhands
Thanks for that info Tinyhands. I see what you’re saying here and I think my further questions on the matter are probably better suited to the Forums rather than taking up more space on this post.
Thanks for the help!
June 7th, 2007 at 12:04 pm
anyone have any opinions or used Charles Schwab for their Roth or IRA’s in general?
June 7th, 2007 at 12:16 pm
I noticed you said Pay off credit card debt. Should one pay off credit card debt or do you mean all debt (car, student loans, etc)?
June 7th, 2007 at 12:27 pm
Here is something to consider: Have a Roth, a 401(k), and additional investments, and you want to diversify, which investments should go into the Roth? It would seem to me that the investments which generate income that is taxed at the highest rate should go into the Roth since then that income will never be taxed.
Opinions?
June 7th, 2007 at 12:50 pm
@Moneymonk, You should pay off high APR debt. Assume your ROTH will earn an average 8% APY in the long term, any debt with interest higher than 8% should be paid off before investing in ROTH, any debt with interest lower than 8% such as student loans and so on can wait.
June 7th, 2007 at 1:13 pm
Can I open up more then 1 Roth IRA, say one at ING and another at T Row Price?
June 7th, 2007 at 1:59 pm
re: Sharebuilder I’ve got a Roth account with them and am happy with it, but I find their Gain & Loss reports to be misleading at best. Let me give an example, using nice, round, purely hypothetical numbers:
At the beginning of the year, I buy $100 of stock YYY, paying a commision of $15 (total cost = $115, value of stock = $100) At this point, the gain/loss report will show a loss of $15.
At the end of the year, the stock is still worth $100, but I got dividends of $5/quarter which I had automatically reinvested (nice feature, and there is no commision to do so)
So, I think I’ve paid $100 for the stock, plus the $15 commision and gained $20 in dividends, giving me a value of $120 against a cost of $115, for a $5 profit.
Sharebuilder instead will show me with a fund valued at $120, but with a loss of $35! The report counts the dividend as a cost, not as a gain.
I’ve asked them about this, and they tell me I can edit the history in the gain/loss report to remove the dividend history so that I get the number I expect. I am loathe to do that, because I don’t want to lose that history.
Other than this particular quirk (can somebody with a background in accounting tell me if this is the standard way to do these?), I am quite happy with this account.
Dave
June 7th, 2007 at 2:02 pm
[...] How compound returns favor the young Part 1: What is a Roth IRA and why should you care? Part 2: How to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it) Part 3: Choosing investments for Roth IRAs coming soon! Part 4: Questions and answers about Roth [...]
June 7th, 2007 at 2:07 pm
I did have to mail in a Roth IRA application to T. Rowe Price when I opened my sons account, but he was/is a minor
June 7th, 2007 at 2:11 pm
June 7th, 2007 at 2:27 pm
It should also be noted that yearly maximums for Roth IRA’s are limited to $4,000 for the 2007 tax year and previous years, and will be limited to $5,000 for the 2008 tax year.
This is a good thing to know so that you can have the option of setting up fund transfers (either as a net or percentage from your paycheck, a bank account, etc.) at $333.33 per month for 2007, and $416.66 for 2008, you’ll be sure to hit the maximum by the end of the year.
June 7th, 2007 at 3:01 pm
Income and contribution limits were brought up in previous parts of the article.
To Rance:
I believe you are correct, given that gains are (currently) untaxed in a Roth, it would stand to reason that one might consolidate both their tax-disadvantaged investments as well as any shorter-term/riskier investments that they hope will do quite well. In this way, you should be minimizing taxation.
June 7th, 2007 at 3:02 pm
I’m really surprised nobody has mentioned Scottrade yet. (Unless Scottrade is an established loser?) I opened a Roth IRA with them in January. They only required a $500 minimum initial investment, and I haven’t paid any fees so far. If you buy into one of their approved no-load, no-fee mutual funds, the transaction is free. And they have tons of funds to choose from.
Downsides are you can’t electronically transfer my money in, and if you don’t buy a no-load, no-fee fund, the transaction fee is something like $34. But I use the online bill pay feature at my bank to send the check every month, and I don’t plan on buying into a fund with loads and fees. So I’m pretty stoked about a no-fee IRA. It works for me.
June 7th, 2007 at 3:10 pm
Re: Emergency fund first: You can take out the amount invested from your ROTH without a penalty, for any reason, right? (I know you can take out like $10k for a house, but I’m pretty sure you can extract your cash deposits too…)
If this is so, is there any reason someone like JD (who wants to do a ROTH *now* before building up a Trent-size emergency fund) couldn’t use this as an extended emergency fund if his initial fund runs dry? If you can do this, then it seems like the ROTH vs emergency fund doesn’t have much weight beyond the 5% the e-fund would get in online savings.
June 7th, 2007 at 4:37 pm
Ryan,
You can take $10,000 out to buy your first house with no penalties, or to continue your education. If you’re under 59 1/2 you’ll pay a penalty (up to 10% I think) for any other uses.
The advantage of a Roth over a Traditional IRA is that you’ve already paid taxes on the money you’re putting in, and anything you earn in a Roth won’t be taxed, but if you pull it out before 59 1/2 you’ll be penalized (10%) and the penalty is the same for a Traditional IRA. With a Traditional IRA you take pre tax dollars and place it in the IRA, when you take it out (before or after 59 1/2) you’ll pay taxes on it.
Lets say your tax margin is 15%.
To invest in an Roth IRA, you’d pay the 15% before investing.
Example(Roth):
You earn $100, your tax would be $15, thus leaving you with $85 to invest in. Lets now say you invest this amount once a month for a total of $1020. Doing this at 5% interest compounded monthly you’d earn over 20 years about $35,083.44
Example #2(Traditional):
You earn $100, since you’re investing(all of it) in a Traditional IRA all of that money would go right into your IRA. Lets factor everything in like last time, earn 5% compounded monthly over 20 years would fetch you $41,274. Sounds great, doesn’t it? Well, you have yet to pay any taxes on that amount.
You can expect to pay about $6983* in taxes, that is if you took it out all at once, thus leaving you with $34291. A little shy of $1000 less then the Roth IRA.
*I used a 2005 tax table based upon a single person’s income. Found here:
http://www.fairmark.com/begin/bracket.htm
Here are some good places to start learning about IRAs.
http://www.irs.gov/retirement/article/0,,id=111413,00.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Individual_Retirement_Account
http://www.fool.com/money/allaboutiras/allaboutiras.htm
Take Care, and take control of your money!
Adam B.
June 7th, 2007 at 4:39 pm
To correct an error, I meant “Tax bracket” instead of “tax margin”
June 7th, 2007 at 4:45 pm
@ Ryan:
You are correct about the house withdrawal, but that’s it:
-Earnings withdrawals become automatically qualified in the tax year the participant reaches age 59.5 or becomes disabled, so long as the account is “seasoned” (established for five or more years).
-Up to $10,000 in earnings withdrawals are considered qualified if the money is used to acquire a principal residence. This house must be acquired by the Roth IRA owner, their spouse, or their lineal ancestors and descendants. The owner or qualified relative who receives the “first time homeowner” distribution must not have owned a home in the previous 24 months.
Via http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roth_IRA
June 7th, 2007 at 4:51 pm
JD:
Sorry I didn’t get you the information you asked for — I’ve been keeping crazy-long hours.
BTW, I too set up everything for TRowe Price online and it was as smooth as butter. Their online interface to manage the account is nice too — I can automatically change my contributions, open other accounts, etc.
DB
June 7th, 2007 at 5:10 pm
It is my understanding that at any time, an account holder can withdraw up to the total of his contribution from a Roth IRA with no penalty. In other words, Ryan’s suggestion that a Roth IRA might be used as an emergency fund does hold true. Now I may be wrong on this, but I don’t think that I am. I’ll get verfication this evening.
June 7th, 2007 at 6:25 pm
If you are going to choose mutual funds for your IRA’s, don’t forget to take into account the expense ratios for the funds. Some companies considerably higher ratios than others. Vanguard has a good expense ratio calculator on their site to compare funds btw companies.
June 7th, 2007 at 6:35 pm
JD — that’s my understanding too.
The argument *against* using a Roth as an emergency fund is that once you’ve withdrawn funds from a Roth, you *can’t* put them back. The risk is that if you tap your Roth, you make a permanent hole in your retirement savings. And emergency funds do have a habit of occasionally being needed…
Also consider that you really need your emergency fund to be relatively stable; while a retirement fund, with its very long timescale, can take more risk and so have more volatility. What if you need your emergency fund in the middle of a stock market slump?
If you’re just starting out and are faced with a choice between emergency fund or Roth, starting a Roth with the understanding that you might tap it in an emergency is worth considering. But given their very different purposes, it’s much better to keep them separate. (I view funds that go into my Roth as entirely inviolate: once they go in I don’t plan to see them again until retirement.)
And I’ll add a nod for Vanguard, as long as you can afford an initial investment big enough for the fund you want into ($1000 for STAR, $3000 for Target Retirement funds) — I’ve been very happy with them, and the automatic $333.33 debit from checking wors very well for me.
June 7th, 2007 at 7:34 pm
Excellent Site. My father in law recently passed away at the age of 52 from a Brain Tumor (hope you never have to deal with one of those in your life!) and my mother in law is pretty uneducated in finances. I’ve been helping her roll over his 401k into an IRA and appreciate your posts on various companies.
I’m making some $ through online surveys these days after a few hours on the computer and am planning on taking those earnings and place them into an IRA as well, thanks to your advice!
http://deathtodebt.blogspot.com
-Rex
June 7th, 2007 at 8:14 pm
Does anyone know if it’s possible to roll a 401k into a Roth IRA?
June 7th, 2007 at 8:41 pm
Covert7 — One technique you can use for financing college is to save that money in your (and spouse’s) Roth IRAs. The contributions can be withdrawn without penalty, and the growth will still be there for retirement. Of course, if you can afford to save more than $4000/yr/person, you’ll need to look at other investment vehicles. Be sure to compare your state’s 529 plan with the Coverdell ESA (formerly Education IRA). My understanding of college financial aid is that they take everything in the student’s name, but only a part of what’s in the parents’ names.
As far as Roth IRA companies, I’ve been pleased with Fidelity. Their website is imperfect (but still quite usable), and their trading fees are high, but regular stock trades in a retirement account are a no-no anyway. Used to use T. Rowe Price. Also good, but maintenance fees were higher.
June 7th, 2007 at 9:10 pm
Hello, just found this site thru a link from LifeHacker. I’d say the article is very through and well-written, but I have some serious concerns about some of the statements and implicit assumptions in the comments. Please forgive me for some of the harsh comments below. Here are my thoughts:
1. Roth IRA v. Traditional (deductible) IRA v. 401(k).
I didn’t see anyone mention this, but one of the best retirement savings vehicles in the 401(k) (or 403(b)), if your employer sponsors one. The advantages of contributing to a 401(k) is the higher limit ($15,000/yr v. $4,000/yr), and most employers automatically match your contributions, so it’s free money (or an instant investment gain on your contributions). You can also contribute to a Roth IRA if you participate in a 401(k)/403(b).
Assuming you don’t have a 401(k)/403(b), the question is whether to use a Roth IRA or a traditional IRA, where the Traditional IRA will provide you a tax deduction in the current year.
BTW, with the exception of a 401(k) that has an employer match, I’d pay off high interest debt before starting an IRA. Your returns in the IRA will be swamped by the 12%+ interest rates on your credit cards, etc.
2. Borrowing money
Someone mentioned borrowing money to fund your retirement. Unless you receive a 0% loan, this makes no sense, since any earning in your retirement fund(s) will be eaten by the interest paid on the loan. Plus, if it’s a Roth IRA, you didn’t get any immediate tax benefit either.
3. Sharebuilder
I probably in the minority with this view, but I think buying individual securities/ETFs is a stupid idea for smaller (
June 7th, 2007 at 9:13 pm
(cont. sorry posting problems)
3. Sharebuilder
I probably in the minority with this view, but I think buying individual securities/ETFs is a stupid idea for smaller (less than $75,000) accounts. I’ll use Sharebuilder since it was mentioned in the comments. Paying $20/month = $240/year in fees!!!! Let’s assuming you’ve been contributing to your IRA for a few years, and the balance is $10,000. Your “expense ratio” for this account is a whopping 2.4%!!! You’re basically down 2.4% for the year before you’ve even started investing!! This expense ratio is worse than the worst mutual funds. And for those thinking, “Well, I trade a lot, so it’s worth it,” studies have shown that these people end up with smaller gains than those who buy diversified mutual funds and hold them for a period of time! Also, most people will either (1) forgot/get bored of trading, and will end up with crappy securities in their portfolio; (2) with such small accounts, will be highly concentrated in a few companies; (3) won’t have the stomach for significant stock price swings, and will end up selling at the worst time (again, there was a study on this).
I think for smaller accounts, one should stick with low-cost, diversified mutual funds.
4. The ING Roth IRA
I think the ING Roth IRA is a terrible recommendation. True, they have a low initial investment of $250 vs. $1,000 or more at Vanguard, T.Rowe, Fidelity, but the expense ratio (what you pay indirectly every month to the mutual fund) are exorbitantly high. Take for example, their balanced fund — expense ratio of 1.40% — it’s seven times (700%) more expensive the cost of the equivalent Vanguard fund at 0.20%. 700%!! People you pay this indirectly, and the more money you have in the fund, the more you pay! And you pay this every year (month) for as long as you invest in those funds. Remember, the ING fund has to perform significantly better than the Vanguard fund due to the drag of the expenses. Generally, if you are starting out in investing, pick low-cost, diversified funds from Fidelity, T.Rowe, or Vanguard. If you can’t meet the initial investment amount, save cash in a high-yield savings account until you accumulate enough to start your IRA, or use the monthly investment options. The Vanguard STAR mutual fund, for example, has a $1,000 minimum, and it a very diversified fund. Also, some MF companies will waive annual fees if you agree to receive electronic statements.
5. Investments in IRAs
There was some discussion about using IRAs/401(k)s/403(b)s to shelter certain types of investments, specifically those that throw off significant dividends or short-term capital gains. I think this is a great strategy if you have significant holdings outside of your tax-sheltered accounts. (Of course, don’t ever put Municipal bond funds in a tax sheltered account)! However, for those with less complex portfolios, this point is moot. Buy low-cost, diversified mutual funds in your IRA.
6. Savings / Emergency Cash
Everyone made great points on building a emergency reserve. This is so critical, since this will keep you out of credit card debt if any unforeseen events occur. Getting into CC debt is one of the worst wealth destroyers out there. Since this is emergency cash, don’t put it in an IRA!!! You’ll end up paying significant penalties if you withdraw from an IRA before retirement age. Instead, place your cash in a high yield FDIC-insured savings account. My favorites are EmigrantDirect ; HSBCdirect ; INGdirect.
Investing is a passion for me, and I hope it will become the same for all of you. Please be sure to do your own research before investing. I don’t work for any of the companies I mentioned above. I do invest with one of them. Thanks for reading!
June 7th, 2007 at 10:11 pm
This post comes at a great time for me as I’m currently in the process of establishing my own Roth.
Thank you for compiling this information, JD!
=^..^=
June 7th, 2007 at 10:20 pm
Great post. I’ve already got a Roth set up, but this is useful information to pass on.
June 7th, 2007 at 10:26 pm
SecularSage:
what I recall from the paper work I recently filled out to transfer an IRA from one institution to another was that if you wanted to transfer a 401k to a ROTH, you first had to move it to a “regular” IRA, and then do the conversion to Roth as a second step. (BTW, this was at Vanguard.)
June 7th, 2007 at 11:25 pm
@Driver8: I’ll use Sharebuilder since it was mentioned in the comments. Paying $20/month = $240/year in fees!!!! Let’s assuming you’ve been contributing to your IRA for a few years, and the balance is $10,000. Your “expense ratio” for this account is a whopping 2.4%!!!
Alternatively, on Jared Teem’s “$10/week of available cash”, a $20/month fee amounts to a nearly 50% sales load.
June 7th, 2007 at 11:59 pm
I believe JD in # 45 is correct. Roth contributions can be withdrawn without penalty. I am pretty sure if there are any penalties, it would only apply to earnings, not contributions.
#40,
I pretty much agree. At least I don’t think a very large Emergency Fund makes any sense. J.D’s $1000 seems reasonable. People wanting to have $20,000+ Emergency Funds make no sense to me unless they have really high living expenses. For someone with modest expenses and modest retirement funds, it seems a waste to have a large sum of money sitting around not doing anything. Especially in my case where I plan to have 40+ years of time to buildup my retirement funds.
I don’t know if I am mathematically correct( i think so, but not sure)..but for the people who like to talk about the mental/emotional element of investing- to ME retirement investing is more important than both an Emergency Fund AND Being Debt Free. I think one can tackle all at the same time, but I’ll take Retirement first.
I feel like if I dont invest $4000 this year, that a huge missed opportunity I can’t get back. If I use a Retirement calculator and see what that $4000 might be 30-40 years from now and how much difference missing 1 year can make…ouch.
Emergencies- Being Frugal kinda IS an Emergency Fund for me. At any point I feel like I can make enough money to get by somehow. I have low enough expenses, for example, if I had to find a job I wouldn’t have to be picky. I could probably sell enough stuff on ebay to live for several months,etc. I guess as long as I am insured against catastrophies as best I can, I have the emergencies covered.
Debt Payoff- Well I don’t feel that bad if I have to carry a small amount of debt. Maybe this is emotional- but I see retirement as Compounding, and Debt as getting paid off regardless of what I do ( as long as I dont add to it). In other words, I think investing $4000 towards retirement will return much more than paying off $4,000 in debt. If I have debt ( I Don’t have any revolving personal debt, FWIW) and I am already budgeting to pay it off, its getting paid off-especially if I can maintain the same payment or inrease it as finances allow. Of course I don’t WANT to be in debt, but it’s not as emotional to me. Plus I think debt can be a short term help in case of emergency ( and possibly cheaper in some ways than cash sitting around). For example, I’d rather charge things than starve, have utlities cutoff ( and incur late fees and reconnect charges,etc), etc. If it’s short term its cheap anyway.
Maybe i’m just insane, but if I maxed out my Roth today and then found myself with no money tomorrow ( or only $1000 and a bunch of credit cards), I would still be glad I funded my retirement.
June 8th, 2007 at 12:02 am
June 8th, 2007 at 12:23 am
On the Sharebuilder site I see something called Advantage for $20/mo but also a Free basic ( with $4 per trade).
sharebuilder dot com/sharebuilder/Fees/Default.aspx
I have heard of Sharebuilder,but am not that familiar with it. I have only used typical discount e-brokerages and bought full shares or no fee Index Funds with automatic reinvestment,etc.
June 8th, 2007 at 6:21 am
Greg C. — I think, from what I’ve read, that the amount of money someone wants to have in their emergency fund depends somewhat on how many categories of “savings” that person has. I’m working on saving up an emergency fund, as well as setting aside a little money each month for other purposes. This includes a budget for car maintenance. That way, if I have an expensive repair, I can pay for it, without having to build up a huge emergency fund. But if I were to only be saving up an emergency fund and money for investments/retirement, then the emergency fund would have to be bigger, because it would have to cover more *kinds* of emergencies: medical emergencies, a break-in at home, car emergencies, travel emergencies. I think it depends on what constitutes an emergency for different kinds of lifestyles.
June 8th, 2007 at 6:31 am
[...] How To Start A Roth IRA And Where To Do It This is an excellent article for anyone thinking about a Roth IRA, but not really knowing where to start. I have mine through Vanguard, by the way. (@ get rich slowly) [...]
June 8th, 2007 at 7:51 am
If you want Vanguard and their low fees in a Roth but can’t afford the $3k min for most funds, pick the STAR Fund. It only has a $1,000 minimum and is a very diversified (20-30% bonds) and well allocated (has growth, value, large, small, and international coverage) fund of funds. You can’t beat getting a piece of those 11 different funds for the price.
The expense ratio is only about 0.35% with no load. The 15 year annualized return* on that is 10.38% with a standard deviation of 0.096. I dare you to find something that beats that return with a risk that low.
*Past performance blah blah blah
June 8th, 2007 at 8:36 am
I love Vanguard and love that my Roth IRA is with Banc of America Investments. Let me tell you why.
First I started my Roth IRA nearly 5-years agio with $50. Thats right, $50. Now I couldn’t buy into a Vanguard Mutual fund then, but at least I could START the process with only $50. That is sweet. The money simply sat in a money market account making probably 4% until I gathered up the rest.
Now here is where the deal sweetends even more. Through Banc of America Investements, I am allowed to buy a mutual fund to start with ONLY, get this…..$1000. That’s right, Banc of America and Vanguard must have some deal worked out where this is allowed. I was able to purchase Global Equity with only $1000, Small-Cap Value for only $1000 and so on. The additonal investments were in increments of $250. This REALLY helped me get my feet of the ground with growth from the start as I was investing in far better funds than the standard ‘Star’ fund.
On to Sharebuilder. I don’t have a Roth there, but a freind does and I have a brokerage account there. Where they get you is if you want to purchase stocks at anytime YOU want to. They charge $15.99 a trade, but if you simply allow them to purchase your funds/ETF/Stocks on Tuesdays, they will do so for $4. Now here’s the trick and catch, the first part already eliminates folks with that structure, but where they trap folks is when you buy $25 in an ETF and pay a commission of $4. Folks with Sharebuilder accounts have the option of purchasing stocks at very small amounts, but we have to be smarter than that and at MINIMUM only buy stocks above $150 to get that up front sales fee low.
Again, I got a sweet deal with that Roth IRA and I am unsure if anyone else has this same situation. And I do have a good chunck of my money with Bank of America, so I am not sure if that helps with me being allowed to purchase ALL of Vanguard funds starting at $1000.
June 8th, 2007 at 9:47 am
Luke:
1) Vanguard raised their minimum from $1k to $3k two years ago. The STAR fund is still $1k. Has nothing to do with BoA.
2) The STAR fund has coverage of those “better funds” asset classes you mentioned and then some. Plus it is well diversified.
3) Its a lot less risky to build your portfolio with the STAR rather than adding high risk asset classes 1 at a time. And unless you’re lucky, you’ll get a better return. Don’t believe me? Read more here: http://www.efficientfrontier.com/
4) Once you build the Roth account to a critical mass of $30k then you can look at getting as fancy or simple as you want with allocation. See example here: http://www.fundadvice.com/
Just one idiot’s opinion.
June 8th, 2007 at 11:49 am
I hear ya about your approach, but I am still allowed today to purchase a NEW Vanguard Mutual fund other than the ‘Star’ with only a $1000 minimum. That MUST have something to do with my connection with Bank of America, no?
You go to Vangaurd and it will cost you $3000 to open up th Target Retirement 2035, but I can do it with $1000 through Banc of America Investments. The barrier to entering a “high risk asset” as you call Global Equity I assume, is only $1000 for me and $3000 if you do so through Vanguard itself. Having the ability to start any fund with Vanguard for $1000 is far better than your option of having to start a Vanguard fund with $3000. I guess that was my point.
As far as the ‘Star’ fund, that is only 60% in stocks and I am far to young to be playing the slow growth game. Yeah it has a good balance, but 25% in bonds? There are far better funds than Star from Vangaurd.
June 8th, 2007 at 7:15 pm
@Luke:
Are you sure BofA isn’t charging a sales fee? I went to their site, and Vanguard funds aren’t listed in the No Transaction Fee table. For non-NTF no-loads, it shows a $45 fee:
https://www.baisidirect.com/Static/SelfDirected/Commissions/commissions.html
Just curious…
June 9th, 2007 at 7:21 am
Hey Driver8…
I can assure that when I buy 100 shares of a Vanguard fund at $10, for example, to begin my position, I have never been charged $45 or even $10 or ANY fee. Like I said, I have been able to get into Vangaurd funds for a few years now for $1000 and NO sales fee or back end fee.
June 9th, 2007 at 8:36 am
What’s missing from your post are any of the “socially responsible” funds like Calvert. For those of us trying to avoid those who invest in say, companies benefiting from the genocide in Sudan, that’s important. For example, Fidelity right now is under fire for its investments in Petrochina, which in turn is making money from investments in Sudan, which in turn is using that money to fund the genocide in Darfur.
I’m not trying to push others to get out of Fidelity or Berkshire Hathaway (another Petrochina investor), but for those of us not wanting to get “in,” options like Calvert would be nice.
Thanks for an otherwise great post!
June 10th, 2007 at 7:48 am
[...] Rich Slowly offers tips on How to Start a Roth IRA (and Where to Do It). [...]
June 10th, 2007 at 1:27 pm
[...] Retirement Savings: Setting up a Roth IRA Some good info on getting your Roth IRA going. (from Get Rich Slowly) [...]
June 10th, 2007 at 2:01 pm
[...] How To Start A Roth IRA And Where To Do It This is one of the newest entries there and I linked to it in the rather recent past, but it is one of the best personal finance “how to” articles I’ve ever read. If you’ve ever even thought about getting started with a Roth IRA, this article is a must-read. [...]
June 10th, 2007 at 2:44 pm
[...] –Get Rich Slowly has a good article on how to start an IRA. [...]
June 10th, 2007 at 3:13 pm
JD–
This is a great article, with one exception: Please take out the recommendation for the ING IRAs.
I love ING. I use them for savings, checking, and CDs now. Their web site and customer service are excellent. However, their IRAs are stupidly expensive and don’t perform well enough to make up for that. The beginner is much better off putting money in an ING savings account or CD until they reach a discount broker’s minimum.
Someone who’s more used to this stuff might decide they like an ING fund enough to invest in, but given their high expenses I really think you need to know more to make a good decision. ING funds are not a slam-dunk the way a broad index is.
June 11th, 2007 at 9:44 am
[...] How to Start a Roth IRA (and Where to Do It) (tags: money finance investing retirement Roth ira reference tips) [...]
June 12th, 2007 at 2:32 am
Sharebuilder is way too expensive, *especially* for beginners whom it panders towards. First of all, their website is sub-par. In order to sign in successfully, you must go to their website, click on their logo, THEN log in, otherwise you will be greeted with an IIS server error message. Yes, this is the official remedy, I emailed them about this. The programming/backend on the rest of their site is also not confidence inspiring, I won’t go into more detail.
Second, if you are trying to trade EFTs and mutual funds, do yourself a favor and invest in index funds with low expense ratios and low turnover. Vanguard offers some very nice choices. The key to average-joe investing is to buy the market and hold forever. Very few EFTs and mutual funds beat the market consistently year after year, and then there are the expense ratios and buy/sell fees you pay to the broker.
Unless it is your profession, leave active trading and hand-picking stocks to the day traders (the VAST majority of whom lose money and go home/quit, btw). Educating yourself to manage risk well enough to beat the market is a full-time job. For the vast majority of the public, go the no-fee/low expense ratio index fund route. For more info, google “expense ratio” and read “Common Sense Investing” by John C Bogle, founder and ex-CEO of Vanguard.
June 12th, 2007 at 4:27 pm
Hi,
I will be opening a IRA but I am confused about the amount of mutual funds the bank offers (in the particular account). For example, ING Direct offers six funds to choose from, and other banks offer only 5. What is the differnece? Should I consider the one with 6 mutual funds to invest with or is it important?????????
Also, my parents are 52years old and they want to open an IRA, should they go for the ROTH IRA or the traditional IRA? They have a steady income every month and own their business, what should they do?
June 21st, 2007 at 8:59 am
[...] If you’re new here, you may want to learn what this site is about. I encourage you to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!This is part three of the GRS introduction to Roth IRAs. You may wish to begin with parts one and two. [...]
June 22nd, 2007 at 3:19 pm
[...] How to Start a Roth IRA (and Where to Do It) (Get Rich Slowly) [...]
June 26th, 2007 at 3:46 pm
[...] “How to start a Roth Ira” from Get Rich Slowly. I just opened a Roth IRA with T. Rowe Price and just made my first $50 monthly investment today. I’m happy with them so far. [...]
July 1st, 2007 at 7:11 pm
I use Fidelity for my IRA, but not a Roth. I have a traditional IRA. Before you decide which way to go, check out some of the online calculators. Based on one’s age, income, when one starts contributions, and when one plans to retire makes a BIG difference on which IRA to use. For me, a traditional IRA makes more since, mainly due to starting late, and present tax situations. (assuming taxes will be lower when I retire….Don’t shoot me, I know what ASSUME means).
If you have a qualified roll-over, you can use it instead of a minimum deposit or monthly contribution. I rolled my 401k and have no issues. I linked my Fidelity account to a Capital One savings account where I have money transferred each payday. When I wish, I can transfer a chunk to the Fidelity IRA and then invest the cash any way I wish.
I choose not to make automatic contributions to “average buy” any stock, bond, bill, or fund, because I feel I can do better and have. In the last 12 months, I have realized a return of over 31% by buying a Fidelity fund wisely….when the fund is right to buy, not when it’s average to buy. While I might not be so lucky in the future, I have about 23 more years to get it right…..I think my investments have a chance of making more in that time frame.
July 6th, 2007 at 8:48 am
[...] How to start a Roth IRA and where to do it [...]
July 9th, 2007 at 6:20 am
I’m a college student working for the summer and will make about $5000 before taxes at an internship this summer. Thankfully my dad pays for my tuition but I was just wondering if this makes me ineligible to open a roth ira or not?
July 10th, 2007 at 8:48 am
I have $18K “sitting” in a 401K account from a previous employer. I want to roll over into an IRA and possibly a Roth IRA. I am also interested in high interest savings accounts that I read about on this site. Not sure of the requirements. I am 40 yrs. old and getting a late start in savings/retirement planning. (I do have a retirement plan with current employer.) What are your suggestions?
July 12th, 2007 at 5:01 am
[...] the past month, I’ve covered the basics of Roth IRAs. I’ve explained what they are, how (and where) to open one, and which investments are best. Today in the final part of this series, I’m going to answer [...]
July 13th, 2007 at 9:37 pm
I have a severely underperforming roth ira of 4 years (my more recent funds are doing much better). I want to sell it and open up with another fund. Any taxes/fees/etc. involved in that move? Any literature about it?
July 24th, 2007 at 7:55 am
Don’t underestimate the importance of large emergency funds (ideally 6 months wages if you have just started a family).
My job didn’t take me back F/T after my maternity leave (long story) and it took me almost a year to get a F/T job while I had a new baby to take care of…If that wasn’t hard enough, my husband was laid off when my son was only 4 months old.
We ended up 10’s of thousands (more) in debt. Take heed and prepare. We had entered all this already with a new mortgage, my student loan debt, and home improvement debt accrued when we got the house and needed to get appliances, furniture, new floors/carpet, and then later baby expenditures.
Worse possible time to lose your income…After 2 years of already accruing family-home setup debt. Hind-site is 20-20.
July 31st, 2007 at 4:32 pm
I have read each and every one of these comments and I think everyone has great advice. My situation is the following:
I’m 23 years old, my husband is 30, he has three children from a previous marriage and the youngest won’t turn 18 until 2020. We own a home and have no credit card debt. We do have a $1200 mortgage payment,$140 HELOC payment and $900 combined car payments. We make about 72K before taxes and realize that we need to start an IRA very soon. The problem is that we don’t just want to start one for the sake of staring it and don’t diversify our portfolio correctly. We can definitely do automatic payments of $200 monthly but need a realistic goal of how to manage the account because we don’t want money just “sitting” there as some people have mentioned. We are also full time college students and strapped for cash. Please advise.
August 1st, 2007 at 5:01 am
[...] How to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it) [...]
August 4th, 2007 at 10:12 pm
[...] of research could end up saving you $50 a month, and if you started putting that much extra into an IRA at age 22, then by the time you were 67, you’d have built up $575,000 (assuming a 10% annual [...]
August 6th, 2007 at 1:15 pm
i don’t believe usaa has any fees, and $250 is th eminimum investment
September 7th, 2007 at 10:00 am
I’m a little younger and originally set up a traditional IRA, but have been advised to set up a Roth IRA in addition. Is it safe to set up a traditional and Roth IRA with the same company (currently with Fidelity) or should I do with two different ones just in case something would happen to Fidelity. Thanks!!
September 19th, 2007 at 10:23 am
I am ordinarily resident in the UK, but domiciled in the US. All of my earned income is in the UK (I pay UK income tax and declare my UK earnings on my US income tax form). I have some small income from investments and may in the future have rental income from a US property. Can anyone out there tell me whether I am eligible at all for an IRA or Roth IRA? Does rental income count as ‘earned’ or ‘unearned’ income? Thanks! Thanks also for the interesting reading on the subject.
September 27th, 2007 at 8:01 am
[...] How to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it) [...]
October 3rd, 2007 at 6:41 pm
Trying to decide on Roth IRA, or regular IRA.
On a regular IRA, if you put in approx. $75, Uncle Sam puts in $25. (That’s about 25% of the total: $100.
Both Your $75 and Uncle Sam’s $25 gains interest for multiple years till you retire.
I don’t understand why a Roth IRA is better.
You are gaining interest on Money you would have paid to Uncle Sam.
I just don’t get it.
October 4th, 2007 at 3:03 pm
Thanks for the info in your site. I’m just starting to get serious about my finances, and since my occupation typically doesn’t have benefits and retirement plans, and since I’m starting a bit late in life (36 y.o.), it is easy to feel overwhelmed, and to procrastinate even more. I like how you break things down to the basics, using yourself as an example to share the decision making process.
Now I feel that I CAN take charge of my money and retirement savings, and I’m taking baby steps already!
Jared Teems - wow, I’m so impressed. I’m guessing you are a college student? The fact that you are only 18 and making minimum wage, inspires me that if you can invest in retirement, then I can too! Sounds like you have a good head on your shoulders, and will do well in life. I only wish I had started at your age!
October 6th, 2007 at 9:24 am
[...] #3: Looked a bit into Roth IRAs after reading Get Rich Slowly’s articles on them (link is to one of the most basic). Planning to do that in a few months [...]
October 23rd, 2007 at 5:14 pm
[...] How to start a Roth IRA and where to do it [...]
October 24th, 2007 at 2:02 pm
[...] 0: How compound returns favor the young Part 1: What is a Roth IRA and why should you care? Part 2: How to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it) Part 3: Which investments are best for a Roth IRA? Part 4: Questions and answers about Roth [...]
October 27th, 2007 at 10:05 pm
Zecco actually charges $10 for mutual fund trades, whereas the first 10 ETF trades would be free.
TDAmeritrade’s Izone is a lot cheaper if you’re buying mostly mutual funds and they also dont’ have annual maintenance fees for retirement accounts.
October 31st, 2007 at 1:18 pm
Has anyone looked at opening an IRA with or had any previous experience with Janus? I’m considering opening a Roth IRA with them but was wondering if anyone here had any comments about them. Their website says that a person can open an Roth IRA with a $1,000 minimum initial investment; $500 minimum if you sign up for a $100 or more monthly automatic investment plan. As far as fees, their website says, “Janus does not currently charge any custodial account fees for opening or maintaining your Roth IRA.”
Link:
https://ww4.janus.com/Janus/Retail/StaticPage?jsp=jsp/Account/TypesOfAccounts/RothIRAAccountType.jsp
October 31st, 2007 at 3:22 pm
This is the best Roth IRA for dummies info I have read so far. There are a gazillion websites where you can read about IRA’s including irs.gov, but they’re all so confusing and not explained very well! This one is simple and explains step by step how to open an IRA. THANK YOU VERY MUCH=)
October 31st, 2007 at 6:26 pm
Lisa, my only recommendation would be to look at a few other companies before you take the plunge. Janus is a decent mutual fund company and I assume that is the reason why you would want your Roth IRA with them, but there are other options out there like Fidelity and Vanguard that have lower cost options. Just make sure you have due diligence before you take the plunge.
November 6th, 2007 at 4:01 pm
Is there such a thing as a Roth IRA “savings” account that gets rates comparable to a good “regular” savings accounts (5% APR or higher)? Is there a reason this is so difficult to find information on (at least for me)? It seems like any place that I want to take my Roth IRA to will require me to invest in mutual funds. It is currently in a savings account at Wells Fargo making somewhere around 1%, which I know sucks. I’m just wondering why there are so many savings accounts advertised everywhere giving (relatively) good interest rates but none that I can find for a Roth IRA.
November 6th, 2007 at 5:24 pm
Brent - don’t know about other alternatives, but Sharebuilder has a money market fund that is currently earning 4.35% (7 day yield, as of 5 Nov) I would think that most accounts have a similar option.
November 15th, 2007 at 2:52 pm
I really appreciate your article. I have found out what a Roth IRA is on other sites but amazingly could not find out how/where exactly to get one until i came to your site! I am relatively young, I’ve never made a lot of money. I’m pretty clueless about investing, but I’m trying to change that. I think this is good for me to start saving for retirement.
Can you tell me if there is anyway to control where the money goes? I’m trying to understand if money I invest in Roth IRA contributes to mutual funds. If so, do I have a choice in which companies are in the mutual fund? I want to avoid funding companies I may be ethically against.
November 29th, 2007 at 1:25 am
[...] my self-directed retirement savings last year. I managed to make the full contribution to my 2006 Roth IRA. I’ve contributed $2,000 so far this year, and intend to max out my plan by the middle of [...]
November 30th, 2007 at 8:12 am
Hi, I was doing some research on retirement plans. I came across this article and it was the catalyst I was looking for to make my decision. I went with Fidelity (Roth IRA). The financial advisor was extremely helpful and answered all of my novice questions. I’m 23 and I feel great about having a retirement plan. Thank you for your help. Now, I’m an avid reader.
December 12th, 2007 at 11:27 am
Do any of “The Big Three” allow you to purchase QQQQ, SPY, or ETFs?
December 13th, 2007 at 2:56 pm
This is a great article. I want to open a Roth IRA soon and had no idea where. After researching for a while, I have decided I want to go with either Fidelity’s or Vanguard’s plans where you pick a retirement year and leave the investing up to them. From what I have read, this is a good way to earn good interest without the worry that goes along with maintaining the account. I want my money to grow, but I don’t want to think about it until I retire. I am 22 right now and want to get my $4000 in for 2007 before the deadline. I have very little expenses right now and have a small emergency savings ($2000, but I will add to that as well), and have paid off all of my debt.
Can anyone give me a good comparison of these specific services offered by Fidelity and Vanguard to help me decide? Also, I am already investing 5% plus 4% match to a 401k, and I will eventually contribute the max to that as well. I plan on tapping that out before using the Roth, so I am not sure what year I should use for the Roth, I was thinking maybe 2055, which would put me around 70. I want a more aggressive approach than standard, is this a good way to achieve that?
December 28th, 2007 at 8:23 am
http://bxcapricorn.wordpress.com/2007/02/25/roth-ira-review/
for what it’s worth.
December 29th, 2007 at 12:47 pm
Does anybody have any experience with Ameritrade Roth IRA?
January 2nd, 2008 at 10:55 pm
I have an employer-sponsored 403(b) plan with Fidelity. I am funding it at $4,500 per year, out of the $7,500 maximum allowed.
Would it be wise for me to deposit, say, $200 per month into a Roth IRA? Or would I be better off to direct those funds into my 403(b) instead?
January 3rd, 2008 at 6:46 am
I have my Roth with a company that charges $200 just to purchase stocks. Besides a mutual fund that I purchased to start my Roth. I have added two ETF’s in my Roth this year, QQQQ & SPY. That’s when I found out about their policy on stocks.
I am looking into adding EFA. I pretty much tell my broker what to do, I don’t need help or guidance in choosing stocks.
I am looking to move my Roth to a low if not no commission per trade company that has local offices in Southwestern CT where I can get help if needed with account problems and gives me online control of my account. I plan to go long on my Roth investments and don’t mind paying a yearly maintenance fee by check, I’m paying $35 a year right now.
Schwab and Vanguard are across the street from each other near me. Zecco.com looks promising but they don’t have local, offices do they?
January 3rd, 2008 at 6:56 am
$200 to purchase stocks? Holy cow.
Matt you can put $15,500 this year into your 403b.
With that said, I like the approach of having a 403b AND a Roth. Fidelity is a quality company and all, but I bet you have only 12-15, high expense ratio funds to chose from. So open an account at Vanguard, Fidelity [better choices from them outside the 403b) or even a Bank of America or Sharebuilder. You can then go after index and lower cost mutual funds or even stocks if you do your homework. You have much better options outside the 403b and opening a Roth could also help you with a first time home purchase up to $10K and you can also remove contributions without penalty, NOT that you want to do that, but if you are head strong, it’s nice to know you wont have to jump through hoops if something BIG came up.
You could also tackle buying ETF’s inside the Roth, just make sure you get $500+ into a fund if they charge $7 a trade. Don’t get stuck into buying $100 blocks of something and paying basically a 7% commission every time.
January 4th, 2008 at 3:34 pm
[...] Setup a Roth IRA and schedule monthly contributions to eventually reach your annual [...]
January 17th, 2008 at 5:00 am
[...] contacted me to contribute to his retirement account series with an explanation of Canadian RRSPs. An RRSP is the closest thing Canada has to a 401k or [...]
January 22nd, 2008 at 11:03 am
I am currently in the military and I am stationed in Japan. I have a truck payment of roughly 450.00 dollars and a credit card debt of 4500.00 dollars. Both will be paid off in two years or less. My wife is also in the military so our paycheck is roughly above 4,000.00 a month. What agency do you recommend for a Roth IRA for us, because that is our only debt are those two things we live in free housing and everything. I would greatly appreciate someones time.
January 23rd, 2008 at 10:49 am
I’m 55 ,married and always let my husband do the saving. I put my little bits of money that I earned into savings/checking and CD’s. I now want to invest in something more lucrative/aggressive. I also want to diversify. I am looking into Roth IRA’s. (I only know the basics). I was told by an aquaintance, to look into municipal funds. I don’t know what any of this stuff really is, but am willing to learn.I have @15,000 to invest and I’m not sure where to go. Again I would like to diversify, going beyond what I just mentioned. I even need to change my checking acct because the rates are so bad.Federal fund rates just went down today .I know this won’t help me.I am a beginner, but because of my age, I ‘m wondering if I should not invest like a beginner. (I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Vanguaard Star Mutual Funds). Should I invest in something like that and something more aggressive? I am also interested in socially conscious stuff. I really believe that the wave of the future would be environmental stuff but don’t have a clue how to do that. I also work part time and can contribute monthly if need be.
January 26th, 2008 at 7:22 pm
[...] #3: Looked a bit into Roth IRAs after reading Get Rich Slowly’s articles on them (link is to one of the most basic). Planning to do that in a few months [...]
January 27th, 2008 at 4:33 pm
ofcourse ING charges fees—they are in the business of making money they wont do it for $10 and no other fees as stated in the article. there are hidden fees with many investments. Have you checked the prospectus.
The more you know and then apply the better off one is. I love the roth ira if you can do one. I hope to make too much money this year to qualify.
most people make mistakes by thinking they know the rules when they do not
February 11th, 2008 at 6:33 pm
I’m in my mid-twenties and want to open a Roth IRA but given the stock market’s horrible performance lately, would you guys recommend opening an account a few months from now? I’d hate to open an account and watch its value immediately go down. Any advice would be much appreciated!
February 12th, 2008 at 7:41 am
[...] was putting toward debt can now be used for investing. I’m making maximum contributions to my Roth IRA, of course, but that still leaves several hundred dollars each month available for other purposes. [...]
February 13th, 2008 at 10:08 am
my normal tax bracket is 18%…
this year it will be 28%…
question is would i be better off putting more in my traditional 401k and IRA and let it ride until i am back down to my normal tax bracket and then convert it over to a roth thus paying on the money at my lower tax bracket.
February 14th, 2008 at 8:03 am
I just opened a Roth with Fidelity using automatic $200 deposits. Am I correct in my understanding that my initial contributions will be held in a money market account until I have accumulated the $2500 needed to make an initial mutual fund purchase?
February 15th, 2008 at 8:00 am
I did it!
I opened my Roth with Vanguard this morning. The array of Vanguard index funds makes me drool and I am so excited to begin my investing life with them!
I’m aggressively paying down my car loan so my monthly contribution is pretty puny but I can’t wait to max that sucker out!
February 16th, 2008 at 3:17 am
to reply to Maggie: Municipal Bond Funds are of interest primarily if you need tax relief. The dividends tend to be small, not unlike savings accounts, but not taxed (I don’t know if they are figured for AMTs or not.)
If you’re concerned about “aggressive” vs “conservative” investing, you first need a picture of what you have, what you need, and then you can think about splitting your investments into the different strategies. Do NOT tell a broker you want to pursue aggressive strategies, that’s his cue to put you in high-risk speculative investments. Depending on the amount you have to invest, you might want to talk to a financial planner whom you pay, not an agent for a company.
February 18th, 2008 at 6:32 pm
[...] In the meantime, research possible locations for your IRA. As I mentioned before, Vanguard is an excellent choice, though you might consider Fidelity or T. Rowe Price. (Read my post about how to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it). [...]
February 18th, 2008 at 6:47 pm
[...] Open a retirement account If you’re young, you probably don’t think you need to start a retirement account. You’re wrong. No matter how old you are, now is the time to begin saving for retirement. Compound returns favor the young, and in a big way! (Here’s an illustration of the cost of waiting one year.) In The Automatic Millionaire, David Bach writes: The single biggest investment mistake you can make [is] not using your [retirement] plan and not maxing it out. [...]
February 18th, 2008 at 6:50 pm
[...] will continue to fund my retirement account. The Roth IRA contribution limit increases to $5,000 in 2008. I aim to make the maximum [...]
February 19th, 2008 at 5:48 pm
[...] J.D. offers information on IRAs. [...]
February 21st, 2008 at 7:44 am
Rob, open one now. When the market is down the market is cheap. Now is the time to buy. When you are young a down market is good.
February 22nd, 2008 at 5:01 am
[...] save too little. Set goals! Fund your retirement. Open a savings account and make automatic [...]
February 25th, 2008 at 10:10 pm
I have my Roth IRA at Vanguard, my wife’s Roth IRA is at T Rowe Price. I like the lower cost index funds at Vanguard a little better, but could recommend either of these companies.
February 27th, 2008 at 11:00 am
[...] consider starting with 3%, and then moving to 6% after a few months. If you’ve decided to start a Roth IRA, schedule a $25 monthly contribution. When you know that this is doable, bump the contribution to [...]
March 10th, 2008 at 10:21 am
I am 61 and have 4000 in the bank after all of those years. I work in the domestics and have not ever learned how to save. I have now started. I have a job that pays 65K and it might not be for a full year. she is 94 and could die tomorrow. then I have to spend what I saved waiting for the agency to get me another position. all positions were like that.
can I do a roth IRA? I want to retire at the age of 67. I then can have a part time job and still collect my total SS I am scared to invest because I have always needed my money.
March 12th, 2008 at 4:47 pm
Hi JD,
Great blog post. I’m 23 and make around $65k a year. I’m thinking about starting an IRA now because I have a lot of extra cash, even though I am still paying back student loans and have a $10k car loan for my M3. Do you think it is smart to invest in my retirement now or wait until I pay off my loan debt?
Also, I am getting about $2k back in taxes, and was thinking about putting that in a Roth IRA. I heard it is smart to do that every year with your tax return. Just wanted to know your thoughts. Thanks,
Cody
March 12th, 2008 at 11:04 pm
@Cody:
Start saving now! Even if you have debt, you should save some. I heard that you cannot use your tax refund to fund a Roth IRA because Roth IRAs are required to be funded by wage income only. But, considering how a tax refund is money you paid based on wages, I suppose it would fit in this category. Best to consult a tax professional or call one of the investment houses who handle these things.
March 13th, 2008 at 6:01 am
Cody, definitely open a Roth IRA. If your employer offers a 401(k) or 403(b) account, fund that enough to get the employer match (if any), and maybe more. It will reduce your taxible income.
It would also be a good idea to open a Roth IRA now, because once you’re earning $99,000 or more per year, the amount you’re allowed to contribute tapers off and approaches zero. Given your relatively high income for your age, it’s likely that there will come a point when you’re no longer eligible to contribute to a Roth IRA.
Also, Waylon: I think the requirement about contr