You’ve heard how awesome Roth IRAs are and how starting one now can mean big bucks when you’re older. You’ve even done some research so you have a vague idea of how a Roth IRA works. Now what? How do you actually start one yourself? It’s surprisingly easy to set up a retirement account and to begin investing in your future.
Before you invest
Putting money in savings accounts for retirement is important, but there are other aspects of personal finance, and you should take care of two of them before opening a Roth IRA.
- Tuck away at least $1,000 for emergencies.
- Pay off your credit card debt. At the very least, make significant headway on your debt and have a plan for its elimination. (I chronicled my choice between debt and savings in April.)
Here’s one excellent way to begin your retirement savings: When you’ve finished paying off your debt, take the amount you were using for this each month and, instead of spending it, stick it into a retirement account. You’ve already developed the habit of using the money to improve your financial life; this is just another way to do it!
Where to open a Roth IRA
Deciding where to open your Roth IRA is the most difficult part of the process! Many financial institutions offer IRAs. Each place has its own strengths and weaknesses. It’s important to search for a company that suits your needs. Don’t fret about finding the perfect match — find a good match and then get the IRA in motion. Questions to ask during your research include:
- Is there a minimum initial investment? Minimum contributions?
- What sorts of fees are assessed to the account?
- Does the company offer automatic contributions?
- What investment options are available? Can you invest in stocks? Mutual funds? Real estate?
- Is it possible to download statements automatically into Quicken?
- How reputable is the provider?
If you already have an investment advisor, ask her for recommendations, but look for other options, too. Some banks and credit unions offer Individual Retirement Accounts. My credit union, for example, has Roth accounts, but they’re limited to certificates of deposit at 1.50%. ING Direct offers Roth IRAs with a $10 annual fee and no other commissions or fees. Their investment minimums are low, but their universe of funds is very limited.
If you’re willing to make some decisions on your own, you can open a self-directed IRA through a mutual fund company or through an online discount brokerage.
The Big Three
In his guest post “An Introduction to Mutual Funds”, Vintek recommended starting at one of the Big Three: Fidelity, Vanguard, or T. Rowe Price.
I call these fund families the Big Three not only because they’re enormous, but also because they have a variety of funds that cover every investment style and segment you could wish for. [...] If you’re just starting out, you should probably pick one family and stay with it. You’ll be able to track all your investments more easily in one place.
I explored each company’s web site to discover what sorts of Roth IRA options they offered for beginning investors. Here’s what I found.
Fidelity Investments offers a no-fee IRA. There’s a $2,500 minimum initial deposit, but this is waived if you commit to $200/month automatic contributions. They offer 4,500 mutual funds, about a quarter of which have no transaction fee. In short, you can open a no-cost IRA at Fidelity with a $200 starting investment if you invest in mutual funds and you agree to contribute $200/month. Apply for a Roth IRA with Fidelity.
It’s also possible to open a no-cost Roth IRA at The Vanguard Group. To do this, you must elect to receive electronic statements and start with $1000 in the company’s STAR fund. (The STAR fund is an mutual fund of mutual funds, a safe choice for beginners.) Additional contributions require a minimum of $100 unless you use their Automatic Investment Plan, in which case the minimum is $50. There are no fees to purchase the STAR fund. Start a Roth IRA at Vanguard.
T. Rowe Price charges $10/year for Roth IRA accounts until you have a balance above $5,000, after which there is no fee. You need $1,000 to open your IRA, but this minimum goes away if you sign up to contribute at least $50/month with the Automatic Asset Builder. There are no sales fees or commissions to invest this money in T. Rowe Price mutual funds. Open an IRA at T. Rowe Price.
The information here will get you started with the minimum investment and the lowest costs. If you have more money at your disposal, you have more options. It’s possible to make much more sophisticated trades with each of these places — purchasing stocks, for example — but not for free. I encourage you to look more closely at each company’s web site, and to read the literature for each investment you consider.
Discount Brokers
Discount brokers appeal to many people because they have a low barrier to entry. They offer lower fees than traditional brokers because they don’t have research departments and they don’t offer investment advice. They only act as middlemen for trading in the market.
I opened my Roth IRA at Sharebuilder after reading David Bach’s The Automatic Millionaire. It felt great to finally open a retirement account. (Seriously — I was stoked.) Now, though, I fret about the costs. Sharebuilder charges a $25 annual custodial fee for a Roth IRA, plus $4 every time I make an automatic investment. (Other transactions cost $15.95!) Because I’m careful, I’m not hit with a lot of fees. Though I love how easy it is to automate investing through Sharebuilder, my research for this article revealed two other discount brokers that look appealing.
People have all sorts of good things to say about Firstrade. This company offers a no-fee Roth IRA, but requires a $500 minimum initial investment and $100 subsequent investments. Firstrade charges $6.95 per transaction, though they do offer a wide range of mutual funds that one can purchase for no charge. Firstrade looks good for somebody who wants to invest in mutual funds, but doesn’t want to (or can’t afford to) sign on with a larger mutual fund company. Firstrade does not offer online registration, but you can begin the Roth IRA application process here.
Zecco
, the new kid on the block, charges $30 a year to carry a Roth IRA. That’s it. There are no other commissions or fees unless you’re a very heavy trader. There are no minimum balances or contributions. From what I can tell, the Zecco investment universe includes most stocks and exchange-traded funds, including some tasty Vanguard index funds. Open a Roth IRA at Zecco.
Discount brokers are a good option if you’re primarily interested in purchasing individual stocks instead of mutual funds. They’re also a fine choice if you want to get started now, but can’t afford a program with one of the mutual fund companies. Another option if you’re short on cash is to open an CD-based IRA at a bank until you’ve saved enough for the minimum initial deposit at one of the Big Three.
How to open a Roth IRA
Here’s a secret: opening a Roth IRA is easy. Have you ever filled out a job applicaton? Have you ever applied for a credit card? Have you ever opened a bank account? Of course you have. That’s exactly what the process is like to start an individual retirement account.

Some firms require that you download the forms and then to mail or fax them to the company. Most places, however, provide online applications. Before you begin the application, you will need the following:
- Your social security number.
- Your bank account information.
- Your employment information.
- Some money. (Depending on where you choose to open your IRA, or you may need $25 or you may need $3000. )
- About an hour of uninterrupted time. (Actually, you probably only need fifteen minutes, but allocate more time just to be safe.)
Gather this information in one location when you’re ready to begin. (If you’re opening an IRA through a brick-and-mortar bank or broker, take this info with you.) From this point, it’s simply a matter of answering simple questions. (English Major has a walk-thru of opening an IRA at Vanguard.)
Once you’ve completed the application process, you will be asked to transfer money to your account. This money will probably earn interest in a money market fund until you choose an investment. (In part three of this series, we’ll discuss good investment options for Roth IRAs.)
I’m a big fan of automatic investment plans. Most of the companies I mentioned earlier in this article offer some sort of program that will pull money from your bank account every month to invest in stocks or mutual funds that you designate. By setting aside $50 or $100 or $500 in this way, saving becomes a habit. You don’t notice the money is missing. It’s a regular expense becomes incorporated into your budget.

Now what?
That’s all there is to it. Really. The most difficult part of this process is deciding where to open an account. Set aside an hour or two some Saturday morning to explore your options over a cup of coffee. With some research, you should be able to find a company and program that fits your place in life.
I always believed opening a retirement account difficult. “Besides,” I thought, “I don’t have money to invest.” Last year I forced myself to find the time and the cash to open a Roth IRA, and it has been one of the best financial decisions I’ve ever made. My account balance is small, but I love to watch it grow!

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The GRS Introduction to Roth IRAs series Part 0: How compound returns favor the young Part 1: What is a Roth IRA and why should you care? Part 2: How to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it) Part 3: Which investments are best for a Roth IRA? Part 4: Questions and answers about Roth IRAs |
Remember: I’m just learning about IRAs myself. I’m sure to have missed some things. Fortunately, there are some sharp Get Rich Slowly readers out there to clear up mistakes. (I’ll incorporate corrections into the body of the post.)
This article is about Basics, Investing, Money Hacks, Retirement





I was recently looking at the Fidelity Roth IRA. I wanted to waive the initial minimum deposit, but was wondering if the $200/month is constant. In other words, do you have to commit to that amount every month? If so, it seems better to just wait until you have the minimum required and then control how much you want to put in each month.
I wanted to open one for both my wife and myself, so $400 total is a bit much (on top of our other savings, 401ks, bills, etc.) to be locked into for life just to avoid the initial $2500.
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My father, a regular working guy who financed a 25-year retirement and left an estate gave this advice: always fund your retirement to the max, even if you have to borrow to do so.
Of course he didn’t envision folks carrying the kind of credit card debt that is now common. I still think that it’s valid if you’re flush but have no cash flow to borrow $ for the IRA, provided you are disciplined about paying the debt off. If you have family members with no money, you might be able to borrow from them – that would perhaps go over better than borrowing for something material. You can use FamilyCircle or a similar site to manage such a loan.
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This is exactly the information I have been looking for! Thanks!
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Sorry, I meant “family members WITH money”. I am a big advocate of parents helping their young adult kids by funding, or at least supplementing, their Roth IRAs, since it rewards work.
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Frist of all:Congrats on your excellent blog! I loved reading the archives.
I have kind of a dumb question:all this reading about IRAs and stuff has made me want to look in to saving and investing for the future.The problem is I am not in the U.S. I do have a bank account with a U.S bank though. Can I still start a Roth IRA?
I cannot save in my country´s currency simply because inflation will eat the whole thing so most of the money I make I try to save it in US dollars.
Thanks!
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I have a Roth IRA (as well as some taxable accounts) through T. Rowe Price and we set them up online. It was a couple years ago, before their big website re-design, but I’m sure they didn’t eliminate that functionality.
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I’d add another question when doing this type of investment research. Is the plan open or closed, meaning can you buy any product or are you limited to the company’s products. For example, if you went with Vanguard for your Roth IRA you might have non-Vangaurd products you are interested in and some companies limit you to their products.
Good stuff JD!
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Hey, J.D., I think this is a great couple of articles–if you were interested in adding the particulars of the Vanguard account-opening process, I did a walkthrough here from when I opened my own Roth there.
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JR,
Great article. Just a couple of point about Firstrade. They do now offer online signup with their ROTH IRA. You have to fax in a couple of forms signed, but i think this is the case with most places. When I signed up they only required a $50 min deposit.
Once again great article, I will definitely bookmark it and send it out as a reference for my family and friends looking to get started.
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I use sharebuider for my all Investment accounts right now. The fees look high, but if you upgrade your plan to advantage ($20/month) your IRA fees are waved and you get 20 trades/month (and each additional trade is just a $1).The fees for real time drops to just $11.95 (all sells are real-time for some reason).
I chose sharebuilder because I can use limited amounts of money (hey, i’m 18 and on minimum wage so that amounts to about $10/week of available cash) and buy fractional shares of almost any stock or ETF.
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I have my Roth IRA at T. Rowe Price. I had no problems doing everything online. I never had to fill out any forms and what not.
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I’ve got a question here for you sharp folks.
My wife and I just had our first child a couple of weeks ago so now we’re interested in putting some money aside for college. We’ve decided to not do things like 529′s or other eduction only options but instead just invest the money straight up.
Here’s my question: When considering long term savings goals should we setup totally seperate investment accounts or lump them together to maximize money growth?
For example, say we go with Vanguard. Should I setup an account just for College and then another account just for Retirement and then another for a future House? Or should we lump all those in one investment account (maintaining proper portfolio diversification of course) in order to make the most of interest growth?
Can the term “IRA” include these other types of goals or is that a legal no-no?
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You T. Rowe Price people have me back digging through the site. If I find an electronic-only way to open a Roth IRA, I’ll amend this entry.I’ve added info for applying online at T. Rowe Price.loading....
One quick thing: I would STRONGLY recommend that you have more than $1,000 in an emergency fund before starting a Roth IRA, ESPECIALLY if you have children. If you have only $1,000 in an emergency fund, Murphy’s Law dictates that the day you fund a Roth IRA will be the day that your car dies and your hot water heater blows up. We have more than $10K in our emergency fund right now and we still don’t think it’s enough (one child, another one on the way) – we are shooting for $30-40K at this point.
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Rafael: I think that you need at the very least US earnings to open a Roth IRA.
You can usually invest in dollar denominated funds in countries outside the US. You certainly can from the UK. Its reasonably likely that they will be more expensive than investing in the US, and investing in your local currency, partly due to economies of scale.
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@Trent
I think this is one of those philosophical differences where each person is going to have to choose what’s right for them. I’m carrying $1,000 emergency fund, paying down my debt, and investing in my IRA. I haven’t run into any problems yet, though I know there is a risk that I might. When my debt is eliminated (still on target for 25 March 2008), I will boost my emergency fund to $5,000, which is where I’ll let it sit. But then I don’t have any kids and my wife and I have a joint $5,000 emergency fund for the house.
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I use Fidelity, mainly because my work 401k is also through them. This is exactly the kind of step by step info I could have used in january! I sort of just winged it, but thus far it has been okay.
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I’m a little scared to move my IRA to Zecco since I doubt their business model will work. The hassles of changing brokers when they collapse or raise fees just isn’t worth it.
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@ Trent
I guess it just depends on how risk averse you are and your life circumstances. I tend to be more risk averse so I like having a good cash cushion in a high yield savings account. $20k right now. But for other’s I’m sure less is fine. $1000 though sounds really low but if you’ve got some other asset you could liquidate quickly I could see investing the rest.
So many options…
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One thing that I think is being overlooked…I’m almost positive you can have more than one Roth ACCOUNT as long as the sum of all accounts falls under the total limit.
Thus, you could use Zecco for buying stocks for your Roth, but if you really liked Vanguard mutual funds (and for some reason wanted to go with those instead of ETFs), then you could have another Roth account at Vanguard.
Hopefully someone can confirm (or deny) this…But as I said, I’m almost positive this is the case.
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You can have multiple Roth IRA’s – I know because I’ve done it. Cashed them in for a house downpayment.
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I’m at T.Rowe Price as well. For their Index funds you must pay $10/year unless the balance is $10k or greater.
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Great article even for someone still learning themself. I’ve noticed a lot of posts to do with IRA lately. You can never post enough. Keep it up!
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James nailed it a bit there (w/ shy confirming). Utilize different Roth accounts to trade according to how you feel. E.g., certain brokerages don’t have access to all the funds, ETFs, or individual stock.
but for many people, sticking w/ one brokerage like vanguard and buying a no-load, low fee and low expense fund will be fairly ideal.
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@Covert7
Re: Multiple accounts– Like so many things, it depends. If you’re leaving your contributions in cash, you’re more likely to find that your brokerage has multiple tiers of interest rates on aggegrated funds, in which case one big pile is going to yield a higher return. If you’re investing your contributions, they’re going to grow (or shrink) at the same rate regardless, so the only difference is whether there is a tax-advantaged account in which the investments are better held.
I have to make some assumptions on how much you’re able to save, but it sounds to me like you should probably have a Roth for you, a Roth for your wife, and a taxable-savings account (aka regular brokerage investment account) for the rest. Although some companies let you assign sub-accounts (i.e. child-1 college, retirement, future home) without physically subdividing your money, you may need to keep track of those “accounts” yourself using Excel, Quicken, etc.
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It should be noted that there are income limits for making Roth contributions–$95k single and $150k married filing jointly. If your adjusted gross income exceeds those amounts, you may not be able to contribute the full amount or at all to a Roth.
See the details here:
http://tinyurl.com/2jw8ab
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@ Tinyhands
Thanks for that info Tinyhands. I see what you’re saying here and I think my further questions on the matter are probably better suited to the Forums rather than taking up more space on this post.
Thanks for the help!
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anyone have any opinions or used Charles Schwab for their Roth or IRA’s in general?
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I noticed you said Pay off credit card debt. Should one pay off credit card debt or do you mean all debt (car, student loans, etc)?
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Here is something to consider: Have a Roth, a 401(k), and additional investments, and you want to diversify, which investments should go into the Roth? It would seem to me that the investments which generate income that is taxed at the highest rate should go into the Roth since then that income will never be taxed.
Opinions?
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@Moneymonk, You should pay off high APR debt. Assume your ROTH will earn an average 8% APY in the long term, any debt with interest higher than 8% should be paid off before investing in ROTH, any debt with interest lower than 8% such as student loans and so on can wait.
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Can I open up more then 1 Roth IRA, say one at ING and another at T Row Price?
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re: Sharebuilder I’ve got a Roth account with them and am happy with it, but I find their Gain & Loss reports to be misleading at best. Let me give an example, using nice, round, purely hypothetical numbers:
At the beginning of the year, I buy $100 of stock YYY, paying a commision of $15 (total cost = $115, value of stock = $100) At this point, the gain/loss report will show a loss of $15.
At the end of the year, the stock is still worth $100, but I got dividends of $5/quarter which I had automatically reinvested (nice feature, and there is no commision to do so)
So, I think I’ve paid $100 for the stock, plus the $15 commision and gained $20 in dividends, giving me a value of $120 against a cost of $115, for a $5 profit.
Sharebuilder instead will show me with a fund valued at $120, but with a loss of $35! The report counts the dividend as a cost, not as a gain.
I’ve asked them about this, and they tell me I can edit the history in the gain/loss report to remove the dividend history so that I get the number I expect. I am loathe to do that, because I don’t want to lose that history.
Other than this particular quirk (can somebody with a background in accounting tell me if this is the standard way to do these?), I am quite happy with this account.
Dave
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[...] How compound returns favor the young Part 1: What is a Roth IRA and why should you care? Part 2: How to start a Roth IRA (and where to do it) Part 3: Choosing investments for Roth IRAs coming soon! Part 4: Questions and answers about Roth [...]
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I did have to mail in a Roth IRA application to T. Rowe Price when I opened my sons account, but he was/is a minor
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Just a reminder, folks: I’ll be collating your questions on the first three parts of the Roth IRA series, and then doing my best to find answers for them. If you don’t get an answer in this thread, check Get Rich Slowly later next week to see if I’ve managed to find anything out for you…
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It should also be noted that yearly maximums for Roth IRA’s are limited to $4,000 for the 2007 tax year and previous years, and will be limited to $5,000 for the 2008 tax year.
This is a good thing to know so that you can have the option of setting up fund transfers (either as a net or percentage from your paycheck, a bank account, etc.) at $333.33 per month for 2007, and $416.66 for 2008, you’ll be sure to hit the maximum by the end of the year.
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Income and contribution limits were brought up in previous parts of the article.
To Rance:
I believe you are correct, given that gains are (currently) untaxed in a Roth, it would stand to reason that one might consolidate both their tax-disadvantaged investments as well as any shorter-term/riskier investments that they hope will do quite well. In this way, you should be minimizing taxation.
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I’m really surprised nobody has mentioned Scottrade yet. (Unless Scottrade is an established loser?) I opened a Roth IRA with them in January. They only required a $500 minimum initial investment, and I haven’t paid any fees so far. If you buy into one of their approved no-load, no-fee mutual funds, the transaction is free. And they have tons of funds to choose from.
Downsides are you can’t electronically transfer my money in, and if you don’t buy a no-load, no-fee fund, the transaction fee is something like $34. But I use the online bill pay feature at my bank to send the check every month, and I don’t plan on buying into a fund with loads and fees. So I’m pretty stoked about a no-fee IRA. It works for me.
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Re: Emergency fund first: You can take out the amount invested from your ROTH without a penalty, for any reason, right? (I know you can take out like $10k for a house, but I’m pretty sure you can extract your cash deposits too…)
If this is so, is there any reason someone like JD (who wants to do a ROTH *now* before building up a Trent-size emergency fund) couldn’t use this as an extended emergency fund if his initial fund runs dry? If you can do this, then it seems like the ROTH vs emergency fund doesn’t have much weight beyond the 5% the e-fund would get in online savings.
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Ryan,
You can take $10,000 out to buy your first house with no penalties, or to continue your education. If you’re under 59 1/2 you’ll pay a penalty (up to 10% I think) for any other uses.
The advantage of a Roth over a Traditional IRA is that you’ve already paid taxes on the money you’re putting in, and anything you earn in a Roth won’t be taxed, but if you pull it out before 59 1/2 you’ll be penalized (10%) and the penalty is the same for a Traditional IRA. With a Traditional IRA you take pre tax dollars and place it in the IRA, when you take it out (before or after 59 1/2) you’ll pay taxes on it.
Lets say your tax margin is 15%.
To invest in an Roth IRA, you’d pay the 15% before investing.
Example(Roth):
You earn $100, your tax would be $15, thus leaving you with $85 to invest in. Lets now say you invest this amount once a month for a total of $1020. Doing this at 5% interest compounded monthly you’d earn over 20 years about $35,083.44
Example #2(Traditional):
You earn $100, since you’re investing(all of it) in a Traditional IRA all of that money would go right into your IRA. Lets factor everything in like last time, earn 5% compounded monthly over 20 years would fetch you $41,274. Sounds great, doesn’t it? Well, you have yet to pay any taxes on that amount.
You can expect to pay about $6983* in taxes, that is if you took it out all at once, thus leaving you with $34291. A little shy of $1000 less then the Roth IRA.
*I used a 2005 tax table based upon a single person’s income. Found here:
http://www.fairmark.com/begin/bracket.htm
Here are some good places to start learning about IRAs.
http://www.irs.gov/retirement/article/0,,id=111413,00.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Individual_Retirement_Account
http://www.fool.com/money/allaboutiras/allaboutiras.htm
Take Care, and take control of your money!
Adam B.
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To correct an error, I meant “Tax bracket” instead of “tax margin”
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@ Ryan:
You are correct about the house withdrawal, but that’s it:
-Earnings withdrawals become automatically qualified in the tax year the participant reaches age 59.5 or becomes disabled, so long as the account is “seasoned” (established for five or more years).
-Up to $10,000 in earnings withdrawals are considered qualified if the money is used to acquire a principal residence. This house must be acquired by the Roth IRA owner, their spouse, or their lineal ancestors and descendants. The owner or qualified relative who receives the “first time homeowner” distribution must not have owned a home in the previous 24 months.
Via http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roth_IRA
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JD:
Sorry I didn’t get you the information you asked for — I’ve been keeping crazy-long hours.
BTW, I too set up everything for TRowe Price online and it was as smooth as butter. Their online interface to manage the account is nice too — I can automatically change my contributions, open other accounts, etc.
DB
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Ryan, Adam, Waylon —
It is my understanding that at any time, an account holder can withdraw up to the total of his contribution from a Roth IRA with no penalty. In other words, Ryan’s suggestion that a Roth IRA might be used as an emergency fund does hold true. Now I may be wrong on this, but I don’t think that I am. I’ll get verfication this evening.
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If you are going to choose mutual funds for your IRA’s, don’t forget to take into account the expense ratios for the funds. Some companies considerably higher ratios than others. Vanguard has a good expense ratio calculator on their site to compare funds btw companies.
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JD — that’s my understanding too.
The argument *against* using a Roth as an emergency fund is that once you’ve withdrawn funds from a Roth, you *can’t* put them back. The risk is that if you tap your Roth, you make a permanent hole in your retirement savings. And emergency funds do have a habit of occasionally being needed…
Also consider that you really need your emergency fund to be relatively stable; while a retirement fund, with its very long timescale, can take more risk and so have more volatility. What if you need your emergency fund in the middle of a stock market slump?
If you’re just starting out and are faced with a choice between emergency fund or Roth, starting a Roth with the understanding that you might tap it in an emergency is worth considering. But given their very different purposes, it’s much better to keep them separate. (I view funds that go into my Roth as entirely inviolate: once they go in I don’t plan to see them again until retirement.)
And I’ll add a nod for Vanguard, as long as you can afford an initial investment big enough for the fund you want into ($1000 for STAR, $3000 for Target Retirement funds) — I’ve been very happy with them, and the automatic $333.33 debit from checking wors very well for me.
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Excellent Site. My father in law recently passed away at the age of 52 from a Brain Tumor (hope you never have to deal with one of those in your life!) and my mother in law is pretty uneducated in finances. I’ve been helping her roll over his 401k into an IRA and appreciate your posts on various companies.
I’m making some $ through online surveys these days after a few hours on the computer and am planning on taking those earnings and place them into an IRA as well, thanks to your advice!
http://deathtodebt.blogspot.com
-Rex
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Does anyone know if it’s possible to roll a 401k into a Roth IRA?
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Covert7 — One technique you can use for financing college is to save that money in your (and spouse’s) Roth IRAs. The contributions can be withdrawn without penalty, and the growth will still be there for retirement. Of course, if you can afford to save more than $4000/yr/person, you’ll need to look at other investment vehicles. Be sure to compare your state’s 529 plan with the Coverdell ESA (formerly Education IRA). My understanding of college financial aid is that they take everything in the student’s name, but only a part of what’s in the parents’ names.
As far as Roth IRA companies, I’ve been pleased with Fidelity. Their website is imperfect (but still quite usable), and their trading fees are high, but regular stock trades in a retirement account are a no-no anyway. Used to use T. Rowe Price. Also good, but maintenance fees were higher.
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