25 Useful Financial Rules of Thumb Print
Monday, 9th March 2009 (by J.D.)This article is about Hints and Tips, Money Hacks, Savings
Lately I’ve found myself using more and more financial rules of thumb. A rule of thumb is a general guideline, an easy way to approximate a value quickly.
It’s not meant to be completely accurate. On a whim this weekend, I gathered together many of the general rules I’ve been using, as well as several others I found online. Thanks to those who follow me on Twitter, who also contributed suggestions.
For example, @FourPillars wrote, “I hate rules of thumb — they are a poor substitute for proper analysis.” He’s right, of course. Careful analysis always yields the best results. (And there are times when you need the advice of a financial professional.) All the same, it’s often convenient to get a quick estimate of financial numbers. For those situations, it’s helpful to know guidelines like the ones I’ve listed below.
Saving
The number one rule of saving is: Pay yourself first. Set aside your savings every month before you use the money for other things, including bills. Always pay yourself before anything else.
The standard rule of thumb is to save at least 10% of your income. I think a better goal is to aim for 20%. At MSN Money, Liz Weston writes that if you’re young, you can follow this rule of thumb: “Save 10% for basics, 15% for comfort, 20% to escape.”
Nobody agrees how much you should set aside for an emergency fund. Even the experts offer advice ranging from $1000 up to 12 months of expenses. (The most common suggestions range from three to six months of expenses.) However, via Twitter @The_Weakonomist offered a clever rule of thumb to determine how much to save during a recession: Your emergency fund should cover X months of expenses, where X is the current unemployment rate. In other words, because the U.S. unemployment is at 8.1% right now, you should aim to have enough money in the bank to cover eight months of expenses.
On Twitter, @JoyfulAbode reminds us to bank a raise: “Don’t let raises get to your head. If you get a raise, yay! More for savings! (Maybe take 20% to use in your non-savings budget.)” This is the best way to avoid lifestyle inflation.
Finally, never forget inflation. Inflation is the silent killer of wealth. The commonly-cited average U.S. inflation rate is 3% per year. But the long-term average (since 1913) is about 3.42%. As a rule of thumb, I figure that inflation runs 3.5% per year.
Investing
Because the United States had 25 years of stellar stock-market performance, many of the investing rules of thumb got thrown out the window. Now people are wishing they’d stuck to the basics. One of the most important things you can do is know your risk tolerance before you begin investing. The time to decide how much you can afford to lose in the stock market is before a crash, not after one.
For years, the asset allocation rule of thumb was to have X% of your portfolio invested in stocks, where X is equal to 100 minus your age — with the rest invested in lower-risk investments like bonds. (Thus, if you’re 30, you should have 70% invested in stocks and 30% in bonds.) Over the past ten or twenty years, “experts” began to play with that formula. Since I’ve been writing Get Rich Slowly, I’ve seen all sorts of variations on this rule, with some gurus recommending as much as 140 minus your age invested in stocks. With this guideline, I’d be 100% invested in stocks right now. This is dumb. I suspect that the current market is going to prompt a return to the traditional “100 minus your age” advice. (Another way to think of this is that the bond portion of your portfolio should equal your age, and the rest should be in stocks.)
One rule of thumb I’ve seen many places is to invest no more than 10% of your total savings in your employer’s stock. Remember that diversification is important. If your savings and your job are both with the same company, you have all of your eggs in one basket. This is risky. Famously, many Enron employees were burned when the company went under because they had been encouraged to keep their retirement savings in company stock.
Long-term, the stock market averages about a 10% return. But remember: average is not normal. Also, many experts (including Warren Buffett) expect stock returns to be lower over the next few decades.
Perhaps the granddaddy of all financial rules of thumb is the rule of 72. To determine how long it will take an investment to double, divide 72 by the annual return. Thus, if you’re earning a 4% return, your money will double in approximately 18 years. But if you’re getting 10%, it take just a little over seven years to double your capital.
Homeownership
Via Twitter, @MillionMommyND writes, “Need to cut back? Housing, cars, and taxes dominate most budgets. Make dramatic cuts to these budget busters first.” She’s right. As a rule of thumb, tackle big expenses before small expenses. If you can save 1% when shopping for your home or your car, you’ll save more than if you save 10% each month on your cable television. (Though you should still try to do that, too.) Here are some guidelines for saving on a home:
How much house can you afford? @FrugalTrader writes, “When getting a new mortgage, the balance should be less than 2x your family annual income.” So, if your family makes $120,000 per year, your mortgage should be $240,000 or less.
When lenders calculate how much house a borrower can afford, they use the debt-to-income ratio, a measure of how much of your income goes toward debt. These lending limits have crept upward with time. I’m a strong advocate of being conservative here. I believe your housing costs should be less than 28% of your gross income, and your total monthly debt payments should be less than 36%. These numbers provide ample room but prevent borrowers from being trapped by too much debt.
In the Olden Days, the standard advice was to consider refinancing your home if interest rates dropped by 2%. Closing costs are lower today, and now it often makes sense to refinance your home when interest rates have dropped by 1% from your current mortgage. As always, use this rule of thumb as a flag to start looking, but run the numbers before you take action. (Kris and I are signing on our refinance this morning! We’re dropping from 6.25% to 4.96%.)
Automobiles
After your home, your car is probably your biggest expense. One common rule of thumb when purchasing a car is to buy used, or to buy new and to drive it for ten years. Either one will save you big money. (Do both and you’ll save even more.) Here are a couple of guidelines to use when shopping for a vehicle:
On Twitter, @marubozo suggests the 20/4/10 rule of thumb for buying a car. You should pay at least 20% down, finance for no more that four years, and the payment should be less than 10% of your income. The first part of this rule prevents you from owing more than the car is worth, and the last two parts prevent you from buying more car than you can afford. (@ced1969 offers a different approach: “Never finance a depreciating asset, like a car. Pay cash and immediately start saving for the next one.”)
Here’s another one from Liz Weston: To approximate a new vehicle’s five-year cost of ownership (in monthly terms), double the price tag and divide by 60. Looking at a pimped-out Mini Cooper S? Double that $30,000 sticker price to get $60,000, and then divide by 60. Is it really worth $1,000 a month to get rid of your crummy Ford Focus? (Or bookmark and use the Edmunds True Cost to Own calculator.)
Finally, remember the advice of Tom and Ray, the Car Talk guys: It almost always makes more financial sense to repair your car than to buy a new one.
Retirement
Save for your own retirement before saving for your children’s college education. They can get loans for school. You can’t get loans for retirement. When you’re saving, remember the following:
The standard advice is to aim to replace 80% of your pre-retirement income. I think this rule is lame because it focuses on income and not expenses. Income is irrelevant. It’s what you spend that matters. Instead, I recommend a different rule of thumb: Base your retirement needs on 100% of your pre-retirement expenses — plus 10%.
Another approach to retirement savings says that you’ll need to save about 20x your gross annual income to retire. In other words, if you earn $50,000 per year, you’ll need $1,000,000 to retire. Again, I think this is lame because it focuses on income and not expenses, and expenses are what matter. But still, this can be a handy gauge.
In his fantastic book Work Less, Live More, Bob Clyatt shares a common retirement rule of thumb. If you expect to withdraw from your portfolio for 40 years or more, you can probably safely withdraw and spend 4% of its value every year. (Clyatt notes that you can increase this amount to 4.5% with only “slightly diminished safety”.)
Miscellaneous
According to Consumer Reports, when you’re faced with the repair of an appliance (such as a television or a refrigerator), you should buy a new one if the appliance is more than 8 years old, or if the repair would cost more than half what it would take to buy a replacement.
Here are some general rules for credit cards: If you carry a balance, you want a card with a low interest rate. If you don’t carry a balance, you want a card with rewards. In either case, you want a card without an annual fee. (And if you have trouble with compulsive spending, you don’t want credit cards at all!) For more information, read about how to choose a credit card.
Finally, if you get a windfall, use 1% to treat yourself. (Or maybe 2% tops.) Put the rest in a safe place and ignore it for six months. After you’ve had time to think about it, make your decisions. (Read more: How to manage a windfall successfully.)
Other guidelines
Strictly speaking, rules of thumb deal with numbers. Still, there are a lot of non-numeric guidelines that I think are useful to know. Here are a few:
- Always take the employer match on the 401(k).
- Never touch your retirement savings — except for retirement.
- Never co-sign on a loan.
- Avoid paying interest on anything that loses value. (Note that under normal conditions, home values appreciate slowly, so they’re not included in this guideline.)
- Don’t mess with the IRS. When it comes to taxes, don’t try to cheat. Pay what you owe. Claim all the deductions you deserve, but don’t try to stretch things.
- In general, save an emergency fund first; pay off high-interest debt second; and begin investing (at the same time you pay down remaining debt) last.
- If you’re not willing to pay cash for it, then it doesn’t make sense to buy it on credit.
For more on this subject, check out the following articles:
- Kiplinger’s Personal Finanace: How useful are financial rules of thumb
- MSN Money: 16 favorite money rules of thumb
- Paul’s Tips: Ten good rules-of-thumb for investing
- CNN Money: A cheat sheet for millionaires to be: Financial rules of thumb
- Fairmark.com: Roth IRA rules of thumb
Now it’s your turn. What rules of thumb did I miss? Do you disagree with any of those I suggested? What financial rules of thumb do you use when managing your money?
Photo by Lucian Venutian.

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March 9th, 2009 at 5:14 am
This is a great list. I agree on the big things - keep the home and cars under control. The home, arguably, will increase in value over time. The car never will. I’m very careful with cars - I buy for longevity.
Another point I live by is to keep my fixed monthly expenses low. By that I mean things that are basically subscriptions - cable, TiVo, Netflix, home security, pest control, cell phone, landline, internet, satellite radio, etc, etc. If I can limit these to the things I only need or use I can keep my monthly budget better under control. I hate to pay monthly for something I don’t use.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:27 am
As a student there are a few rules I try to follow:
An education should not be a debt sentence. If working all year round still makes the tuition seem too expensive then maybe you’re better off attending a less prestigious school.
Save for retirement no matter how young you are.
Never buy anything unless you have the cash to pay for it.
Don’t invest into a stock or company unless you understand the business they are in (credit to Warren Buffet).
March 9th, 2009 at 6:29 am
Excellent list and one I’m sure I’ll refer to over and over.
We do a variation on the “bank a raise” rule. My husband usually gets some sort of bonus from his job each year. While these bonuses are pretty reliable, we’ve chosen not to count on them as income (we do not include them when budgeting). Whenever he gets a bonus, we add it directly to our emergency fund. The money never makes it into our regular spending account. At times we’ve dedicated a portion of the bonus for a home improvement project, but always wait until after the bonus has actually come before we spend any of the money.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:30 am
@ Studenomics: I love the phrase “debt sentence.”
March 9th, 2009 at 6:33 am
I am curious about how some of these will be rewritten in future years, or may change people’s goals now.
For example, the CNN article says that a 40-year-old who wants to be a millionaire should have a net worth of at least $300,000. I was on track for that, until the stock market and RE markets dropped. Now I’m wondering, should I think about trying to double my savings to get back to that level?
March 9th, 2009 at 6:36 am
Know what you care about - and spend your money on that. If you have one hobby/passion/love don’t deprive yourself of this. Spend your money on the 1-2 things you love, and cut back on the other stuff.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:42 am
Thanks for including me in your post JD!
Since twitter limits me to just 140 characters, I’ll clarify myself here:
My advice for the emergency fund is only during a recession. Were unemployment to go back down to 4%, I would not then have just 4 months of expenses. I think you should always have at least 6 months. But as unemployment gets higher, it’s smart to continue to increase that amount as long as unemployment increases.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:43 am
I generally love Liz Weston’s advice, and think that the rule of thumb about the cost of a car (sticker price times 2 divided by 60) is interesting — but wouldn’t (sticker price divided by 30) be a simpler formula with the exact same answer?
March 9th, 2009 at 6:46 am
A career rule of thumb that I’ve heard recited several times is - if you’re leaving your job and you tell your employer, never take their counteroffer, even if its more money. They’ll resent you for trying to leave and you’re probably ready to go.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:49 am
@The Weakonomist
I’ll make a clarification in the post.
@Erin
D’oh! Good one. I’m not sure why I didn’t catch that. I’ll post a clarification.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:51 am
Just to note that this rule:
save about 20x your gross annual income to retire
is the same as assuming you’ll spend 80% of your current income in retirement, and can have a safe withdrawal rate of 4%.
I assume that the stockmarket will return about 4% above inflation, and that housing will increase at the same rate as wages (2% above the rate of inflation). Both are specific to the UK - especially for housing.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:52 am
I thought “pay yourself first” meant to give yourself spending money. HA!!!! Well, saving the money will improve my emergency fund. I can’t believe this. No more free spending money for me. And no, I am not a blond.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:54 am
Rather than simply assuming 10% market returns, how about this rule of thumb from John Bogle and William Bernstein:
Market returns over the next 30 years =
current dividend yield on entire market + rate of earnings growth for entire market
(That gives us an expected rate of return of around 8% for the next few decades–approximately in keeping with what Buffett expects also.)
March 9th, 2009 at 6:54 am
“It almost always makes more financial sense to repair your car than to buy a new one.”
I’d be interested in a rule of thumb for how to decide when to stop. If my car is X years old and I have to make repairs that cost Y, …. when does it make sense to stop pumping cash into repairs?
March 9th, 2009 at 6:57 am
A mortgage should cost only twice my annual income? I make £32000 and am the only earner in the family. I don’t think it’s at all possible for me to buy a home in this town for less than about £120000. (The tiny two-bedroom apartment we are currently renting is listed for £175000, down from £185000 a couple of months ago). I don’t see saving a £50000 down payment any time soon (working on my £1000 emergency fund) so I guess that means I’m renting forever.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:57 am
I agree with most of the suggestions, but there is one above that I don’t agree with - that being “If you can’t afford tuition, try a less prestigious school”. I would say that for a lot of people, even the basic state school offers a tuition that they can’t readily afford, especially if you come from a lower/ middle income background. For me, even going to my local school was still at a tuition fee of $3000 per semester - and there was no alternative to this fee other than not going (ie this *was* the equivalent to a state school, and I needed to go there in order to finish off my studies to earn my BA). However, I am proof that this was a good investment - I’ve been able to double my earning power since almost finishing my courses - once I graduate I’ll be making $65K/ year, where as before I was making $36K. I think that is a good investment even if it takes me a while to pay off my student loans because of it… education usually isn’t something that pays off immediately, but it is an investment that pays off in 10+ years, and also in the long run also pays off for your children….(most kids whose parents complete university also complete university themselves, and they usually do so with less debt). I think education is a great investment to make in yourself, and it will increase your earning power, and it will also help you in times of economic downturn (ie helping to shield you somewhat from being the first fired).
I don’t quite understand how investing in a home, which *should* increase slowly in value but where a lot of homes in the past year or so have not, is a better investment than paying for your education so your earning power is greater, or your career/ job opportunities are more stable.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:58 am
That is an excellent list of tips. I am going to bookmark for future reference.
March 9th, 2009 at 7:06 am
I agree with those before me - an excellent list - its actually a “to do” list for the future.
Thanks!
March 9th, 2009 at 7:13 am
I love summaries, thanks J.D. After a few years of reading about finance and investing, the one that lets me sleep at night is “pay yourself first.” I take 20% out every paycheck and put it into savings - emergency or Roth IRA. Then let the miracle of compound interest take over. =)
March 9th, 2009 at 7:14 am
i think GRS needs a Young Edition since I’m 20 and in college and almost half of the stuff in the article don’t apply.
March 9th, 2009 at 7:18 am
Thanks for the mention! I guess some rule of thumbs are better than nothing. They are also useful for a subject you aren’t familiar with or don’t deal with often.
For example I had never heard about that rule about consumer appliances. Appliances are not something I think about often or know much about - so that’s a good rule for me to follow.
Mike
March 9th, 2009 at 7:23 am
#16 @ liz: 65K right out of school with a BA? What is your major, money manufacturing? I would adjust your income expectations. You are spot on, though, education in the long run is worth the investment (in the right field, of course).
In general this list is great. Rules of thumb, at least, get you pointed in the right direction.
March 9th, 2009 at 7:56 am
My dad the accountant always told me growing up: “Buy Low, Sell High,” “Don’t quit a job unless you have another one lined up,” and “If you win the lottery always take the cash now.”
March 9th, 2009 at 8:02 am
@Erin
@J.D.
Regarding Liz Weston’s advice about the cost of a car, she mentioned a time period of five years, which equals 60 months. Hence the number 60 in the formula.
March 9th, 2009 at 8:06 am
One thing that wasn’t mentioned related to retirement was an often increase in health care costs. Right now many elders on Medicare are shocked when they hit “the donut hole” under Medicare Part D and end up shelling out thousands of dollars on medications and other unanticipated health care expenses. Who knows what will happen with Obama rockin’ the house but just wanted to mention that chances are, the older you get, the greater the probability of a rise in your health care expenses and that should be taken into consideration.
March 9th, 2009 at 8:08 am
While you’re clarifying that times 2 divided by 60 is the same as 30, maybe mention that you’re looking for the “monthly” cost of ownership here. Assuming 5 years of ownership. That really isn’t clear the way it’s worded now.
Also at the end “perosnal”
(Sorry rushed comment, back to work… income is an important part of financial health.)
March 9th, 2009 at 8:16 am
When you guys refer to % of paycheque to save as a rule of thumb, do you generally calculate it on net or gross income? I do save/invest about 20% of my after-tax income, but that shrinks to 13/14% of my gross.
March 9th, 2009 at 8:35 am
Very insightful comments. In these times of troubles, people need to be more aware of the need to save and invest for the future.
To guiness416, 10% is of your gross, so as a percentage of the take home pay it’d be more. But the higher the better, especially if you just started working.
March 9th, 2009 at 8:39 am
Here’s an old rule of thumb related to the length of a job search:
Plan on one month per every $10,000 of income you are presently making. Make $120K? Plan on a year to find a new job.
But… with the recession, I’d multiply this times at least 1.25
March 9th, 2009 at 8:42 am
This was mainly about SAVING money… what’s missing are tips on MAKING money. My personal favorite tip along these lines is:
INVEST IN YOURSELF BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE!
The vast majority of money you acquire will come from your own job. Therefore, focus on some easy ways to increase your own value and productivity… after which you can command a higher salary. This means the following:
* get a good education on a subject that you enjoy, but also one that is likely to earn money. Going back to school at middle age can be tough, but it’s frequently worth it.
* read trade journals about your industry
* take courses every year or so (depending on the industry) to keep sharp
* read books on know how to run a business: management, strategy, motivation, marketing, etc.
It takes a very small investment in time and money to become significantly more useful to your employer… then you can either ask for a raise, or leave for a better job.
March 9th, 2009 at 8:52 am
@Studenomics, @liz: Don’t forget financial aid, either! Some schools guarantee financial aid, and others don’t. In my case, I spent less going to a prestigious private university that guaranteed the federally calculated financial aid than I would have going to a state school that didn’t guarantee anything.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:02 am
“i think GRS needs a Young Edition since I’m 20 and in college and almost half of the stuff in the article don’t apply.”
I’ve been working on a similar set of guidelines for my cousins who are all graduating. Here are a few:
Don’t buy a new car right out of school. Buy a cheap ($5k) reliable used car. Finance it if need be. Then start saving for your next car so you can pay cash with it.
Keep your expenses and debts low, so you can take that risky job that doesn’t pay well now, but might set you up for a great job later. You can’t do this if you need to make the payments on that new $30k, or a house.
Don’t buy a house until the mortgage payments are significantly less than the cost to rent a similar place. You should be paying more for the freedom to move, not more to be tied to a house.
Pay down credit card or any high interest debt first, before student loans. Then never carry a balance again. Then start saving. Let compound interest work for you, not against you.
Make your first few jobs more about experience than money. Get the experience you need to truly do what you love, then the money will follow.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:06 am
I always have a personal ledger to track all my expenses. This may take a beginner some time to get used to, but has helped me watch (in my own writing) where my money has been going. Most of the time its towards wise investments and savings, but looking back at past months, I can see where I was not wise in my spending and try to reduce these mistakes in order to remain on track towards my financial goals.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:07 am
“I thought “pay yourself first” meant to give yourself spending money. ”
And well it should. If your goal is to die rich, then “paying” your estate first makes sense. Otherwise, spend the money on yourself.
Even if your goal is to die rich, you are more likely to get there by spending money than by saving it. Rule of thumb: “You have to spend money to make money.”
Which raised the problem with all these “rules of thumb”. The devil is in the details. Most of us will get in a lot of trouble following some of these rules.
The best rule of thumb:
Consider every expenditure carefully.
The rest will follow from that.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:23 am
JD, nice list. I love the last one using 1% to treat yourself and stashing the rest. It beats using it all now when you are more likely to make a bad decision.
-Nate
March 9th, 2009 at 9:32 am
To Erin’s point: “I generally love Liz Weston’s advice, and think that the rule of thumb about the cost of a car (sticker price times 2 divided by 60) is interesting — but wouldn’t (sticker price divided by 30) be a simpler formula with the exact same answer?”
Yes the math works out perfectly well, but I believe Liz Weston’s point is that the true cost of owning a vehicle is twice the sticker price. Meaning, people should not assume that because they can afford the sticker price they can necessarily afford the car.
I believe that the point would be lost (to many) if you simply removed that step, and replaced it with a mathematically equivalent step (i.e. x*2/60=x/30).
Obviously, you can then divide the true costs by any number of months or years you like.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:42 am
One the point of never co-sign a loan. I am the first to tell anyone right now never do that. I trusted my best friend and its horrible right now. The friendship is gone and the payments, guess who has to make them? You guessed right me! It put me one step behind on my eliminating debt program. I will be making the last payment on 04-16-09 I cannot wait that will free me up so much money so I can continue with my emergency fund and my life. Am happy to add though apart from my student loan I dont carry any more credit cards. Paid them off back in 08. I have 3 months worth of EF, I live way below my means and I also contrubute 6% to my employer matched 401. So now that I wrote this down it doesnt look that bad.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:43 am
J.D.
Your rule of thumb “I believe your housing costs should be less than 28% of your gross income, and your total monthly debt payments should be less than 36%.” conflicts with the examples “family income of $120,000 can afford a $240,000 home”.
The numbers don’t add up. 28% of $120,000 is $366,000 mortgage with PMI, tax and insurance included.
PERHAPS you meant to say “housing costs should be less than 20% of your gross income”, YES 20% gross which would allow a $266,000 mortgage with PMI, tax and insurance included?
“28% Gross” rule has gotten lots of folks into mortgage trouble, why keep pushing a rule that is essentially a trap for most people? 20% would be a better rule.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:49 am
JD,
Great article. I was wish you until I read this:
“In general, save an emergency fund first; pay off high-interest debt second; and begin investing (at the same time you pay down remaining debt) last.”
Why would you want to save before paying off high interest debt? If you pay $1 toward a savings account earning 2%, then you are worse off than paying that $1 toward a credit card earning 20%.
I think you are saying that you need to plan for emergencies first. But the whole point of the emergency fund is so you dont have to resort to using credit cards in emergencies! If you’ve already done that, get rid of the credit card debt you KNOW you have before you start planning to avoid the credit card debt you might otherwise have to take on in an emergency.
March 9th, 2009 at 10:04 am
I don’t like the advice to keep a mortgage below twice your annual income for the same reason that you don’t like the retirment rules of thumb, JD. It focuses too much on income. Instead, I’d look at the debt-to-income ratio, as you mention, and the price of renting.
For example, our debt-to-income apart from the house was zero, so I felt comfortable taking on more mortgage debt than most. I also ran the numbers and found that a mortgage with three times our annual salary would be cheaper than renting (not renting a comparable place, but the actual rent that I was paying at the time).
We ended up with a house that cost about 2.8 times our annual salary that costs us less than renting, even including house insurance and taxes. That rate is also never going to go up, unlike rent so over time it should get even better.
March 9th, 2009 at 10:16 am
My own personal rule of thumb: I have been happiest with the financial decisions I made after extensively researching my options and thinking about my personal situation. Two examples:
1) Not buying a condo in 2005. My friends and relatives told me that real estate was only going to go up and I’d get priced out of the market — but I looked at my personal situation, and it didn’t make sense for me to buy. I’m pretty happy with that decision.
2) Trading in my used car for a brand new car. I kept that car a good year after my instincts started telling me it was time to get rid of it because of the Car Talk rule of thumb. When I hit a last-straw type repair, I finally added up my monthly repair costs — and for that year, it cost me nearly $200 a month *more* to keep repairing that old car than it now costs for me to drive my new car. (And yes, that includes payment, additional insurance, and additional excise costs!) I also feel safer driving, and I no longer have to spend my weekends at the repair shop.
March 9th, 2009 at 10:37 am
I like these suggestions. I live in Canada, so not all of them (like 401K) apply to me.
One thing I do disagree with is getting a rewards card with no annual fee. I regularly use my card and the rewards I get pay for the annual fee several times over in a year (I usually redeem for $50 restaurant gift certificates). Without the fee, I’d earn my rewards points a LOT slower. Sometimes it does make sense to pay an annual fee if you know the rewards will benefit you. Of course, if you get a rewards card that you know you won’t use, an annual fee is stupid.
March 9th, 2009 at 10:40 am
I really liked this post because as a regular reader I get a lot of benefit out of reading your blog, but most of your posts aren’t easy to just forward to a non-financially savvy friend, they would get tired of getting tons of e-mails. This is one I can hit forward on and think they might find useful. If they want more they can click through, if not they’ve thought about a lot of good things in a short amount of time.
March 9th, 2009 at 10:40 am
Is the 10% savings rule gross or net of my salary?
March 9th, 2009 at 10:52 am
If either one is more than you save now then either one is good. If not you probably won’t hate yourself in the future if you saved more today.
March 9th, 2009 at 10:57 am
One thing I notice you didn’t include was charitable donations. I don’t know your economical/religious/philosophical beliefs on that on, but I have always been rewarded for paying tithing to my church and being generous in my donations to charities. I think on paper, it may not make sense to pay 10% of your income/increase to charity/church but I think it makes a huge difference to what kind of person you become. Plus I started doing this when I was just a little kid so it’s helped me understand how to budget and put away money instead of living to the full extent of my income.
March 9th, 2009 at 11:02 am
So many tips, it gives me lots to offer my opinion on! I agree with J.D. That *absolutely* the best way to make your savings work is to pay yourself first. Regardless of whether you target 10% or 20% or some other number, if you pay yourself first you’re guaranteed to actually have *something* at the end of the day. If you don’t, you might end up with nothing, which is a lot less than 10%.
I also agree with this statement: “Need to cut back? Housing, cars, and taxes dominate most budgets. Make dramatic cuts to these budget busters first.” Far too many people find themselves financially stretched and decide they’re going to cut bak on Starbucks to save $2/day when they spend ten times that on an expensive car. However, at the same time, these are the most difficult things to cut back on. If your car is actually expensive, that implies that you’ve financed it, and you may owe more than it’s worth, which makes it quite difficult to sell. Cutting back on taxes is largely impossible without breaking the law, and cutting back on housing, if you own your home, is more difficult even than selling a car on which you owe more than it’s value.
However, when you get into a situation where you’re going to move or replace a car anyway, you should definitely take your past experience into account, and if your previous home or car was stretching you financially, maybe you should move to a smaller house, or buy a simpler car.
I also agree with Elizabeth in comment #6: “Know what you care about - and spend your money on that. If you have one hobby/passion/love don’t deprive yourself of this.” We don’t want to go to work every day simply to survive and know that we’ll also be able to survive in our retirement, except without going to work every day. We want to thrive, to experience life, to feel like we have meaning. We all do this is different ways, but we have to allow for it. Simply surviving day-to-day on the bare minimum required so that we can save more can make you feel dead inside. Make allowances so that you can afford you passions. Don’t go into debt fir them, but don’t cut them out of your life because they’re “unnecessary”, they’re the things that make life worth living.
There are also some things that I don’t really agree with in here. It certainly *does* make sense, financially, to buy a used car and keep it until it stops working, but if you’re like me, and commute 45 minutes each way to work every day, you may find it’s worth the money for a newer car with, for instance a working radio and air conditioner. These are indulgences that aren’t required, certainly, but you have to decide for yourself how much luxury is reasonable to buy in a car. Simply keeping the cheapest car that continues to drive may cause more frustration than it’s worth.
Also: “invest no more than 10% of your total savings in your employer’s stock”. This may be sound advice financially, but usually the reason that people are heavily invested in their own company’s stock is because the company makes it extremely affordable to do so. I can buy my company’s stock at 15% below market value (up to a certain amount per year). I also get awarded much of my bonuses in company stock that doesn’t vest for several years. For this reason, I have tens of thousands of dollars in company stock that I cannot sell for several years. It goes well over 10% of my portfolio, but I got most of it for free and can’t sell it yet, so what else am I expected to do with it?
And as far as what did you miss? There’s something that always seems to be overlooked when talking about the cost of homes and how they’re an appreciating asset. My view on it is like this: Your home is not an investment because it appreciates a few percent per year. It’s your home, it’s where you live. You don’t sell it unless you buy another one, so it’s value if it were to be sold is not important. It’s an investment because you should aim to pay it off before you retire, which means in retirement *you have no rent or mortgage payment to make*. This is the biggest single expense most of us have. You will be a lot more comfortable in your retirement not having to make this payment every month. Does your mortgage payment cost you $1500/month? If so, paying off your mortgage means an instant $1500/month increase in your savings until you retire, *and* $1500 more available every month after you retire. Imagine how much easier retirement will be like that.
March 9th, 2009 at 11:35 am
For me , after every five delayed gratification Want attacks I get a free ‘Splurge-no waiting-card’ but only for a fun long lasting subject.(books mainly) I can tell you we get along great together.
March 9th, 2009 at 12:23 pm
What a great list, and some equally insightful comments.
For the 20 year old college student, based on my own experiences; just reading this blog and adopting the right mentality is one of the best things you can do. And if that’s the only thing you do now, you’ll still be better off than most others who only “caught the religion” later on. With all this stuff, time is your best asset. I wish I’d done it in college. The reason is that you haven’t made the big spending decisions yet that will financially handicap you–mainly cars and houses.
I like and agree with all of these rules of thumb, and obviously as some people pointed out, there are certain exceptions such as the employer awarded, non-vested stock options, and others.
The housing/mortgage rules are pretty important, and I’ve had a couple thoughts. One thing to remember, especially for those living in higher cost areas, is the rule is based on your total MORTGAGE, but with a hefty down payment, that does not have to equal the cost of the house. For several years my wife and I rented FAR below our means and saved aggressively to make a 60% down payment on our house, and now we only have a mortgage equal to about 1.25 times annual income. I had a good income, but it wasn’t exceptional by any means, as I was in the military during that time.
A second point about mortgage is pay it off early if at all possible. Paying double on a 30 year brings it down to 10 years. I’ll promise you that that’s a comforting plan we’re executing now.
Also, and this is big, and I anger many people when I say this, but the “mortgage interest tax deduction” is, without a doubt, the most overrated and misunderstood personal finance concept in our country. It’s like going to the store and buying something you neither want nor need in order to “save money” by using a 25% off coupon. And then as soon as you leave the store, throwing the item in the trash on your way out, and then doing the same thing next month. All the while bragging about how much money you’re savign. And actually, it’s worse than that, because your real savings only occur on the portion of your deductions that are in excess of what you could get from the standard deduction, and that’s been going up pretty steadily.
I also have to say that I don’t care too much for all this talk about car financing. 30 times 60 and 2 or what have you. The only people who ought to be taking on debt to buy a car is the soon-to-be college graduate, if necessary. And that car better be used. After that, like someone else said; save up for when you’ll need another car. If you’re going to argue with me “But I don’t have the money” I’ll respond that a colleague from work just the other day picked up a four year old minivan (a Dodge) with about 75,000 miles for around $2,500. That’s as practical and functional a car as just about anyone could ever really need.
Finally, remember that all these are rules of thumb. There’s always room for improvement. And that’s the whole point. Don’t worry about if it’s “10% net or gross.” What difference does it make, really, what the correct answer is? (I know, I know, you’re just trying to understand what other people recommend, that’s fine) But the point is, what can you save? Don’t think “How much house can I afford?” How about “how much house do I really need?” Will more house make me happier after I’ve lived there six months, or would I rather have more financial security? Maybe you’re doing great with a 15 year mortgage, can you pay it off in ten?
I think these are the kinds of thoughts you start having when you move into the “final stage” that J.D. often alludes to. That’s when you transition from “what do I need to do to meet my goals” to “Wow, how good can this get?” It’s an addiction in it’s own right.
If you’ve read this far, wow, thanks for reading this whole, long rant.
March 9th, 2009 at 12:24 pm
I get very confused with the rules about retirement savings which refer to pre-retirement income (or expenses for that matter, sorry JD). My income has varied widely in the past few years. I’ve kept expenses low, but don’t yet own a home, so I know that expenses will change.
A totally unscientific generalization: say people with a BA in their 20’s earn on average 40K; people in their 30’s earning 75K; and 40’s 100+…
So if I’m looking at the 20X income rule of thumb in my 20’s my goal for retirement savings could be $800K. But if I were applying this rule in my 40’s it could be $2M.
Not only does this have the younger person starting with a lower goal in mind, that person will have to deal with 20 more years of inflation, so if someone is not careful, at 40 they may be in for quite a shock at the reduced buying power their original goal will afford them.
Am I missing something here or looking at this the wrong way?
Ultimately this leaves me (at 29) at a loss for how to determine my goal. Any other suggestions for calculating this “final number”?
March 9th, 2009 at 12:38 pm
I wondered why I was getting new twitter followers today… thanks for featuring my suggestion, JD.
Here’s some additional rules of thumb I use:
1) Realize that no one cares as much about your money as you do - including your broker, insurance agent, even your friends. Research, learn how to analyze.
2) Compare renting (and investing your savings) vs buying a home on a regular basis. There are online calculators that can help you evaluate all the angles (like dinkytown.com).
3) Put a price tag on your time so you can evaluate each potential purchase using the TIME required to work for it, rather than dollars. (Explained in detail on my blog.)
4) No matter how much you earn, you’ll never be wealthy if you spend it all. (I saved 20% of our gross income + windfalls to become financially free at 40.)
5) You suggested “save an emergency fund first; pay off high-interest debt second; and begin investing (at the same time you pay down remaining debt) last.”
Generally speaking, I prefer this order:
First, protect your financial future from catastrophe with high-deductible insurance policies (health, disability, term life, personal liability)
Second, pay off “toxic debt” first (highest interest rates; balances that are closest to credit limits).
Third, after paying off all debt balances with interest rates over ~6%, save at least 15% of every penny earned to build an emergency fund equal to 6-12 months of your living expenses.
Fourth, then start investing at least 10% of your gross income (use employer-matched retirement account first).
Fifth, pay off your remaining low-interest rate (<6%) debt balances.
Last, pay down the mortgage. (Actually, if I had a home with a mortgage and I was up to my eyeballs in debt, I’d sell my home to pay off my debt with the equity. Then, after my debt was gone, I had an emergency fund in place, AND I had saved for a 20% down payment, I’d consider buying a home again.)
Oh, I could go on and on here… Great roundup of ideas, JD.
March 9th, 2009 at 1:07 pm
@Bon,
They just don’t have calculators yet for people like you and me who are so far from retirement. So much will happen with markets and in your own personal situation between now and then that most of the “retirement rules of thumb” won’t really work. Would having a goal in mind help you with your savings? Right now I set aside my retirement money and invest it as I see fit, but I don’t really look at the total yet.
@JD,
I’m curious, what do you think of as “savings”? I set aside almost $1000/mo for irregular expenses (propane, clothing, gifts, car repair, etc). Would some or all of this be savings? Is it items w/o a set bill (eg. ‘Car Insurance’ is not savings, but ‘Car Repair’ is)? Or is it money that goes in without a plan of how it’s coming out again? I have my method and I’m not worried, but this is always a word that I hear and wonder about the user’s definition.
March 9th, 2009 at 1:20 pm
i cringed a little at the “never co-sign a loan” rule. my parents co-signed for my student loans ($21k over 4 years) because without them i would not have been able to get those loans at that rate (federal, 6.5% avg). BUT! parents, teach your kids about money, credit, interest, saving, etc! when i consolidated my loans, they came out of my parents’ names completely and i am making good progress on them (which is boosting my credit rating). one of my siblings is making them crazy over the loans they co-signed that she has not yet consolidated, and she doesn’t really understand what it’s all about or why it would be important to relieve them of that burden.
March 9th, 2009 at 1:22 pm
Just a thought…
“To approximate a new vehicle’s five-year cost of ownership (in monthly terms), double the price tag and divide by 60.”
You could skip some math and simply divide by 30. I’m guessing the 60 has to do with 12 months * 5 years = 60. The original idea was probably:
To approximate a new vehicle’s x-month cost of ownership, double the price tag and divide by x.
But I don’t think this would hold true since the first year often has a huge depreciation.
March 9th, 2009 at 1:24 pm
Great list! it has generated a lot of comment, which is good.
It is gratifying to see how many of these I ‘did the right thing’ even without trying.
As the title says, folks, these are ‘rules of thumb’, not laws of nature. You can adjust as necessary, if your circumstances dictate.
The goal is to make your life better, not to torture you. This isn’t Guantanamo Bay.
Maybe this one is too simplistic, but it’s the easiest to remember:
SPEND LESS THAN YOU EARN.
Cheers!
March 9th, 2009 at 1:29 pm
@Bon, my investments are through Fidelity (my employer’s 401k pick), and at age 23 their calculator tells me I need about $2m when I retire (yes, in 2049 dollars) and how to get there starting today. Of course their calculator does not factor in that my first two years of investments are halved by the recession
March 9th, 2009 at 1:40 pm
Thanks, J.D. for another great article. I have a comment/question about car replacement. I do buy low mileage good used cars. The “rule of thumb” years ago was to replace every 60,000 miles, due to reliability and maintenance issues (according to my dad!). I know certain quality brands outlast others, but in general, is this rule of thumb still true?
March 9th, 2009 at 1:47 pm
One to add to your list: Don’t convert unsecured debt to secured debt.
Case example: friends of ours refinanced their house several years ago and rolled their student loans, car loans, and assorted credit-card debt into the refinance. This consolidated their payments but added tens of thousands of dollars to their mortgage and put the house up as collateral for everything they’ve bought on credit in the past several years.
If they fall on hard times and miss a payment (which is now bigger than it might have been) they’ll risk losing the house. Without the consolidation, they could have missed a car loan payment or a student loan payment without putting their home at risk.
Also, with one big loan payment they won’t get the benefit of the debt snowball (the psychological boost of paying off smaller debts) because everything’s wrapped up in the one big payment.
All of this assumes, of course, that they haven’t racked up more credit card debt in the meantime.
Debt consolidation might make sense for some, but it seems nuts to make your mortgage bigger than it has to be to pay off your boat, clothes, or comic books.
March 9th, 2009 at 2:19 pm
Thanks for shedding light on the bogus rule that says that upon retirement, folks are going to need 80% of their preretirement income. It’s a myth that is perpetuated by an industry that makes it’s living by the management of folks assets. It’s like going to an insurance agent and asking if you should purchase more insurance. I’m a Registered Investment Advisor, and the pre-retiree’s that I see, aren’t living within their means today. This is evidenced by the Credit Card Debt, Home Equity Loans, and other forms of debt that so many have. My advice to most folks, is to live within their means, clean up their debts, and develop habits that are conducive to living a rich and meaningful life in the present. In the forming of these habits, these folks will discover an income need that is dramatically lower that than the one espoused by the so-called “experts”.
March 9th, 2009 at 2:29 pm
Off topic: JD, you have hit upon one of my pet peeves. “Rule of thumb” does not mean something different from “rule,” except that the phrase has a pernicious history.
“Rule of thumb” is actually a term going back to old English common law, back in the days when wife-beating was legal, but only if the wife-beater used a rod or staff no thicker than his thumb.
I see “rule of thumb” used all the time, when just a simple “rule” would do. A phrase with so vile a foundation should be avoided.
March 9th, 2009 at 2:32 pm
These are all helpful financial gages and benchmarks for some people. But like all rules of thumb they should be used with caution and by those who are considering all aspects of their financial life. They should also be used by people who really understand the basic assumptions of how the benchmarks are calculated and how they apply (or don’t apply) to their situation. Many times, people get caught up in the merits of one aspect of their financial lives, because of benchmark or rule of thumb, at the expense of others.
I somewhat agree with @FourPillars who said, “I hate rules of thumb — they are a poor substitute for proper analysis.” I think there can be merit with rules of thumb if used to compare the results of a budget or savings goal already prepared. But for the most part, I think rules of thumb are overused. Anytime you pick up a magazine these days you see them everywhere. It seems like publishers need to grab the attention of readers in the shortest manner possible. After all, rules of thumb are highlights that can be delivered in a snippet.
In the beginning of your article you said, “Careful analysis always yields the best results. (And there are times when you need the advice of a financial professional.) All the same, it’s often convenient to get a quick estimate of financial numbers. For those situations, it’s helpful to know guidelines like the ones I’ve listed below.” I agree with this. However, I think many people who otherwise shouldn’t, tend to overlook the disclaimers or general advice and just skip to the rules of thumb. They take rules of thumb out of context and ignore the affects of these on other aspects of their financial lives.
March 9th, 2009 at 2:32 pm
I wish there were a little more consistency in what people recommend for an emergency fund, information on the opportunity cost of having one, and some explanation of what constitutes an “expense” for purposes of calculating the fund. Here is what I mean:
This year, I was officially bumped into the highest tax bracket in Canada, which is 46% (here the highest rate kicks in at $123,000, which is much less than in the U.S.) That means for every dollar of interest I earn on an emergency fund, I pay 46 cents in taxes. Since an ING Direct account earns only 2.3% interest, the real return is about 1.3%, which is less than half the rate of inflation. The idea of having $55,000 sitting around like that and rapidly losing value is pretty scary. Accordingly, I have always pumped any extra cash into the mortgage. Mortgages here are not tax-deductible, so the REAL return on investment there is 5.15%, which is quite decent. That means the opportunity cost of a $55,000 emergency fund would be over $2,000 per year. That’s one hell of an expensive insurance policy!
This raises the other issue - since I have always been aggressively paying down the mortgage, the actual amount of money leaving the account has always been about $25,000 more than the “expenses” in the accounting term. Does that mean I should have an $80,000 emergency fund? Who can seriously afford to have that much cash lying around earning no meaningful rate of return except for government?
Am I missing something?
March 9th, 2009 at 2:34 pm
@ Chacha1, #60:
“rule” and “rule of thumb” do not mean the same thing.
Here’s a definition for rule of thumb: A rule of thumb is a principle with broad application that is not intended to be strictly accurate or reliable for every situation.
And for “rule”: a principle or regulation governing conduct, action, procedure, arrangement, etc.
Basically, “rules of thumb” are meant to be broken, but “rules” aren’t.
And your definition isn’t even true. From Wikipedia:
Origin of the phrase
The earliest citation comes from Sir William Hope’s The Compleat Fencing-Master, second edition, 1692, page 157: “What he doth, he doth by rule of thumb, and not by art.” The term is thought to originate with wood workers who used the length of their thumbs rather than rulers for measuring things, cementing its modern use as an inaccurate, but reliable and convenient standard.
It is often claimed that the term originally referred to a law that limited the maximum thickness of a stick with which it was permissible for a man to beat his wife, but this has been discredited. Although British common law before the reign of Charles II permitted a man to give his wife “moderate correction”, no ‘rule of thumb’ (whether called by this name or not) has ever been the law in England.
March 9th, 2009 at 2:38 pm
@ Millionaire Mommy beat me to it… no one will ever care as much about your money as you do. Although there are some smooth talkers that will try to convince you otherwise.
LindaB
March 9th, 2009 at 2:42 pm
@ The Beagle, #60 (I seem to be responding to lots of comments today.)
I think that an emergency fund becomes less useful the more financially secure you get. For example, if you have a year’s worth of expenses invested in the stock market such that you could sell all your stocks and cash out and have the money in three days, you don’t need an additional year’s emergency fund just sitting around earning no interest. You need three days emergency fund, because if there’s an actual *emergency* you can sell some of your stock to help you through it.
When you have a significant amount of investments sitting around that you could use in the case of a long term illness or unemployment, you don’t need an emergency fund to cover those expenses. Simply keeping enough cash on hand to cover likely daily emergencies (such as a car breaking down) is enough. If you keep, say, $2,500 available in your bank account at all times, you’re unlikely to ever need to sell investments to cover minor emergencies like replacing a water heater or getting the brakes or your car repaired.
That’s my take on it, J.D.s may be different.
March 9th, 2009 at 2:47 pm
chacha1 wrote: “Rule of thumb” is actually a term going back to old English common law, back in the days when wife-beating was legal, but only if the wife-beater used a rod or staff no thicker than his thumb.
This is a myth.
Also, a rule of thumb is very much different than a rule. A rule of thumb is an approximation. A rule is a firm “law”. For example, in American football, you need to gain ten yards to obtain a first down. But if you don’t have a regulation football field, a handy rule of thumb is that a first down is about the length of ten paces. As a rule of thumb, my car used to need gas every two weeks when I was driving back and forth from work. As a rule, however, it needed gas when the tank was empty.
March 9th, 2009 at 3:18 pm
“As a rule, however, it needed gas when the tank was empty.”
a VERY good lesson in making your car last
March 9th, 2009 at 3:33 pm
@chacha1 @J.D., don’t be afraid to use the phrase “rule of thumb”. The wife beating story was discredited long ago. The earliest citation comes from Sir William Hope’s The Compleat Fencing-Master, second edition, 1692, page 157: “What he doth, he doth by rule of thumb, and not by art.”[1][2] The term is thought to originate with wood workers who used the length of their thumbs rather than rulers for measuring things, cementing its modern use as an inaccurate, but reliable and convenient standard. Chacha1 don’t repeat everything you hear on movies; “The Boondock Saints” is not the best media to gain information.
March 9th, 2009 at 3:51 pm
Re: Emergency Funds
IMHO the emergency fund needs to be sensitive to (in descending order of importance): the person’s age (the older people have age discrimination to overcome), ease of replacing their current earning power, the level of job they seek to replace, the “hotness” of their skill, and the “hotness” of their industry. Some of my fellow turkeys, that have passed a “magic number” in age (e.g., 40, 45, 50) find that it’s a lot harder than they thought. For the “elderly” (e.g., 50, 55, 60, or more) there are ZERO opportunities out there. As a nation, we need an ERISA-like protection for older workers. No sense raising the “social security” retirement age, when there is no way for people to work to it. WalMart only needs so many “greeters”! And, the politicians and bureaucrats have managed to destroy 401ks, IRA, and pension plans. So it’s a mess. Bigger emergency funds are needed than most folks imagine.
March 9th, 2009 at 4:22 pm
@Ben, don’t be snotty; I’ll admit my mistake. Sorry to cause a digression, I’ll stick to commenting on the substance of articles from now on!
March 9th, 2009 at 6:44 pm
JD,
I understand why you don’t like the retirement estimation based on income, but estimates based on expenses aren’t that accurate either. For example, right now I am paying $2300 a month for my mortgage. But my mortgage will be paid off in 8 1/2 years. Clearly I will not need to factor that into my expenses. So my point or question is you suggest 100% of your expensess + 10% but at what point in your life? Expenses are constantly changing.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:51 pm
Good and inspiring rule of thumb, I think. But personally I have an opinion: rule of thumb is important indeed, including for our personal financial planning. But, too strict following our own rule of thumb will lead us to other desperate times.
I prefer to stick on principle, that all rule of thumb is made for better life, not vice versa life is dedicate for rule of thumb, because the most important thing is a life itself.
Is personal financial planning important? Yes, sure!
But, just implementing them in flexible way to make us happier, instead of burdens our arms and legs.
March 9th, 2009 at 7:55 pm
I have a question - total I’m saving about 33% of my gross income, and about half of each yearly bonus I get in addition. 17+% in 401k and 15+% “for a house” which I occasionally buy some index funds with (the market will go back up!).
But am I really only saving 17+%, since I plan on spending the rest? Clearly once I retire (I’m 26, not for a while
) I won’t be saving any more, just spending, but “Saving” for a house only adds to the savings rate right now, it will be a big subtraction once I buy.
Currently my car worth maybe 4k costs about 2k/yr in normal maintenance + repairs. Still cheaper than new!
March 9th, 2009 at 8:55 pm
I am paying off a car that was repossessed by Honda finance corportaion. I owe them rougly $5,312.53. I really can not afford to continue to make payments. I am making $200.00 payments every 2 weeks, and I am left with very little money for me to buy other things and pay other bill. On top of that, my job is cutting hours. I am a delivery driver for pizza hut. Should I continue paying off that repossessed car? I want to tell them that I just can not pay on it anymore, but they always threaten my by saying that we are going to take you to court for the entire payment in full. They offered me settlement of like $3000.00 but I can not pay a settlement amount either, even if I want to. Should I write them a letter of grievance and tell them over the phone to stop calling me and we will handle this in writing? They did say that if I make a few more payments or 4 more, then they might be able to just call it quits after that because they are understanding of the economy. I need some advice. Thanks.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:21 pm
Some excellent rules of thumb, J.D. Some random thoughts inspired by your rules:
-Hopefully, the inflation rate will stay at about 3.5%; the way some pundits talk, we’ll be lucky to stay in single digits in the next few decades.
-I’m not sure that a return to the 100-(your age)% in stocks would be such a good thing. For most young people, that leads to putting a rather high portion of their money into bonds and safe investments when they’re still young, cutting down on their potential gains. On the other end, the number of people living to 100 and beyond is only going to rise rapidly in the near future; without a significant portion of their money in stocks (or similar growth investments), their money will slowly decline in real value due to inflation (even ‘benign’ inflation).
A more appropriate (although less ‘rule of thumb’) plan might be to have 100% in stocks until you’re about 20 years away from retirement, than slowly increase your bond (or other safe investment) allocation until you have 60% stocks/40% bonds (the traditional balanced fund) at retirement. (So, 10% bonds at 15 years to your planned retirements, 20% with 10 years to go, etc.)
-I like the idea of planning the needed retirement amount in terms of expenses, rather than income (especially if a large portion of your income is going to investments and retirement saving, which you won’t have to worry about any more). Rather than 20X your gross income, it might be useful to think about 25X your annual expenses (enough to allow a 4% withdrawal rate and still have plenty to grow and build on itself).
March 9th, 2009 at 10:08 pm
@ Chris # 22
//#16 @ liz: 65K right out of school with a BA? What is your major, money manufacturing? I would adjust your income expectations. You are spot on, though, education in the long run is worth the investment (in the right field, of course).//
Yes, right out of school with a BA, but I should give some history. I have 15 years experience, and was told about 8 years ago that my next logical step was a BA. I was able to do almost 3 years full-time, (one year abroad) and have been employed full-time while working off my last few credits. My final credits are taking me to Germany for two months.
Right now my salary is $65K/ year. Before I started my BA I was making $36K/ year. So, yes, even though I will only have graduated in the fall of this year officially, I’m not what you would call a “youngin” and I don’t think I need to adjust my expectations - because I’m already meeting them! I would say, however, that if I *hadn’t* gone back to school, I would be at my original wage, maybe a wee bit more, and I wouldn’t have had the same life experiences.
March 10th, 2009 at 3:05 am
Here’s anothr rule of thumb for you - A dollar saved in your 20’s generates $1 in dividend income in your 60s.. I did a whole post on this a while ago.. Let me know if you are interested
March 10th, 2009 at 3:24 am
Here’s another one I didn’t see mentioned above, the rule of “72″. If you want to know how long it will take you to double your money, take the interest rate and divide it into 72. For example:
- 10% interest rate = 7.2 years
- 5% interest rate = 14.4 years
- 20% interest rate = 3.6 years
enjoy!
March 10th, 2009 at 7:28 am
Instead of multiplying by 2 and dividing by 60, just divide by 30.
March 10th, 2009 at 8:04 am
For the guy wanting some advice for young people, here’s the biggest life lesson I’ve learned at 24:
Find a job you love…don’t worry about the salary. I can tell you from personal experience that money will never make up for the stress of a job you hate.
March 10th, 2009 at 8:47 am
Great post! I found this unique and useful.
March 10th, 2009 at 11:28 am
How long does it take to double your money at 10% interest?
72/10 = 7.2 years.
At 5%
72/5 = 14.4 years
Basically divide 72 by the interest rate to get the number of years to double the amount
Nick
March 10th, 2009 at 12:06 pm
I agree with AmberWarren who mentioned giving. I am always disappointed with articles I read that never even mention giving to any kind to charities/organizations/ministries.
For me, my first priority is at least 10% to my church, then sometimes more to other ministries/organizations/cancer research/etc. No matter what.
Whether you are Jewish or Christian & believe “you reap what you sow”, Buddhist “karma”, or the more secular “what goes around comes around”, there is significant personal & economic benefit to giving of your resources.
I implore you all to please give your time or resources such as non-perishable food, gently-used clothing, or donations to worthwhile causes. Many of our neighbors are in great need right now.
Thank you
March 10th, 2009 at 4:56 pm
Some of the advice up there doesn’t work together. I’ve heard it’s smart to keep a mortgage at 3x salary, not twice it. I ran the numbers, to find out what % of my gross and net would be required to pay a mortgage either double or triple my salary. I kept the interest rate fixed at 6% (generous these days!):
A 6% mortgage on double my income is 14.38% of my gross, and is 23.97% of my net (after retirement savings).
A 6% mortgage on triple my income is 21.58% of my gross, and is 35.97% of my net (again, after retirement savings).
I realize that JD’s rule of thumb (housing costing no more than 28% of gross) is intended to also cover insurance & taxes, and maybe even upkeep, but it seems like I could get pretty close to triple my salary and still meet that guideline.
Naturally, a lower amount of debt is better!! But I live in the Bay Area and the places that are double my income are truly frightening. I am keeping my eyes out and will start scraping together cash after my trip next month, and will see how things look in the fall.
March 10th, 2009 at 7:46 pm
“When getting a new mortgage, the balance should be less than 2x your family annual income.” So, if your family makes $120,000 per year, your mortgage should be $240,000 or less.
This is a ridiculous rule of thumb if you live in the DC metro area. The median home price is about 300K.
March 11th, 2009 at 6:17 pm
Thanks for mentioning my mortgage rule of thumb J.D!
March 11th, 2009 at 10:35 pm
Oooh, such a good list!
I try to follow the rule of thumb on paying yourself first, never touch retirement, and never cosign explicitly.
I don’t own a home yet, so the mortgage ones aren’t really in my circle of concern at the moment. But, most of the other ones I generally stick to, though sometimes I slip up.
I think the only thing you’re missing here are the general rules of thumb on credit:
- Pay your bills on time
- Keep your debt ratios to about 40% of your limits
- Don’t open a bunch of new accounts
And so on.
March 12th, 2009 at 3:22 am
I like the suggestion to not build a raise into your budgeting. Using it to increase mortgage payments or pay off loans quicker seems more sensible - you’ll feel much more benefit.
I also agree that your own retirement should come before your kid’s college, or grandchild’s college etc. So often adults nearing or in retirement are denying themselves to fund kids and grandkids. You’ve worked for it, you deserve it.
My sister and husband stood as guarantors for their daughter and her boyfriend when they took a 12 month lease on an apartment. The relationship failed, he moved out and decided not to honour his rent commitment, and it fell back on them. They’ll think twice before doing that again.
March 12th, 2009 at 9:38 am
Factoring inflation into the equation, stocks historically have a 2-3% return per annum, not 10%.
March 12th, 2009 at 9:41 am
Also, real world unemployment is ~19%, not 8.1%. Plan accordingly.
March 12th, 2009 at 9:44 am
Here’s one:
Don’t trust a financial tip that comes in a Twitter-sized package. (Soundbytes are dubious for a reason.)
March 18th, 2009 at 8:57 am
Above all else Cash flow is king.
Do not tie your money up into anything unless you have good cash flow.
March 20th, 2009 at 3:02 am
Here’s another one a friend of mine keeps running into:
YOU are responsible for your finance. Do not keep blaming past bad luck for your debt. Even if it was not your mistake, you have to fix it yourself.
March 29th, 2009 at 5:16 pm
The 20-year-old brought up a good point: we have different situations depending on age. It also depends on one’s life situation beyond age. I like to read how-to-save articles, but many don’t apply to me because I don’t have kids or pets. Thrifty ideas are not one-size-fits-all.
Here are my ideas….
Never take out an adjustable-rate mortgage. If rates rise, you are protected. If they fall, you can refinance.
If you are young and single, and aren’t living with your folks, get a roommate or two to save on living expenses.
If you are single and childless, and have no one else (e.g. elderly parents, disabled sibling) who are dependent on you, don’t buy life insurance; you don’t need it. If your job has flexible benefits, try to go without life insurance, or take the minimum LI that you can if they insist on your taking it.
If you live in a major city with great mass transit, and you have a choice between one job in the city and another in the suburbs, assuming all other things are roughly equal, take the city job and dump your car. You’ll save a fortune.
Look at every category of your spending and try to cut costs on each one. You may not be able (or willing) to cut on each one (say, housing), but it’s worth a try.
Someone mentioned the good idea about not putting much of your 401K $ into your company’s stock. Many people remember the company Color Tile, which had tile retail stores across the company. Unfortuantly, company stock was the ONLY 401K investment option the employees had, so when the company went belly up, so did everyone’s 401K. What advice should people in that situation take? I don’t know if other companies have that limitation in their 401Ks.
March 29th, 2009 at 6:19 pm
@Thrifty Gal Re: Color Tile
That’s an example of when a 401k is a terrible investment. (Also, when the fees are absurd GT 1.5 %. Or also, when your choices are restricted to high load funds like Fidelity.) It’s a fool’s bargain to focus on the tax advantage. In your example, the Color Tile 401k was a way to throw money away. Never mind the match, they lost their contribution.